StReeTz

Hey Zilvia, thought I'd share my build with everyone.

I picked up this 1993 240SX hatchback in September for a very fair price. My plan is to turn this 240SX into a competition drift car. It is a pretty clean shell with original paint. The underside has no rust. I also own an automobile detailing company so I decided to work some magic on the very neglected exterior. After a couple compound jobs the paint really started to shine.









When I got it the interior was partially gutted but shortly after purchasing the car I stripped it further ; removing the rear seat belt assemblies, rear speaker decks, rear plastic quarter panels, and various other items that would no longer be needed.
I began preparing the interior for the roll cage. I started by stripping the sound deadening from interior. I have seen many people use dry ice and a hammer to beat the material out of the car. I decided to use a heat gun and a metal scraper to avoid any dings and dents to make the overall finished appearance much cleaner. Yes, it takes alittle longer and doesn’t smell the greatest but it’s free if you have the tools. As for the residue left on the body I used a wire wheel on a grinder and it works wonders. Cleans the surface very effectively and kills two birds with one stone as I will have to prep the surfaces for welding anyway. The past couple of days have been very cold with temperatures in the teens so I haven’t had much time to work on the car. Today was in the 40’s so I decided to get out there and make some more progress. I decided to remove the center console and dashboard to gain access to more of the sound deadening as well as the heater core because I am not running heat or air conditioning. Nissan must have had plenty of small children working for them when they squeezed that heater core in there. I had to take it completely apart before even thinking about sliding it out. That thing was a real pain to get out but I managed. I also machined up some temporary hose plugs for the coolant to the heater core.













With all that junk removed from behind the dash I test fitted my hydraulic e-brake. Looks like the handle is alittle too long so I’ll have to trim it down a bit. Here are some pictures from the hydraulic e-brake fabrication.













Today I got some more work done. I decided to remove my rear bumper because the tow hook was denting the top of my exhaust. Started with the (4) 14mm bolts in the cabin and the (3) 10mm bolts on either side. Then I removed the strange vent on the passenger side. Went to pull the bumper off and the right side slid right out and the left side was not budging. Went back under the car to discover the very rusty, very seized couple of bolts holding the exhaust hanger bracket to the bumper support. The two on the bottom were so bad we air chiseled them out. The other couple on the sides I got out with an air ratchet. The bumper then slid right out with the big heavy bumper support. I plan on using the four in cabin bolt holes as mounting points for a custom chromoly crash bar.





Here I am making templates for aluminum dash inserts. Then plasma cut them out of a sheet of aluminum.





Here are some pictures of the fabrication of the rear crash bar.













Sexy Paint




Then I began to stitch weld the seams inside of the car for increased rigidity.



















More to come!

240drifter1

Damn dude, you look like you know what the hell your doing!

Schassis707

Yea you do.. And lol I want your door panels soo clean.

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DxZoo

This is gonna be bangin, subbed

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WacingWandy's240

Nice job. Great looking welds!

Kemps

damn nice job man!

s14freak93901

awesome work. thats one damn clean fastback.

FaLKoN240

That fender pull whoever did before was like :|

But all of your work more than makes up for it. Even the raw metal on the inside looks good.

I wish I had fab skills like that.

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dat411kid

Austin bringing the HEAT!!!

In for a dope season.

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StReeTz

Thanks everyone!
Yeah I bought the car with the fenders rolled like that. Looks pretty wonky with stockers...plan to fix that with some wide nice offset wheels

va240dude

Nice build man, looking forward to seeing more!

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180SXオタクだ!

2402NV

Looks great. Nice car to start with.

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ixfxi

have you checked your undercoating after doing all that stitch welding? ;-)

HPKMotorsports3

nice work so far... glad to see another nyer building a sweet one

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Rezist89

nice looking build

Om1kron

Whats the point of stitch welding a drift car?

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Wayne

Pstl_pete

Ive got nasty carpet. What do you recommend to clean it with? Since youre in the business.

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StReeTz

Haha yes it's not bad at all couple small spots to touch up.

Reduced body roll, increased rigidity?

Surprisingly spot shot works very well. DP also makes a product DP Carpet and Upholstery cleaner that works very well. If you want to get them perfect though you need a hot water extractor.

LOVERboy

lol wow ..... man where is the noob button....

Om1kron

Why do you need to press it for yourself? You could easily do it to the engine bay itself and throw an upper strut bar and rear strut bar and trunk brace if you felt like it.

But seriously it's not like it's going to make the most noticeable difference in the world when flipping the car side to side. I just don't see the point of doing it to a car that is used strictly for drifting unless he's trying to compete on some national level and never crashes.

Any pro drift cars completely stitch welded?

Reason why I ask is Flybert rotisseried his s13 chassis stitch welded the whole thing, let his brother drive it around the track went into a ditch bam. Head on impact with frame rail.

chassis ruined.

countless hours of stitch welding wasted.

Try thinking why I am asking the question before saying stupid shit like "oh noob button" when I'm pretty sure your racing experience has been gained from freeway onramps dipshit.'


ANYWAY : op I'm not trying to shit in your thread, if you're just doing it because you have nothing better to do and are just doing it to do it then by all means, full speed ahead.

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Wayne

thenooblet

Bruh, check om1kron's post count, he's leg1t

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blueshark123

hey where in ny are u located? i actually wanted to get some rust problems fixed but i have no welder maybe u can help, pm me.

Backintoans13

Awesome work....subscribed

StReeTz

Update; been working on machining up a set of aluminum subframe bushings. This should fix the notorious clunk and improve handling. Each set is eight pieces 4 tops and 4 bottoms. I made two sets so if anyone is interested in the other set let me know. Enjoy.



















And some GIF fun after they are all finished

sviellvoicae

pm'd. Nice build!

slow40sx

i have high hopes for this car

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StReeTz

Update time!

Decided to take my coilovers out because they have been neglected for along time based on the amount of grime on them. Forgot to take pictures of the front coilovers before I cleaned them up but they were in worse shape than the rears. Rubber spring seats were busted, threads were very filthy and the springs were rusty. I called D2 to find out the spring rates and to my surprise they were pretty decent at 8.7kg in the front and 7.2kg in the rear. Here are some pictures.









Freshly sandblasted springs yum


Decided to machine up some new spring seats out of a composite plastic.








Freshly painted, cleaned, and assembled




Got a nice surprise in the mail. 1.5'' tubing die for my cage.


Decided to install some suspension goodies while I took the rear coilovers out.








I see alot of questions regarding the proper way to install rear upper control arms and other suspension parts so I decided to show the wrong and right ways to install them.

Notice the clearance issue near the frame.








Don't forget the bushings.




All finished up.




More to come!

Banana_Cute

good shit man....

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conrad_s13.5

hellz yeah!
shit should be nice!

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cONtRol FReAkS

airhead

nice arms
and good work on restoring those coils, they look good as new

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