3 Clutch Pedel Problems - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

1 88 U · 01-18-2007, 10:01 PM

First problem is the clutch pedel will not return. If I press the pedel all the way down it won't return unless I manually lift the pedel halfway then the spring takes over. I bleed the system but no change.

Second problem is before the pedel completely died on me the clutch wouldn't fully engage so I couldn't get into gear. Miraculously I was able to time it right to force it into 3rd and make it back to the garage. After I bled the system I noticed the S.C. was only pushing the pivot about 1/3 inch.

Third problem is before the above problems occured I was encountering a click, pop when I would depress the clutch all the way and the car occationally wouldn't crank on the first press. With these latest problems with my clutch I finally decided to investigate to find the pedel was hitting stopper on the corner then sliding off rather than hitting it in the center. I roted the stopper around to a fresh side that hasn't been warn from the pedel sliding off the side and now the pedel won't reach enough to press the crank switch wtf. I know I can easily adjust the crank switch closer to the pedel but how in the hell could this of happened in the first place? It doesn't appear that anything is bent, shifted or loose to my knowledge.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks ahead of time.

***FaLKoN240*** · 01-18-2007, 11:51 PM

Did you check for slave cylinder leaks or the slave cylinder at all? That thing caused alot of problems for me, I just got a rebuild kit, and it feels fine now.

I was having marginal clutch return issues.

Sileighty_85 · 01-19-2007, 02:19 AM

Yeah rebuild the Clutch M.S. and the Slave and if the clutch isnt disengageing completely under the dash where the clutch pedal connects to the Clutch MS there should be a threaded rod that you can adjust your "throw" for the Slave Turn it all the way out till your clutch disengages completely but becarful not too much so it doesnt run out of threads and falls off.

Dream240 · 01-19-2007, 05:54 AM

Don't rebuild the MC and Slave. Just get new ones for less than 50 bucks.
Also when you adjust the MC pushrod as previously mentioned......DO NOT adjust it ALL the way out. you should have 1/4" to 1/2" of pedal freeplay before clutch disengagement.

As far as your bleeding techniques, have you removed the dampener setup yet? Search for clutch dampener removal here on tech talk to get details. Makes the bleeding procedure 5 min. as opposd to 1 hour.

g6civcx · 01-19-2007, 06:39 AM

Go to Taka Motorsports and get a braided clutch line. It will go straight from the master to the slave cylinder, and replaces the hardline, flexline, clutch damper and loop.

I highly recommnd it.

1 88 U · 01-19-2007, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240FaLKoN

Did you check for slave cylinder leaks or the slave cylinder at all? That thing caused alot of problems for me, I just got a rebuild kit, and it feels fine now.

I was having marginal clutch return issues.

No leaks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dream240

Don't rebuild the MC and Slave. Just get new ones for less than 50 bucks.
Also when you adjust the MC pushrod as previously mentioned......DO NOT adjust it ALL the way out. you should have 1/4" to 1/2" of pedal freeplay before clutch disengagement.

As far as your bleeding techniques, have you removed the dampener setup yet? Search for clutch dampener removal here on tech talk to get details. Makes the bleeding procedure 5 min. as opposd to 1 hour.

Yeah I'm just gonna replace them. I attempted to remove the dampener a while back but stripped a nut and gave up, but when I replace the system I will definately do so.

Quote:

Originally Posted by g6civcx

Go to Taka Motorsports and get a braided clutch line. It will go straight from the master to the slave cylinder, and replaces the hardline, flexline, clutch damper and loop.

I highly recommnd it.

What sucks is I bought the regular line for my project car about 6 months ago and if I had known they where gonna make the full MC to SC line I would have waited. I wonder if its a type o but on the page the price is listed $65 for s13/14 but everyother car is listed $35?

Ok so replacing the MC & SC, removing the dampener box, bleeding the system, then re-adjusting the pedel stroke should solve the dead pedel problem? Does anyone have an explaination for problem 3? I really can't figure out how the pedel all of the sudden wouldn't reach the ignition switch and why the pedel is sliding off the corner of the stopper.

cdlong · 01-19-2007, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1 88 U

Does anyone have an explaination for problem 3? I really can't figure out how the pedel all of the sudden wouldn't reach the ignition switch and why the pedel is sliding off the corner of the stopper.

is the rubber stopper symetrical? maybe it's thicker on the new side or something. it doesn't really matter, just adjust it and move on. sometimes things just get out of wack.

Dream240 · 01-19-2007, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g6civcx

Go to Taka Motorsports and get a braided clutch line. It will go straight from the master to the slave cylinder, and replaces the hardline, flexline, clutch damper and loop.

I highly recommnd it.

Did it, have it , love it.

1 88 U, can you post pics of the clutch pedal and it's stops? Both the forward and backward stops? Maybe you have a loose mounting bolt somewhere on the clutch assembly. Also have you ever replaced the white plastic u piece that goes in between the pedal assembly and the clutch pedal return spring? If not, maybe it's borken off and a piece is jammed up in there causing it to bind. Plus that would explain your creaking and popping noises. Those little plastic pieces are 4 bucks from the dealer and worth every penny.

1 88 U · 01-19-2007, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dream240

Did it, have it , love it.

1 88 U, can you post pics of the clutch pedal and it's stops? Both the forward and backward stops? Maybe you have a loose mounting bolt somewhere on the clutch assembly. Also have you ever replaced the white plastic u piece that goes in between the pedal assembly and the clutch pedal return spring? If not, maybe it's borken off and a piece is jammed up in there causing it to bind. Plus that would explain your creaking and popping noises. Those little plastic pieces are 4 bucks from the dealer and worth every penny.

I forgot to mention that I found the U piece floating in the return spring. I removed it and meant to post pictures to find out what it was so thanks.

1 88 U · 01-19-2007, 11:01 AM

Any bad words for AutoZone's Brakeware MC and SC?

Dream240 · 01-19-2007, 11:10 AM

I think I went with this setup.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/91-98...QQcmdZViewItem

Really they're all pretty much OEM replacements. Shoudln't have a problem as long as you keep the receipt for defects.

GL

hsoj_v · 05-16-2007, 02:24 AM

I've been having this problem too...
I changed the MC & SC also I've bled the Clutch Lines.
I took out the whole pedal to check the plastic pieces and they all seem to be in place. Still the pedal just slams to the floor when I step on it.
There is no resistance at all in the pedal.

johngriff · 05-16-2007, 02:35 AM

Make sure.

1 Bench bleed the master cylinder. (search google)

2 Over Adjust the pedal on initial setup

3 Bleed the line

Notes: Any -3 SS Line will work, you just need the -3/m10x1.25(am i wrong on the adapter??). The price on the taka line is just right.

AutoZone Master works great. I would go with the Nismo Slave though. Creature of personal preference.

***FaLKoN240*** · 05-16-2007, 09:00 AM

SPL sells the SS clutch line for $20, or something.

Dream240 · 05-16-2007, 09:51 AM

That's for the small rubber replacement section. The entire MC to SC line is around 75 IIRC. But worth it, and cleaner.

smurfgcr · 05-16-2007, 10:24 AM

your gonna want to go to nissan and buy that little plastic "u" and possibly a new clutch assist spring. i had major dead pedal at one point in time and replacing those along with removing the damnper fixed my problem. just to let you know though, you are going to have a major battle trying to pop the spring back into place.

Dream240 · 05-16-2007, 11:07 AM

It's really not that hard if you pull the clutch pedal assembly out of the car. Takes a little elbow grease but shouldn't be too bad. Also remember to regrease the spring and pedal stops so that you eliminate any areas of possible rust, squeak, wear etc.

GL

hsoj_v · 05-16-2007, 02:50 PM

So is the problem really that I need a SS line?

hsoj_v · 05-16-2007, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dream240

It's really not that hard if you pull the clutch pedal assembly out of the car. Takes a little elbow grease but shouldn't be too bad. Also remember to regrease the spring and pedal stops so that you eliminate any areas of possible rust, squeak, wear etc.

GL

Yeah, I took out the whole clutch pedal assem. out and everything looked fine to me. I regreased the pivot points where the springs ends meet the plasic "o's" and where the spring "u" meets the hook for the pedal.

When the pedal is removed is the pedal supposed to snap the the rear of the assembly? when I'm holding it and play around with it the spring feels like it's pulling the pedal to the back of the assembly. That's how it feels like when it's in the car.

*Update *

Ok, so I removed the Clutch Dampener thingy and redirected the line to go straight to the SC. I Bled the clutch again and still the pedal still goes soft. I took the SC apart and it seems like it's working fine (The Pin pushes out).

I don't know what's wrong here...

Also I came across something... when I took off the SC I tried to push the clutch fork just too see if it wasn't jammed or what not. It seems really hard to push. Is it really supposed to be that hard?

Dream240 · 05-17-2007, 08:47 AM

Yes it is. If you can push your throw out bearing pivot fork in with your hand then your pressure plate is crap. HYDRAULIC POWER MAN!!! RRRAAARRRGGGHHH!!!!

As far as the clutch pedal not returning, does the car shift when the clutch pedal is pushed in? Whether or not the pedal is returning?

Can you have someone push the and return the pedal by hand and you watch the slave? watch to see if it is in fact pushing the fork forward. And if so, how far? Is the fork loose on it's pivot? Also is your bleeding and you let the fluid go down to the bottom of the reservior then you're letting air back in the system and going nowhere. What kind of bleeder do you have? A clear air hose really is the only way to go. Let's you see how much air is traveling in the lines.

jrmiller84 · 05-17-2007, 08:55 AM

If it's not returning, you have air in your lines somewhere still, as everyones mentioned. Either there's just air in the lines, a line is busted, or somethings wrong with the sc/mc. After doing my SR swap and replacing my slave cylinder, my pedal wouldn't return either.

Even though the pedal felt right going down and the slave cylinder would engage, it wouldn't return.

Just keep bleeding it and it will return assuming nothing else is wrong.

AdamP · 05-17-2007, 09:23 AM

I have a question about the pedal freeplay. What consititutes pedal "freeplay" when adjusting the clutch? Recently I've replaced the pivot ball in the transmission and got my clutch bracket rewelded. Every day or so I adjust the clutch pedal further in (it's sitting about flush in height as the brake pedal).

The reason I ask is that there is a certain point where the shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 is slightly chunky. If I adjust the screw in a little bit, it eliminates this. I don't think the TO bearing is ridden from what I can tell. As for pedal free play I don't really thing I had any floppy feeling at all since there is a return spring on the pedal.

hsoj_v · 05-17-2007, 10:50 AM

No I can't shift into gears when the pedal is all the way on the floor. I'm not using a vaccum bleeder either just flowing fluid though the bleeder nozzles waiting for a clear line until no more air bubbles. Probably I let air in at the time of bleeding... just didn't notice.
Thanks guys... I'll try and bleed the clutch system again.

Dream240 · 05-17-2007, 10:56 AM

so you're gravity bleeding it? That's you're problem. I only ever had that work on certain brake systems. You need to have someone manually operate the pedal while you work the bleeder screw. Just use the standard two-man bleeder procedure and you should be set.

hsoj_v · 05-17-2007, 12:28 PM

Oh man... i feel stupid. You're right Dream. It was a bleeding issue. Haha Thanks Man! Now my car can finally move after 2 years of it sitting there.

Dream240 · 05-17-2007, 01:25 PM

Glad you got it figured out. Damn 2 years? I don't know if I could go 2 months not driving my baby.

Have fun and drive safe!

hsoj_v · 05-17-2007, 02:03 PM

OK... well one more small problem. There is pressure in the pedal now but it only comes back halfway. I can start the car but I cannot engage the clutch into gear. I checked to see if the slave cylinder is pushing the rod and it is. Could it be that there is still air in there?

Dream240 · 05-17-2007, 02:11 PM

There could still be air in there, sometimes you have to bleed the system out a few times. What you do is bleed it, then start it up, push the clutch a few times to check feel. Then top off fluid and repeat the process. Each time the peal feel should get stronger. If it's returning at all then your system is good. You just have to bleed it out a few times.

Also make sure the fluid stays full while bleeding. And check for leaks in the system after each bleed process.

If this still doesn't work and you've got the SC pushing out all the way on the fork, you got a bad clutch/throw out bearing, that's not allowing the clutch to release. Rarely you will have a broken pivot ball or fork that's not allowing the clutch to work properly. Either way I'd suggest a full clutch system inspection if the bleeding doesn't solve your problems.

GL

hsoj_v · 05-18-2007, 12:53 PM

Yey! Got the car moving, Thanks dream. Small problem is that the clutch does go in now it gets into gear but a bit driving around the clutch seems like it starts to get weaker and weaker. so I got to pump it while i'm driving.

Dream240 · 05-18-2007, 01:24 PM

After you got done dirving it around was the fluid lower than before? If you're having to pump the pedal then you got a clutch system leak prolly in your M/C. You should have fluid leaking out somewhere.

Is the M/C new? I forget if you said so already.

01-18-2007, 10:01 PM	#1
1 88 U Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Ga Posts: 536 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	3 Clutch Pedel Problems First problem is the clutch pedel will not return. If I press the pedel all the way down it won't return unless I manually lift the pedel halfway then the spring takes over. I bleed the system but no change. Second problem is before the pedel completely died on me the clutch wouldn't fully engage so I couldn't get into gear. Miraculously I was able to time it right to force it into 3rd and make it back to the garage. After I bled the system I noticed the S.C. was only pushing the pivot about 1/3 inch. Third problem is before the above problems occured I was encountering a click, pop when I would depress the clutch all the way and the car occationally wouldn't crank on the first press. With these latest problems with my clutch I finally decided to investigate to find the pedel was hitting stopper on the corner then sliding off rather than hitting it in the center. I roted the stopper around to a fresh side that hasn't been warn from the pedel sliding off the side and now the pedel won't reach enough to press the crank switch wtf. I know I can easily adjust the crank switch closer to the pedel but how in the hell could this of happened in the first place? It doesn't appear that anything is bent, shifted or loose to my knowledge. Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks ahead of time.

01-18-2007, 11:51 PM	#2
*FaLKoN240* Super Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 16,760 Trader Rating: (73) Feedback Score: 73 reviews	Did you check for slave cylinder leaks or the slave cylinder at all? That thing caused alot of problems for me, I just got a rebuild kit, and it feels fine now. I was having marginal clutch return issues. __________________ Best way to do business with me? Make your best offer FIRST.

01-19-2007, 02:19 AM	#3
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Yeah rebuild the Clutch M.S. and the Slave and if the clutch isnt disengageing completely under the dash where the clutch pedal connects to the Clutch MS there should be a threaded rod that you can adjust your "throw" for the Slave Turn it all the way out till your clutch disengages completely but becarful not too much so it doesnt run out of threads and falls off. __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

01-19-2007, 05:54 AM	#4
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 42 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Don't rebuild the MC and Slave. Just get new ones for less than 50 bucks. Also when you adjust the MC pushrod as previously mentioned......DO NOT adjust it ALL the way out. you should have 1/4" to 1/2" of pedal freeplay before clutch disengagement. As far as your bleeding techniques, have you removed the dampener setup yet? Search for clutch dampener removal here on tech talk to get details. Makes the bleeding procedure 5 min. as opposd to 1 hour. __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

01-19-2007, 11:10 AM	#11
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 42 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	I think I went with this setup. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/91-98...QQcmdZViewItem Really they're all pretty much OEM replacements. Shoudln't have a problem as long as you keep the receipt for defects. GL __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

01-19-2007, 06:39 AM	#5
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Go to Taka Motorsports and get a braided clutch line. It will go straight from the master to the slave cylinder, and replaces the hardline, flexline, clutch damper and loop. I highly recommnd it.

01-19-2007, 11:01 AM	#10
1 88 U Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Ga Posts: 536 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Any bad words for AutoZone's Brakeware MC and SC?

05-16-2007, 02:24 AM	#12
hsoj_v Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2006 Location: San Jose, CA Age: 35 Posts: 84 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I've been having this problem too... I changed the MC & SC also I've bled the Clutch Lines. I took out the whole pedal to check the plastic pieces and they all seem to be in place. Still the pedal just slams to the floor when I step on it. There is no resistance at all in the pedal. __________________ Last edited by hsoj_v; 05-16-2007 at 02:45 AM..

05-16-2007, 02:35 AM	#13
johngriff Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 4,103 Trader Rating: (4) Rides Gallery: johngriff Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Make sure. 1 Bench bleed the master cylinder. (search google) 2 Over Adjust the pedal on initial setup 3 Bleed the line Notes: Any -3 SS Line will work, you just need the -3/m10x1.25(am i wrong on the adapter??). The price on the taka line is just right. AutoZone Master works great. I would go with the Nismo Slave though. Creature of personal preference. __________________ [email protected]

05-16-2007, 09:00 AM	#14
*FaLKoN240* Super Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 16,760 Trader Rating: (73) Feedback Score: 73 reviews	SPL sells the SS clutch line for $20, or something. __________________ Best way to do business with me? Make your best offer FIRST.

05-16-2007, 09:51 AM	#15
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 42 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	That's for the small rubber replacement section. The entire MC to SC line is around 75 IIRC. But worth it, and cleaner. __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

05-16-2007, 10:24 AM	#16
smurfgcr Zilvia Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: santa rosa, ca Posts: 152 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	your gonna want to go to nissan and buy that little plastic "u" and possibly a new clutch assist spring. i had major dead pedal at one point in time and replacing those along with removing the damnper fixed my problem. just to let you know though, you are going to have a major battle trying to pop the spring back into place.

05-16-2007, 11:07 AM	#17
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 42 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	It's really not that hard if you pull the clutch pedal assembly out of the car. Takes a little elbow grease but shouldn't be too bad. Also remember to regrease the spring and pedal stops so that you eliminate any areas of possible rust, squeak, wear etc. GL __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

05-16-2007, 02:50 PM	#18
hsoj_v Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2006 Location: San Jose, CA Age: 35 Posts: 84 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	So is the problem really that I need a SS line? __________________

05-17-2007, 08:47 AM	#20
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 42 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Yes it is. If you can push your throw out bearing pivot fork in with your hand then your pressure plate is crap. HYDRAULIC POWER MAN!!! RRRAAARRRGGGHHH!!!! As far as the clutch pedal not returning, does the car shift when the clutch pedal is pushed in? Whether or not the pedal is returning? Can you have someone push the and return the pedal by hand and you watch the slave? watch to see if it is in fact pushing the fork forward. And if so, how far? Is the fork loose on it's pivot? Also is your bleeding and you let the fluid go down to the bottom of the reservior then you're letting air back in the system and going nowhere. What kind of bleeder do you have? A clear air hose really is the only way to go. Let's you see how much air is traveling in the lines. __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

05-17-2007, 08:55 AM	#21
jrmiller84 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Gainesville, FL Age: 36 Posts: 1,021 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: jrmiller84 Feedback Score: 2 reviews	If it's not returning, you have air in your lines somewhere still, as everyones mentioned. Either there's just air in the lines, a line is busted, or somethings wrong with the sc/mc. After doing my SR swap and replacing my slave cylinder, my pedal wouldn't return either. Even though the pedal felt right going down and the slave cylinder would engage, it wouldn't return. Just keep bleeding it and it will return assuming nothing else is wrong. __________________ BitDestroyer.com

05-17-2007, 09:23 AM	#22
AdamP Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Edmonton, AB Age: 35 Posts: 50 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I have a question about the pedal freeplay. What consititutes pedal "freeplay" when adjusting the clutch? Recently I've replaced the pivot ball in the transmission and got my clutch bracket rewelded. Every day or so I adjust the clutch pedal further in (it's sitting about flush in height as the brake pedal). The reason I ask is that there is a certain point where the shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 is slightly chunky. If I adjust the screw in a little bit, it eliminates this. I don't think the TO bearing is ridden from what I can tell. As for pedal free play I don't really thing I had any floppy feeling at all since there is a return spring on the pedal.

05-17-2007, 10:50 AM	#23
hsoj_v Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2006 Location: San Jose, CA Age: 35 Posts: 84 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	No I can't shift into gears when the pedal is all the way on the floor. I'm not using a vaccum bleeder either just flowing fluid though the bleeder nozzles waiting for a clear line until no more air bubbles. Probably I let air in at the time of bleeding... just didn't notice. Thanks guys... I'll try and bleed the clutch system again. __________________

05-17-2007, 10:56 AM	#24
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 42 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	so you're gravity bleeding it? That's you're problem. I only ever had that work on certain brake systems. You need to have someone manually operate the pedal while you work the bleeder screw. Just use the standard two-man bleeder procedure and you should be set. __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

05-17-2007, 12:28 PM	#25
hsoj_v Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2006 Location: San Jose, CA Age: 35 Posts: 84 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Oh man... i feel stupid. You're right Dream. It was a bleeding issue. Haha Thanks Man! Now my car can finally move after 2 years of it sitting there. __________________

05-17-2007, 01:25 PM	#26
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 42 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Glad you got it figured out. Damn 2 years? I don't know if I could go 2 months not driving my baby. Have fun and drive safe! __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

05-17-2007, 02:03 PM	#27
hsoj_v Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2006 Location: San Jose, CA Age: 35 Posts: 84 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	OK... well one more small problem. There is pressure in the pedal now but it only comes back halfway. I can start the car but I cannot engage the clutch into gear. I checked to see if the slave cylinder is pushing the rod and it is. Could it be that there is still air in there? __________________

05-17-2007, 02:11 PM	#28
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 42 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	There could still be air in there, sometimes you have to bleed the system out a few times. What you do is bleed it, then start it up, push the clutch a few times to check feel. Then top off fluid and repeat the process. Each time the peal feel should get stronger. If it's returning at all then your system is good. You just have to bleed it out a few times. Also make sure the fluid stays full while bleeding. And check for leaks in the system after each bleed process. If this still doesn't work and you've got the SC pushing out all the way on the fork, you got a bad clutch/throw out bearing, that's not allowing the clutch to release. Rarely you will have a broken pivot ball or fork that's not allowing the clutch to work properly. Either way I'd suggest a full clutch system inspection if the bleeding doesn't solve your problems. GL __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

05-18-2007, 12:53 PM	#29
hsoj_v Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2006 Location: San Jose, CA Age: 35 Posts: 84 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Yey! Got the car moving, Thanks dream. Small problem is that the clutch does go in now it gets into gear but a bit driving around the clutch seems like it starts to get weaker and weaker. so I got to pump it while i'm driving. __________________

05-18-2007, 01:24 PM	#30
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 42 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	After you got done dirving it around was the fluid lower than before? If you're having to pump the pedal then you got a clutch system leak prolly in your M/C. You should have fluid leaking out somewhere. Is the M/C new? I forget if you said so already. __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

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