PoorMans180SX

Precisely, dear Watson.

Wisefab has some combo of drop and control arm movement to get 56mm

My old TDP knuckles had 15mm of hub movement and 55mm of control arm drop for 70mm.

Still waiting on my new knuckles...

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dudermagee

And what are those?

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PoorMans180SX

100mm roll center correction TDP knuckles. I'm not sure on how they are formatted as far as how much the hub is raised vs the control arm drop. I will measure when I get them.

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Motary

Roll center height and the amount pivot points are lowered/raised don't change equally, especially not on a macpherson strut

GKTECH

time for some track testing. The current Australian dollar is good for you guys. The intro price is going to be $199 AUD including our sales tax which is $181AUD excluding our tax = $162USD + delivery.

40mm roll centre correction and a little over 60 degrees of bolt on steering lock.

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Mr_Flamenco

Is it ready to be shipped to customers?
can you ship it to Muscat, Oman, I guess this is the best option for me for now.

GKTECH

It is still in development. It should be finished in around 2 months time if everything goes to plan.

Sorry we can't help right now.

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PoorMans180SX

Yeah I know, but it's a lot easier to compare by stating the amount they are changed on the knuckle. We haven't all modeled the front suspension like you :P.

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sviellvoicae

This thread has so much info it's un real! I have a quick question and probably stupid but I currently run tein inner tie rods with the slip on spacer, s14 moog outters, and poly rack bushings in an s13. My issue is that the steering locks up bad at full lock and I can't figure out why. It's super hard to bring the wheel back after it hits full lock. Is my rack over centering? If so how do I fix this? Sorry but I have only recently got into the steering angle stuff. I've read a lot but haven't found an exact answer to this. Thanks!

az_240

^sounds like it. There are a number of things that can help fix this like raise the car, reduce caster, move the steering rack forward (modify xmember or use eccentric bushings like what PBM sells), offset tie rod spacers, or try different knuckles.

ditchs14

stop working on everything else and move this to the front of the line please lol. i really want these asap.

Matej

Hooray. Money ready.

TheRealSy90

Omg I can't wait for those GKTech jammies.

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Matej

Do these look to be a quality piece? I like the range of adjustment, since I want to run them diagonally, but I do not know anything about bearings or materials and such.





Also, are S-chassis damper shafts generally of a universal diameter? I noticed that most of the upper pillow balls are 18mm ID. I want to try running the Fortune Auto radial top hats. Even if they do not mate up directly, I am sure it should not be too difficult to make them work on most coilovers. Has anyone attempted using them on a non-Fortune coilover yet?

aca240

^this, Will you be during a pre-order on these?

Also, Matej, who makes those top hats? I also run my camber plates diagonally and would like some more room for camber/caster. I was thinking about machining my current plates....

thefro526

The Camber plate looks pretty standard, all things considered, it looks like they used 1/4" Aluminum Plate, probably 6061 since it's the most common, though it could be something else. If it's 6061, it should/will be more than strong enough, if it's not, it could either be weaker or stronger. (generally, 6061 would be the minimum for something like this, with 2000-series or 7000-series being stronger options)

I dig how they notched the bearing mount for clearance at the mounting bolt, that's probably good for another degree or so of adjustment, though I'm not sure if that's really going to be useful unless you're increasing the track width.

The bearing is a shot in the dark, I'd see if they publish the brand and go from there. If it's some random no name brand, the bearing is probably junk - if it's a well known brand (IE QA1, Aurora, etc) I wouldn't worry about it.

The Upper Spring Seat/whatever you call it, might be specific to fortune auto coils - you'd have the take your current coils apart and measure the diameter of the shaft and go from there. If it's smaller, you can probably have a sleeve/spacer machined to make up the difference, but if it's bigger, than you've pretty much got to replace the bearing, which may or may not be reasonable. Edit: I just thought about this some more, and the bearing ID appears to be significantly larger than the strut shaft OD which is why fortune presses that sleeve in there - meaning that you would only need to get a new sleeve made if your strut diameter is different than what it's made for. Odds are you can have any machine shop with a decent lathe knock these out for a couple bucks - on something like this you can pretty much take the existing part in there and say 'I need this, but with a XXmm Diameter hole in it'.

To be completely honest, if I were you, I'd take your upper spring seat that's currently on the Coil overs to a Machine shop or someone that knows CAD/Drafting/Engineering Stuff and have them come up with one that works with your coil overs. To be quite honest, it's not a difficult part to design or make, if I had all of the required data in front of me, I could draw it up in ~1hr give or take.

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Matej

Thanks for the information. The camber plate is by a company named Dibed from Poland, though they also sell on Ebay. They mostly make parts for BMW drifting.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dibed/334916316552003

I looked more into top hat options that rotate independently of the upper pillow ball bearing since it seems that it would be beneficial for ease of steering when the spring/upper bearing is under heavy load, especially when it comes to an activity such as drifting.
Apparently people in the 240SX racing community have been into such things:
Camber Plate Design - Nissan Road Racing Forums

Croustibat

I know BC racing gives an option for a top hat with caster and camber independant plates. I dont know if they sell them individually, but you may want to check it.

Motary

Those are indeed sold individually

Motary

Here's the early model look on the tension rod I would like to manufacture and sell:



Currently it is not with a double adjuster, but it there is demand it will be introduced.

All suggestions and ideas are welcome

For pricetag, I am thinking 150 USD as intro price

Mr_Flamenco

Is there a version that will fit S13

Motary

It is for S13

Mr_Flamenco

When is the release Date

slidewayz240

First working prototypes are finished.




After just a few miles of normal street driving on these things I can feel a huge difference in the amount of front grip on turn in. First track day testing will be on Sept. 14th.

Motary

About a month

e1_griego

I run FA upper plates on my koni 8610 setup -- just have to play the bushing swap game, at least for konis. The shafts on the konis are 14mm and the ID of the bushing that comes with plates is 12mm so I had to get some bushings from McMaster-Carr to make it work.

xilovelsdx

Lower control arm is definitely limiting the angle you can get from these.

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Chris28

Managed to break an LCA at the track this past weekend, debating on what direction to head next. I want a spherical bearing on the subframe side, but I'm hesitant to modify oem arms after this past weekend. I'm thinking about giving this product a try:



My biggest concerns right now are that the ball joint cup isn't welded on at an angle, and he says he's using screw-in ball joints, which I wasn't aware existed in s13 diameter and taper. I'm not too concerned about the lack of a sway bar mount, that can be added later. He also has shims for the tension rod misalignment spacers, so biding isn't an issue while adjusting caster. As far as I know they haven't been tested on a car yet, I'd like to get some feedback from other drivers.

Motary's tension rod looks promising, it might convince me to stay with a stock style LCA.

Jonnie Fraz

My take on these arms is they are nothing special. Look at the tubing...it is just ESW tube with a nut welded to it. The welding looks suspect also.
Why not run modded stock control arms...My buddies car had a small run in with the wall and he broke the Battle Version weld in adjuster that I installed. Now that being said the adjuster gave up and saved the cross member just like it was supposed to. Next time I will have a spare set of FLCA's as this ended the day.

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Motary

THose look insanely heavy! I remember when I made my single piece arms that about 65% of the original mass was machined off after they had been laser cut. The tension side tubing looks fine, stress is mainly on the rod end body.