boogerlovers

I was looking throught the oem conversion thread and i saw that you can use the J30 fivr lug hubs on an s13. My question is can you use the front and back hubs? Im aware of the clip modificstion needed to use the hubs, any useful information is greatly appreciated

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240_SeXy

i have the fronts they work like oem i dont know about the rear

Propaganda

From what i read, rear should work, but you have to use the whole knuckle

chucky norris

you just have to switch out your s13 bearings in to the front j30 hubs and it should bolt up

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Shift n Drift

rear you need from j30:
complete knuckle with caliper
both axles
differential
lower control arms (upon installation you'll see the bushings dont fit into the s13 subframe, well all you have to do is make them fit by grinding them down, but be sure to constantly dip bushing in water so you dont fry the rubber bushing)
ebrake cable, install cut and crimp cable to old cut but lengthy old s13 cable.

tapdeznutz

i didnt see the need to cut and reinstall the locking clip for the front hubs, they are pressed in good and besides it looks like the clip is only used for keeping the floating wet bearings from falling off. my fronts are good as well.

AZSCsideways

being a machinist myself, I recommend that you recut the snap ring grove. valid point that the snap ring grove is to keep the floating bearings in place, but with what most of us do with are cars (heavy track use at least in my case) the heat and pressures involved you should have a snap ring in place to keep the bearing from moving. the press fit is under .002 witch isn’t much (in the machining world) when your rotors that see 150 degrees +...at that temp the material expands and bearings will begin to float, it’s your call and you can do what you want with your own car but for less than 100$ to pay someone to recut the grove and have the peace of mind that your hub will not slip from the bearing at all...to me it’s worth it...

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Rear J30 conversion is such a pain, and it gets pricey.

For front J30 5 lug swap just put s13 bearings in them, slip on and go. While I agree that the snap ring is pretty vital, I have NEVER seen any J30 front hub swaps become a problem, heck, this guy used them up untill the Driftworks knuckle swap.

AZSCsideways

like i said its up to him, his car...but even if EVERYONE was doing it i would still do the snap ring (like i said under 100$...cant go wrong with that) just my .02...

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tapdeznutz

if that is the case then we would all should just get brand new isis or others...but yeah im just throwing it out there that most of us are just looking for 5 lug for brakes and wheels options and none to minimal track use. i mean are we all really racing our cars, come on..

AZSCsideways

well my 13 is a full track car so in my case yes, like i said its up to him and that was just my .02... and the 100$ is what my shop rate is but in are case we build injection molds so we wount be the best choice, most shops would do that for less then 60$

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AZSCsideways

old thread but if your thinking about doing this here is what i did, link to my build thread post #27. i highly recommend to do this and by my build thread you can see that i might have a bit of an idea of what im talking about when it comes to inter-working parts, tolerances, and press fits...

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tapdeznutz

i was re-reading through my posts and no disrespect to you AZSCsideways. i see that you have access to a lathe and the machines needed to do this so it makes sense that you would do the "simple" snap ring mod. i would too if i had access to everything i needed. again i do not go to the track and i am very happy with my results with the j30 front hubs without the snap ring.

another note is when the metal heats up doesn't it expand which equals to a tighter fit? also our bearings are sealed so i do not see how the bearings will float, it just did not make sense in my head is all. nice build thread by the way.

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AZSCsideways

none taken man your just going off your first hand experience

both the hub and bearing will expand so the fit will stay the same (yes bearing will be the first to expand but after heat transfer takes over both will grow), its just the fact that the fit is only a .003 press (.0015 a side) witch is a standard press and really not that much (peace of paper is .002 thick just to give an idea of size). most likely it will be ok BUT under high loads and lots of heat from the rotor (autocross or heavy drifting) the bearing MIGHT (not saying it will in all cases) shift, not so much "float" but shift in a hard transfer or sudden impact (pot hole or asphalt transfer). for day to day driving you will be ok, or light track time with long cool down times.

and thanks about the build man

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feito

U guys need the grove, specially simce most re-use the bearings-which you're not suppose to (whole idea here being to save money here [although they are beffier and better built than most aftermarket ones])-youre trusting ur lifes to a pair of re-pressed bearings..

AZSCsideways

^good way of putting it, what i posted is mostly the science of it but thats really what it comes down too

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ov1989

Would you dudes know the length of the OEM front j30 wheel studs?

tapdeznutz

no but i know that they are about 10mm longer then oem s13 4lug hubs

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WTB: Boost Gauge, Hatch Roof Wing

ov1989

Cool I was assuming they were a bit not not positive. As I heard the Nissan quest ones are 15mm longer and are identical to the s13 ones.

tapdeznutz

yeah i was testing fitting 2 5mm slip on spacers and i was still able to get like 8 full turns on the lug nuts. so i know in the future i can add at least 10mm spacers when i am ready for it.

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FS: DSS 1pc Steel Non ABS, 6bolt axles
WTB: Boost Gauge, Hatch Roof Wing