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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 02-16-2004, 07:54 PM   #1
adey
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Legal Test-Only SMOG (CA)

Hey Guys,

Now that my '93 S13 hatch is running (rejoice!), I need to get it smogged at a test-only place then insured, then registered.

However, I'm having a few problems at idle, blowing a tiny bit of grey/black smoke at startup and initially when on gas.
At Idle, the engine shakes a LOT (almost hitting my ebay spl strut bar) and kind of sputters. Idle is high too, around 900+rpm.
On the gas the shaking gets better, but on accel, puffs (like I said) just a little bit of black/dark gray smoke. I pulled an "all clear" (55) code from the ECU.

I'm missing one out-of-view resonator (I think it should be ok, it's not visible at all unless you take the clutch fan etc off) and a charcoal canister.
I plan on doing the following before I actually get it smogged:

Clean AIV (air intake valve?)
Clean MAFS with carb cleaner
Clean air filter (OE panel type)
Clean EGR valve
Find/install new charcoal canister
Change spark plugs

What else can you guys (who're smog-familiar) recommend? I plan on going to a legal, clean test-only place since I have no engine mods at all. One note -- before, when the car did run, I think I was running rich. What can I do to make it run a little leaner (at least at idle)?

FWIW I have lost the intake piping from airbox to unibody so it's an airbox but just hanging in the corner, with a KN panel filter in there. Only other "mod" is spark plug wires.

Any recommendations before I go into this test-only center? Tips or tricks? ... I also plan on getting the engine nice and hot before going in, in hopes that my cat will stay warm through the 1/2 hr to 45 min. wait that they'll probably make me sit out.
Thanks in advance for any help!

-AD
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Old 02-17-2004, 08:25 AM   #2
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Change out the PCV valve
Put a new generic air filter in there

Both are easy and cam help you pass the test.
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Old 02-17-2004, 09:49 AM   #3
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clean MAF with automotive electrical contact cleaner not carb cleaner.
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Old 02-17-2004, 12:03 PM   #4
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Great to hear your car's up and running again!
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Old 02-17-2004, 12:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wylin
clean MAF with automotive electrical contact cleaner not carb cleaner.
I think carb cleaner will mess up the reading?
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:21 PM   #6
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carb cleaner is oil based and does not dry up very easily, electrical contact cleaner is similar but it drys in like very short intervals.
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Old 02-17-2004, 07:13 PM   #7
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Thanks for the suggestions! Does electrical contact cleaner come in pressurized cans too - for easy application? Or are they packaged differently?
As for the PCV Valve... what is this, and where does it go?
I was thinking of just cleaning and re-oiling my K&N, that should be as good (if not better?) than buying a new paper filter, no?
Keep the suggestions coming, and dball - yes, the car's sort of alive! i'm stoked.
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Old 02-17-2004, 07:30 PM   #8
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You can use brake cleaner to clean the MAFS. Kragen usually sells them for 2 for $4.
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Old 02-18-2004, 05:59 AM   #9
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Hmmm brake cleaner vs. electrical contact cleaner... I've tried brake cleaner, but ECC just sounds so much more appropriate.

Has anyone tried both and prefer one over the other? Other opinions? Cheers guys!
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Old 02-18-2004, 08:29 AM   #10
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Brake Clean will work just fine on it, it's made to remove grease, drit, and grime and dry almost instantly (dont' want your brakes oily!)

I'll have to look at a pic of a KA to find where the PCV is, it should be labelled on the vacuum routing diagram sticker on the hood though. It's a cheap $5-7 part at any store.

The oil from your K&N might cause some issues, a paper filter is $5 and it garuntees it's new and will work good.
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Old 02-18-2004, 09:40 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagdStealth
Brake Clean will work just fine on it, it's made to remove grease, drit, and grime and dry almost instantly (dont' want your brakes oily!)

I'll have to look at a pic of a KA to find where the PCV is, it should be labelled on the vacuum routing diagram sticker on the hood though. It's a cheap $5-7 part at any store.

The oil from your K&N might cause some issues, a paper filter is $5 and it garuntees it's new and will work good.
I got mine for 3 bucks!(PCV valve) but even with a diagram I can't find the bitch.....
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Old 02-18-2004, 02:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghettokracker71
I got mine for 3 bucks!(PCV valve) but even with a diagram I can't find the bitch.....
Located under the rad' thermostat housing .. Adjacent to the ALt... little black box. (this is for DE, not E)
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