Greddy type RS vs. type R - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

nismo619 · 05-04-2010, 11:12 PM

i searched and couldnt find the answers i was looking for.

what is the big difference between the two ? I just bought a brand new type rs to replace my old bov and it surges once i boost to about 5 pounds then it flutters and bogs my engine until i let off some. i tightened it all the way tight and this didnt seem to help so i was thinking of getting a type rs cuz i hear they hold more hp? i have a t3/t4 topmount with external wastegate and built motor if that helps at all. thanks

idamaster · 05-04-2010, 11:32 PM

Adjust the spring via the Allen stud at the top.

*fliprayzin240sx* · 05-05-2010, 06:04 AM

Type-R BOV is bigger than any other Greddy BOVs out there. If you look at the flange, the opening for the Type-Rs are bigger.

I use it with a GT3582R boosting to 2 bar with no leaking issue.

sirfallsalot243 · 05-05-2010, 06:54 AM

Ive heard of lots of people experiencing this with the Type S and Type RS's.

SoSideways · 05-05-2010, 07:59 AM

The GReddy Type R BOV is the only one you should be getting. I've had this as my one and only BOV since 2003 and it's held up just fine.

Plus it's huge.

It means business.

nismo619 · 05-05-2010, 08:24 AM

Ok cool thanks guys I'm going to be trading my rs for a type r today to a buddie. so do you think this will stop the fluttering under boost? And are there any markings on the type r too look for to make sure its not a fake? Thanks again.

SoSideways · 05-05-2010, 10:39 AM

Don't think there are any fake Type Rs out there.

In any case, the fluttering under boost thing might not be BOV related, but instead fuel related or timing related.

You best check out all the other things that could be wrong before blindly changing out parts to try and fix your car... although trading out an Type RS to a Type R isn't exactly a bad trade in any circumstances.

nismo619 · 05-05-2010, 04:14 PM

idk where to begin checking. it sounds exactly like the bov and what is weired is is 1st and second it doesnt really do it and in third it starts and in fourth or fith i cant boost past a couple pounds. idk what it could be

nismo619 · 05-05-2010, 04:16 PM

and this motor just had some work done to the block and head

SoSideways · 05-05-2010, 09:25 PM

Sounds like the more load the engine sees, the worse it gets.

HOBBS240 · 05-05-2010, 09:56 PM

Is the Greddy Type-R too much for a stock motor?

nismo619 · 05-06-2010, 12:32 AM

but in first and second it doesnt do it. I traded for the type R and it still does it.I think it could also be my wastegate fluttering because now its stuck open, i can even hear the exhaust going through the wastegate at idle... i just bought a tial 38mm so maybe that will fix it but idk. it is deffinetly something turbo related. help me out ha ha

*fliprayzin240sx* · 05-06-2010, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nismo619

but in first and second it doesnt do it. I traded for the type R and it still does it.I think it could also be my wastegate fluttering because now its stuck open, i can even hear the exhaust going through the wastegate at idle... i just bought a tial 38mm so maybe that will fix it but idk. it is deffinetly something turbo related. help me out ha ha

If your BOV is stuck open then you will have a massive boost leak...you will know its stuck open because your car will run like absolute crap.

SoSideways · 05-06-2010, 07:35 AM

Well, chances of 2 different BOV both being stuck open is pretty slim.

Possible, but highly doubtful.

If your wastegate is stuck open, that could cause what you're describing, since first and second don't really place much load on the engine, your turbo won't really boost much, but once you hit 3rd gear, there's enough load to make the turbo start spooling and making boost, and if your WG was stuck open, your turbo won't spool, but the ECU is already in the timing and fuel maps where it is expecting boost to be there, so that's why your car sputters and coughs and junk.

alonroz · 05-06-2010, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HOBBS240

Is the Greddy Type-R too much for a stock motor?

No, its adjustable to a very low threshold, it worked perfectly on my stock motor...

nismo619 · 05-06-2010, 08:11 PM

ok so i installed a new tial 38mm and the type R bov , and it is still doing it... the bov isnt tightened all the way, more like half so im going to tighten it more once i go somewhere, but the engine doesnt really sputter unless i try and step on it while its happening, and the bov isnt getting "stuck" open its fluttering opening and closing.

nismo619 · 05-06-2010, 08:12 PM

and let me remind you i am making 400hp with my setup

*fliprayzin240sx* · 05-06-2010, 08:30 PM

K i re-read what you posted, you said you can hear the turbo fluttering and then the engine would bog? Have you pressurized the whole system to see if you have any boost leak?

nismo619 · 05-06-2010, 09:08 PM

no idk how ?

nismo619 · 05-06-2010, 09:09 PM

i mean i checked th couplers and its deff not my intercoler its new

Sileighty_85 · 05-06-2010, 10:08 PM

Where are you getting your Vac source from?

Check the lines for breaks and cuts or try switching the Vac source, Give it its own Vac source

nismo619 · 05-06-2010, 10:54 PM

yeah im thinking its a vacum problem also, but my bov has its own vacum line from the manifold and the wastegate vacum line goes to my compressor on the turbo.

SoSideways · 05-07-2010, 07:59 AM

You need to do what Ray said to do and perform a boost leak test.

Just because your intercooler is new doesn't mean it can't have pin hole leaks and stuff. Friend of mine cheaped out when he was building his SC300 w/ a 2JZ swap in it, and bought some cheap eBay intercooler and eBay Veilside intake plenum knock off, and those turned out to have pin hole leaks from shitty casting.

In any case, buy yourself a PVC cap the size of your MAF, then drill and tap a hole in the middle of it for an air hose hooked up to an air compressor with a regulator on it, then just set the compressor for 10psi and let it go through that cap. Put that PVC cap where the MAF would have gone.

From there, listen for any air leaks. It would be very obvious as you will hear it leaking out from somewhere if it was a huge leak.

But if you don't hear anything, then start checking the entire length of your piping, intercooler, hoses, etc. just to double check.

Sileighty_85 · 05-07-2010, 08:36 AM

which port on the manifold?
S13 SR?
Stock Manifold or Greddy?

the bottom Port of the S13 TB doesnt create a Vac use one of the top ones

nismo619 · 05-08-2010, 12:10 AM

ok so we did a couple tests today and are still stumped. we filled all the plumming with a smoke machine idk what they are called nut yeah... no leaks but this wasnt a high pressure test for boost leaks. we will be doing that monday cuz we didnt have the right things to do it. its weird it runs super rich when it does this too. we changed the timing several times and it didnt seem to fix it. we think it has a boost leak so like i was saying first thing monday we are going to do the test. and my fpr vacum line is on the tb nipple, is this bad ? i only have one nipple on the manifold right now (greddy mani) and i didnt want to Tee my fbr,bov,and boost gauge all together like they were so thats why i did that. think of anything else maybe ? its weird that it runs rich when it sputters its like the air is leaking but the fuel is still getting there...

*fliprayzin240sx* · 05-08-2010, 05:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nismo619

ok so we did a couple tests today and are still stumped. we filled all the plumming with a smoke machine idk what they are called nut yeah... no leaks but this wasnt a high pressure test for boost leaks. we will be doing that monday cuz we didnt have the right things to do it. its weird it runs super rich when it does this too. we changed the timing several times and it didnt seem to fix it. we think it has a boost leak so like i was saying first thing monday we are going to do the test. and my fpr vacum line is on the tb nipple, is this bad ? i only have one nipple on the manifold right now (greddy mani) and i didnt want to Tee my fbr,bov,and boost gauge all together like they were so thats why i did that. think of anything else maybe ? its weird that it runs rich when it sputters its like the air is leaking but the fuel is still getting there...

That definitely screams boost leak right there...

nismo619 · 05-08-2010, 05:58 PM

thats what im saying ! lol but i dont have the stuff to presurize it though. this sucks!

im going back to the shop thursday to do the presure test but i dont want to wait that long...

Unique · 05-08-2010, 06:09 PM

I was having a similiar issue, just added a stronger spring to my bov and it solved the problem.

nismo619 · 05-08-2010, 06:19 PM

ok well my typr r thats on it was over half tightened but i guess ill tighten it all the way and see what happens. i have a tial q but need to get the flange welded on.

nismo619 · 05-08-2010, 06:23 PM

ok this might sound like a stupid question but, if i am under the hood and rev my engine and the bov stays closed and i feel no air come out is that too tight ? when it was stock it would blow off...

and this also might be a dumb question but, when i shift and the bov flutters instead of making the pshhhhh sound doesnt that mean its too loose ?

05-04-2010, 11:12 PM	#1
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Greddy type RS vs. type R i searched and couldnt find the answers i was looking for. what is the big difference between the two ? I just bought a brand new type rs to replace my old bov and it surges once i boost to about 5 pounds then it flutters and bogs my engine until i let off some. i tightened it all the way tight and this didnt seem to help so i was thinking of getting a type rs cuz i hear they hold more hp? i have a t3/t4 topmount with external wastegate and built motor if that helps at all. thanks

05-05-2010, 06:04 AM	#3
fliprayzin240sx Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 17,998 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx Feedback Score: 19 reviews	Type-R BOV is bigger than any other Greddy BOVs out there. If you look at the flange, the opening for the Type-Rs are bigger. I use it with a GT3582R boosting to 2 bar with no leaking issue. __________________ If you think Zilvia has too many assholes... CLICK HERE!!!

05-05-2010, 07:59 AM	#5
SoSideways Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: 你老母 Posts: 4,371 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	The GReddy Type R BOV is the only one you should be getting. I've had this as my one and only BOV since 2003 and it's held up just fine. Plus it's huge. It means business. __________________ SoSideway's iTrader Rating!! *SoSideways' Review Thread!!* http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

05-05-2010, 10:39 AM	#7
SoSideways Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: 你老母 Posts: 4,371 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Don't think there are any fake Type Rs out there. In any case, the fluttering under boost thing might not be BOV related, but instead fuel related or timing related. You best check out all the other things that could be wrong before blindly changing out parts to try and fix your car... although trading out an Type RS to a Type R isn't exactly a bad trade in any circumstances. __________________ SoSideway's iTrader Rating!! *SoSideways' Review Thread!!* http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

05-05-2010, 09:25 PM	#10
SoSideways Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: 你老母 Posts: 4,371 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Sounds like the more load the engine sees, the worse it gets. __________________ SoSideway's iTrader Rating!! *SoSideways' Review Thread!!* http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

05-04-2010, 11:32 PM	#2
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Adjust the spring via the Allen stud at the top.

05-05-2010, 06:54 AM	#4
sirfallsalot243 BANNED Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Doylestown, PA Age: 33 Posts: 468 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Ive heard of lots of people experiencing this with the Type S and Type RS's.

05-05-2010, 08:24 AM	#6
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Ok cool thanks guys I'm going to be trading my rs for a type r today to a buddie. so do you think this will stop the fluttering under boost? And are there any markings on the type r too look for to make sure its not a fake? Thanks again.

05-05-2010, 04:14 PM	#8
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	idk where to begin checking. it sounds exactly like the bov and what is weired is is 1st and second it doesnt really do it and in third it starts and in fourth or fith i cant boost past a couple pounds. idk what it could be

05-05-2010, 04:16 PM	#9
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	and this motor just had some work done to the block and head

05-05-2010, 09:56 PM	#11
HOBBS240 Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Utah Posts: 52 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Is the Greddy Type-R too much for a stock motor?

05-06-2010, 12:32 AM	#12
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	but in first and second it doesnt do it. I traded for the type R and it still does it.I think it could also be my wastegate fluttering because now its stuck open, i can even hear the exhaust going through the wastegate at idle... i just bought a tial 38mm so maybe that will fix it but idk. it is deffinetly something turbo related. help me out ha ha

05-06-2010, 07:35 AM	#14
SoSideways Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: 你老母 Posts: 4,371 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Well, chances of 2 different BOV both being stuck open is pretty slim. Possible, but highly doubtful. If your wastegate is stuck open, that could cause what you're describing, since first and second don't really place much load on the engine, your turbo won't really boost much, but once you hit 3rd gear, there's enough load to make the turbo start spooling and making boost, and if your WG was stuck open, your turbo won't spool, but the ECU is already in the timing and fuel maps where it is expecting boost to be there, so that's why your car sputters and coughs and junk. __________________ SoSideway's iTrader Rating!! *SoSideways' Review Thread!!* http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

05-06-2010, 08:11 PM	#16
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ok so i installed a new tial 38mm and the type R bov , and it is still doing it... the bov isnt tightened all the way, more like half so im going to tighten it more once i go somewhere, but the engine doesnt really sputter unless i try and step on it while its happening, and the bov isnt getting "stuck" open its fluttering opening and closing.

05-06-2010, 08:12 PM	#17
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	and let me remind you i am making 400hp with my setup

05-06-2010, 08:30 PM	#18
fliprayzin240sx Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 17,998 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx Feedback Score: 19 reviews	K i re-read what you posted, you said you can hear the turbo fluttering and then the engine would bog? Have you pressurized the whole system to see if you have any boost leak? __________________ If you think Zilvia has too many assholes... CLICK HERE!!!

05-06-2010, 09:08 PM	#19
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	no idk how ?

05-06-2010, 09:09 PM	#20
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i mean i checked th couplers and its deff not my intercoler its new

05-06-2010, 10:08 PM	#21
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Where are you getting your Vac source from? Check the lines for breaks and cuts or try switching the Vac source, Give it its own Vac source __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

05-06-2010, 10:54 PM	#22
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	yeah im thinking its a vacum problem also, but my bov has its own vacum line from the manifold and the wastegate vacum line goes to my compressor on the turbo.

05-07-2010, 07:59 AM	#23
SoSideways Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: 你老母 Posts: 4,371 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	You need to do what Ray said to do and perform a boost leak test. Just because your intercooler is new doesn't mean it can't have pin hole leaks and stuff. Friend of mine cheaped out when he was building his SC300 w/ a 2JZ swap in it, and bought some cheap eBay intercooler and eBay Veilside intake plenum knock off, and those turned out to have pin hole leaks from shitty casting. In any case, buy yourself a PVC cap the size of your MAF, then drill and tap a hole in the middle of it for an air hose hooked up to an air compressor with a regulator on it, then just set the compressor for 10psi and let it go through that cap. Put that PVC cap where the MAF would have gone. From there, listen for any air leaks. It would be very obvious as you will hear it leaking out from somewhere if it was a huge leak. But if you don't hear anything, then start checking the entire length of your piping, intercooler, hoses, etc. just to double check. __________________ SoSideway's iTrader Rating!! *SoSideways' Review Thread!!* http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

05-07-2010, 08:36 AM	#24
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	which port on the manifold? S13 SR? Stock Manifold or Greddy? the bottom Port of the S13 TB doesnt create a Vac use one of the top ones __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

05-08-2010, 12:10 AM	#25
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ok so we did a couple tests today and are still stumped. we filled all the plumming with a smoke machine idk what they are called nut yeah... no leaks but this wasnt a high pressure test for boost leaks. we will be doing that monday cuz we didnt have the right things to do it. its weird it runs super rich when it does this too. we changed the timing several times and it didnt seem to fix it. we think it has a boost leak so like i was saying first thing monday we are going to do the test. and my fpr vacum line is on the tb nipple, is this bad ? i only have one nipple on the manifold right now (greddy mani) and i didnt want to Tee my fbr,bov,and boost gauge all together like they were so thats why i did that. think of anything else maybe ? its weird that it runs rich when it sputters its like the air is leaking but the fuel is still getting there...

05-08-2010, 05:58 PM	#27
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	thats what im saying ! lol but i dont have the stuff to presurize it though. this sucks! im going back to the shop thursday to do the presure test but i dont want to wait that long...

05-08-2010, 06:09 PM	#28
Unique Zilvia Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: 818 Cali. Posts: 178 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	I was having a similiar issue, just added a stronger spring to my bov and it solved the problem. __________________

05-08-2010, 06:19 PM	#29
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ok well my typr r thats on it was over half tightened but i guess ill tighten it all the way and see what happens. i have a tial q but need to get the flange welded on.

05-08-2010, 06:23 PM	#30
nismo619 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 148 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ok this might sound like a stupid question but, if i am under the hood and rev my engine and the bov stays closed and i feel no air come out is that too tight ? when it was stock it would blow off... and this also might be a dumb question but, when i shift and the bov flutters instead of making the pshhhhh sound doesnt that mean its too loose ?

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode