Installing braided oil line question. Pics included - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Prelude Guy · 11-25-2007, 08:14 PM

Hey guys,

I am trying to finish up my S15 T28 install. I purchased some steel braided lines. The install is going well until I got to the oil line. I am installing the fitting and I am not sure how much to torque it down. There seems to be a lot of threads showing even after it feels like it is tight. It's not too tight. It never gets to the point where it gets difficult to turn.

I compared the length of the new fitting to the old one. The aftermarket fitting is noticeable longer.

Instead of proceeding, I figured I would ask before ruining the turbo.

Here's the part I am installing:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...olantline2.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...olantline1.jpg

That's the fitting installed to the point where it gets a little more difficult to turn. That's how much extra threads are left to tread.

Also, since I have you guys, is it common for the coolant line to be a little too long? Not sure why mine is so long. Seems like it's about ~4" too long.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I can't wait to get this turbo back on and put the engine back in my car.

*slider2828* · 11-25-2007, 08:24 PM

when it gets wrist tight... Start the car and run it... Check if there are leaks, if so tighten a little bit more..... Your main worry is stripping the block.... So trial and error

Slidin240Wayz · 11-25-2007, 08:40 PM

Forget trial and error.

Did you put "the white tape" (brain fart)

If so, hand tighten + .5 a turn.

You'll be set.

Wiisass · 11-25-2007, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slidin240Wayz

"the white tape" (brain fart)

teflon.

Or there are different pipe thread sealants you can use. I like them better than teflon tape.

Prelude Guy · 11-25-2007, 08:52 PM

Uh oh. What's the white tape? Where can I get it from? I saw one pic of soneone's SBLs with white stuff on the threads but I didn't know what it was. If it's a good idea...I will do it!

As for starting the car....my car hasn't run since I bought it.....3.5 years ago.

My rebuild has been long and extensive.

Thanks for the help.

Jung918 · 11-25-2007, 09:15 PM

You would teflon tape for a better seal and it also helps when you take the fitting off. If you are not leaking, then I wouldn't really bother with it.
You can find teflon tape at home depot or there is teflon paste you can find at pepboys.

g6civcx · 11-25-2007, 09:28 PM

Teflon tape is like plumber's tape to help seal threads from leaks. You can get it at auto parts store or Home Depot/Lowes.

When attaching regular fittings, you can apply one piece of teflon tape and put a copper washer for piece of mind.

For AN fittings, do not attach anything because the flare fittings seal themselves.

SixMachine · 11-25-2007, 09:44 PM

Honestly Forget the tape!! I don't use that stuff. I learned at my local speed shop that all the O.G. muscle car guys use "LIQUID TEFLON" for Earl's, Russel fittings for their nitrous bottles oil coolers and stuff like that. This stuff can be found at any auto parts store. Apply it like Thread locker or anti seize and your good. Seals good and is a even better piece of mind. It looks kinda of like a small tube of toothpaste

bwake 5 · 11-25-2007, 10:06 PM

im willing to bet you have the line on backwards. turn it around and i am almost 100% sure that it will fit perfect.... lmk if im right.

there shouldnt be any thread showing on the turbo side.

g6civcx · 11-25-2007, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwake 5

im willing to bet you have the line on backwards. turn it around and i am almost 100% sure that it will fit perfect.... lmk if im right.

there shouldnt be any thread showing on the turbo side.

Damn, I didn't catch that.

bwake 5 · 11-25-2007, 10:15 PM

???? am i right?

switch the fittings around.

g6civcx · 11-25-2007, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwake 5

???? am i right?

switch the fittings around.

It looks like you are. AN fittings have a flared end, not a tapered end.

bwake 5 · 11-25-2007, 10:22 PM

Exactly .

Prelude Guy · 11-26-2007, 08:05 AM

Hmm,

All I did was take the fitting out of the line and install it the way it was.

So the flat end of the fitting should be sticking out? The rounded end goes into the turbo?

All of the other fittings I have had the rounded end going into the braided line, and the flat part installing into the block. Are those wrong too?

Thanks for the help, guys!

EDIT:
Here's a pic of the lines EXACTLY the way I got them.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/fi...urboLines1.JPG

g6civcx · 11-26-2007, 09:34 AM

If you're confused, compare the thread with the stock hardline banjo bolt. The pitch on the AN will be very different with a 37* pitch.

The other thing that could be is your thread is stripped. You'll need to retap it or weld a fitting on.

Does the banjo bolt thread in?

bwake 5 · 11-26-2007, 10:29 AM

bwake 5 · 11-26-2007, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g6civcx

If you're confused, compare the thread with the stock hardline banjo bolt. The pitch on the AN will be very different with a 37* pitch.

The other thing that could be is your thread is stripped. You'll need to retap it or weld a fitting on.

Does the banjo bolt thread in?

+1 .

cotbu · 11-26-2007, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwake 5

Huh? what? this is not rocket surgery. Ask someone that has the circuit sport turbo lines installed with an sr20det and s15 spec R turbo. Oh i do.

Quote:

Hmm,

All I did was take the fitting out of the line and install it the way it was.

So the flat end of the fitting should be sticking out? The rounded end goes into the turbo?

All of the other fittings I have had the rounded end going into the braided line, and the flat part installing into the block. Are those wrong too?

Thanks for the help, guys!

The way you had them is correct! My restrictor is on the turbo then line then banjo fitting on the block. I thought it would be trouble using the banjo fitting, but you never touch that bolt again. As for the water line there self-explanatory. The end with the screw clam is not going on the turbo without a new fitting.

Also if you look at the stock line for oil feed it does not sit flush with the turbo, at least mine had threads showing.

Sir, your lines are a bolt on upgrade, you need a restrictor for BB turbo's
I feel like HOUSE!

bwake 5 · 11-26-2007, 12:00 PM

my lines looked exactly as posted in the pic.i also hooked mine up exactly as i posted in the pic..... no threads are showing. and everything bolted up flush,

Prelude Guy · 11-26-2007, 12:06 PM

Again, thanks for the help guys!

However, now I am even more confused.

I THOUGHT I figured out how to install the lines, then I saw this pic.
http://img476.imageshack.us/img476/8871/1000589yi4.jpg
From this thread.
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=159072

This pic is exactly how I thought the lines were to be installed. He's using the flat end of the oil line like I am too on the turbo.

I thought the silver metal line with the banjo bolt opening connects to the block using the OEM oil restrictor bolt to secure it to the block. I thought the opened ended braided line (the one with the red fitting at the end) connected to the back of the block to the coolant line.

Thanks!

Andy

bwake 5 · 11-26-2007, 12:10 PM

on my steel braidedd lines the banjo bolt went to the turbo and the 90 degree angle fitting went on the block.

and my pic is off because i didnt notice that your coolant line was open on one end.... due to the fact that both my coolant lines had 90 degree fittings tapped straight into the block not open.

HellonFire · 11-26-2007, 12:16 PM

I always install them exactly as you did. Works for me everytime.. I think I do have a little bit of threads showing.

Tyler

Prelude Guy · 11-26-2007, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellonFire

I always install them exactly as you did. Works for me everytime.. I think I do have a little bit of threads showing.

Tyler

Did you coat the threads with anything too? How much did you torque it down?

HellonFire · 11-26-2007, 12:26 PM

I use teflon tape. I just go until it feels hand tight, then about a half a turn more. Then crank it up and check for leaks. If leaking, obviously tighten a little more. But be careful not to strip.

Tyler

bwake 5 · 11-26-2007, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellonFire

I use teflon tape. I just go until it feels hand tight, then about a half a turn more. Then crank it up and check for leaks. If leaking, obviously tighten a little more. BUT BE CAREFUL NOT TO STRIP.

Tyler

i underlined the important part lol

HellonFire · 11-26-2007, 12:32 PM

Yes, most important. Especially into the block. Oh god I hate that oil fitting into the block. I've probably stripped 5 now from being in a rush.

Tyler

MegasquirtCA · 11-26-2007, 12:34 PM

Some of you guys are Amazing. He has the fittings on correctly like mentioned by cotbu. The oil inlet is FLARED to begin with so the A/N side is supposed to be up.

Dont even bother with Teflon tape, the oil inlet is flared like a A/N fitting but it also has a extremly tiny oring on it. Putting Teflon will probably burn up from the intense heat.

See the flare fitting. This is MY S15 turbo.

This is my oil line they are 4AN fittings on each.

You coolant lines are fine. Your good. The oil fitting tighten it but dont go crazy.

By the way this is on a CA18DET, the only difference is that my CA uses a different thread on the engine block fitting which is M12x1.00 opposed to SR's M12x1.25.

You can barely see my oil feed line.

Sir · 11-26-2007, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwake 5

Top one - I use mine exactly opposite - fits better.
middle is wrong - the one labled turbo goes back behind the motor to coolant line.
bottom might be right? - altough I use all AN 90* fittings and not banjo.

bwake 5 · 11-26-2007, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sir

Top one - I use mine exactly opposite - fits better.
middle is wrong - the one labled turbo goes back behind the motor to coolant line.
bottom might be right? - altough I use all AN 90* fittings and not banjo.

update:

top one- fits better like i posted. ( i use enjuku lines idk if they are different

middle one- is wrong becuase the enjuku ones are tapped into the block for s14 motors with a fitting. so for his and your application. your right wrong. i apologize, it is right for my s14 motor

bottom one-right

lol

Prelude Guy · 12-01-2007, 01:24 PM

Thanks for the help guys.

I was finishing up the install of the lines, and now I have another issue.

The actuator bar that crosses this fitting is rubbing:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...olantline1.jpg

It hits the fitting a little, enought to cause friction...so it has to be fixed.

I tightened the fitting as much on the turbo as i can. Still not enough clearance between the fitting and the actuator bar.

Any ideas?

11-25-2007, 08:14 PM	#1
Prelude Guy Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Maryland Age: 44 Posts: 397 Trader Rating: (22) Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Installing braided oil line question. Pics included Hey guys, I am trying to finish up my S15 T28 install. I purchased some steel braided lines. The install is going well until I got to the oil line. I am installing the fitting and I am not sure how much to torque it down. There seems to be a lot of threads showing even after it feels like it is tight. It's not too tight. It never gets to the point where it gets difficult to turn. I compared the length of the new fitting to the old one. The aftermarket fitting is noticeable longer. Instead of proceeding, I figured I would ask before ruining the turbo. Here's the part I am installing: http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...olantline2.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...olantline1.jpg That's the fitting installed to the point where it gets a little more difficult to turn. That's how much extra threads are left to tread. Also, since I have you guys, is it common for the coolant line to be a little too long? Not sure why mine is so long. Seems like it's about ~4" too long. Any help is greatly appreciated. I can't wait to get this turbo back on and put the engine back in my car. __________________ 1989 240SX SE Hatch Honda Vouch thread 240SX Vouch thread KA24E part out. All OEM engine parts.

11-25-2007, 08:24 PM	#2
slider2828 Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,824 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	when it gets wrist tight... Start the car and run it... Check if there are leaks, if so tighten a little bit more..... Your main worry is stripping the block.... So trial and error __________________ Turn and Burn!

11-25-2007, 08:40 PM	#3
Slidin240Wayz Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Everywhere Age: 36 Posts: 5,427 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	Forget trial and error. Did you put "the white tape" (brain fart) If so, hand tighten + .5 a turn. You'll be set. __________________ Support Zilvia by purchasing a sticker!

11-25-2007, 08:52 PM	#5
Prelude Guy Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Maryland Age: 44 Posts: 397 Trader Rating: (22) Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Uh oh. What's the white tape? Where can I get it from? I saw one pic of soneone's SBLs with white stuff on the threads but I didn't know what it was. If it's a good idea...I will do it! As for starting the car....my car hasn't run since I bought it.....3.5 years ago. My rebuild has been long and extensive. Thanks for the help. __________________ 1989 240SX SE Hatch Honda Vouch thread 240SX Vouch thread KA24E part out. All OEM engine parts.

11-25-2007, 09:15 PM	#6
Jung918 Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: CA Posts: 3,203 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	You would teflon tape for a better seal and it also helps when you take the fitting off. If you are not leaking, then I wouldn't really bother with it. You can find teflon tape at home depot or there is teflon paste you can find at pepboys. __________________ Sale: Hello Kitty Horn Button S14 Rear Valences K.Y. Gordon the Thief (Tony Chen)

11-25-2007, 09:28 PM	#7
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Teflon tape is like plumber's tape to help seal threads from leaks. You can get it at auto parts store or Home Depot/Lowes. When attaching regular fittings, you can apply one piece of teflon tape and put a copper washer for piece of mind. For AN fittings, do not attach anything because the flare fittings seal themselves.

11-25-2007, 09:44 PM	#8
SixMachine Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Hudson County Posts: 32 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Honestly Forget the tape!! I don't use that stuff. I learned at my local speed shop that all the O.G. muscle car guys use "LIQUID TEFLON" for Earl's, Russel fittings for their nitrous bottles oil coolers and stuff like that. This stuff can be found at any auto parts store. Apply it like Thread locker or anti seize and your good. Seals good and is a even better piece of mind. It looks kinda of like a small tube of toothpaste

11-25-2007, 10:06 PM	#9
bwake 5 Zilvia Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: victoria tx Age: 32 Posts: 256 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	im willing to bet you have the line on backwards. turn it around and i am almost 100% sure that it will fit perfect.... lmk if im right. there shouldnt be any thread showing on the turbo side.

11-25-2007, 10:15 PM	#11
bwake 5 Zilvia Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: victoria tx Age: 32 Posts: 256 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	???? am i right? switch the fittings around.

11-25-2007, 10:22 PM	#13
bwake 5 Zilvia Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: victoria tx Age: 32 Posts: 256 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Exactly .

11-26-2007, 08:05 AM	#14
Prelude Guy Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Maryland Age: 44 Posts: 397 Trader Rating: (22) Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Hmm, All I did was take the fitting out of the line and install it the way it was. So the flat end of the fitting should be sticking out? The rounded end goes into the turbo? All of the other fittings I have had the rounded end going into the braided line, and the flat part installing into the block. Are those wrong too? Thanks for the help, guys! EDIT: Here's a pic of the lines EXACTLY the way I got them. http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/fi...urboLines1.JPG __________________ 1989 240SX SE Hatch Honda Vouch thread 240SX Vouch thread KA24E part out. All OEM engine parts.

11-26-2007, 09:34 AM	#15
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	If you're confused, compare the thread with the stock hardline banjo bolt. The pitch on the AN will be very different with a 37* pitch. The other thing that could be is your thread is stripped. You'll need to retap it or weld a fitting on. Does the banjo bolt thread in?

11-26-2007, 10:29 AM	#16
bwake 5 Zilvia Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: victoria tx Age: 32 Posts: 256 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews

11-26-2007, 12:00 PM	#19
bwake 5 Zilvia Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: victoria tx Age: 32 Posts: 256 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	my lines looked exactly as posted in the pic.i also hooked mine up exactly as i posted in the pic..... no threads are showing. and everything bolted up flush,

11-26-2007, 12:06 PM	#20
Prelude Guy Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Maryland Age: 44 Posts: 397 Trader Rating: (22) Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Again, thanks for the help guys! However, now I am even more confused. I THOUGHT I figured out how to install the lines, then I saw this pic. http://img476.imageshack.us/img476/8871/1000589yi4.jpg From this thread. http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=159072 This pic is exactly how I thought the lines were to be installed. He's using the flat end of the oil line like I am too on the turbo. I thought the silver metal line with the banjo bolt opening connects to the block using the OEM oil restrictor bolt to secure it to the block. I thought the opened ended braided line (the one with the red fitting at the end) connected to the back of the block to the coolant line. Thanks! Andy __________________ 1989 240SX SE Hatch Honda Vouch thread 240SX Vouch thread KA24E part out. All OEM engine parts.

11-26-2007, 12:10 PM	#21
bwake 5 Zilvia Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: victoria tx Age: 32 Posts: 256 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	on my steel braidedd lines the banjo bolt went to the turbo and the 90 degree angle fitting went on the block. and my pic is off because i didnt notice that your coolant line was open on one end.... due to the fact that both my coolant lines had 90 degree fittings tapped straight into the block not open.

11-26-2007, 12:16 PM	#22
HellonFire Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Georgia Age: 35 Posts: 740 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	I always install them exactly as you did. Works for me everytime.. I think I do have a little bit of threads showing. Tyler

11-26-2007, 12:26 PM	#24
HellonFire Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Georgia Age: 35 Posts: 740 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	I use teflon tape. I just go until it feels hand tight, then about a half a turn more. Then crank it up and check for leaks. If leaking, obviously tighten a little more. But be careful not to strip. Tyler

11-26-2007, 12:32 PM	#26
HellonFire Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Georgia Age: 35 Posts: 740 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Yes, most important. Especially into the block. Oh god I hate that oil fitting into the block. I've probably stripped 5 now from being in a rush. Tyler

11-26-2007, 12:34 PM	#27
MegasquirtCA Zilvia Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: South Florida Posts: 610 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Some of you guys are Amazing. He has the fittings on correctly like mentioned by cotbu. The oil inlet is FLARED to begin with so the A/N side is supposed to be up. Dont even bother with Teflon tape, the oil inlet is flared like a A/N fitting but it also has a extremly tiny oring on it. Putting Teflon will probably burn up from the intense heat. See the flare fitting. This is MY S15 turbo. This is my oil line they are 4AN fittings on each. You coolant lines are fine. Your good. The oil fitting tighten it but dont go crazy. By the way this is on a CA18DET, the only difference is that my CA uses a different thread on the engine block fitting which is M12x1.00 opposed to SR's M12x1.25. You can barely see my oil feed line.

12-01-2007, 01:24 PM	#30
Prelude Guy Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Maryland Age: 44 Posts: 397 Trader Rating: (22) Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Thanks for the help guys. I was finishing up the install of the lines, and now I have another issue. The actuator bar that crosses this fitting is rubbing: http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...olantline1.jpg It hits the fitting a little, enought to cause friction...so it has to be fixed. I tightened the fitting as much on the turbo as i can. Still not enough clearance between the fitting and the actuator bar. Any ideas? __________________ 1989 240SX SE Hatch Honda Vouch thread 240SX Vouch thread KA24E part out. All OEM engine parts.

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