JDMBart

Need some inputs on an iacv for a ka24de. There are two different desigignes for the IACV and I would like to know if they are interchangeable and if they will make a difference?

This is the one I have on my car currently:


This is the "redesigned " version that I just bought and would like to know if it will work?


Thanks Guys!

JDMBart

anyone have a clue?

robinsone

Depends on if it was an s13 ka24de to s14 ka24de, i think the plugs are different. Other than that they may work, although for other electrical sensors, such as the temp sensors, I know they are not interchangeable, IIRC. There are some things that you can take from a s13 DOHC and run it in a s13 SOHC. Such as the IACV from a DOHC can be used in a SOHC. If you have the chance perhaps check the FSM for s13 and s14 IACVs and see if their optimum or spec resistance values are close. If these differ, then the electrical signals that operate them would be different and they most likely wouldn't be interchangeable. Just because they may appear different in design/appearance does not mean they won't work. Aftermarket redesign does not always mean the part won't be compatible because it looks different from OEM.

hatch4life

How would you get the different plugs to work?
I got an oem IACV trying to fix my stalling on deceleration issue on my ka-t, and the plugs are different colors/shapes, other than that they are the exact same, the part numbers are the same too (except for two characters scratched off the original one at the end that i cant see)

BTW the new one I recieved from Nissan is the style shown in the picture originally posted

idk how I can't find info on this

Can anyone shed some light on this and help me out?

mechanicalmoron

You're fucked.

Or you could use crimp spades and shoe goo and other such magic to make an intermediate pigtail from your harness to the offending plug - then hide it all under neat black conduit and never speak of it.

hatch4life

Fuck.

I'm not above this.
I don't want to but would that actually work?


Is the original IACV simply not available anymore or something?
Forgot to mention its a 92 ka

r34sr

If you're in a warm weather climate, just block the bitch off. Compensate with the throttle body screw if need be....I have megasquirt so I can easily tune around an iacv...not sure if you will need to do anything other than hold the throttle open a tad on cold starts though.

mechanicalmoron

Pretty sure it would - check fsm for early and late cars, if you're that worried about it... I'd just hook it up and see what happens.

As far as deleting your iacv, with power steering and brakes and everything, if you don't have a high idle, you'll probably have it running like shit at 400rpm coming up to some stops, or even dying sometimes - not a good option for a stock daily. If you have a stock car and start "deleting" stuff like that, you end up with a piece of shit that never runs quite right in any situation or makes even stock power, because the systems that are meant to adapt to different running conditions so the car actually works are all "deleted".

oLemurs

have you tried cleaning out the old one with carb cleaner? really take it apart and you can probably switch some parts from the one you bought with the old one too.

hatch4life

Definitely don't want to delete it, i drive it on the street a lot but it's not a daily its got emissions deleted, t3/t4, 750cc inj, z32 maf, nistune, 9:1 compression, it was also 5 speed swapped several years before the build but always ran fine

I might try taking apart the old one and cleaning it but the one plug was completely broken off and was like that for as long as i remember, never stalled till after the build

btw just checked my tps, the voltage was real low at .26, im going to try and adjust it after work today, if i can adjust it that far.

As well as upload a screenshot of a log from nistune, you can see that as the rpms stall, the TP load and load index go through the roof, what could that be?

hatch4life

TheRealSy90

You know your TPS voltage at idle is supposed to be low, right? It should be telling the ecu that you are not pushing on the throttle.

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hatch4life

yea but not that low right? it's supposed to be around .45 then 4.5-4.7 at WOT correct?
I was only able to adjust it to .36 and at WOT it only goes to 1.93...
Thinking this must have helped a little, I went for a test drive and it was running dead rich.. making it stall even worse. wtf.

hatch4life

BTW I tried this, it still stalls but seems to be doing a lil better, don't have trouble on cold starts either
Right now I'm leaning towards it being the TPS, or at least making it worse

hatch4life

Since i was only able to adjust tps to .36v, i got a new tps and same thing...
I was then told by a friend to adjust the screw on the throttle pulley (NOT the IACV screw) until the tps voltage read .45, i got it to read .45 but still only goes to 2 something at WOT

After I adjusted it I went to start it and it wanted to redline no attempt at idle

How stupid was it to adjust that screw? why would the tps voltage be reading so low when it passes all the other voltage/resistance tests?

mechanicalmoron

You're reading the wrong wires, or doing it backwards, or something - i remember I had that issue once.

vbgambini

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I’m having the same issue in my 92 240sx KA24DE. I had to return the other IACV because the plugs were different. I have the squared plugs and the one I returned had the bigger rounder plugs. This is my daily and trying to find a way to fix this. Is there no way? How do I get the plugs to work or fit? And when these go bad is it the electrical part that goes bad or the body with the idle screw? Please help. Need to get this fixed ASAP since it’s my daily. Thanks!