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Old 08-05-2020, 08:17 PM   #1
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KA24DE Dead 1&4 Cylinders

Finally got the engine together and started it.

Gas dumping out of downpipe.

Pulled spark plugs and found cylinders 1&4 plugs wet. 2&3 are dry.

Plugs and wires are new. Injectors are Deatschwerks OE replacement injectors.

Car starts but knocks. Due to the dead cylinders. So it?s getting air and fuel (obviously) and somewhat spark besides 1 and 4.

Idk if it could be timing because I had set the timing perfect.

Need some help and advice at what it may be. Thanks


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Old 08-05-2020, 08:23 PM   #2
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"Dumping" fuel from the downpipe sounds like bad injector o rings or stuck injectors or something like that. How do you know the timing is right if it isnt running on all 4 cylinders?
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Old 08-05-2020, 08:41 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiewolf513 View Post
"Dumping" fuel from the downpipe sounds like bad injector o rings or stuck injectors or something like that. How do you know the timing is right if it isnt running on all 4 cylinders?

Just checked the O-Rings and they are good.

I know the timing is right because I just degreed my BC Cams last week.

But hell, anything goes I guess.

Car started right up after being down for 3 years. So the timing must have been right imho.


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Old 08-05-2020, 09:08 PM   #4
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Howd you check the orings?
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Old 08-05-2020, 09:11 PM   #5
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Howd you check the orings?

I pulled them out and physically checked


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Old 08-05-2020, 09:24 PM   #6
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Thats not how that works
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Old 08-05-2020, 09:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiewolf513 View Post
Thats not how that works

Really?... Checking the condition of o-rings? Okay right on.

Drop some knowledge if you have any better way.


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Old 08-05-2020, 09:31 PM   #8
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You need to make sure theyre sealing. Easiest way is to pull the fuel rail away from the intake and prime the pump. Have somewhere for the fuel to go
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Old 08-05-2020, 09:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
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You need to make sure theyre sealing. Easiest way is to pull the fuel rail away from the intake and prime the pump. Have somewhere for the fuel to go

Yep they seal fine. Just checked them since I had the fuel rail off.

I?ll try to grab my brand new injectors from storage and swap these out and just change the O-Rings since they are already out.


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Old 08-05-2020, 10:14 PM   #10
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Dont forget to add a little lube on the new orings before putting them in there
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Dont forget to add a little lube on the new orings before putting them in there

Yeah I still some lube from my package from DW. Is there anything else that may cause it? Distributor maybe? I can?t really think of anything else that may cause the flooding.


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Old 08-06-2020, 11:13 PM   #12
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Yeah I still some lube from my package from DW. Is there anything else that may cause it? Distributor maybe? I can?t really think of anything else that may cause the flooding.


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ECU/wiring issue could. Checked the ECU for codes?

What timing are you saying is perfect, mechanical or ignition?
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Old 08-08-2020, 02:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
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ECU/wiring issue could. Checked the ECU for codes?

What timing are you saying is perfect, mechanical or ignition?

Have not yet checked the ECU. ECU is an Auto ?93. ECU hasn?t gave me problems before/prior to engine overhaul.

If you?re talking about mechanical timing as cam timing then yes. I?ve set both cam and ignition timing as close to perfect within my ability.


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Old 08-08-2020, 02:24 PM   #14
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You have to be more descriptive about what you did to set the timing
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Old 08-08-2020, 02:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
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You have to be more descriptive about what you did to set the timing

I degree?d the cams... I mean i dont know how much more descriptive I can be unless you?re asking me to explain the entire process of how to degree camshafts which really begins with setting the timing to true TDC..... if that?s off then everything else would be off and my motor probably wouldn?t have started or would?ve broke my freshly built drive train.

Please, don?t take me as being offensive. I?m just confused as to what I am to say as when I said I degreed the motor, you would expect that I?ve set the motor to true TDC using a dial indicator/piston stop setup. Idk how any more precise you can be with setting timing or than with that method.

But as far as what else I did to set timing... lined up distributor to number one cylinder... timing marks are lined up perfect (part of degreeing cams).

I?m not too sure how else to be more descriptive on the subject of timing.


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Old 08-08-2020, 02:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
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You have to be more descriptive about what you did to set the timing

I apologize, I have other threads about my motor which I?ve described that I?ve degreed my cams etc but I looked at my original post on her and did not explain that. If you?d like to see more of the questions I?ve had, you can look up my name and I?m sure you can find my posts.


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Old 08-08-2020, 03:48 PM   #17
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Boy that was a lot of bullshit about injector o-rings for dumping fuel.

considering the fuel coming out of the injector does not care where the o-ring is at, fuel dumping from an injector would have not a thing to do with a sealing surface. suggesting the fuel would dump either into the cylinder, or lack of o-ring, would leak OUT of the injector hole.

Glad we cleared that portion up.
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Old 08-08-2020, 04:32 PM   #18
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You must be running the no lower injector oring/stuck injector mod. Thanks for your input
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Old 08-08-2020, 04:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Boy that was a lot of bullshit about injector o-rings for dumping fuel.

considering the fuel coming out of the injector does not care where the o-ring is at, fuel dumping from an injector would have not a thing to do with a sealing surface. suggesting the fuel would dump either into the cylinder, or lack of o-ring, would leak OUT of the injector hole.

Glad we cleared that portion up.

Bro wtf? If theres no lower o-ring(or its damaged) on a side feed injector, when the fuel pump is activated the fuel will bypass the injector and leak down into the cylinder.

Please stay out the tech section...ur of no help
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Old 08-08-2020, 07:18 PM   #20
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Have you checked compression and leakdown? Might be a little difficult on a motor that isnt broken in but worth a shot. Make sure youre not using the wrong cc injectors.
Check for spark at the plugs. Get new spark plugs, make sure your plug gaps are set right. If that doesnt do the trick id say youre reaching the rabbit hole of wiring what-ifs
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Old 08-08-2020, 07:22 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Have you checked compression and leakdown? Might be a little difficult on a motor that isnt broken in but worth a shot.
Check for spark at the plugs. Get new spark plugs, make sure your plug gaps are set right. If that doesnt do the trick id say youre reaching the rabbit hole of wiring what-ifs

The spark plugs are still brand new with less than 100 miles on them. They are NGK iridiums and we?re gapped to .044?. I?m just gonna go ahead and replace them once I replace the o-rings.

My compression tester is at work so I?ll have to do that tomorrow


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Old 08-08-2020, 07:25 PM   #22
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Well u can pull the rail off the manifold, leave the fuel lines hooked up. And tun the key on and u can physically see if the orings are bad/leaking. Same goes for fuel injectors stuck open.

No sense in just changing parts without acually diagnosing the problem.
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Old 08-08-2020, 07:28 PM   #23
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Well u can pull the rail off the manifold, leave the fuel lines hooked up. And tun the key on and u can physically see if the orings are bad/leaking. Same goes for fuel injectors stuck open.

No sense in just changing parts without acually diagnosing the problem.

Yeah I?ve done that yesterday and I also pulled out the injectors to physically check the o-rings. All of them weren?t exactly BAD bad. But enough to convince me that they need replacing; a bit of cracking on some and other were a bit crushed. The injectors were fine on the other hand.


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Old 08-08-2020, 07:38 PM   #24
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Did you try "starting" it like that and watching the injectors spurt? Could tell you something or tell you everythings fine. Disconnect the coil at the connector and make sure the fuel isnt flying all over the place for the love of god
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Old 08-08-2020, 07:39 PM   #25
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Did you try "starting" it like that and watching the injectors spurt? Could tell you something or tell you everythings fine.

Yeah used my remote starter and just watched the nozzles. It seemed fine and even to me. Didn?t seem like 1 or 4 was ?flooding? or anything


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Old 08-08-2020, 07:40 PM   #26
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Yez...please check all 4 injectors are firing properly, while cranking.


Have you confirmed you are get spark on all 4 cylinders?


Seems weird that you would be flooding the cylinders so bad its coming out the exhaust but u dont see and fuel leaking in the cylinders from the injectors
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Old 08-08-2020, 07:47 PM   #27
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Yez...please check all 4 injectors are firing properly, while cranking.


Have you confirmed you are get spark on all 4 cylinders?


Seems weird that you would be flooding the cylinders so bad its coming out the exhaust but u dont see and fuel leaking in the cylinders from the injectors

I used spark tester on the wires and got orange/bluish spark. Spark plug wires are autozone brand and are fairly brand new as well as the distributor cap. That?s why I was thinking of just replacing the spark plugs because I was thinking 1 and 4 could be fouled from drowning in gas???

A friend of mine said that it could be the MAF but i was thinking if it were MAF, then it wouldn?t even start or would heavily bog.


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Old 08-08-2020, 07:50 PM   #28
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Idk about the maf, but toss the old dizzy cap back on and twist on her
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Old 08-08-2020, 07:51 PM   #29
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Idk about the maf, but toss the old dizzy cap back on and twist on her

I would but I gotta wait for my new o-rings to come in... lol. Took them off and the inner rings ended up ripping off lol


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Old 08-08-2020, 07:59 PM   #30
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Yeah ive found that sometimes the old things you think are broken tick better than autojunk. Worth a try
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