|
Home | Rules & Guidelines | Register | Member Rides | FAQ | Members List | Social Groups | Calendar | Mark Forums Read |
Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
01-31-2010, 07:19 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: clermont
Age: 34
Posts: 7
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
95 s14 overheating
i just brough this car the other day and im looking forward to starting this projec. also to be a part of this forum. im very hands on and not affraid to get dirty. i have cleaned her up a little and replaced the maf and battery which got her started right up. the waterpump starting shooting out water which i found out is the seals so i replaced that earlier today (a lot easier than expected) and added coolant. still wants to overheat. next thing mostpeople would turn to is thermostat but that doesnt make sense since its only starting to overheat under load. is has the stock ka that im aware of and has a lot of miles but ide like to get it driveable before i go spending money swaping engines. if u need more info to help out thats fine but any help is appreciated, thanks.
|
Sponsored Links |
01-31-2010, 09:06 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: White Ga
Age: 35
Posts: 25
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
Based on what you said, I would start with just making sure its bleed good. Best way that i have found is to jack the front of the car up making sure the radiator cap is the highest point. Then let it run and bleed out leaving the radiator cap off. Sometimes this can take a while, I like to make sure I get it good and hot. Don't get discouraged ka's are notorious for being a pain to bleed. Also make sure the heat is wide open. g/l
|
01-31-2010, 10:00 PM | #3 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Misawa, Japan
Posts: 6,815
Trader Rating: (8)
Feedback Score: 8 reviews
|
also make sure the radiator is clean inside and out
IE inside tubes not corroded and clogged and the outside fins are clean and free of debris
__________________
後輪駆動車1番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit Last edited by Sileighty_85; 02-01-2010 at 09:04 PM.. Reason: Spellingz |
02-01-2010, 03:47 AM | #4 |
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: clermont
Age: 34
Posts: 7
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
Awsome, thanks guys. I did notice after driving it that it needed more coolant since I topped it off. I saw the coolant moving in the radiator and no leaks out of the weeper hole. Also the top hose gets hot and bottom hose is warm but not really hot so I'm guessing that's good. I will try bleeding then and if not it could be the radiator since it does have 217k lol.
|
02-01-2010, 11:21 AM | #5 |
Premium Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bremerton, WA
Age: 36
Posts: 2,037
Trader Rating: (23)
Feedback Score: 23 reviews
|
i was going to say the same thing as norty. our cars are notorious for this. they require a good bleeding. a few months ago i had to change out my water pump & even after what i thought was a good 'bleeding,' for the following week it would continue you try to overheat. it just takes a while to get all the air out of the system. another option other than jacks/jackstands would be to park on the steepest incline you can find. until your overheating woes go away, carry a container of coolant in your car & remember not to remove your radiator cap when the engine is still hot or all that pressurized coolant & steam is going to burn you
|
02-02-2010, 07:56 AM | #7 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Georgia
Age: 39
Posts: 1,194
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
easy way to diagnose a bad thermostat. or a thermostat that's not opening all the way up
warm the car up to operating temperature, when the temp guage starts to climb, see if the lower radiator hose is getting as hot as the upper hose. when the thermostat opens the lower hose will get hot. as said before, you could also have water flow issues ie the radiator could be partially clogged, or the heater core. you could compare the heat of the heater hoses as well to identify if you have a restriction in the heater core, gl, Dave
__________________
RB25 280z GT30/76R 441hp/381tq [email protected] |
02-02-2010, 06:29 PM | #8 |
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: clermont
Age: 34
Posts: 7
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
Yeah I noticed the hoseshave a bog temperature difference. Maybe I'll try the thermostat. It still overheats after beening driven. Cools down really fast after that. But I did notice that it overheated after I stopped. So it's not cooling as well as it should. I noticed when I was bleeding it that the level flutuated a lot. Is that normal? Like it went down then came back up.
|
02-04-2010, 11:28 AM | #10 |
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: clermont
Age: 34
Posts: 7
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
Will do for sure. I like your confidance it will saw me money if u guys are right. I noticed that thbthermostat had only 2 bolts holding it in when it has three bolt holes. I've found a bolt to replace it but noticed it was leaking really bad when I put it back with just the 2 bolts. Hopefully I'll get it bak together soon and bleed it again. Thanks fr all ur help everyone. It's much appreciated
|
02-05-2010, 10:52 AM | #12 |
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: clermont
Age: 34
Posts: 7
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
Yeah, my thermostat was hel in by the 2 upper bolts I guess the last guy didn't want to put the bottom one back in lol. After this I will bleed it reeally good and see what happens. Thanks again to everyone who has helped
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|