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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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04-16-2013, 09:53 AM | #1 |
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P1320 Diagnosis help
CEL P1320 IGNITION SIGNAL
Hey guys, I just want clarification from someone who has done this and knows what they are doing. This if for a 95 ka24de. In the image below highlighted by the red box, for -a/+c and -b/+c my readings were around 1610 when i should have Infinite or 0. I performed all steps prior to this from the FSM, does this mean I need a new distributor? Or is there anything else that could contribute to this aside from what is mentioned in the troubleshooting steps for this code. I know it clearly states at the bottom "If NG, replace distributor assembly" but I just want others .02 before i buy one. Also, it mentions about using a DMM with a Diode Check position. How does this diode checking work along with reading the ohms. Ive tried looking it up but dont quite get it, yet. Any insight on this is greatly appreciated. Constructive criticism welcome. Thanks Last edited by Alamo_City_210; 04-17-2013 at 10:31 PM.. |
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04-16-2013, 01:14 PM | #2 |
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Can someone that does not have this code/problem check their -a/+c and -b/+c to see if you have infinite or zero as indicated in the FSM EC-109. I just want to make sure I didn't test them wrong.
I'd appreciate it. Thanks |
04-21-2013, 06:02 PM | #5 |
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Code gone=New Code
So I got my new distributor in and replaced it. Code P1320 has now went away but now code P0340 (Camshaft Position Sensor) is here. FML. More checking.......
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05-14-2013, 01:34 PM | #6 |
Leaky Injector
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did you change the CPS yet or still having the same problem?
I also have the p1320 code weird thing is though my car runs fine.... even idles fine. Was advised months ago to get a new distributor...probably going to do that... but now i'm researching and a few people calm they get multiple error codes when they also get p1320 so i'm kinda wondering if one code is throwing another. its a 95 ka original engine ( early model production though so actually built in 94.... i had to run the obdii as a 96.... the scanner didnt have 95 available.... weird no?) |
05-14-2013, 01:42 PM | #7 |
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Well. As I was troubleshooting, I got the results of a bad distributor so I bought a new one. Installed it and the p1320 code went away but now the camshaft position sensor code popped up which wasn't there before. So I figured it may have been a defective distributor so I sent it back. Received the new one but have yet to install it. Initially I didn't understand the troubleshooting with the multimeter as it indicated I needed a DMM with at least 20m ohms. So I bought one. Just haven't been messing with it lately. Been busy so shes just sitting there. Like you said though, still runs and drives fine. But try the troubleshooting in the FSM by checking continuity in the CPS. That might reveal your problem.
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05-14-2013, 01:44 PM | #8 |
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Also, I found that rock auto has the cheapest distributors for about 200$ that's where I got mine. Autozone and other local parts store had them listed for 300$+
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05-16-2013, 06:55 AM | #9 |
Leaky Injector
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Yeah been looking around at prices. Was advised to really stick with a nissan oem part(though many are actually mitsu built lol), not a rebuilt or other brand . But stuff seems pretty expensive when you get it from the stealer, i mean dealer.
I'm going to actually take it in for a second opinion anyway and make sure its not a problem with the ecu pin or any of the wiring.... being its an oldie, you know how the wires can sometimes get. |
05-16-2013, 07:26 AM | #10 |
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Well. I'd say save the money your gonna spend "taking it in" and put it towards a DMM or a new distributor. The one I bought was a brand new Cardone Distributor from Rock Auto. Besides, it's not hard to test things yourself of you follow the FSM. Trust me, it looks intimidating until you start doing it. It's easy.
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05-16-2013, 11:19 AM | #12 |
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Uhm, if it prevents that, idk. I'm new to 240's so I just know what is explained in the FSM. My car still runs like a champ in terms of reliability. I don't ever slam on the throttle so I can't confirm your comment.
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