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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 10-23-2010, 11:54 PM   #1
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No bleeder hole technic to bleeding coolant system.

So before everyone jumps the gun, ive searched and nothing comes similar to my situation. Most were fix and i tried em all but still nothing. This is really frustrating and mind boggling.

Anyways. My situation. I drive the car on the daily, until i notice it started leaking coolant, ive checked all hoses and such. Turns out the water pump is bad. Leaking from the weep hole. So i replaced it with an autozone water pump. Now my car temp is hotter than normal. Keep in mind, my bleeder valve screw is broken.


Ive tried squeezing the hoses as the car is on w/o cap.
Shaking the car and rocking it w/o the cap.
Just letting it idle and warm up w/o the cap.


Before hand, everything is running dandy until i changed the water pump.

And my heater now blows weak. It use to blow hot air almost instantly.


Im leaning on swapping everything to nismo thermostat and cap along with an OEM water pump if i have to. But money is tight, and if i can get by with a simple fix, please chime right in.

Car is 1993 240sx DOHC. BONE STOCK!!
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Old 10-24-2010, 01:10 AM   #2
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Best luck I have had is to park it on a slight incline with the front higher than the rest of the car, buy a funnel and wrap tape around the base so it fits snug in your radiator and fill it with coolant while letting your car run and squeezing the hose. Also leave your heater on max. Hope it helps!
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Old 10-24-2010, 01:36 AM   #3
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put a funnel into the radiator and fill till its the highest point
then just run car with heater on
it will self bleed
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Old 10-24-2010, 01:37 AM   #4
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Thnx man, after reading much more info. Thats the best way to do it. But they also posted to hold the upper hose lower than the radiator and fill it until coolant comes out the bleeder hole, and that where i get lost.

But its worth a shot, I guess ill try all the procedure minus the bleeder whole.
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Old 10-24-2010, 02:43 AM   #5
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Fix the bleeder screw? If the head's snapped off, use a bolt extractor to get it out. Or...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90hatchie View Post
put a funnel into the radiator and fill till its the highest point
then just run car with heater on
it will self bleed
This. Taller the funnel, more water pressure you can put on the air bubbles, the faster it'll bleed.
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Old 10-24-2010, 11:19 AM   #6
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Yeah i was thinkin of that, but i cant get a hold of a bolt extractor at the moment.

Car on an incline
heater on full blast
upper radiator hose keep lower than neck to prevent air on its highest point
funnel (the taller the better) on radiator fill hole, snug and filled with coolant
let idle

im on it.
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Old 10-24-2010, 12:16 PM   #7
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Just an update, I did all whats up there. And the Temp improved substantially. It doesnt peak @ "H" within a block, actually doesnt reach "H" at all. Just a lil above the normal temp marking (HUD cluster).


While doing those procedure, i was constantly squeezing the upper radiator hose while holding it below the rad filler mouth. And i also give the engine a quick burst of RPM jst to try and maybe push the air pockets sitting inside the block.

My heater also works almost instantly. But as i drive the car around it would raise a lil over normal temp with my A/C on full blast. Im not happy but its an improvement.

After a few blocks of driving i came back and let the car sit on idle, turned it off and i quickly but carefully opened the radiator cap not all the way but jst to let some pressure out since heat rises. Thought it might help with the bleeding.

Im about to do the procedure all over again.

Any other proceduce/technic i can use?
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Old 10-24-2010, 12:46 PM   #8
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I use a 2 liter bottle. Cut the bottom off and wrap electrical tape around cap area so it fits snugly into the radiator fill neck so it's water tight. Then I just fill the entire bottle up with coolant and let the engine run. Saw it a tengoku mag once and it seems to work well for me.
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Old 10-24-2010, 12:56 PM   #9
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why dont you take off the top hose fiill that part with coolant then put it back when the collant comes out of the radiator from where the hose is suppose to be and bam bled
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Old 10-25-2010, 02:51 PM   #10
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Revving the engine during the bleeding process is recommended to purge the air better, the water pump isn't circulating enough at idle. Also, if the thermostat has an air pocket behind it, it will never open. If the lower hose is still cold after bleeding you've got trapped air behind the thermo.
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Old 11-02-2010, 03:29 AM   #11
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Ok sorry for the late response fellas. but yeah

i did all that. uhm for some reason my old Rad cap went bad during the process iono. I went to autozone and get a new one, failed. They gave me a smaller one.

Ended up going to Nissan and getting OEM one. so Yeah fix..

And all those works up there. just for future reference for anyone else.
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:17 PM   #12
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damn aha i rmemebr this post and foound it thank god lol i got a s14 mani with a broken screw now lol, and i tried drilling it out but no bueno lol
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