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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 08-17-2010, 05:01 PM   #1
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car dieing when brakes pressed

so heres a little background info,

93' 240sx ka24de-t
rebuilt internals
t3/t4 turbo
megan coilovers
blah blah blah.


I seem to be stuck on an issue that randomly popped up when i came home yesterday.


car runs fine (except bad transmission, being replaced wednesday)
idles alright, accelerates like a beast, and is fast as hell.

but for some reason when i go to press the brakes the rpms drop below idle and seems to die. starts back up perfectly fine, and runs fine after, but i end up having to use the e-brake to stop the car which makes it very difficult to drive.

already had some suggestions thrown out there, disconnect the vacuum hose to the booster and see if it keeps doing it, if not then the booster is bad, but when i disconnect the booster vacuum hose it does the same thing so im assuming my booster is good.

went to the auto parts store and tried replacing the hose all together thinking it might be a leak? nope, still does it.

some one, something, somewhere. help!!!
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:03 PM   #2
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sounds like a vacuum leak honestly have you checked ALL you vacuum lines?
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:05 PM   #3
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hmm... puzzlin'.. usually this happens when you have a vacuum leak, but you said you covered that already.

did you check if ALL your vacuum hoses are connected?
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:10 PM   #4
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well call me a retard, but i only checked and replaced the hose going from the booster to the intake side of the block. havent really checked EVERY vacuum line, its been a while (been away on deployment) so id have to look up a manual or something seeing as i dont know what lines are vacuum lines.


question, would any of you recommend getting a vacuum line checker from like autozone or something?
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:14 PM   #5
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^^^^

No prob man just go & check everything as far as vacuum lines also make sure everything's clamped too
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:19 PM   #6
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im gonna head to the store and grab that vacuum line checker. so i can get this figured out before i run out of daylight. ill def post back tonight with the results. thanks for the help so far
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:21 PM   #7
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Keep us updated if you can also make sure your alternator is in working order because i had an issue kinda related to what you're having & it was due to a bad alternator too just an FYI
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:47 PM   #8
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alright im not gonna lie, i just got this vacuum checker and i have not the slightest clue how to check for vacuum leaks.
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:56 PM   #9
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haha funny, but check the vacuum line going to the brake booster.
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:11 PM   #10
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so i forgot to mention when the brake is pressed it makes a sort of hissing noise, thus pretty much giving it away that theres a leak IN the booster.

agree/disagree ?
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:28 PM   #11
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Keep us updated if you can also make sure your alternator is in working order because i had an issue kinda related to what you're having & it was due to a bad alternator too just an FYI
SAME THING. well you say there is a hiss, but if nothing you do helps, try to swap alternators and see if that helps. good luck.
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:05 PM   #12
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no need to swap alternator...start your car, unplug your battery then press on the brake. if it dies, then it could be your alternator.

but autozone has a gadget that could check your alternator and battery while still in the car.
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:27 PM   #13
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Sounds like a booster. The diaphragm inside the booster is leaking causing a large vacuum leak when the brake pedal is depressed.

There's no logical reason that a bad alternator would cause the car to die only when stepping on the brakes.
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:45 PM   #14
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^^ that makes absolute sense now, i have some money, if anything replacing the booster wouldnt be a bad idea.

but yeah, makes sense, it only dies when pressing the break, and when pressing the break you can hear a hiss coming from inside the booster. ill order one tomorrow and post bad with an update when i install it!

thanks guys
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:00 PM   #15
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100% booster
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:01 AM   #16
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Sounds like a booster. The diaphragm inside the booster is leaking causing a large vacuum leak when the brake pedal is depressed.

There's no logical reason that a bad alternator would cause the car to die only when stepping on the brakes.
yeah well myself and theat other guy had this same problem. My logic tells me that maybe when you press on your brake, it lights up the brake lights, which draw electricity, and kills the car.

when i was having this problem, my automatic seatbelts were acting funny (moving accross the track slowly) so it was indeed some sort of electrical problem that was fixed by swapping alternators.

But, it doesnt sound like this is the OP's problem. OP please report back once you figure it out and post what you did to fix it.
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:17 AM   #17
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i have similar symptoms too. it's frustrating.
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:57 AM   #18
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but for some reason when i go to press the brakes the rpms drop below idle and seems to die. starts back up perfectly fine, and runs fine after, but i end up having to use the e-brake to stop the car which makes it very difficult to drive.
Are you seriously driving around without brakes.. and just your e-brake? You, sir, are a fuckin MANIAC.

roflmao.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:00 AM   #19
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Are you seriously driving around without brakes.. and just your e-brake? You, sir, are a fuckin MANIAC.

roflmao.

negative, i have an SUV i drive, i take the 240 around the block to test my progress. which sucks because i installed my new transmission yesterday and filled it with 80w-90 gear oil and on the way home it started to sound like metal grinding (obv) i figured the oil just needed to get in the gears and what not, but i pulled into my neighborhood and it got REALLY loud. so im gettin really frustrated with this car at the moment.

booster update in a day or two when it comes in
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:13 AM   #20
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What was the condition of the tranny & what brand oil was it. I use 75w-90 Royal Purple in mine but update us on the booster issue too sounds like that's where the issues been.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:30 AM   #21
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it was a used one, about the only one i could find in a 100mile radius of my place. i mean it shifts 130% better then my old one, didnt have any imperfections that i saw, the shop we got it from tested it and put a 90 day warranty on it, but im sure if it was grinding when they tested it they wouldnt of gave it to me. im thinkin theres only a few real possibilities. its not the throw out bearing, its got to be something with the gears. or possibly the driveshaft inside the tranny.

and in all honesty the loudness when i got into my neighborhood sounded a lot like the tranny wasnt bolted 100% like its shaking. which is always a possibility.


^^^^^^
update again, i just took it for a ride around my block, the noise matched the rpm, whether in gear or not. was still there, i got to the end of my street made a u-turn and the noise went away.
im still hoping it was the fact that the tranny was drained of all fluids and just needed to lubricate itself again.

btw it was valvoline gear oil i used
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:43 AM   #22
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yeah well myself and theat other guy had this same problem. My logic tells me that maybe when you press on your brake, it lights up the brake lights, which draw electricity, and kills the car.

when i was having this problem, my automatic seatbelts were acting funny (moving accross the track slowly) so it was indeed some sort of electrical problem that was fixed by swapping alternators.

But, it doesnt sound like this is the OP's problem. OP please report back once you figure it out and post what you did to fix it.
You're right, the brake lights do draw some amperage. However for the brake lights to be the only draw to cause the issue isn't logical. The headlights, radio, blower motor, rear defroster, and possibly power windows also draw amperage (some much more than the brake lights), but the OP doesn't mention these components as a cause of the issue.
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Old 08-23-2010, 02:50 AM   #23
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try and unplug the huge line going to the booster and plug it, with your car idling press on your brakes and see if it dies.
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
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You're right, the brake lights do draw some amperage. However for the brake lights to be the only draw to cause the issue isn't logical. The headlights, radio, blower motor, rear defroster, and possibly power windows also draw amperage (some much more than the brake lights), but the OP doesn't mention these components as a cause of the issue.

exactly my point, no power windows, no defroster, and no a/c lol, it's not a power issue,


@supreme_1

I've already done that and it brakes fine, with the exception of having the booster to make braking easier. thus proving it's either a bad diaphragm in the booster, or the whole booster is bad.
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:58 PM   #25
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i kinda have that problem too!1 i just got my alternator rebuilt on my rb25 and a new battery and new wiring on my charging system and when i push the brake down it slows my fans down and idle drops to its so frusteraing...and when i try to start and it goes tick tick tick tick and then starts ugh!1 i think its my starter too but idk
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No not at the moment but an easy fix. just swap the motor I have in and take the old one out.
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:08 PM   #26
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This happened on my old coupe and it even stalled one time. Never figured you why it did it.
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:11 PM   #27
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You're right, the brake lights do draw some amperage. However for the brake lights to be the only draw to cause the issue isn't logical. The headlights, radio, blower motor, rear defroster, and possibly power windows also draw amperage (some much more than the brake lights), but the OP doesn't mention these components as a cause of the issue.
Unless of course they are shorting to ground and for some reason or another its not popping a fuse. Doubtful situation.

Find a used booster in the classified section of this forum.
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:50 PM   #28
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Is your blow off valve recirculated?
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Old 08-25-2010, 02:49 PM   #29
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Is your blow off valve recirculated?

not sure to be honest, but i think it is.

i have a new booster, just SERIOUSLY slacking on putting it in. the back of the brake petal is really hard to get to.
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Old 10-09-2010, 06:39 PM   #30
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this is old and all, just thought i'd update it;

replaced booster, breaks are good.
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