TheRealSy90

It's sorted. However they aren't revising the shifter setup. It barely fits in S13 and slightly touches the shifter trim in 2nd, 4th, 6th and reverse. Since I don't feel like throwing another $300 on another shifter setup I'll probably just cut the shifter hole and trim :/

They said the current shifter was the most cost effective solution, although they offer the most expensive kit on the market. Guess it depends on how you look at it.

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makro86

Got my hands on the latest prototype of the GKtech Z33 shifter. Pretty much close to a production product - I am quite impressed and can't wait to see how it drives. The shifts are great!

Photos/videos here...
https://www.instagram.com/kgarage_sr20vets/

fatduece

Thanks for the feedback. Looks good. I'm going to buy the shifter as soon as they release it. Your sh*T always looks top notch! Been following you for a while now.

makro86

Thanks for the comments mate! Can't wait to get it going so I can see the past few years of work pay off hah!

d_nice

great kit. had the same issue hope everything goes well

Kylepaschke

Finally got it all situated. I suggest new crossmember bolts and using a thread chaser to get the gunk out. Also, my MA Motorsports bracket hardware had to be trimmed down so that it wouldnt hit the shifter bracket. Other than that, I hammered out the tunnel near the drivers side right by where the cross member bolts up just for good measure.

s13wes

Just recently bought this kit. I don't think it's as bad as the initial comments on this thread. But yeah, for 1800 bucks you'd think it would be more thoroughly engineered. A lot better than the adapter plates where you have to machine off the face of the bell housing though.

Also works on the 370z transmission but you'll have to buy the clutch fork, springs, pivot ball, and slave unless you plan on buying the internal slave cylinder.
I asked Mazworx whether it worked and they pretty much said they didn't know.

TheRealSy90

Why do you need to buy the fork, springs, pivot ball and slave if you use that stuff off of your sr20 transmission? I guess if you didn't have an sr transmission then yeah.


Information missing from this thread:


You MUST either change the pilot bushing to the newer and shorter NEEDLE pilot bearing, or shave the bronze bushing down 1/8" shorter or the input shaft will bottom out in the pilot/crank, even after trimming the input shaft as required in the instructions. I assume your crank thrust bearings will not be happy if you don't do this and start the engine.


If you have a Tomei stroker crank, the needle pilot will still bottom out on the input shaft as the crank is not machined out enough to allow it to be pressed in as far as an oem crankshaft. So I guess you'd need to use a bronze pilot and shorten it even more...

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Rb26kouki

If that's the case I think mazworx should include the new shorter pilot bearing

fatduece

Did you forget to use the recess tool to push the factory pilot bearing in further? Mazworx hasn't said anything, but then again they haven't said anything about the 2nd gear selector until someone ran into the problem. Makes me wonder if they've actually done any road tests.

TheRealSy90

No, this is after using the recess tool! I haven't installed mine yet this information is all from communications between a mazworx rep and some of the kit owners in a group chat we have in instagram lol.


And as far as I know they actually did not road test this kit because the car they prototyped it on was not available anymore when it was finished due to the owner moving.

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fatduece

Man that's some bullshit! Do you have a link to the correct pilot bearing size?

TheRealSy90

Like I said you either have to change the pilot to the newer "Nismo" needle pilot bearing. Or you have to machine 1/8" off of the copper bushing.

As far as which bearing is "better". Up to you to decide for yourself. I've seen pictures and posts of the roller bearings going out. However it doesn't require any modification...

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Kylepaschke

Finally drove around with my mazworx kit and CBF shifter.
Everything works great!
Clutch adjustment needed to get into gear but thats a given.
If I had to do it again, I would simply buy the bellhousing and the driveshaft and trans mount from mazworx individually and get the serial nine shifter.

Rb26kouki

What's wrong with the CBF?

dwnshft2drft

Any issues slipping/burning clutches? Heard rumors from Australia changing clutch every year or couple of months...

Kylepaschke

Nothing is wrong with the cbf shifter at all, its just a little bit hard to find gears sometimes. I am sure i'll get used to it.
Not a single issue with burning up a clutch.
Had it on the dyno last night and the car made 330 wheel at 16 psi.

dwnshft2drft

So mazworx bell housing retains the SR flywheel/clutch of s13/14 or s15?

I really dont know if the mazworx bellhousing makes the z33 splines reach further through the SR clutch?

MazworxUSA

Our kit retains the S13/14 single-mass flywheel, if you have an S15 dual-mass you will have to convert to a single-mass design.

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Contact: [email protected]; 407-281-1223 +25

dwnshft2drft

And no spacer required for the flywheel?

Rb26kouki

No, http://www.mazworx.com/Docs/10145-SRVQ-Adapter-Kit.pdf

MazworxUSA

Yes, there is no spacer involved in this kit, when using our kit it converts the Z33 box to an SR box as far as the bellhousing is concerned, meaning you can use an SR flywheel, clutch, release bearing, slave cylinder, pivot fork, pivot ball, and anything else that I may have missed associated with the bellhousing.

I also read further up about the pilot/roller bearing issue. We now send the roller bearing by default with the kit. We hadn't had to trim a standard style pilot bushing till we tested the kit on an S15 block, after that and the issue with the Tomei crankshafts we felt it would be best to just include the roller style which is shorter to avoid any issues with crankshaft variants.

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Contact: [email protected]; 407-281-1223 +25

Kylepaschke

Four Drift Days down with my setup.

All is well!

TheRealSy90

I know this is a long shot but hear me out. Since OsGiken requires a different release bearing sleeve depth for their twin disc TS2BD clutch. This sleeve "SHOULD" also be the right depth when paired with the Mazworx bellhousing, correct? The sleeves range from 12mm to 32mm thickness and I believe I ordered the 16 or 18mm sleeve, whichever was specific for the s13 sr20 transmission. I'm having trouble finding the actual documents that list everything out.

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MazworxUSA

The bellhousing is cast and machined to match the inner size of the OEM bellhousing, so in theory yes it would work, however: due to the endless clutch combinations offered for the SR20 we can't verify fitment for every set-up.

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Contact: [email protected]; 407-281-1223 +25

TheRealSy90

That's understandable. I guess the best thing to do would be to install the bellhousing by itself, and make sure the clearance between the bearing and pressure plate is correct. I believe it's supposed to have a slight gap when off the pedal.

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MazworxUSA

Awesome to hear!

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Contact: [email protected]; 407-281-1223 +25

Kylepaschke

Six drift days down with the setup and since I last checked in, the last 2 drift days were SUPER hard days lol lets just say i was beating on it pretty good and no issues what so ever.

D-Clem

Awesome! About to purchase this setup myself, just debating on buying the driveshaft and shifter now or doing a shaftmasters aluminum and serial 9 shifter. I love everything about this kit except the driveshaft costs compared to others, however I don’t know who makes the driveshafts so maybe they are amazing and made by DSS, no idea, but ideally I’d like to save a bit if anyone has used the shaftmasters srvq driveshaft and knows if it fits. I’ve heard good things about them. Just can’t justify an extra 225 if it’s the same specs. HOWEVER I will pay a little more because I know it’s right and will bolt right in and be guaranteed just not really keen on that much of a price difference. That’s the part I’m struggling with, can anyone convince me I’m out of line and tell me why it’s worth the extra on theirs? I’m not being an ass I’m seriously wondering because I like paying for quality and would like to understand if I’m missing something.

hanzbrady

They're made by PST (Precision Shaft Technologies) in Florida. I have one in my dad's Nova and that's a BBC with a turbo 400 that leaves on spray with the transbrake. That car has a 3.5" aluminum with 1350 yokes and I don't foresee it dying anytime soon.

Not bashing DSS at all I actually have their aluminum driveshaft in my SR powered 240. I'd personally just go with the aluminum option on the Mazworx site if you purchase it just to keep things simple, plus those shafts have a 3-5 day ship time which is pretty good imo.

As per the shift opt out of it if you don't want to cut the chassis, it functions great, it's just not in everyone's ideal location is all.

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