ka-titties

Also, the information is pretty complete now. I still reference the original post from time to time, but I don't see much more, if anything to add.

bmaddock

This is too true in many ways. I love referencing this thread and what you accomplished putting it together. Thanks!

Seriously what's up with that? Naoki brainwashed all of US grassroots. Does anyone have good feedback on what a setup like that feels?

I'll be honest, I messaged Julian and have a pair of b knuckle on the way to see what this is all about.

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TheRealSy90

Basically people figured out that the amount of possible steering angle isn't the catch-all. Hell i've seen guys throw reverse entries on stock knuckles. It's all in the whole-car setup.

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bmaddock

I took some pictures comparing my gktech rcc v1 to bknuckle. From visyal inspection alone, bknuckle offers lower ackerman and slightly more lock angle.

Ill post up drive feel later this month when i finally get a chance to drive them.

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bmaddock

oops double post

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TheRealSy90

I just wish i could get my gktech angle kit set up properly. I can never figure out what I need to change to do what i want it to do.

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Krusty_s13

What do you want it to do exactly?
Im running the gktech drift/grip knuckle with s14 lcas and its been great!

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PoorMans180SX

I guess the secret to getting bnuckle to work correctly is running big wheel spacers to increase the scrub radius and help self-steer. That's what all these videos of cars setup with bnuckle have been telling me hah.

Yeah what're you trying to do?

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PoorMans180SX

Just updated the first post with some of the newer and more popular products. Also a fantastic link by GKtech that I will post here as well. All about front knuckle design.

https://au.gktech.com/news/gktech-s-...eering-knuckle

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240sx_sr20det

Brainwashed isn't the term I'd use. More like, show what's able to be done on minimal modifications. Driving hard can be done with stock knuckles, but everyone likes to over-build to the moon. I'd say he helped solve a very bad problem in the grassroots communities; over-building the car relative to your skill level.

TheRealSy90

I have problem overcentering.

Rack mounts were moved forward on the subframe, along with rack-forward bushings. Toe was ran around 1/8" out to 1/16" out.

The FLCA I have are the S13 +39>+74mm version set to full-short length.
Knuckles are the newest "Pro Drift" knuckle with caster trail and adjustable ackerman, washers set to less-ackerman.

Top hats are the newest "V3 Premium" with separate caster and camber adjustment. I initially had them set to least camber/least caster (forward and outboard effectively), at one point I moved the top hats caster adjustment toward the firewall about 50%, and this seemed to help the overcentering a little bit but was still doing it randomly.


A little off topic but with the GkTech outer tie rods and drop knuckles on a 17x9 wheel, I ended up having to cut a lot out of the tie rod shank and use 0 bump-steer spacers so that the tie rod wouldn't hit the wheel. At this point the outer tie rods are the same height as oem would be and can't really drop them any lower.

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PoorMans180SX

Sure, you can go hard on stock knuckles, it's just more fun and exciting when you have big angle. It's a lot easier to learn in an overbuilt car than it is in a stock one.

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mr.nismo.

Thisssss

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lg54

Recently installed Wisefab V1 on s13, on full lock wheels shake, wobble, and go left to right violently. Could this be overcentering? Ackerman setting? I have yet to move the steering rack forward. Have any of you encountered this problem?

PoorMans180SX

Yeah you definitely don't need the outers with those knuckles, they are dropped more than the other knuckles because bumpsteer is different when you're running lower caster.

To me, it sounds like you need to play with the caster adjustment on the lower control arm. Having the lower arm pulled too far forward can do that. Do you know where your static caster is right now?

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TheRealSy90

Definitely overcentering.

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PoorMans180SX

You absolutely need offset spacers or rack forward with wisefab. Also, what do you mean "Go left to right violently"? Are you talking about full lock when you're turning around in a parking lot or when you're drifting?

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lg54

Sorry about that. I mean steering wheel shakes left to right violently while in drift. I do have rack spacers, the ones that come in the Wisefab kit.

240sx_sr20det

A lot easier to learn bad habits...

240sx_sr20det

Agree with these guys. You're definitely over-centering, getting "stuck in the pocket" which is causing the violent shaking/steering chatter.

Wisefab should be able to help you out and give you the list of basic requirements to adequately run WF. Per their website, they sell a kit that moves the rack forward 46mm for better Ackerman curve; see here: https://usa.wisefab.com/nissan-s13-s...relocation-kit

lg54

Thanks for the input.

I?m kinda over dealing with Wisefab. I will probably get rid of my v1 kit.

What would you guys suggest as a complete angle kit to replace Wisefab? I am looking for decent angle and good feel. If possible bolt on without any modifications like steering rack to deal with.

Bleakley

There are a lot of things I learned and picked up going through the process / ranks / power levels that I would not have otherwise picked up from just hopping straight into an LS 240sx with a seriously tuned suspension setup.

mr.nismo.

I have literally everything GK tech except the tie rod setup. It has some serious clearance, even with the rack in the stock location

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240sx_sr20det

I'm a big fan of KISS. Both my R32 (USA Practice Car) & Silvia (Japan Practice Car) run;

B-Knuckle
Stock-length S13 LCA
S14 inner/outer tie-rod
Angled Tension Rods
Rack is in stock location
No over-centering issues with factory bump stops still in place

R32 is:
FRONT
9k Swift Springs
-4.5* Camber
-.20 Toe
Caster pulled as far back as possible without rubbing inner well
GKTech High Clearance Sway Bar

REAR
5k Swift Springs
-2.5* Camber (tire rolls flat on big decel entries with suspension compression)
-.125 toe
OEM Caster Arm
Factory rubber bushings throughout
Factory Sway bar

Base your setup off of the tracks you primarily drive. My home tracks, and favorite Japanese Circuits, are based around snappy, off-throttle, decelerating main corners/inner apexes. A majority, but not all, USA tracks are sweepers and mostly on-throttle. This plays a big role into determining how to set up your car.

Bingo! Crucial fundamental skills are often over-looked and not trained AT ALL. You can usually tell which drivers started in a low-HP, no angle, car and those who hopped right into an "over-built" (relative to their skill level) car. One obvious red-flag is HOW they use their hand-brake.

e30gangsta

^ How does the b knuckle feel upfront with the stock lca length? That's something I would be interested in doing seeing as I do not want want to increase my track width due to my wheel fitment.

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240sx_sr20det

FWIW, I run a 17x8 +15 up front with 30mm for increased scrub.

B-knuckle is snappy. Falls to lock/wants to fall to lock. Have to be handsy with the steering wheel to keep it from going to lock, especially with low caster. Feels more natural than a high caster, 0 ackerman setup, where the car essentially sits on the front end and pivots on the front end.

AND if you couple all that with mismatched tires front & rear (grippy front, not so grippy rear), then you have a seriously front grip biased car - which is fine if you're into sweeper driving and banked corners...

But it's all about BALANCE - car setup shouldn't sway too far from how road-racing cars are setup, IMO. I'd take the R32 to VIR or Road Atlanta anyday and be able to adjust tires pressures and suspension damping and have at it!

Remember, car-setup also depends on what your local tracks are like.

PoorMans180SX

There are a lot of people that say this kind of thing. They downgrade their cars and then are like "I learned so much doing it this way!". You know why? Seat time. Also I never said it had to be a 400hp car. You can learn much quicker and easier in a low power car with a proper suspension than one that has a bunch of compliant bushings. Removing inconsistency is a big factor in learning how to drive properly.

The easiest way to learn bad habits is to learn from people with bad habits. Also, most things people call "bad habits" in drifting are just preferences in people's driving styles.

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240sx_sr20det

It's easy to see, in person and in videos, drivers that are very far off the driving line, driving with bad habits (a correction - hand brake drag- is an error). But, I agree with you - seat time is, and will always be, king. And WHO you learn from is very important as well; you said it perfectly there.

Line consistency is so so important and so overlooked.

Top 5 Essential Mods IMO: 2-way, bucket seat, proper suspension, consistent tires, gauges to monitor vitals. Then....drive your ass off & maintain your car.

Bleakley

Just ordered the GKTech polyurethane subframe conversion bushings for putting s14 subframe into s13.
They came all the same thickness?
Is that how they’re doing it now or is this a mistake?

Edit: Looked on their website shortly after posting this and am thinking I was supposed to buy the shims as well? *shrugs*

2nd Edit: they sent me the previous generation bushings that needed to be used with the shims and couldn’t be flipped depending on useage. Someone from the warehouse is supposed to get in contact with me soon(ish) (next couple days or w/e) for resolution.

TheRealSy90

Welp so much for all that stuff I typed out in my previous post. Nobody cared lol.

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