keada714

Hey guys,

I pretty much have a stock sr20det with a s14 turbo running 9lb. Stock everything else beside a 3" catback. Recently I installed a FMIC with the ssqv on the cold side. Everything runs fine when i'm daily driving my car. The problem rises when i'm at full throttle and around 6000 rpm in 3rd and 4th gear (not sure about 1st or 2nd gear). The rpm will drop but the engine and everything is still on. Feels like i'm hitting the speed limiter. If i get off of the throttle a little I can increase my rpm again. Also, when i'm not at full throttle I can get the engine to redline or so. I also have another problem where my idle dips at a stop after putting my car into neutral. I didn't have any of these problem when i was running the s14 turbo at 9lb with my SMIC. Everything started after I installed the FMIC. Any suggestion and help would be greatly apperiated!

nismoman

boost leak maybe? If thats all you changed then it seems like it would have to be a boost leak. Sounds like its bogging when you try to pressurize the system by stepping on the gas. it wont be as pronounced at partial throttle because you may in vacuum and it may only start to leak bad after a few psi build.

__________________

Fortitude

Vaccum leak def. Try relocating your bov on the hotpipe.

nismoninjagtr

maybe vac leak and/or short can any of your ic pipes make contact with any wires or body while under load? a friend of mine ic rubbed through a single wire and underload grounded it in just the rigth spot to cause if it have no power over 2k...

__________________
4MationD! 90se RB26:build,95pgt KLZE swap:daily,92le vh45 swap planned

keada714

My hot side piping is touching the chassis. I'll try to fix this and hopefully it solves the problem. Thanks for all the other suggestion, how can I check for vaccum leaks? method that would make my life easier? Would the vaccum leak cause my car to bog at full throttle? I can live with the rpm dips but the blog is bugging the hell out of me. Thanks guys!

nismoman

__________________

nismoninjagtr

You can try something that Is flamable to spray around the couplers also just make sure it safe on silicone and listen for any changes in idle rpms fluctuation...

__________________
4MationD! 90se RB26:build,95pgt KLZE swap:daily,92le vh45 swap planned

S14DB

How does this help?

Did this on a friends car and it worked great.

__________________
Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact

nismoninjagtr

[QUOTE=S14DB;3784805] How does this help?

IDK either it being on the hot pipe makes boost laggy from my experience closest to the TB is what i run...

__________________
4MationD! 90se RB26:build,95pgt KLZE swap:daily,92le vh45 swap planned

keada714

alright, i finally got some free time and sunshine in order to try to figure out this problem. I adjust and re tighten all the clamps for my piping as well as fixed the hot side piping that was touching the frame. It still bog and wont let me accelerate when i'm at full throttle. Also there is still the idle dip. I got a video of the idle dipping but not of the bog at full throttle since it is too dangerous, any other suggestion? I will be building that vacuum leak device sometimes this week.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lODiHxTwK9k

st280

Dip could be from bad grounds and/or having the BOV vented to atmosphere, which I'm guessing you probably have.

And I guess bad grounds could be culprit for the WOT thing also.

__________________

nismoman

have you checked the codes?

__________________

keada714

so i checked my grounds and i realized when i relocated my battery to the trunk i removed the ground that was from the intake to the battery tray as well. So I just put a ground there and I took it for a spin. Both problem are still there. when I relocated my batttery I pretty much used 4awg wire from my sound system. I also grounded it to the chassis where there was a pre drill and tapped. The car starts up find and doesn't seem like it struggles to start up. I have yet put a breaker to a fuels on my power line. Should i relocated my ground to the spare tire screw?

Def

Recirculate your BOV. That will fix the idle dipping. It can also help to slightly open (counter clockwise) the screw on the IACV. Just do something small like a 1/4 turn then take it for a drive and see if it's any better. Don't keep cranking it in, but another turn or so could help by increasing the constant bypass air of the IACV.

The speed limiter is right around 6500 RPM in 4th gear IIRC, so that might be that. If it's "cutting out" in 3rd gear, do a boost leak test as other suggested.

__________________
S13 Hatch - Goes around tracks quickly
DEFSPORT

steve shadows

Def is right

also running closer to TB is usually better, the best is the middle of the cold pipe in my experience but makes your piping for recirc insane....

Nice thing about having a real EMS like Haltech is you can play around with idle settings a lot to get make up for a lot of these types of issues, most people don't have serous tuners nearby or experience to do it properly...mechanical systems is usually easiest way to deal with these types of issues in those cases

__________________
Like Me on FaceBook !

keada714

Thanks for all the response. The car seems to be only bogging in fourth now around 6k rpm, so I dont think it is cutting out due to speed limiter. Is there a way to check if your grounds are good? Everything seem to be good to my knowledge. Also does anyone have a picture of the ssqv recirculated on the cold side? I'm a little confused on where I should be recirculating back to. Thanks guys!

S14DB

The Intake between the MAF and the Turbo.

__________________
Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact

keada714

Alright! I have finally found the problem to the so called "bog" it was in fact a vacuum leak right around the intake manifold! The car runs fine now! Just got to recirculate the bov and fix the exhaust leak! Thanks again guys!

keada714

Ah! Going to revive this thread! I have recirculated the bov back in between the maf and turbo. But the darn thing still dips when I throw it into nuetral. Anyone else have any suggestions? Could it be bad wiring from relocating my battery to the trunk? I'm only using 4 gague wire. It starts up fine, even in cold weather!