Apexi NEO Help, Car Stalls at abrupt stop - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Gmillz85 · 10-09-2012, 11:37 AM

So heres my settings on the apexi, tuned by Import Intelligence near West Chester. The car runs beautifully, but to get it to idle stoich (and I cant even get it stoich, it usually idles between 15.1-15.5), I had to richen the fuel delivery at 900rpms to 40+, but this causes a slight problem.

Numbers:
900- Hi-0 Low- +40
1000- Hi-0 Low-0
2000- Hi-0 Low-0
3000- Hi-+6 Low-0
4000- Hi-+5 Low-0
And then 0 for hi and low from 5000-8000.

Runs WOT at 10.5 (rich is fine with me, still pulls like a bat outta hell).

Here lies the dilema. If I need to come to a quick stop, and engage neutral, it floods so rich (10+) that it bogs the motor down, and sometimes stalls if I stop quick enough. Then, it will lean itself out to 18+ before slowly settling to around 15-15.5 at idle. Anyone have some numbers I can run or test out to get her to idle stoich but not flood upon stopping?

Also, who is the best tuner I can go to near Allentown PA to either get the apexi tuned right, or have a new management system installed.

Thanks for any help.

List of mods:
turbonetics t3/t4 .63ar
JGS manifold and external wastegate (10lbs)
3' DP and test pipe
Screamer pipe
blitz bov
550cc injectors
255 lph fuel pump
Apexi intake
z32 MAF
timing retarded 3 degrees

steve shadows · 10-10-2012, 05:29 PM

This is why I'm not a big fan of the AFC, I would check the wiring harness condition where the AFC Is wired up, check for any ratty wires if the wires are just twisted around split off wires with electric tap etc. There is a 'professional' way to install these units using heat wrap and specific t connectors at the very least and most just twist wires together. Not to mention the AFC adds more resistance to your MAF signal wire than it is originally engineered for which on a hot wire map is usually not a good thing especially for the signal input. gl

cotbu · 10-11-2012, 09:05 AM

If the neo's have the decel air function? Set that up. That should eliminate the wanting to stall, when coming to stops.

*fliprayzin240sx* · 10-11-2012, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cotbu

If the neo's have the decel air function? Set that up. That should eliminate the wanting to stall, when coming to stops.

THis or tighten the BOV. Better yet, recirc the damn thing...

Croustibat · 10-12-2012, 02:31 PM

A tune is not about AFRs but about timing. This is where the power is, AFRs have to be spot on of course, but power comes from timing. Retard it 3 degs all around is not the way to go. Using the NEO could be the cause of that... the reason why your engine gets flooded when getting to neutral/idle is the ECU detecting load on the alternator while being in neutral. When it sees that, it revs the engine a bit, but as you did set that thing to send a lot more fuel and the ECU is not aware that there is a NEO, it floods the engine.

You can start by disconnecting your gearbox neutral swith, it may prevent the flood... but really get either a nistune or an EMS, and a proper tune. with 10.5:1 you are bore washing your engine and wasting fuel, and the only reason you feel it pulls hard is mostly because you have too much timing, which will kill your engine. Really, get a proper tune.

Another reason why your engine is bogging is that it does not know there are bigger injectors, with longer latency.

Another reason would be a massive boost leak, which is usually created by nearly every BOV on the market, esp when off throttle: the vacuum becomes to important it pulls the valve open. Recirc it.

I dont know what engine you have, but i know even with a proper tune, idling correctly with a Z32 MAF on a CA18DET is nearly impossible.

As far as the EMS go, you can go the cheap and easy way with a nistune, which works as an easy "unlock" on the OEM ECU and sensors (and it works quite well), or get a new system. Dont fall for the JDM tyte yo "powerFC" and all these, they are mostly outdated and terribly expensive. If you dont know, find a respectable tuner and ask what EMS he uses, and how much it would cost for the EMS, install and tune.

10-09-2012, 11:37 AM	#1
Gmillz85 Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Atizzle Age: 35 Posts: 17 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Apexi NEO Help, Car Stalls at abrupt stop So heres my settings on the apexi, tuned by Import Intelligence near West Chester. The car runs beautifully, but to get it to idle stoich (and I cant even get it stoich, it usually idles between 15.1-15.5), I had to richen the fuel delivery at 900rpms to 40+, but this causes a slight problem. Numbers: 900- Hi-0 Low- +40 1000- Hi-0 Low-0 2000- Hi-0 Low-0 3000- Hi-+6 Low-0 4000- Hi-+5 Low-0 And then 0 for hi and low from 5000-8000. Runs WOT at 10.5 (rich is fine with me, still pulls like a bat outta hell). Here lies the dilema. If I need to come to a quick stop, and engage neutral, it floods so rich (10+) that it bogs the motor down, and sometimes stalls if I stop quick enough. Then, it will lean itself out to 18+ before slowly settling to around 15-15.5 at idle. Anyone have some numbers I can run or test out to get her to idle stoich but not flood upon stopping? Also, who is the best tuner I can go to near Allentown PA to either get the apexi tuned right, or have a new management system installed. Thanks for any help. List of mods: turbonetics t3/t4 .63ar JGS manifold and external wastegate (10lbs) 3' DP and test pipe Screamer pipe blitz bov 550cc injectors 255 lph fuel pump Apexi intake z32 MAF timing retarded 3 degrees

10-10-2012, 05:29 PM	#2
steve shadows Post Whore! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: LA and OC Posts: 8,202 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	This is why I'm not a big fan of the AFC, I would check the wiring harness condition where the AFC Is wired up, check for any ratty wires if the wires are just twisted around split off wires with electric tap etc. There is a 'professional' way to install these units using heat wrap and specific t connectors at the very least and most just twist wires together. Not to mention the AFC adds more resistance to your MAF signal wire than it is originally engineered for which on a hot wire map is usually not a good thing especially for the signal input. gl __________________ Like Me on FaceBook !

10-11-2012, 09:05 AM	#3
cotbu Post Whore! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SWFL Age: 47 Posts: 3,318 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	If the neo's have the decel air function? Set that up. That should eliminate the wanting to stall, when coming to stops. __________________ LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

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10-12-2012, 02:31 PM	#5
Croustibat Nissanaholic! Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: France - Toulouse Age: 41 Posts: 1,851 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	A tune is not about AFRs but about timing. This is where the power is, AFRs have to be spot on of course, but power comes from timing. Retard it 3 degs all around is not the way to go. Using the NEO could be the cause of that... the reason why your engine gets flooded when getting to neutral/idle is the ECU detecting load on the alternator while being in neutral. When it sees that, it revs the engine a bit, but as you did set that thing to send a lot more fuel and the ECU is not aware that there is a NEO, it floods the engine. You can start by disconnecting your gearbox neutral swith, it may prevent the flood... but really get either a nistune or an EMS, and a proper tune. with 10.5:1 you are bore washing your engine and wasting fuel, and the only reason you feel it pulls hard is mostly because you have too much timing, which will kill your engine. Really, get a proper tune. Another reason why your engine is bogging is that it does not know there are bigger injectors, with longer latency. Another reason would be a massive boost leak, which is usually created by nearly every BOV on the market, esp when off throttle: the vacuum becomes to important it pulls the valve open. Recirc it. I dont know what engine you have, but i know even with a proper tune, idling correctly with a Z32 MAF on a CA18DET is nearly impossible. As far as the EMS go, you can go the cheap and easy way with a nistune, which works as an easy "unlock" on the OEM ECU and sensors (and it works quite well), or get a new system. Dont fall for the JDM tyte yo "powerFC" and all these, they are mostly outdated and terribly expensive. If you dont know, find a respectable tuner and ask what EMS he uses, and how much it would cost for the EMS, install and tune.