Krooked

Hi so before posting this I have done A lot of research beforehand and can't find anything to diagnose my problem. So here I go:

I first started having a slipping clutch a month back and needed a new flywheel/disc/cover/pp with an ebay (please dont hurt me for doing this, i was ignorant.) all replaced properly. While I did this I went ahead and got brand new slave and clutch master cylinders. I also deleted the damper and ran the line to the slave.

The clutch was fine for a while until it started slipping AGAIN. Got it looked at by a professional Japan import mechanic and he played with the pedal and checked my work. Worked fine for a day or two and then started slipping again.

Now, when I start the car cold and drive, the clutch will grab fine but after 10-15 min it will slowly start to slip. Verry frustrating....

Another piece of info, when I have the car stopped, the car stalls normally in second and third gear when I tried seeing if the clutch was slipping 100%.

My thoughts are:
-eBay clutch is shit (only has 400mi on it though..)
-Stripped transmission gears? Could the fluid get hot and thicken to the point it doesn't want to connect fully? I hear no grinding so this is unlikely.
-bad differential connection? Again I don't think it's likely because its a welded diff. I also have an open one to throw in if you guys think it's the diff. :/
- bad driveshaft-transmission connection.
-idk my car hates me and doesn't want me to drive it -____-


If I end up replacing the clutch I would get a competition clutch stage 3 white bunny special 6puck. Thoughts on this? I would also replace the hard line with a SS line.

I would really appreciate any help guys. :/ ive done my research but still can't figure it out.

joe3180

maybe it wasn't broken in right. he checked your work as in took the tranny/pressure plate off and looked at it? maybe too much grease, rear seal leaking. could just be the clutch is crap. and you bled the clutch lines?

just throwing stuff out there that wasn't mentioned. Maybe something sounds like it could be right. Good luck with your problem.

Krooked

Yeah everything was bled at least 10 times with new fluid. but yeah I had him drop the tranny and inspect, not take apart the clutch asy.

So this could be because the clutch might not have been broken in correctly?

jr_ss

It would help to know what motor set we are working with and what power levels you are running.

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My SR20VET

Krooked

Stock ka24de
Ngk spark plug covers
3in exhaust

~155hp to the wheels. :/

Krooked

1998 240sx se Kouki

Mikester

If you take it apart and there isn't oil & stuff all over the flywheel causing it to slip, then I'd wonder if your sleeve/bearing length is not correct. Sounds to me like the clutch sleeve is too long for the clutch kit you are using... keeping it in a state of semi-disengagement once the disk material wears off. If I were you, I'd inquire to the seller and ask if there is a particular sleeve/bearing you should be using w/that kit.

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Krooked

Well since it was eBay... I plan to just get a new clutch, that white
Bunny special? But when I dropped
The tranny again there was no oil or liquid causing the clutch to slip. What part exactly are you talking about the sleeve/bearing? Do you mean the pivot ball for the fork?

Krooked

Just looked it up, you mean the whole sleeve clutch release asy? If that's so it came with the kit...

jr_ss

Yes he is referring to the TOB sleeve. Spend the extra money and buy an Exedy stg1

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silviaks2nr

Get a quality OEM replacement disk and pressure plate and it will likely solve your problems.

Krooked

Your sure its the clutch? If so, I've heard exedy, act, and competition are all good clutches. I need to look for something that will be good until I engine swap. I've also heard os giken makes some mean parts.

For plans on swapping in let's say, a year, what clutch/flywheel combination would be the best bang for buck?

Krooked

The thing is I've replaced everything, tob flywheel plate and disc. This is why I was leaning towards that white bunny from competition clutch:
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...2-Upgrade.html
Comes with a new tob and I would get some stainless steel lines. Thoughts? I mean white bunny is very close to own, it's just not oem 240sx parts.

silviaks2nr

I use a dxd racing clutch in my car and I love the oem feel but that at the same time it's holding 400+ft/lbs. They used to be much more budget friendly clutches but still aren't too terribly priced. South Bend Clutch - Dodge clutch kits and Kevlar Pilot Brgs. Dnya Max Clutch Kits for high performance.

Krooked

When it comes to clutches, since I have a stock ka, I put down around 160 ft/lbs at 6000rpm. Does that mean I can only run clutches matching my power output or can I go higher for better grabbing and clutch kicking?

silviaks2nr

The type of clutch disk and pressure plate matter more than the amount of torque it can hold in that case. If you are drifting you need something that grabs really hard, it doesn't have to hold a lot of power though if you plan to stay in that power range.

Krooked

Alright that answers my question. So the disc is where it really comes into place I assume. 6 puck?

Mikester

'Best bang for the buck' depends on the swap you are doing... and your budget.

I run an OS Giken twin plate... but I don't drift. If I DID drift, I wouldn't do it on a $1700 clutch that would have to be rebuilt once (or more) a season.... with the rebuild kit at a cost of $1000. I would get a good kit that holds 100 or so more ft/lbs than I am making and call it a day.

I wasn't talking about the TOB if that's what you said you replaced... I was referring to the CLUTCH SLEEVE that the TOB actually presses onto:

Nissan 30501-K0404 OEM Clutch Release Sleeve- SR20DET/ VG30/(S13) KA

Some aftermarket clutch kits require different length sleeves.

If you're drifting, you want a clutch that will hold 50-100 ft/lbs more than you are making to ensure solid engagement...

I personally am not a fan of 'multi-puck- clutch plates; but I am not an expert mechanic or clutch theory guru...

On that note, my theory, just like brakes... is that the more surface area of the flywheel in contact with the clutch disc(s), the better.

I don't think you need a new clutch, I think you need to figure out why the one you have isn't working.

As far as purchasing it on Ebay- it's not THAT big of a deal... Plenty of decent kits out there for the budget drifting community. Yea we will give you shit about 'getting what you paid for' but at the same time we're here to help.

I still think either something is not adjusted correctly, or the sleeve needs to be shorter. Seriously think you should contact the seller instead of spend MORE money on something you may not need right now.

BUT, if you're dead-set on just getting a new kit altogether, then listen to jr_ss and get an Exedy Stage 1... That kit is PROVEN, and will set you up for a while to come.

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jr_ss

You always want something that will hold more than what you are making...

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Krooked

Thanks for the help guys!! Really informative and helped a lot!! I'll let you guys know what it is when I figure it out!

Mikester

touche sir

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Krooked

Did some more research and found that there's a big difference in aluminum flywheels and steel flywheels. Since I'm running stock, and have an aluminum flywheel, could this be causing it to slip because the aluminum likes to "spin" more and quicker? And resist the clamp from the pressure plate?

boneout

If the problem isnt in the releace bearing it could be the pressure or clutch being glazed and when it heats up it turns almost like glass just like crap brake pads when u break them in hard and even if u took them apart u wouldnt be able to for sure diagnose it.

MamangSorbetero

Another is pedal travel. You adjust the pedal height first per factory service manual specifications. Then bleed it. The right amount of fluid needs to be pushed out of the clutch master cylinder; it is essential for proper pressure plate operation. Your pedal can cause the pressure plate not to engage the disk completely due to incorrect pedal height or bleeding procedure.

A throwout bearing installed incorrectly will also cause this. Backwards installation, uneven seating on the release sleeve, etc. A broken pivot ball, bent clutch fork or broken assembly springs can also do this.

Improper transmission assembly can also do this. You could have installed the transmission at an angle, causing the disk to warp. Another one would be that the eBay clutch is just pure shit in terms of quality. Too many variables to consider.

PureRush

How about you take out your clutch/flywheel/pressure plate and post pics