GripSpec

Have an extra diff that i'd like to weld and I'm in the process of taking the diff apart. I have done a good amount of searching on this site and others and still can't quite figure out the procedure to remove the output shafts. Most of the threads indicate to just pry or bang them out but I thought there was some type of clip holding them in that must be removed beforehand? I don't see any clips in plain sight though. Thanks for the help!

nismolvr

take a pry bar to them and they will separate,the clip is on the splines ,you will see it once you pry them out,dont give up .I too had the same question ,I found out for myself.Pry away my friend...

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93nismo

its all in the fsm. id send it to you but i dont know how(im dumb) i cant remember the site i got it from, im sure if you search for it on here ul find it pretty easy. i know the diff is in it. its smart to have the fsm anyway, so handy :]

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WTB: 1/24 scale chuki s13 model.

omgRWDgoodness!

Just take a rubber mallet and bang em outta there, that's what I did.

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GripSpec

Thanks for the quick help guys! Looks like I need to man up and pry harder!


As far as reinstallation goes, are the clips integrated into the output shafts to where you can just use a rubber mallet to tap the shafts back into the diff which in turn seats them back into the clips? Or do the clips fall off the end of the shafts as they are removed and a different procedure is involved to reinstall the clips after the shafts are replaced?

Def

Occasionally you'll get one that takes the clip out with it. In that case, grab a 5 lb sledge and wail away - it'll take quite a bit of banging to get it out(but it will come out and reinstall with difficulty).

About 80-90% of the ones you remove take nothing more than a few good hits with a deadblow/rubber mallet.

I would suggest against prying, as it can deform the inner ridge of the output shafts(it's brass it looks like). I think they're kind of like a loose dust shield to keep crap away from the output shaft seals.

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S13 Hatch - Goes around tracks quickly
DEFSPORT

s14unimog

there is a groove machined into the output shafts that partially retain the c-clips holding the shafts in. When you go to reinstall them, they'll expand as the shaft slides in and spring back in once they reach the corresponding groove on the shaft. It should take much effort to put them back in. The hard part about getting them out is just that clip expanding. Make sure they are still seated correctly before you reinstall the shafts.


As for the welded diff part, if you plan to use the plate idea make sure you don't put the plate too low in the spider gears; otherwise you won't be able to get the output shafts back in and you're out a carrier.

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Fu*king ginger bread man stole my wallet...

SHIFTlock_slide to side

d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

Def

I don't think the clips are supposed to pull out with the shafts - most don't. They come out and go back easy without the clips in the output shafts(clip stays in the diff). If the clip comes out with the shaft you've got your work cut out for you. Just man up and hit it with a 5 lb sledge about 50 times and it's good.

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S13 Hatch - Goes around tracks quickly
DEFSPORT

s14unimog

^ yeah you're right, they do stay in the diff.

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Fu*king ginger bread man stole my wallet...

SHIFTlock_slide to side

d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

Def

Some don't, and that's when you've got to put the purse down. Otherwise they come out easily.

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S13 Hatch - Goes around tracks quickly
DEFSPORT

BMXer91331

hammer the shit out of the shafts yul see how easy it is, the clips (38225) generaly stay in. if they come out its a lil tricky to put them back in (yul figure it out a long thin screw driver and another tool of your choice can help) and in very rare cases they break. but for the most part its an easy hammer out and hammer in (rubber malet) i usually use a regular hammer but some people like to be careful. when you take them out an look inside (with a flashlight usually) you will have an OHHHHH shi* no wonder momment (easy!). now after that youl want to take the actual diferential out thats tricky after you remove the 4 bolts and c claps (38310). the easyest way i found was to grab the whole differential upside down putting some bricks under it on the edge with a towel on them so you dont f*ck up your diff's face where the cover joins it. whith the face that joins the cover on it on the bricks you pick it up about 2-3 inches and drop it lol (a lot will disagree with this method). make sure you have a bunch of towels or something to catch your diff when it falls out you dont want anything to hit a hard surface. sometimes it takes 2 or maybe even 3 genttle drops. that has been my fastes way of taking the stuborn diff out....... take pictures of the spacers if its your first time !!!!!! they are different sizes and go in different places... on this picture they are number 38453 and 38454 to put them back in, in the same location. i found that if you put the 2 on one side then the other one you put the c clamp (38310) over it and gently tap it in is the easyest for me. then you hammer the shafts back in (not in the picture) then you bolt the B*tch back up. another thing is.... now this is true if you dont have a vice you wil have a hell of a time (hell of a time stands for a lot of derogatory descriptive language) taking the ring gear out and all the 38102's bolts.... i dont have a vice and ive set up my own tricky method but either way its a hell of an experience haha those bolts are freken on there good like 100lb/ft (what ever) of torque. make sure to put locktite when you put them back in!!!!! anyone is welcomed to correct me im no pro at this, this is simply my opinion of what has worked the best for me.
here is the link to download a few FSM manuals both JDM and USDM extremely helpful you are sure to find your car there Free Downloadable Factory Service Manuals (FSM) - S-Chassis.com


the list of numbers and names of this picture found on Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Differential Both (LSD & Open)



009312121A
240SX PLUG-FILLE
081240251E
240SX BOLT HEX

0832061210
240SX SCREW

38000J
240SX PLUG-RUBBER

38100
240SX GEAR SET-FINAL DRIVE

38102
240SX BOLT-DRIVE GEAR

38120
240SX BEARING-DRIVE PINION,REAR

38125
240SX WASHER-ADJUST,DRIVE PINION BEARING

38140
240SX BEARING-DRIVE PINION,FRONT

38154
240SX WASHER-ADJUST,DRIVE PINION

38165
240SX SPACER-DRIVE PINION BEARING

38189
240SX SEAL-OIL,DRIVE PINION

38210
240SX FLANGE ASSY-COMPANION

38210A
240SX NUT-DRIVE PINION

38225
240SX CIRCLIP-SIDE GEAR

38300
240SX FINAL DRIVE ASSY

38300M
240SX FINAL DRIVE ASSY,W/EAL SENSOR

38310
240SX CARRIER COMPL-GEAR

38310A
240SX BOLT-BEARING CAP

38320
240SX GASKET-GEAR CARRIER

38322A
240SX HOSE-BREATHER

38322B
240SX CLAMP-BREATHER HOSE

38322C
240SX CLIP-BREATHER HOSE

38323M
240SX CONNECTOR-BREATHER

38342
240SX SEAL-OIL,DIFFERENTIAL SIDE

38351
240SX COVER-REAR,FINAL DRIVE

38351A
240SX BOLT-REAR COVER

38351C
240SX STUD

38351F
240SX PLUG-DRAIN

38351G
240SX BREATHER

38420M
240SX DIFFERENTIAL ASSY-VISCOUS

38421
240SX CASE-DIFFERENTIAL

38421S
240SX CASE SET-DIFFERENTIAL

38423
240SX GEAR-SIDE

38424
240SX WASHER-THRUST,SIDE GEAR

38424+A
240SX WASHER-THRUST,SIDE GEAR

38425
240SX PINION-MATE

38426
240SX WASHER-THRUST,PINION MATE

38427
240SX SHAFT-PINION MATE

38427A
240SX PIN-LOCK,PINION SHAFT

38440
240SX BEARING-DIFFERENTIAL SIDE

38453
240SX SHIM-ADJUST,SIDE BEARING

38454
240SX SPACER-DIFFERENTIAL SIDE

GripSpec

Cool that really explains it. Thanks for all the help, especially BMXer for all of that detail. I had it in my mind that once you got the output shafts out, that the whole diff would just lift out with ease. I guess I was mistaken! Thanks for the explanation!

BMXer91331

No prob man
yeah its on there with some pressure because of the spacers so if you turn it upside down and hit it on the edge of the pumkin so the diff doesnt hit, just the pumkis edge does. the weight of the diferential (pretty heavy) helps to make it slip out when the pumkin suddenly stops the diffs momentum and weight brings it out. but like i said all the spacers come falling out too so make sure you know wich one goes where. i set up a set (2 bricks) of bricks on one side of the diff and another on the other edge right below where the shaft holes are. and the actual ring gear will sit about 2 inches from the ground hanging so when you tap it (drop it) it only falls 2 inces onto that towel or old shirts or what ever you so chose to cushion the 2 inch drop haha. i had to invent my own techniques cause i didnt have internet at the time so i didnt reserch it lol. but it was an over all a really fun experience. also the nuts that hold the diff cover to the frame where a b*tch without the perfect size socket (19mm or 3/4)... too small and it doesnt reach all the way in. too long and it hits the bottom of your trunk on the s14 so i hammered my trunk in a tiny bit on the edge to use a long 19mm socket. A long breaker bar is essential too i believe. before all this droping i actually used a pry bar to yank it out but the diff spins in the pumkin so i said f-it im just gonna let it fall out lol. i havent tried this but maybe if you hold it off the ground and have some one tap the pumking while its upside down the vibration and wheight will make it fall out. its easy after you do the whole process 2 or 3 times like me lol. i wish i had pictures to show u haha youl be taking off differentials and putting them back together in 30 minutes lol. first time takes a couple of hours. here is my attemt of explaining my crappy picture. with the shafts and 4 bolts that hold the differentiall in This doesnt work if its still bolted into the pumkin or the shafts are still in the diferential!!!!!!!!! place the differential on the bricks so it stands up just on the edges (place some rags or a towel so its soft or use something other than bricks like a thick piece of wood) now make sure the differential ring gear is about 2-4 inches from touching the ground and the towel or shirt thats going to prevent it from hitting the ground hard and messing up your ring gear. now pick it up and drop it on the bricks and your differential should move down or fall out since nothing is holding it but the presure of the spacers. heres my picture enjoy

articdragon192

Slide hammer is the easiest way to remove them.

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jacob240sx

Hey can someone post a diagram like the s14 one for a s13 diff or are they the same?

QuickSpoolSR

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I banged mine out today and one of the clips on the longer shaft came out with it, it looks kind of loose on there, do I just shove it back in with the clip on it?

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