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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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04-22-2009, 08:05 AM | #6 |
Nissanaholic!
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With 10w-30 I am at roughly 60-70 psi at startup (cold oil) at idle (800 rpm).
Once warmed up, goes down to 25 psi at idle, then like 50 psi when crusiing at 3500 RPM, then around 60-70 psi when I get on it.
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04-22-2009, 08:17 AM | #9 |
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yeah thats pretty low oil pressure. Stop running your car, replace the oil pump before your destroy your engine.
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04-22-2009, 04:22 PM | #11 |
Zilvia Junkie
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actually the FSM says over 11psi @ idle when car is at normal operating temperature. (Coolant temp around 200F)
if your oil psi is 12-15, your are within factory spec. if it dips below 11, id replace the pump. Service manual ftw.
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04-22-2009, 09:37 PM | #13 | |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Quote:
Again, I dont personally trust anything less than 1 bar at idle. That shit is too low in my opinion to get pressure up to the cams. |
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04-23-2009, 09:59 AM | #16 |
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04-23-2009, 10:18 AM | #17 |
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Do you have an oil temp gauge? I do.
Temps in the oil pan rarely got over 160 deg F on the street with no oil cooler. Now I have an oil cooler and a thermostat for track usage(temps were up around the 250+ deg F range on the track with backing off some), and they're even cooler due to leakage around the thermostat. |
04-23-2009, 10:19 AM | #18 | |
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Oil temps and water temps are two entirely different things in a motor, and they rarely follow each other's behavior very closely as you drive on the street. |
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04-23-2009, 10:23 AM | #19 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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My temps, daily driving, average 190-200F. No oil cooler. Coolant temp is around 200F. No idea how your oil temp is so low. What water temps are you seeing?
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04-23-2009, 10:39 AM | #21 |
Leaky Injector
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Water temp is directly related to oil temp for normal street driving. Oil temps will be slightly cooler than coolant temps. You don't need 20w50 in an SR. Run 10w30 or 10w40.
Also if you get rod knock with 20w50, then you had other problems... -oil starvation -oil temp to hot (not the oils fault you don't have an oil cooler) |
04-23-2009, 07:29 PM | #22 | |
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well i didnt realize you were talking about oil temp. no i dont have an oil temp gauge. all of my sr's ive had have run on the hot side of coolant temp though no matter how i drive 'em. |
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04-23-2009, 08:12 PM | #23 | |
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My oil temps never go over 200 deg F on the track now even in really hot weather with a custom oil cooler, it's awesome. |
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04-23-2009, 09:38 PM | #24 |
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Do you happen to know what kind of clearances the machine shop went with when rebuilding your motor ie. main's and rod's? If they made these clearances on the high side then you are going to see a little less oil pressure then what is to be expected. I personally think that the oil weight you are running is a little high but you might have to run that if they set your clearances loose. Have you pulled your valve cover to see if your cams are showing any signs of scoring or anything? If they dont then you should be getting plenty of oil to the valve train. Plus the holes in the oil lines over the cams are rather large so just cause you dont have high pressure doesnt mean you aren't getting plenty of oil up top. Just keep a close eye on your pressure over the next couple days while you are driving around and be sure to check your oil to see if there is any particles of metal. As long as it doesnt go down or have any crazy fluctuations while driving then I would say your oil pump is fine. In all honesty though if you spent the money to rebuild the motor you should always spend a little extra for a new oil pump. You never know what these motors have been put through prior to you owning it. Just my 2 cents.
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04-23-2009, 10:58 PM | #25 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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I was running 10-40W, when my pressure started dropping, I was sitting 95-100 for water temp and 105 ish for oil (yah I was beating the living piss out of it). 120-30 is the zone that most oil starts breaking down.
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