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Old 04-21-2009, 11:13 PM   #1
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Help what should be my oil psi sr20det

Help what should be my oil psi on my sr20det thanks guys
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Old 04-21-2009, 11:17 PM   #2
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cold start? warm idle? WOT?

what weight oil are you running?

a lot more information would be useful
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Old 04-22-2009, 07:19 AM   #3
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warm idle with 20w 50 , I have 12-15psi how does that sound to you guys ?
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Old 04-22-2009, 07:49 AM   #4
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1 bar when its warm and thick oil? Sound kinda low. What's your idle at?
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:01 AM   #5
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it's at like 750
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:05 AM   #6
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With 10w-30 I am at roughly 60-70 psi at startup (cold oil) at idle (800 rpm).

Once warmed up, goes down to 25 psi at idle, then like 50 psi when crusiing at 3500 RPM, then around 60-70 psi when I get on it.
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:12 AM   #7
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so then 12 - 15 psi at idle is bad I just rebuild the motor but I did not put a new oil pump on it so what should I do go and get a new one or is this one good ?
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:15 AM   #8
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o ya and it's been hot here too
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:17 AM   #9
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yeah thats pretty low oil pressure. Stop running your car, replace the oil pump before your destroy your engine.
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Old 04-22-2009, 11:22 AM   #10
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ok on my way to buy a new one thanks guys
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Old 04-22-2009, 04:22 PM   #11
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actually the FSM says over 11psi @ idle when car is at normal operating temperature. (Coolant temp around 200F)

if your oil psi is 12-15, your are within factory spec. if it dips below 11, id replace the pump.

Service manual ftw.
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:38 PM   #12
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why 20-50 thats a little to thick. new engine is 5w-30 or 10w-30
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Old 04-22-2009, 09:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by georgesal View Post
why 20-50 thats a little to thick. new engine is 5w-30 or 10w-30
Cuz SRs run hot. The hotter the engine is the thinner your oil gets. I was running 10-40W when I got rod knocks last year. Oil thinned out and pressure dropped.

Again, I dont personally trust anything less than 1 bar at idle. That shit is too low in my opinion to get pressure up to the cams.
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:00 PM   #14
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SRs run very cold on the street no matter how hard you drive.
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:56 AM   #15
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Quote:
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SRs run very cold on the street no matter how hard you drive.

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Old 04-23-2009, 09:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
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SRs run very cold on the street no matter how hard you drive.
For a few weeks i was driving without a fan and I never overheated while driving around town.
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:18 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aNskY View Post
Do you have an oil temp gauge? I do.

Temps in the oil pan rarely got over 160 deg F on the street with no oil cooler.

Now I have an oil cooler and a thermostat for track usage(temps were up around the 250+ deg F range on the track with backing off some), and they're even cooler due to leakage around the thermostat.
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:19 AM   #18
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For a few weeks i was driving without a fan and I never overheated while driving around town.
That's not what I'm talking about, and that's not very smart.

Oil temps and water temps are two entirely different things in a motor, and they rarely follow each other's behavior very closely as you drive on the street.
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:23 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Def View Post
Do you have an oil temp gauge? I do.

Temps in the oil pan rarely got over 160 deg F on the street with no oil cooler.

Now I have an oil cooler and a thermostat for track usage(temps were up around the 250+ deg F range on the track with backing off some), and they're even cooler due to leakage around the thermostat.
I have a temp gauge aswell.

My temps, daily driving, average 190-200F. No oil cooler.

Coolant temp is around 200F.

No idea how your oil temp is so low. What water temps are you seeing?
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:36 AM   #20
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my oil pressure is at 80 psi on cold startup (winter) and like 60-70 (summer). then at operating temp its between 17-20
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:39 AM   #21
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Water temp is directly related to oil temp for normal street driving. Oil temps will be slightly cooler than coolant temps. You don't need 20w50 in an SR. Run 10w30 or 10w40.

Also if you get rod knock with 20w50, then you had other problems...
-oil starvation
-oil temp to hot (not the oils fault you don't have an oil cooler)
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Old 04-23-2009, 07:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Def View Post
Do you have an oil temp gauge? I do.

Temps in the oil pan rarely got over 160 deg F on the street with no oil cooler.

Now I have an oil cooler and a thermostat for track usage(temps were up around the 250+ deg F range on the track with backing off some), and they're even cooler due to leakage around the thermostat.


well i didnt realize you were talking about oil temp. no i dont have an oil temp gauge. all of my sr's ive had have run on the hot side of coolant temp though no matter how i drive 'em.
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:12 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackej7 View Post
I have a temp gauge aswell.

My temps, daily driving, average 190-200F. No oil cooler.

Coolant temp is around 200F.

No idea how your oil temp is so low. What water temps are you seeing?
I have a GReddy pan, so that helps with cooling some. But my water temps average 176(thermostat opening, stock) to 185 on the street. It never gets over 190-195 on the track. Nothing special, just a Koyo aluminum radiator and dual 12" Flex-a-Lite fans I only run in traffic. A vented hood and proper radiator ducting help.

My oil temps never go over 200 deg F on the track now even in really hot weather with a custom oil cooler, it's awesome.
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:38 PM   #24
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Do you happen to know what kind of clearances the machine shop went with when rebuilding your motor ie. main's and rod's? If they made these clearances on the high side then you are going to see a little less oil pressure then what is to be expected. I personally think that the oil weight you are running is a little high but you might have to run that if they set your clearances loose. Have you pulled your valve cover to see if your cams are showing any signs of scoring or anything? If they dont then you should be getting plenty of oil to the valve train. Plus the holes in the oil lines over the cams are rather large so just cause you dont have high pressure doesnt mean you aren't getting plenty of oil up top. Just keep a close eye on your pressure over the next couple days while you are driving around and be sure to check your oil to see if there is any particles of metal. As long as it doesnt go down or have any crazy fluctuations while driving then I would say your oil pump is fine. In all honesty though if you spent the money to rebuild the motor you should always spend a little extra for a new oil pump. You never know what these motors have been put through prior to you owning it. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:58 PM   #25
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I was running 10-40W, when my pressure started dropping, I was sitting 95-100 for water temp and 105 ish for oil (yah I was beating the living piss out of it). 120-30 is the zone that most oil starts breaking down.
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:11 PM   #26
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I run 10w30 synthetic on the track all day and seems fine, am i lucky?
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