Rico21r

Ka24e

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Rico21r

Alright, I just checked the fuel pump, its running strong so thats not the issue.
It's still just turning over.
It's probably a spark issue I'm thinking?

mechanicalmoron

Well they do go bad, and they can stick open. That makes sense with his rich setting.

They're just on que to go at this age, and they do. The o-ring problem is usually actually a consequence of someone changing a bad injector out, but not lubing the new o-ring, so it tears. but they can also just get old and leak, maybe a bad one got in from the factory that failed faster, etc.

But yeah, it's not the head gasket....

You can check the codes without it turning on, like I told you to.... the only tool you need is a few screwdrivers and maybe a little socket or something to get the ecu out. (then if you want to make it easier in the future, drill a hole in the top face of your ecu, and mount the screw there, so you can use it without removing the whole damn ecu)

You should listen to see if your fuel pump primes, and especially if you can't hear it, get a pressure gauge, a little cheap-o inline diagnostic one. Splice it in by the fuel filter, turn the key to on, and see, you should have 44 psi. Once it's running, it should drop to 34 or something, as the pressure regulator is vaccum operated.

*edit* if you think it's a spark issue, have someone turn it over while you pull a plug boot - it should arc if you hold it near the head, like a quarter inch away, every time that cylinder should be firing. If it's not, inspect the cap/rotor, and make sure the coil is sparking.

If you do have spark, have someone else turn it over, while you listen to the injectors, to make sure they're firing - you can also put a finger on them and feel the click, or put a screwdriver on them and listen to the handle.

Rico21r

Yeah, I checked the codes already, It just flashed with a #1...
Like one flash and four seconds later one flash, and so on and so forth. I don't get it because it's not saying 11 and thats the lowest the codes go..

Also, I can hear the fuel pump running strong, and popped off the line after the fuel filter and primed it and it just dumps gas so I dont think its a problem with that.

Also when I crank, I smell gas so If the pump is bad than I'd be suprised.


To address your edit;
Yeah I was just about to try to do that with a buddy but he went to do something so Once I do it i'll get back to you with the results!

future

Just cause it gets gas doesn't mean much. You need to check the pressure. And i can't believe you have not checked for Spark. Are we serious?

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Rico21r

okay, did the engine block spark test and the plugs wouldnt get spark, so now I have to go deeper.
It's probably the ignition coil then, right?

Rico21r

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3qy...e_gdata_player here's a video

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kruked

Take a video of you checking the ECU for codes.

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I like my bikes how I like my b¡tches...naked!
2014 Triumph Street Triple

Rico21r

I did, it pulled a 55

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kruked

Take a video and post it here. First you state that you were getting a code of one digit and that one digit being the number "1". It's a possibility that it was code "11", which would make sense since you don't have spark.

Take the video and post it, please.

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I like my bikes how I like my b¡tches...naked!
2014 Triumph Street Triple

Rico21r

I literally just took it, it was 55

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starplatnumm

can u look at the battery post and clean off the oxidation? not sure if it was mentioned before but looking at the video it sounded like it wasn't grounded right.

Rico21r

Yeah I'll try that in a minute

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starplatnumm

check the ignition coil. loose wires. there are all types of ignition setups. but having loose connections or loose wires may cause to heat up wires. when ever theres a problem having to do with weather changes usually a module or a resistor needs replacing. been a long time with the KA24e's.

Han

lol that's the last thing you'd want to see if your car isnt starting. sounds like you accidentally cleared all your codes. unless there was already no cel when your car died. test the terminals going to the coil and if that's good test your coil. if both are good i'd guess it's a loose connection somewhere. fiddle around with them and clean all the grounds. probably wont fix it but doesnt hurt to try. battery sounds dead also but im guessing thats from you cranking it over a lot

starplatnumm

yes because if he drove for like 30 mins to his sister's house it would have charged by then. but accourding to the video the battery gave up meaning that the battery terminals weren't fully contact due to the oxidation.

Han

i never said it was not from oxidation. figured he would have noticed if it was oxidized by now but maybe not. i was just thinking he might have been trying to start it multiple times and drained the battery that's all. dont know where you got that impression from

starplatnumm

true, was reading the previous posts. misread the time stamp..

Rico21r

Yeah it put a strain on the battery, I'm going to get a buddy to charge mine up then I'm going to run a compression test tomorrow and see what I get.

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future

What the flying fuck does a compression check have to do with a engine with no spark? Am I missing something

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Rico21r

No, just doing it because I need to.

Rico21r

1 -72psi
2 -25psi
3 can't screw on hose tight enough on this one.
4 -25psi

Oh boy, something is bad.
Compression test results

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kruked

If the battery is close to being dead, then you're going to have low compression, very low compression. And just out of curiosity, did you pull all of the spark plugs when you attempted the compression test?


To the other members following this thread, is it me, or does it seem like no one is getting through this brick wall?

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I like my bikes how I like my b¡tches...naked!
2014 Triumph Street Triple

Rico21r

Nope battery is fully charged and yes they were all pulled.

And yeah man that brick wall, ooh

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Han

lol who's to say the hose wasnt on right for the other cylinders? try a wet compression test maybe? just to be sure its not the rings which i really doubt. or maybe your a/f was fucked up and started burning up valves. or the most likely cause, you warped the head after over heating. have fun with that

mechanicalmoron

Also, hold the pedal down/throttle wide, while testing compression.

Are you SURE it's a good battery? Looks like you started good, and went downhill on the test, as it got more worn. Could the whole thing be a bad spark, from a dying alternator that can't get enough juice back into the battery?

But, if you can't get better compression numbers out of it somehow, start looking for a motor - if those are the real numbers, it's beyond toast.

You may have been using the wrong adaptor for the hose, and it may have been feeling like it screwed in, but it was only really crossing the threads and then jamming tight and feeling in, cause it should have screwed into all of them with no real problem - plug threads are not tricky (for obvious reasons).

future

He lost me at doing a compression check when his first problem was no spark lol

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dallasb53

because its easier to just ask questions, get answers and never act on it.

thats my guess, anyways.

dallasb53

pull your spark plugs one at a time, fill the cylinder with water(make sure its at bdc) then put your compression tester on it and fire it up. should fix your problem asap