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07-20-2004, 02:19 PM | #1 |
OMNOMNOMNOM
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KA Power Steering Removal/Water Pump Belt Question?
I figured I would start another thread for this simply because there were the same people posting in my last thread about power steering removal. While it was very informative I couldn’t seems to get this last problem answered.
I know I can keep my Power Steering pump/pulley in place and use it as an idler pulley for the water pump but my goal is to remove the weight along with ditching the PS, so I see no purpose to keep it there. Would there be ill effects if I ran a custom belt from the crank pulley to the water pump pulley? If that is safe is there any way I can get a custom belt made, and where might that be? I know I could run a electric water pump... but I don’t think anyone has located one for the KA DOHC, if someone knows of one please let me know. This would be a last case scenario considering the cost of electric water pumps. Any help, suggestion, ideas!? Thanks all! Here is my last thread for reference. http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=54728 |
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07-20-2004, 03:21 PM | #2 |
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i work at an auto store and the best way for a "custom" sized belt is it measure it. Use a pretty hufty piece of string and go from the crank to the waterpump. tie it together and bring it to an auto store. they should be able to measure it an all that good stuff. make sure to bring in the orginal so they can see how many ribs and crap.
just for FYI on good year belts the numbers mean the length. 4040640. the last 3 numbers is the length, ie 64" the very last # is the length in tenths. the first couple of numbers are the ribs. for our cars it should start with 4040, meaning 4 ribs, or 4030 = 3 ribs. |
07-20-2004, 08:07 PM | #3 |
Leaky Injector
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Napa V-Ribbed Belt (Its a gates belt)
25 030267 13/32" x 27 3/38" or 11mm x 695mm That belt is a tight fit so here is the procedure for getting it on. loosen all the bolts on the crank pulley and leave two on (the top ones), loosen the water pump bolts but leave two on (the bottom ones), then slide the belt on and press the belt on hard while turning the crank. Slowly after maybe 3-5 turns of the crank it will be completely on. then put on and tighten all the bolts. Do a simple test run, see if everything is ok.
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11-17-2004, 01:22 AM | #6 |
OMNOMNOMNOM
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Bump from the past!
Anyone have any other suggestions on where to get a belt for this. The one 1988cc mentioned is to tight and is about to snap. The best guess I can figure is a 705mm x 11mm 3 rib belt. Anywhere close in that range, given 5-10mm. 695mm is to small, closest I found was a 735mm, which was waaaay to big obviously. Gates Rubber has a 715mm that Im going to try, but im expecting it to be to big. HELP ME OUT! Car hasn’t seen asphalt in over a year! |
11-17-2004, 12:17 PM | #8 |
Nissanaholic!
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after you get it done, let us know how you lik driving her without PS
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11-17-2004, 12:48 PM | #9 | |
"buddy jesus"
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i still dont like the idea of no belt tensioner...
just make sure you keep an eye on it
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11-17-2004, 03:45 PM | #10 |
Zilvia Addict
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Without power steering sucks for parking and slow driving. But the roadfeel is awesome, and outweights the difficult parking. Just try to get as close to factory specs as possible on the belt tension. There has got to be a belt on some car that works, hopefully. I've got the E so power steering removal is simple.
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11-17-2004, 04:12 PM | #11 |
BANNED
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>i still dont like the idea of no belt tensioner...
i agree, i wouldnt bother on a KA24DE unless there was some sort of idler puller. thank god KA24E and SR20 dont have this issue. >Without power steering sucks for parking and slow driving. untrue, i can drive around town with one hand, if you drain and empty the rack the car will move VERY easily. i've noticed different tires make a huge difference in terms of rolling resistance. |
11-17-2004, 08:01 PM | #12 |
Zilvia Addict
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i've had it off for about 5 months now; drained the rack, pluged the holes and removed everything. it's very good for grip and whatnot and its easy as hell when your moving. parking, whatever get used to it, its seriously not that hard.
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11-18-2004, 11:33 PM | #13 |
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I used the same belt 1998cc mentioned. It's definitely a tight fit but it stretched a little after running it. 650 miles later no problems. Glad my temp guage is working now so I know if it breaks!
Shouldn't have to remove all those bolts to get it on either.
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12-06-2004, 03:22 AM | #14 |
Leaky Injector
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i ran into this problem when getting my ka powered 510 running, because i obviously wasnt using power steering.
i have a bracket and idler built that weighs about 5 lbs if anyone wants to buy it it. otherwise i might start selling the belts that i used for the straight crank-water pump. theres a trick to it how many people would be interested in buying the belt? its about as tense as the stock belt, no need to loosen the crank to get it on. |
12-06-2004, 12:26 PM | #15 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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west - you can't just leave the power steering pump on there as an idler, you'd have to desing some type of bracket and just get an idler pulley for like a cavalier or something and put it in its place. problem is that the power steering pump needs the power steering fluid as a lube for the bearings, otherwise after a few weeks it will lock up if its just used as an idler pulley.
KEvin
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12-21-2004, 07:49 AM | #19 |
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West, stoping being a bitch and break out the welding helmet and some balls. A custom tensioner is cake to make, just mimic the design used for the SOHC alternator. Homie with the 510 somewhere up in this thread did it...
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04-20-2005, 09:26 PM | #20 |
has anyone tried putting in a t fitting and running a line to an empty resvior? Also is there any reason you cant loop around a line and have the ps pump just pump fluid through itself?
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