keMz

basically my alternator fuse melted. i ran the alternator independant cause the oem fuse holder was all busted. my dad suspected it was the flex fans cause i had 40-50amps draw when you test the alternator wire that runs to the battery.

ive changed the fans and fuse holder... i got the fans running with 1 relay also...

now ive changed the alternator to a nissan quest 125a one...

the draw is still 40-50amps under max load with a/c, hids, dual fans...

has anyone had a similiar issue...

my car is a 91 nissan 240sx coupe se (originally automatic)
now she has sr20det, quest alt, a/c, redtop battery.

any kind of suggestions would help cause im stuck... my 89 fb which was my old car had the same swap but minus all these issues and quest alternator...

thank you

godrifttoday

well if u did your own wiring... i would say the size of gauge wire u used is to blame, maybe u got to thin of a WIRE

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riptor

hey bro...what gauge wire are you using between the relay and the batt? what brand of fans are you using? what size fuse? what is the relay rated at?

def sounds like u might have too small wire...draw really isnt to much. melting means too much heat.

keMz

ran 4 gauge batt wire from alternator to battery
running 2x 8 gauge speaker wire running the relay to the fuse (1 relay per fan) then 4ga running to the battery
flex-a-lite 210's then swapped um out with flex-a-lite 220s
both go into 1 fuse which is 40a. and the relays are 30/40a DEI relays.

Any ideas is helping me...

DaveAZ

Are you melting wires, or melting fuses? Since you have the means to test amperage, why not run the engine with no electrical load, and see if the huge load is caused by a specific system, then narrow it down?

Is the battery in the engine bay, or did you relocate to the trunk? 4 AWG cable is good for runs up to 10 feet, up to 100 Amp. Any longer, or any more amperage, and you need to use 2 AWG.

If your engine grounds are crappy (the large ones on the passenger side near the battery box, and also to the block in that area) you will see a larger current draw as well.

But hey, great job on having AC! We have the same setup as you, and the wiring for that is kicking our asses right now. lol. Good luck.

keMz

ya before the dual fans kick on so thats when i run the a/c its only drawing 10-11amps with my hids.
right now i got it wired so 1 fan is for a/c and 1 fan is for thermostat.
with everything plus 1 fan its about 25-30amps.
then with max load its pushing 40-45 soemtimes 50 if the engine is hot.

ya i think my grounds are good but maybe not, couldnt really find a diagram where im suppose to have the fatty grounds since my car was built from scratch. im hoping this is the problem but finding it is getting hard.

i will update this pic but this was right before the car was painted.

DaveAZ

Those big grounds are located underneath about where the BOV is, and also near the bottom of the battery tray. Our car is also heavily modified, but we didn't move the grounds very far. Of course you can easily find the battery ground.

I think you are drawing too much current because of the grounds, but in talking with my son yesterday about this, he reminded me we are using 0 AWG with our trunk mount.

If it were me, I would take out the battery, and get a good visual on those grounds, loosen them, check them out, etc, then put it back together with 2 AWG cable on both batt wires.

Very nice engine bay.

keMz

First pic shows what happens to the fuse holders because the draw is so high and makes everything so hot.

Second pic is of the current engine bay as of now.

Does anyone have a detailed diagram where the grounds should be but i will do some research along those lines i guess...