NISMO thermostat - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

jamanrr · 07-09-2010, 09:20 PM

just switched back to the OEM 76. whatever thermostat -- let you all know how it goes

jamanrr · 07-10-2010, 07:52 AM

switched back to the oem t-stat and it runs a lot smoother and gets to normal operating temps quicker. Which is what I wanted. It was way overkill on my setup. The fan shroud and clutch fan moves so much air that it cools all I need it to. I know sr20dets love to run or most engines for that matter in the 180-200 degree F range.

The only thing I saw that the Nismo t-stat did was open sooner making it harder or longer to get to normal operating temps. This was not a good thing IMO because for less wear and tear on your engine you want to get to Normal operating temps as quickly as possible.

on a side note. I think those chemicals I used to clean the gasket off and that Nissan coolant has made me supper sick. Hope I do not have to so this again for a while.

jspaeth · 07-10-2010, 05:00 PM

good....great success!

jamanrr · 07-10-2010, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jspaeth

good....great success!

thanks and you guys were also correct. I was experiencing some swings in my coolant temps even before I switched back to the oem t-stat. So, I pulled the radiator cap and turned the heat on high and let it sit idle for 20 minutes until it hit normal operating temperatures. Well, I let it idle like that till it hit 78 degrees C and then hit the throttle and held it constant and like 4000 rpm. I then noticed it start to bubble and I was like great air in the lines. So, I did this 2-3 times until all the bubbles came out. It took all the air out of the passages and runs a lot smoother now. The oil pressure and idle would bounce around before on start up and I guess it was because it had air in the coolant lines causing this. Everything is great now. Temps hold a lot more constant and ran the crap out of it and hit 88-86 degrees C and held that for the 30 minutes I drove it on top of the 30 minutes it was idling. Thanks for all the help. Now anyone want to buy a NISMO t-stat for the cheap?

jspaeth · 07-11-2010, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamanrr

thanks and you guys were also correct. I was experiencing some swings in my coolant temps even before I switched back to the oem t-stat. So, I pulled the radiator cap and turned the heat on high and let it sit idle for 20 minutes until it hit normal operating temperatures. Well, I let it idle like that till it hit 78 degrees C and then hit the throttle and held it constant and like 4000 rpm. I then noticed it start to bubble and I was like great air in the lines. So, I did this 2-3 times until all the bubbles came out. It took all the air out of the passages and runs a lot smoother now. The oil pressure and idle would bounce around before on start up and I guess it was because it had air in the coolant lines causing this. Everything is great now. Temps hold a lot more constant and ran the crap out of it and hit 88-86 degrees C and held that for the 30 minutes I drove it on top of the 30 minutes it was idling. Thanks for all the help. Now anyone want to buy a NISMO t-stat for the cheap?

Glad you got it to work.

Honestly, I have no issues just filling and refilling and refilling.....i.e. with time, all of the bubbles seem to make the way to the top of the radiator on my car on their own

codyace · 07-12-2010, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamanrr

thanks and you guys were also correct. I was experiencing some swings in my coolant temps even before I switched back to the oem t-stat. So, I pulled the radiator cap and turned the heat on high and let it sit idle for 20 minutes until it hit normal operating temperatures. Well, I let it idle like that till it hit 78 degrees C and then hit the throttle and held it constant and like 4000 rpm. I then noticed it start to bubble and I was like great air in the lines. So, I did this 2-3 times until all the bubbles came out. It took all the air out of the passages and runs a lot smoother now. The oil pressure and idle would bounce around before on start up and I guess it was because it had air in the coolant lines causing this. Everything is great now. Temps hold a lot more constant and ran the crap out of it and hit 88-86 degrees C and held that for the 30 minutes I drove it on top of the 30 minutes it was idling. Thanks for all the help. Now anyone want to buy a NISMO t-stat for the cheap?

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamanrr

switched back to the oem t-stat and it runs a lot smoother and gets to normal operating temps quicker. Which is what I wanted. It was way overkill on my setup. The fan shroud and clutch fan moves so much air that it cools all I need it to. I know sr20dets love to run or most engines for that matter in the 180-200 degree F range.

The only thing I saw that the Nismo t-stat did was open sooner making it harder or longer to get to normal operating temps. This was not a good thing IMO because for less wear and tear on your engine you want to get to Normal operating temps as quickly as possible.

See, and you fought tooth and nail to prove us wrong

Once in a while you gotta sit back and think 'if it's better, why isn't everyone doing it'. Been there done that - at least you went about it somewhat dedeuctivly! I bolded the most important thing (again which we tried telling you forever)....the engine is designed to work best at XXX heat...

Good to hear it's all working as it should now...

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamanrr

on a side note. I think those chemicals I used to clean the gasket off and that Nissan coolant has made me supper sick. Hope I do not have to so this again for a while.

Chemicals to remove the silicone? Just use a scraper and a wire brush...much easier. And dont' waste your money on Nissan coolant....just run the cheapest stuff possible. Trust me, it's all made the same.

jamanrr · 07-12-2010, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

See, and you fought tooth and nail to prove us wrong

Once in a while you gotta sit back and think 'if it's better, why isn't everyone doing it'. Been there done that - at least you went about it somewhat dedeuctivly! I bolded the most important thing (again which we tried telling you forever)....the engine is designed to work best at XXX heat...

Good to hear it's all working as it should now...

Chemicals to remove the silicone? Just use a scraper and a wire brush...much easier. And dont' waste your money on Nissan coolant....just run the cheapest stuff possible. Trust me, it's all made the same.

I had a hook up on the Nissan coolant so I was set. It is dark green instead of NEON like some others. Yeah, they are basically all the same cause I do not think I would pay 25 bucks for the Nissan coolant. I also used some paint and gasket stripper which eats up silicone based RTV but it is a very strong acid so I was extremely careful to plug the coolant holes and passages before I did it. Brushed and scrapped it off with a putty knife. Went well, just wanted to make sure I got all the compound off. Used Honda Bond to seal it up around the gasket and some Wurth CU1100 on the bolts to seal out and lubricate them so they do not swell or expand with heat or moisture. Maybe overkill but it is important to make sure it does not leak any fluids.

Bigsyke · 07-14-2010, 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WorkInProgressK

Basicly, the nismo termo doesn't do anything. If someone prooves that it flows better then maybe. But opening earlier and later has just an effect on you heating system and nothing else. If someone TRULY tracks their car not a drift once every hour, I mean 20-40mins continuous racing (with stock rad obviously). You would realize that you temp is way beyond the 70C point. Basically its just open and stays open. On my local track when I had stock rad and fans. my engine would cool by boiling its water. So steady 100C. Not dangerous as long as I had water.

So ditch that fancy Nismo part and stick with the stock termo.

Cool by boiling its own water? You do know when water boils in the water jackets it turns the aluminum to mush and can eat a hole right though the block in minutes.

212*f is not where your coolant temps should be. The nismo opens at 143* and the stock opens at 169*f. The OE is already almost 20* cooler than todays standard t-stats.

But I may run my nismo stat again because its just sitting there.

07-10-2010, 07:52 AM	#32
jamanrr Zilvia Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: arkansas Posts: 258 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	switched back to the oem t-stat and it runs a lot smoother and gets to normal operating temps quicker. Which is what I wanted. It was way overkill on my setup. The fan shroud and clutch fan moves so much air that it cools all I need it to. I know sr20dets love to run or most engines for that matter in the 180-200 degree F range. The only thing I saw that the Nismo t-stat did was open sooner making it harder or longer to get to normal operating temps. This was not a good thing IMO because for less wear and tear on your engine you want to get to Normal operating temps as quickly as possible. on a side note. I think those chemicals I used to clean the gasket off and that Nissan coolant has made me supper sick. Hope I do not have to so this again for a while. Last edited by jamanrr; 07-10-2010 at 09:46 AM..

07-10-2010, 05:00 PM	#33
jspaeth Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Philadelphia suburbs Age: 37 Posts: 2,347 Trader Rating: (7) Rides Gallery: jspaeth Feedback Score: 7 reviews	good....great success! __________________ Daily driven

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07-09-2010, 09:20 PM	#31
jamanrr Zilvia Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: arkansas Posts: 258 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	just switched back to the OEM 76. whatever thermostat -- let you all know how it goes