oLemurs

i need someone who is an SR expert or someone who knows a thing or two about wiring or electronics. so esentially i think my tps is bad. all of the tutorials online were completely different for testing the tps. when i was testing it the voltage was jumping around but it would change a little when i adjusted the tps. so i finally figured out my motor wiring harness is an automatic which means the TPS has 5 or 6 wires while the manual has 3. i basically want to know if there is a way to wire up the wire sensor to the tps wires. i already have the new TPS sensor for a manual and im recieving the plug in the mail soon. here is a video of me driving the car i would appreciate it if you guys let me know if you think this is a bad TPS. this is full throttle in 1st
https://youtu.be/oexWamrEOD4

gaz_moose

running a manual tps on an auto loom with a manual gearbox wont cause you any trouble. running it off a manual or ecu wont be any trouble either.

oLemurs

ok thanks, now i just gotta figure out which wires go where :P

Kingtal0n

I've pulled the TPS sensor from many an SR20 car and could barely tell the difference. Most of the fueling is done via maf sensor, very minor is due to TPS.

Especially WOT. If you have trouble at WOT, it probably isn't the TPS


Just watched the video, it seems like you are complaining about a lack of low end torque from idle to 2500rpm. Its a 2.0L engine. There is nothing coming out of that thing below 5k worth a shit. Second, you have to realize that the intercooler needs to be pressurized before the engine can get pressure, that intercoolers may reduce total power (resistive pressure drop) and engine response because of this fact. When you combine a large intercooler with a stock-size turbo the result is a fairly large "slump" of lag that you will experience when trying to get going in 1st gear.

Here is the diagnostic procedure I would follow:
1. Boost leak test, do not skip this
2. compression test
3. verify the wideband at WOT

If you still have trouble get a video of the wideband activity during WOT.
Also stop expecting the engine to "get moving fast" from 1st gear idle conditions before, lets say, 4k~ rpm.
If you put an OEM size-intercooler on the vehicle with the OEM size turbo it would move a lot faster from a dead stop idle. The way they do when new from the factory.

oLemurs

thanks for the advice, i didnt post the video here but when i unplug the tps it seems to rev alot more freely and it doesnt make the hesitation noise. ill link it but im not really sure what to do here, doesn't the tps also control timing?
https://youtu.be/4jXrxLcTxIo

TheRealSy90

If the voltage change at the sensor isn't a smooth sweep from closed throttle to fully open throttle then the sensor is probably faulty.

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oLemurs

Yea there was correlation but I️ couldn’t even get it to .45 volts because it kept jumping around, and the most volts it would go is to 1 volt

ImThatGuy

Recently been chasing some what similar issues and just adjusted my TPS. It is VERY sensitive when doing the adjustments. Dialing it in took a couple minutes of finesse to get it set perfectly at closed position.

LoSt180

Best way to check voltage is to pick up a cheap Nissan Consult cable, install Nissan Data Scan I on your phone or PC, and monitor everything via the ECU. Trying to stick a multimeter into the wiring harness is just asking for voltages to jump around or not be very reliable.

oLemurs

already purchased one but i dont have a laptop with windows 8 or below which is whats needed
EDIT: i know im just making excuses at this point but theres not much info on how to get datascan to work

dizzariot

I'd like to point out that this is awesome. Everyone says Zilvia bashes new members who ask questions. This is a great example of someone new trying multiple things (and explaining the issue thoroughly) before shitposting. Props to everyone in here.

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LoSt180

If you have an Android, get a USB OTG adapter so you can plug it into your phone. Download NDSI and go from there. That's what I use.

I know I've gotten a consult program to work on my windows 10 laptop though. If it works on Windows 7, then it'll work on 8/10.

oLemurs

may have found the problem, i was taking off the intake manifold to make sure i wasnt missing any vacuum lines and to clean it off and out, when i took off the coupler from the throttle body it didnt even need to be loosened and it popped off. im assuming the past owner just had the wrong size hose clamp because it was maxed out.

ImThatGuy

Definitely confirm once you have it back together

J

Kingtal0n

Oh sorry what are we thinking,

"Hey you, DO a search and stop asking dumb questions!"


As a side note, I've NEVER had to set, check, inspect, or otherwise screw with any TPS sensor on any SR20. I've had them off, and slapped them back on in the dark without issues.

Its either bad as a member said above (jumping voltage is the only thing I can think of that would create issues), and unplugging it "fixes" everything and you buy a new one,
or, unplugging it doesn't seem to change anything, and you move on.

oLemurs

its probably going to be a few weeks, even just taking off the intake manifold i couldnt feel my hands so i probably wont be working on it much this winter ):

ImThatGuy

I hear ya. Temps near Chicago have been down right miserable.

oLemurs

worked on it a little today, got the intake manifold in except i am now having a problem with it revving so high without me touching the pedal. in this video i have the tps unplugged but would cleaning out the IACV cause this? also this is without the hose clamp fitting so maybe that is causing it to rev so high? what you didnt see in the video is after a few seconds of it idling it will rev up to about 2500/
https://youtu.be/zjnXps-Rx2k
https://youtu.be/H-crbffUD1M