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Old 12-01-2009, 10:44 PM   #1
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Clicking noise and no power to starter?

Hey guy thanks for taking the time to read this. I just finished puting in my 1994 KA24de in my 89 hatch. When I try to start the car I get a clicking noise from the fuse box behind the driver side head lamp? I have checked all the grounds. I am thinking the starter itself could be bad...but the motor was running when we removed it from the previous car? I do not know the wiring on these car very well and I have searched and looked as much as I can. Any opinion or advice on direction I could go in would be alot of help. I am taking the starter to test tomorrow to see if its good. Thankyou and have a great day.
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:31 PM   #2
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check the starter, thats what sounds to be the problem from your description, or something isnt wired right...
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Old 12-02-2009, 02:15 AM   #3
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Have someone smack the starter with a hammer while you try cranking it, it might be stuck. But judging by your post, I think it's a wiring problem. It worked before it was pulled, so I think you simply installed a few wires wrong. Double check your wiring in the FSM.
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Old 12-02-2009, 03:36 PM   #4
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Well today after I got off work I took the starter off to get tested. The starter itself tested correctlyand It works fine I put the starter back on and nothing again. As far as wiring goes I havn't done much really. The harness on the motor is ran to the ECU. and the dash conector I had to cut the end off and get the white end. I color matched the wires correctly and sodered them and the connectors from the harness to the fuse box on the passenger side are plug and play. I even jumped off the starter to the battery what the hell?
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:55 AM   #5
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have u tried to push start the car? i had a problem like this when i did a swap last week, my issue was somehow the ignition wire from key to starter burnt out, i soiderd a jumper cable to the ignition cylnder (the black w/yellow tracer behind where your keys go) directly to the starter with an inline fuse on it with a female end snap electric fitting slides right over the harness coming from the starter and it started just fine, i ran the cable under the steering column thru the firewall
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Old 12-03-2009, 01:11 PM   #6
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Well today after I got off work I took the starter off to get tested. The starter itself tested correctlyand It works fine I put the starter back on and nothing again. As far as wiring goes I havn't done much really. The harness on the motor is ran to the ECU. and the dash conector I had to cut the end off and get the white end. I color matched the wires correctly and sodered them and the connectors from the harness to the fuse box on the passenger side are plug and play. I even jumped off the starter to the battery what the hell?
was ur car auto before???and did u switch it to a 5speed
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:07 PM   #7
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Yea it was an auto.... they switched it out to a manual and failed. I found the wire they looped for the inhibtor switch it a real hack job plus missing plugs and relays and wire's that have been fried from not being covered up. So I found a chassis harness from the dash foward and all with all the fuse boxes undamaged for 50 bucks. I get to go pull it out and and start over from where they screwed up. Thanks for the resposes guys. I will keep you up to date.
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:45 PM   #8
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Yea it was an auto.... they switched it out to a manual and failed. I found the wire they looped for the inhibtor switch it a real hack job plus missing plugs and relays and wire's that have been fried from not being covered up
Your car sounds like a handful.

I recommend pulling the entire engine harness that runs up to the dash and check every single wire and connector. Put everything back to stock using the FSM.

Then redo the auto to manual swap properly and document your work.
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:56 PM   #9
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Trust me I plan too...the engine harness is O.K. I took it to work with me today with a FSM. I am a mechanic at a dealership so when I had the down time I messed with it today. All the connectors are in great shape along with all the pinouts into the connectors and the ECU side looks the same so no loose or frayed ends. Time to work on the 240 chassis end from the dash foward. This is going to be fun.....
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Old 12-06-2009, 04:08 PM   #10
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Well I went and got a new chassis harness I am not looking foward in swaping it out. Its too damn cold to work in the garage now so time to pick up a heater of some sort. I will keep you updated Later...
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Old 12-07-2009, 06:59 PM   #11
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Well I got the dash and the hack job chassis harnesss out tonight after work. This was a real pain in the ass to get out but I am glad that I did it because I learned what the internal wiring looks like behind all the panels on the S chassis. Took some pics for ya to look at.



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Old 12-07-2009, 07:20 PM   #12
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Good job.

Now you get to identify every single connector. Then check every single wire to see if it's supposed to be there. Then check for short.

Anything that shouldn't be there should be removed and returned to stock.

And go ahead and reroute your front left fender harness into the engine bay to prevent problems.

Ask me if you have any specific questions. Good luck.
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:27 PM   #13
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Thanks...I will try to put the new harness in tomorrow after work. I took notes of all the connectors including location ,pin layout and color hopfully everything will work out.
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:40 PM   #14
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This thread is the exact reason I have been avoiding you lately.....
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:07 PM   #15
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This thread is the exact reason I have been avoiding you lately.....
LMAO!!! Shut up.....you can borrow the wife.
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Old 12-08-2009, 01:39 PM   #16
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So today I got to looking around and I found this black plug. Not sure what the hell it is I didnt unhook it off the harness when I removed it last night it was just there chillin by itself???? Heads Up Display maybe? anyway here are some pic if anyone know what the hell it is.

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Old 12-09-2009, 12:54 PM   #17
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^^^Pic of last one, is suppose to just hang there. Its a port for diagnostics i believe (correct me if i am wrong).
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Old 12-09-2009, 01:41 PM   #18
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It looks like the diagnostic port. Not CONSULT. It's the older style diagnostic port.

It's been so long since I've seen one. Russ will be able to confirm definitely for you.
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Old 12-09-2009, 05:59 PM   #19
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You never know what your getting into when you work behind somebody.
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:14 PM   #20
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hrrmmmm, sounds like my car,
its a 89 but has a 93 DE in it,

it clicks but doesnt turn on,

but it does most of the times but the other times i just have to keep clicking it and messing with the clutch and it eventually turns on,

anyways im in a need of a great working DE
lol
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:42 PM   #21
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Well I was worried for a minute....but I did confirm its some kind of a diagnostics port. Please keep in mind all this is new to me I come from a strong Honda background of 12 yrs. I wanted something new to learn and ticker with. I am thankfull for any help that you all have gave me or you're ideas of what that proplem might have been. I hope to learn something new each time I come to this site.... I dont get much of a anything from the other site. As of now I have to get a starter and a battery, my cost on these parts new is $160 bucks new for both. I really dont trust these kind of parts used. So I am tring to figure out how to come up with the extra money. I will post up updates as soon as I can. I hope to have it running before next year???
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:59 PM   #22
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why do you need to get a new starter eli? I thought the other one tested fine?????? Your probably keeping this shit off of tennspeed so everyone isnt like I told you so huh? lol

I feel for you so bad man, really. Ive just never had to deal with such a mess!
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:08 PM   #23
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It's your battery.

your battery could read 1000000000v and not start.

It has to have the right amount of Amperes in order to start, charge it for a few hours or try a new battery.
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Old 12-10-2009, 09:04 AM   #24
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it is most likely the starter solenoid or the signal wire from the relay to the starter solenoid is bad. It happened to me, I was only getting 10v through the signal wire and it wasn't engaging the power to the starter. The solenoid just clinks against the flywheel.
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Old 12-10-2009, 01:05 PM   #25
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why do you need to get a new starter eli? I thought the other one tested fine?????? Your probably keeping this shit off of tennspeed so everyone isnt like I told you so huh? lol

I feel for you so bad man, really. Ive just never had to deal with such a mess!
When I had it tested it was working? I tried jumping it to the battery I had in the 240 and nothing. So I pulled the battery out of the Caddy and its a brand new battery ( meaning I put the new battery in last week ) and still nothing. Just the stroke of luck I guess.... any way the ISIS power steering line came in so there is some good news at least. Aaron says he has a spare starter laying around but tring to get him to find it and bringing it to work would take an act of GOD and plus he is getting for the drift event this sat. I will not be able to make it Bradon so give it hell and stay away from the wall this time.
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Old 12-15-2009, 06:36 PM   #26
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Its ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I primed up the oil guides on the tensioner so it wouldnt start slapin the timming chain and crossed my fingers made vows to GOD about no more masssages with happy endings and it started. I laugh so hard I have the hickups or what the hell ever you spell they wont go away and I dont care. It runs the end thank you to all that had put in their 2 cents and helped. I willl keep you updated
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Old 12-17-2009, 11:58 AM   #27
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Wait, You promised me you were going to give me a massage with a happy ending and now your backing out?
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Old 12-25-2009, 05:52 PM   #28
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well the car is running and some what drivable. I need a aliment and the car runs warmer than I like. I will try a lower temp thermostat and might go back to a clutch fan and shroud? It has a 16in slim fan.....at idle and not moving it does fine but if I drive a little after 10 min or so after warming up the needle goes up a bit. I cant post pics due to the fact I cant find my charger for the battery in my camera so sorry.....
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:10 AM   #29
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Anyway Did some mocking up today with the cusco can and finished some wiring. Also put on a new belt for the power steering and added fluid to the steering unit. I have a lot of cleaning to do so please excuse the bay, its not normal of me to have a dirty bay.


Got alot done last night. Thanks to Chris ( SERUM ) being a great friend to come over and helped out. We got the drive shaft back on and bleed the clutch and got all the air out of the power steering unit and lines. Tonight I got the tranny filled back up with fluid and get the dash back in. Today was a great day.....got upand went to Starbucks got my drink then went to Goodwill. I found a used Shoei helment in great shape and it is my size for a low low price of $12.99. Then came home did some cleaning around the house and went to the garage to work on the beast. I finally caught a break with the heating issue with the KA so that issue is solved. I have rubbing issues with the inner fender where the factory welds the inner fenderwells together with the outer ones so I have to cut and bend them out of the way. I took a small video tonight to show you guys the update. Please keep in mind I am by no means a camera guy its shity quailty and the car is noisy from the solid mounts everything vibrates and rattles its ass off other than that the motor runs great its quiet and idles perfect now thank god.
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:11 AM   #30
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I fixed the issue with my tire getting cut up by the inner stitch weld from nissan. You can see how close it is in the pic but the diffrence is night and daywhen driving now. Took it out tonght for a test spin no more rubbing issues almost there now, just a few more thing to finish up. Thanks to Chris for comming over and hanging out....
before

after

with the wheel on
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