Finished carbon dash - Page 3 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

driftstyre · 01-19-2006, 05:26 PM

Thanks for the kind words everyone. Its very encouraging!

The dash is more or less finished but I clumsily dropped my vdo tach (and the glass shattered) that has some history in my two previous street cars (except the '86 tercel I drive now), so that was a let down. On the bright side, I found a used 80mm Stack ST200 Tach in Belgium. So, behind the wheel in the shroud will sit an 80mm tach and 80mm turbo pressure guage.

I worked on modifying the front control arms last night and tonight.

I added threaded inserts to the inner side for a 5/8-1/2" rod end, strengthened them inside and outside.

The outside balljoint was replaced with a 5/8 monoball assembly and strengthened, alot.

If someone trys to break into the shop, I'm gonna beat them with this thing!

Tabs for the tension rod and bladed sway bar links have to be added but I'll wait til they are on the car. The remaining rear arms have been modified for rod ends. I was going to make tubular ones but I really have to get the cooling system/wiring done so time is tight.

The rear subframe is lightened by 9 lbs. I bought these sweet subframe bushings from Ian at SPL Parts and they arrived in 3 days. They are the first 240sx parts I have bought new and are well worth the 120 odd dollars that they cost. I was going to have the machinest next door make them but for how well priced SPL's are, I couldn't pass it up.

sideview_180sx · 01-19-2006, 06:20 PM

How did you lighten the rear subframe by 9lbs. not too mention did you increase the rigidity of it as well??

*NemeGuero* · 01-19-2006, 06:27 PM

'Cuz he's a fuckin' CHAMP!!

ha, no really though...

I too would like to know.

McRussellPants · 01-19-2006, 08:01 PM

Probably by cleaning all that OEM leaky diff grease off of it

That shit is gonna be hot.

chmercer · 01-19-2006, 08:39 PM

how did you stamp the holes for the gussets and lcas?

driftstyre · 01-19-2006, 09:08 PM

The subframe has cast iron weights on it for vibration dampening (I'm assuming thats what they are for). There are 2 2.5 lb ones on each of the front bushing sleeves. Then there are two smaller ones in the center flat sheet metal cross section thingy. There are a few tabs I cut off as well. The holes are made with punch & flare dies. It strengthens sheet metal a good deal, takes some weight out as well.

chmercer · 01-19-2006, 09:39 PM

http://www.fournierenterprises.com/equipment.htm

the thing 3/4 down the page? if im understanding correctly you just drill a 1/4 hole or whatever, and crank down on it with an impact or somthing and it cuts and flares the hole at the same time? could you suggest a good one, i just googled and that was the first thing i found.

compliments again on the car, the fab work looks impeccable. very envious of the cage and dash. thumbs up.

1mns13 · 01-19-2006, 09:39 PM

Looks great.

*kognition* · 01-19-2006, 10:48 PM

Did you happen to weigh the subframe by chance? How much does it weigh?

andrewmp6 · 01-20-2006, 06:19 AM

what did you cut off the subframe to lighten it up if you have any questions on cf talk to kognition he makes some very nice parts

240Driver39 · 01-20-2006, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

what did you cut off the subframe to lighten it up

He already posted what he did

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftstyre

The subframe has cast iron weights on it for vibration dampening (I'm assuming thats what they are for). There are 2 2.5 lb ones on each of the front bushing sleeves. Then there are two smaller ones in the center flat sheet metal cross section thingy. There are a few tabs I cut off as well.

driftstyre · 01-20-2006, 03:50 PM

The mittler brothers punch/flare tool is the one I use for most stuff. Anything smaller than 1" and you have to punch and flare seperately.

*kognition* · 01-20-2006, 09:12 PM

If you should decide to give it another try down the road, and you are doing a wet layup, lay down some nylon peel ply over the CF before bagging. When you do get it sealed up and leak free, take a plastic body filler spatula and squeegee over the surface starting from the center of your work. Work your way out, and do this 2 or 3 times. It will remove any bubbles as well as all excess resin and the peel ply will give not only a dry carbon finish, but it will prevent wrinkles caused by the vacuum bag. You will have a uniform resin barrier over the fiber now, that can be clearcoated if desired. I see you have a resin trap, since you were doing a wet layup, you probaly did not see much resin go into the trap. The trap is really best for resin infusion. But i commend you for going with a pretty large and irregular shaped part.

///////

The quality isn't anything I would want to sell but it works for me. There are plenty of defects and I already would have done a lot different in the lay up process and bagging process. I wasn't expecting it to be very good but I was expecting it to be ok. I have always had a lot of respect for people doing wet carbon work.

I fit the piece in the car and its pretty cool. I was getting nervous about how I would fit it in but after a little trimming it actually works pretty well. I'll post some pics later today.

To answer some other questions:
The epoxy is Fiberglast Epoxy Resin with their 120 minute hardener[/QUOTE]

MrSkinny · 01-20-2006, 09:57 PM

^^^^
would you guys be producing one in the near future?

m0rex · 01-21-2006, 04:14 AM

Fking hella nice man. That would be sick to do on the dash. Whatever works you know. Being light is all that counts.

*kognition* · 01-21-2006, 10:52 AM

I don't think anyone would want to produce this part for customers because of the size and shape. Shipping and packaging would be a nightmare. It would really have to be a pick up only part.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrSkinny

^^^^
would you guys be producing one in the near future?

Edgar · 01-21-2006, 12:51 PM

That does look dope. Awsome job man!

driftstyre · 01-23-2006, 09:34 PM

Thanks Kognition.
I have ingested so much info about the layup/bagging process and completely forgot to squegee out the resin. I did use peel ply but as you probably remember from your first parts it doesn't go according to plan. I also made the bag too small in a few areas which caused some of the voids

Here are some pics of the plug and mold.

The flocking materials should be here in a day or two and I'll post pics when that is done.

*NemeGuero* · 01-23-2006, 10:36 PM

Make one for an S14!!!! w00t!

*kognition* · 01-24-2006, 09:38 AM

I have ruined many parts. It can be an expensive process. Which is why i use fiberglass to test out a new mold so it wont be so painful if i screw it up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftstyre

Thanks Kognition.
I have ingested so much info about the layup/bagging process and completely forgot to squegee out the resin. I did use peel ply but as you probably remember from your first parts it doesn't go according to plan. I also made the bag too small in a few areas which caused some of the voids

driftstyre · 01-28-2006, 05:20 PM

The dash/drivers display is done. There are a few small holes I need to make for low oil/high water temp/shift lights right next to the red vdo boost meter. All switches will be on a panel where the factory handbrake is and the handbrake will be upright, next to the gear lever. I will finish that tomarrow as we have a batch of aluminum going out on monday for annodizing and I would like to get it all done by then. This week the coolant lines to the rear and the radiator will be mounted.

Nan Desu Ka?! · 01-29-2006, 11:10 PM

very race-car ish. no bullshit, just engine readout. i love it. keep up the good work!

*NemeGuero* · 01-30-2006, 12:00 AM

Yah, that's some hard-core shit. I can't wait to see the finished product.

Ritz S14 · 01-30-2006, 12:13 AM

Excuse my noobieness.. but what are the unlabled gauges reading?

driftstyre · 01-30-2006, 05:33 AM

Exhaust and water temps. I'll label them when they are in there for good. I'm sure I'll probably forget!

*kognition* · 01-30-2006, 09:31 AM

That $hit would look nuts if you had it annodized.

driftstyre · 01-31-2006, 04:44 PM

The center console is finished and the interior aluminum parts are out getting annodized. I have 4 or 5 more engine parts to annodize later but the interior is more or less done.

Irukandji · 01-31-2006, 05:28 PM

Wow great work.. keep the pictures coming. +1,000,000 for awesome fabrication work.

simply awesome

*NemeGuero* · 01-31-2006, 05:51 PM

That makes my pee pee hurt.

Nan Desu Ka?! · 02-01-2006, 04:21 AM

jesus, that is some amazzing craftsmanship. +lots and lots for you sir. I officially love this thread. /subscribes

01-19-2006, 06:20 PM	#62
sideview_180sx Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: somewhere north of mexico Posts: 1,538 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	How did you lighten the rear subframe by 9lbs. not too mention did you increase the rigidity of it as well?? __________________ feel the rythym. feel the ride. get on up. it's bobsled time. COOL RUNNINGS!!! formerly sideviewcivic Save a Horse. Drift This Cowboy. AirBag Club Member #0014

01-19-2006, 06:27 PM	#63
NemeGuero No more nissan. Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: RAIN, Washington. Age: 36 Posts: 8,132 Trader Rating: (10) Rides Gallery: NemeGuero Feedback Score: 10 reviews	'Cuz he's a fuckin' CHAMP!! ha, no really though... I too would like to know. __________________

01-19-2006, 09:39 PM	#68
1mns13 Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2004 Location: Freedomland Posts: 84 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Looks great. __________________ www.the-nissan-240sx.com

01-20-2006, 09:57 PM	#74
MrSkinny Zilvia Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: t o Posts: 188 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	^^^^ would you guys be producing one in the near future? __________________

01-21-2006, 04:14 AM	#75
m0rex Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Nebraska Posts: 1,070 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Fking hella nice man. That would be sick to do on the dash. Whatever works you know. Being light is all that counts. __________________

01-19-2006, 05:26 PM	#61
driftstyre Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Boston Age: 42 Posts: 748 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Thanks for the kind words everyone. Its very encouraging! The dash is more or less finished but I clumsily dropped my vdo tach (and the glass shattered) that has some history in my two previous street cars (except the '86 tercel I drive now), so that was a let down. On the bright side, I found a used 80mm Stack ST200 Tach in Belgium. So, behind the wheel in the shroud will sit an 80mm tach and 80mm turbo pressure guage. I worked on modifying the front control arms last night and tonight. I added threaded inserts to the inner side for a 5/8-1/2" rod end, strengthened them inside and outside. The outside balljoint was replaced with a 5/8 monoball assembly and strengthened, alot. If someone trys to break into the shop, I'm gonna beat them with this thing! Tabs for the tension rod and bladed sway bar links have to be added but I'll wait til they are on the car. The remaining rear arms have been modified for rod ends. I was going to make tubular ones but I really have to get the cooling system/wiring done so time is tight. The rear subframe is lightened by 9 lbs. I bought these sweet subframe bushings from Ian at SPL Parts and they arrived in 3 days. They are the first 240sx parts I have bought new and are well worth the 120 odd dollars that they cost. I was going to have the machinest next door make them but for how well priced SPL's are, I couldn't pass it up.

01-19-2006, 08:01 PM	#64
McRussellPants Nissanaholic! Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Austin, Tx Posts: 2,168 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Probably by cleaning all that OEM leaky diff grease off of it That shit is gonna be hot.

01-19-2006, 08:39 PM	#65
chmercer BANNED Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: texas! Age: 35 Posts: 3,288 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	how did you stamp the holes for the gussets and lcas?

01-19-2006, 09:08 PM	#66
driftstyre Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Boston Age: 42 Posts: 748 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	The subframe has cast iron weights on it for vibration dampening (I'm assuming thats what they are for). There are 2 2.5 lb ones on each of the front bushing sleeves. Then there are two smaller ones in the center flat sheet metal cross section thingy. There are a few tabs I cut off as well. The holes are made with punch & flare dies. It strengthens sheet metal a good deal, takes some weight out as well.

01-19-2006, 10:48 PM	#69
kognition Premium Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Santee California Posts: 2,106 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Did you happen to weigh the subframe by chance? How much does it weigh?

01-20-2006, 06:19 AM	#70
andrewmp6 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: kentucky Posts: 376 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	what did you cut off the subframe to lighten it up if you have any questions on cf talk to kognition he makes some very nice parts

01-20-2006, 03:50 PM	#72
driftstyre Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Boston Age: 42 Posts: 748 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	The mittler brothers punch/flare tool is the one I use for most stuff. Anything smaller than 1" and you have to punch and flare seperately.

01-20-2006, 09:12 PM	#73
kognition Premium Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Santee California Posts: 2,106 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	If you should decide to give it another try down the road, and you are doing a wet layup, lay down some nylon peel ply over the CF before bagging. When you do get it sealed up and leak free, take a plastic body filler spatula and squeegee over the surface starting from the center of your work. Work your way out, and do this 2 or 3 times. It will remove any bubbles as well as all excess resin and the peel ply will give not only a dry carbon finish, but it will prevent wrinkles caused by the vacuum bag. You will have a uniform resin barrier over the fiber now, that can be clearcoated if desired. I see you have a resin trap, since you were doing a wet layup, you probaly did not see much resin go into the trap. The trap is really best for resin infusion. But i commend you for going with a pretty large and irregular shaped part. /////// The quality isn't anything I would want to sell but it works for me. There are plenty of defects and I already would have done a lot different in the lay up process and bagging process. I wasn't expecting it to be very good but I was expecting it to be ok. I have always had a lot of respect for people doing wet carbon work. I fit the piece in the car and its pretty cool. I was getting nervous about how I would fit it in but after a little trimming it actually works pretty well. I'll post some pics later today. To answer some other questions: The epoxy is Fiberglast Epoxy Resin with their 120 minute hardener[/QUOTE]

01-21-2006, 12:51 PM	#77
Edgar Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Indianapolis,IN Posts: 4,979 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	That does look dope. Awsome job man! __________________ Drift Indy

01-23-2006, 09:34 PM	#78
driftstyre Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Boston Age: 42 Posts: 748 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Thanks Kognition. I have ingested so much info about the layup/bagging process and completely forgot to squegee out the resin. I did use peel ply but as you probably remember from your first parts it doesn't go according to plan. I also made the bag too small in a few areas which caused some of the voids Here are some pics of the plug and mold. The flocking materials should be here in a day or two and I'll post pics when that is done.

01-23-2006, 10:36 PM	#79
NemeGuero No more nissan. Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: RAIN, Washington. Age: 36 Posts: 8,132 Trader Rating: (10) Rides Gallery: NemeGuero Feedback Score: 10 reviews	Make one for an S14!!!! w00t! __________________

01-28-2006, 05:20 PM	#81
driftstyre Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Boston Age: 42 Posts: 748 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	The dash/drivers display is done. There are a few small holes I need to make for low oil/high water temp/shift lights right next to the red vdo boost meter. All switches will be on a panel where the factory handbrake is and the handbrake will be upright, next to the gear lever. I will finish that tomarrow as we have a batch of aluminum going out on monday for annodizing and I would like to get it all done by then. This week the coolant lines to the rear and the radiator will be mounted.

01-29-2006, 11:10 PM	#82
Nan Desu Ka?! Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: San Jose, CA Age: 35 Posts: 1,124 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	very race-car ish. no bullshit, just engine readout. i love it. keep up the good work! __________________ Norcal-240sx.net

01-30-2006, 12:00 AM	#83
NemeGuero No more nissan. Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: RAIN, Washington. Age: 36 Posts: 8,132 Trader Rating: (10) Rides Gallery: NemeGuero Feedback Score: 10 reviews	Yah, that's some hard-core shit. I can't wait to see the finished product. __________________

01-30-2006, 12:13 AM	#84
Ritz S14 Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: C A L I F O R N I A Age: 39 Posts: 3,586 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Excuse my noobieness.. but what are the unlabled gauges reading?

01-30-2006, 05:33 AM	#85
driftstyre Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Boston Age: 42 Posts: 748 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Exhaust and water temps. I'll label them when they are in there for good. I'm sure I'll probably forget!

01-30-2006, 09:31 AM	#86
kognition Premium Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Santee California Posts: 2,106 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	That $hit would look nuts if you had it annodized.

01-31-2006, 04:44 PM	#87
driftstyre Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Boston Age: 42 Posts: 748 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	The center console is finished and the interior aluminum parts are out getting annodized. I have 4 or 5 more engine parts to annodize later but the interior is more or less done.

01-31-2006, 05:28 PM	#88
Irukandji Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Compton Posts: 4,268 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Wow great work.. keep the pictures coming. +1,000,000 for awesome fabrication work. simply awesome

01-31-2006, 05:51 PM	#89
NemeGuero No more nissan. Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: RAIN, Washington. Age: 36 Posts: 8,132 Trader Rating: (10) Rides Gallery: NemeGuero Feedback Score: 10 reviews	That makes my pee pee hurt. __________________

02-01-2006, 04:21 AM	#90
Nan Desu Ka?! Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: San Jose, CA Age: 35 Posts: 1,124 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	jesus, that is some amazzing craftsmanship. +lots and lots for you sir. I officially love this thread. /subscribes __________________ Norcal-240sx.net

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