HyperTek

Its first grade spelling

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Keep it Classy

ogs14

Checks the fuse still nothing what should I check for in ecu

!Zar!

Did you check the big fuses as well? They look almost like mini relays.

Easiest way is to try a different ecu.

Though I guess you could try and look at the board for burning / damage to any of the traces/resistors/circuits.

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ogs14

My ignition switch fuse was cut hopefully that'll be the problem

ogs14

Yeah it was the ignition switch bought a new one and started right up!

drftx

oh yeah? i guess my car is a integra then right

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milk_with_pulp

This is pure common sense,
it did happen to a buddy of mine when he first bought a hatch, slammed it, didn't touch wiring, as we are driving etc with his lights on, headlights would pop up and down up and down each going separate and when he would start his car, the horn would go off and on then after ignition stopped turning it would shut off.

Cannot seem to find the video but sure was comedy. This definitely didn't deserve a thread though.
Can't complain about pointless posts if I am adding to it.

ogs14

OKAY! so i fixed my problem about the cut wires so people who are arguing about nothing please move your conversation to facebook or something like that thanks for the help for the people who helped me out!

S13teen

I would also recommend, highly urge you to buy a nice soldering iron or gun and do the connections again.

You should use 60/40 Rosin core solder which is quite cheap and works superbly.

Why you should not use butt connectors and butt connectors are quite inferior opposed to baller solder with shrink wrap.

Correct/Properly soldered wirings with utilization of shrink wrapping has great benefits:

1. Great connection contacts
2. Slimmer profile and you should solder in a staggered orientation so if you have multiple wires the solder joints are not all at one area when you loom or tape the entire harness thus no bulge.
3. Stronger physically

Defects of button conectors:

1. Bulky, so if you need your harness to be slim, 10-20 butt connectors would be thicker than how it was originally
2. Most of the times, you don't crimp it correctly the wires pull out
3. water can be trapped in the butt connectors

So, for anyone who thinks Butt connectors are great, that person or persons are kinda noobish. If you truly know about doing things right and not mickey mouse, you know soldering is the correct method. Using butt connectors for emergency or things that are NOT CRUCIAL components is fine.

If you butt connect speaker wires, great, but I wouldn't recommend it on important electrical/mechanical systems.

Butt connectors are like ZipTies, sure great and easy to use until it snaps and pieces of your car falls off.

IN addition, this wire scraping happened to a friend of mine during the last drift event, and he opted to just change the entire harness and not even deal with the splice. Drastic, but if you have a nice car, you might as have a clean harness.

ixfxi

see, this guy is smart. take note everyone, he has like 60 posts and is actually making a smart and informative post. i dont make smart and informative posts anymore. this is what happens when you've been around for too long and only post when you're eating breakfast. no worries, we can thank the above user for saving face for the rest of you new school toolbags who dont know your ass from a hole in the ground

crimp connectors do not qualify as a proper repair - they're patch fixes. the only time a crimp connector is even acceptable is if has been crimped with a proper crimper, which most cheap fucks dont have. they have the typical squeeze tool that notchthe connector. I think I spent $50+ on my crimp tool, and i only use it for temp or non-critical fixes. all critical items (like a fucking CHASSIS harness) should be soldered and sealed with shrink tubing.

example of shitty crimp tool (~10-20 bucks):


example of good crimp tool (~50 bucks):


example of shitty solder iron (ie, radio shack):


example of great solder iron (under $100):

ixfxi

I was actually judging by the fucking monster truck wheel you have installed in the above photo


as for the photo of your car, who gives a fuck? no one asked to see a photo of your blue shitwagon.

azndan2

You're so cool

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kOOpA

It's over, man. Just cut your losses now.

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winter

Been there done that. This is why Nissan sucks at cars. You have to tuck them on Skylines, too. Pull that bish up. I've burned through like 6 wires before. SO MUCH FUN!

slydin240sx

lol

msglenth

Tantwoforty

This scared me so i went out and did this.. lol

ixfxi

are rubber-lined (adel) clamps becoming rare and hard to acquire? whats with the constant use of zip-ties in this community.

its like using a SPORK as opposed to a spoon + fork, whats wrong with you people?

pacotaco345

Does it really matter? Once the fender is on, even if the zipties break they'll still be held up there since the wires are sandwiched between that metal lip and the fender. Next time my front lip cracks and I don't have money to throw away on another one that'll just crack again I'll just stitch it back together with adel clamps...

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Tantwoforty

Not everyone wants to spend like $40 on something you will never ever see and wont work any better than doing it for free. Not that im against using nice sleeveng and adel clamps at all, but its far from necessary or even practical.

You just wanna be a negative Nancy all the time and shit on peoples cars

riptor

damn yall are ruthless! bro checkit...hardest part is makin sure the fender dosent scrape when the door closes. do it on a sat...take your time and it will get done...and bunk all the h8rs and nay-sayers.

waxball88

I got this one for you Ixfxi

Ehh ehm.

You're a fucking idiot if you aren't going to take the more expensive and marginally better route. I bet you buy knock off wheels and parts too. Have fun when your zip-ties break and your rotas eats through the harness til it is beyond repair.
Why is every s-chassis owner a cheapass?

bigs

waxball88, are you ixdixfuxi's bottom bitch?

Take a step back for a second, do you realize you're arguing about zip ties?

Next time you're at an event/meet, you should go bitch everyone out for using zip ties. You'll automatically become the coolest person there, trust me.

CleanAndLegit

ehm
no, quit sucking that doodes chode and realize that spending 40 dollars thats un needed is retarded, its like buying a 089627168390217835621879 dollar pair of socks, and buying 5 dollar socks same shit ones just pointless in paying so much for.

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waxball88

That face is sarcasm face.
The whole point of that post was not to support ixfxi.

Perhaps i should have went the other route and said "ixfxi you're a dumbass, i only use the $100 SPL parts fender harness tuck kit, anything else is cheap/inferior and will fuck your car up"
And for you fools that didn't get it i'll simply put my harness up.

ixfxi

you stupid_fucking_idiots....


Tube Dia. Dash No. Price Each Buy
1/8 MS21919-WDG2 $0.44
3/16 MS21919-WDG3 $0.35
1/4 MS21919-WDG4 $0.36
5/16 MS21919-WDG5 $0.37
3/8 MS21919-WDG6 $0.38
7/16 MS21919-WDG7 $0.43
1/2 MS21919-WDG8 $0.37
9/16 MS21919-WDG9 $0.49
5/8 MS21919-WDG10 $0.43
11/16 MS21919-WDG11 $0.70
3/4 MS21919-WDG12 $0.60
13/16 MS21919-WDG13 $0.74
7/8 MS21919-WDG14 $0.66
15/16 MS21919-WDG15 $0.76
1 MS21919-WDG16 $0.66
1-1/16 MS21919-WDG17 $1.29
1-1/8 MS21919-WDG18 $0.88
1-3/16 MS21919-WDG19 $1.09
1-1/4 MS21919-WDG20 $0.87
1-5/16 MS21919-WDG21 $1.35
1-3/8 MS21919-WDG22 $1.25
1-7/16 MS21919-WDG23 $1.37
1-1/2 MS21919-WDG24 $1.21
1-9/16 MS21919-WDG25 $1.38
1-5/8 MS21919-WDG26 $1.38
1-3/4 MS21919-WDG28 $1.40
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...1919clamps.php

Damn... these clamps ARE EXPENSIVE!

Like I said................stupid_fucking_idiots.

Hang yourselves. All of you, die.

240drifter1

Im trying to figure out what exactly you unplug to pull your harness so I can run it through the bay? I looked last night and everythings to jumble fucked to actually tell.

axiomatik

Sorry, but you're wrong Zar. Butt connectors suck, but not at all for the reason you're listing. Butt connectors have a negligible effect on resistance. The reason they suck is that they are an unreliable connection. They are often improperly crimped, the wires pull out, dirt and grime and salt gets into them, etc.


Funny, to me, common sense suggests that you re-locate the harness *before* your tire chews through the wires.

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