zbarsuglia

QUESTION: I moved my rack forward last weekend. When trying to attach the s13 steering u-joint, I couldn’t get it to seat where the indent is on the rack.

I adjusted the u-joint so the upper part of joint is as low as it can go.
Still no luck. It about 3/8 from where it is supposed to sit.

Any advice? Thinking of making a thicker steering shaft bushing. To space the steering shaft forward. Thanks in advance.

jaysgottaredtop

^ The steering shaft has a splined section halfway between the rubber guibo thingy and the u-joint. This section is intended to collapse/slide into itself in the event of an accident. You can just slide that section apart and your u-joint will reach the rack just fine.

Hard part is getting it to break loose and slide since it hasn't slid since being assembled 20+ yrs ago.

The way I did it was by unbolting the u-joint and guibo, clamping the steering shaft in a vice, spraying the splines with PB Blaster, and tapping/pulling the halves apart.

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zbarsuglia

I will get on this as soon as I finish extending my lcas

I APPRECIATE the help!! 14 gold plated pesos for you sir

Stein180sx

You will need to use allen head cap bolts.

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mr.nismo.

You sir, are a boss. I would rep you if I could. Thank you very much.

Which ones are for the calipers/struts? There should be 10 if my math is correct.

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Stein180sx

Got extras for just in case.

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Croustibat

Hi there, i cannot find info on installing a z33 steering rack in an s13 around. What does it require ? I may need to change the steering rack on my s13 since it is making some not-so-nice noises (running keisler knuckles on second pickup). Also, since it is the second one that makes these in a couple of years, i figure moving the steering rack forward might be a good idea too ...

I might get a g25-550 on the car, so the exhaust needs to be custom. Anything that lets more room for it will be welcome.

Do you have some pics of that rack installed in the car ?

Thanks

Razi

Do you guys ever get clunking noises at the rack when you shake the steering wheel aggressively?

Mine used to make noises like this, but it seems like it's gotten louder after my knuckles.

Jorgs_7

Yes.

I kinda figured it was the lash in the rack pinion itself,

e30gangsta

Hey guys I know most do this but I'm curious if there's any knuckle's that do not. Do you guys know of any knuckle set-up that does not extend the lca, add track width, or neg camber? Is it even possible? I had the gktech bolt on ones but they pushed my wheels out +25mm. I'm looking for something that has some sort of improvement, but without increasing my track width/lca. The primary reason I'm looking for something like this is because I'm on stock fenders and I don't want to run -7 camber just to drive around. Thanks.

mr.nismo.

I'm assuming youre talking about the bolt on roll center correction adapter. It lists that it pushes the wheel out 25mm (because of that style of correction). You need to get full replacement knuckles. Also, lower control arm selection will determine how much track width you will get. As far as negative camber, it all depends on wheel/tire combo, desired ride height, and having coils with enough adjustment to correct negative camber. I ended up getting T3 lower control arms because I needed to stay stock arm length.

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derass

You can get a bit of extra angle from either tie-rod spacers, or a modded knuckle.

However, if you have wide front wheels and tires, they will probably rub on the frame at full lock. That is where longer LCAs come into play. I had S13 +40mm LCAs. Started at -9* camber, maxed out the adjustment at -5* and left it there.

If I were to do it again, I would have got adjustable LCAs instead of modding the stock ones. Then I would have been able to dial in just the right amount of extra LCA length to give me frame clearance at full-lock, without all of the extra camber. With my +40mm LCAs I had more than 1" of clearance at full-lock. I could have reduced this and had less camber. Probably the -3* I had with stock LCAs.

Another option would be to modify the bump stops on the stock LCAs. You could have modded knuckles, and then just limit the steering angle before the tire rubs the frame. This would avoid having to add LCA length, and as a result, camber.

e30gangsta

Yeah I hear you guys I appreciate all the help/info. The t3 adjustable lcas look dope. I guess I just gotta figure out what knuckle I want to run and go with those t3 adjustable lca's so that I can minimize the amount of camber I would have to run. Thanks for the help.

tuzzio

Sounds like you want the GKtech Grip knuckles.

derass

I suppose this all depends on why he wants a different knuckle: for more steering angle, for roll-center correction, or for both. He never specified.

ka-titties

Hey y'all, I've got a few steering-related items for sale in case you're interested, considering that's what most of y'all are in this thread for.

SPL outer tie rods
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=657879
PBM inner tie rods
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=657878
GKTECH offset tie rod spacers
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=657877

jared420sx

All of you kids be thankful for this thread.
🙏🏼

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e30gangsta

More angle is what I would like, if there is some rc correction thrown in as well that would be sweet.

mr.nismo.

So I just bolted my stuff up. Well tried to. The lower ear does not allow the caliper bracket to line up. What did you grind down? Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Stein180sx

Some of the bracket where the caliper mounts up on the lower ear I believe.

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Stein180sx

Hoping there is still enough meat on the bracket. We shall see. I will just try and keep an eye out for any stress cracks.

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mr.nismo.

I messaged Greg to see what I can take off from the knuckle. I'm hoping to just take little off both. I'd be worried about taking it all off just one with how much force goes through that connection.

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PoorMans180SX

Already digging these Geomaster 3's

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D-Clem

Hell yea, interested in some feedback on them. I’ve not heard good things about the rear so far

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PoorMans180SX

I'm afraid I won't be able to tell you much about the rear:



Although I do know they did re-design it to actually be compatible with Z/R rear brakes, as the first batch was not.

This is the angle that's possible on my setup. 235/40/17, 17x8.25+20. 50mm extended arms. I had do a lot of caressing with a BFH on the frame rail to get here.



And with a 265/35/18 on a 18x9.5+15, it just scrubs a little on the frame.



Probably not going to be able to keep this much angle sadly. Right now it looks like I have about -7* of camber, which I'd like to reduce to around four or five. We'll see how it all sorts out.

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Bnr32gtr

Dclem what did u hear about the gk tech rear knuckles? I have a set only got 1 event on them but them seam quit awesome. I kno they don't work well if u want to run tons of rear camber like -3* or more. Just curious to what u hear/ or problems

mr.nismo.

Anyone with gk techs rear knuckles have an issue with heavy static toe in? Even with my toe arm fully pulled in, it's still bad. I have the eccentric lockouts, but I feel like I may have to put them back in for the toe arm.

Edit: even with the eccentric, it's still fucked up. Am I missing something here??

Traction rod - 220mm
LCA - OEM length (front pickup moved straight down 25mm)
Camber - 330mm
Toe - 345mm (w/ arm/eccentric fully pulled in)


Edit #2: I'm EXTRA special and should really double check my measurements. (LCA'S were most definitely not at OEM length)


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tuzzio

You're missing a cotter pin.

mr.nismo.

I haven't tightened down the axle nut yet, but good eye.

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Mister.E

Set traction rods to 212mm then adjust camber and toe. This was what I was told. I haven’t tried to align the car yet.


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