Connor420

I have an 1991 240sx Sr20det red top Just recently got it tuned. A couple weeks after I was driving home from work It was raining and I did a couple burnouts and pulls before getting on the highway the car felt just fine an then I get on the highway just cruising not hitting it or nothing and about 5 to 7 miles down the i I feel like a hiccup I let off the gas and try to accelerate and nothing happend so I downshifted and still couldn’t accelerate but when I down shifted into 3rd while getting over to get to the side of the i I heard this little pop than a slight hiss then when I get out of the car I pop the hood and the ignitor chip was smoking so I went to take it out an burned the s*** outta my hand an then I got it off and looked at it and it had like a bubble near the bottom of the chip and a hole in that an that’s where the smoke was coming from... luckily I had an extra ignitor chip on me so I let my engine cool down and then put that chip in and drove her home. ever since then she still gets super hot even after just being turned on by the time the cars warmed up the ignitor chip gets extreamly hot. Even after the new ignitor chip i bought it still gets hot. I’ve looked on other threads and couldn’t find the problem just it was my wiring harness, it was my ecu, it was my coil packs, i just replaced all of that before my tune so it can’t be any of that. I just put in p2m coil packs, pnp mega squirt2 ecu, Cas, wiring specialties wiring harness oem, ignitor chip, I was told to check my grounds an my coil packs so I sanded down all my grounds in my engine bay and didn’t make a difference than I checked my coil packs they were a lil hot too but not bad and the cars not running like shit it’s just holds back a little bit so I don’t think the coils are bad. But I just can’t find out what’s wrong with it I checked continuity and only has it going to the ignitor chip not coming out the other side of the chip on the wires but the coil packs have continuity too so idfk... Any Help Will Be Greatly Appreciated

OnTheChip

The dwell spec on those coils is 2.0ms which is about 1ms shorter than stock at cruise rpm.

This is the stock dwell vs. rpm table:

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NismotronicSA - Speed-Density Tuning for Nissans

jedi03

I'm running enthalpy tune personally and I put large CPU heatsink on it to help...will keep an eye on this as my longterm is to eliminate it and put LS coils on...

Connor420

You just put one on it? And how’d you wire it to work because I might try that if it gets it to run longer without getting too hot and blowing

jedi03

I didn't wire a fan on it, just air cooled...did the thermal paste, think thermal tape would have helped better, and used mechanics wire to hold it nice and tight against it! still gets warm but I know its got better cooling capability now!

Connor420

Yea I’m going to grab some tomorrow after work and see if that helps any


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Kingtal0n

Sounds like a configuration issue. I've had issues similar to this on say volkswagon VR6 engines with the coils 'going high' or 'going low' (an option in the MS2) and dwell related... it often comes down to the coil settings in the computer.

This is the main reason I stick to Power FC L-jetro units for 500~rwhp sr20det or less. They are setup to work with OEM parts and do just fine... pretty cheap too... I got my last S14 sr PFC for $350 from ebay.

Connor420

Ok I’m going to look into that... and the thermal tape didn’t work just took about a minute longer to get as hot


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jedi03

sorry thermal tape and mechanics wire...I agree it gets to hot to stay by itself but the heat transfer is much better...king I think that's a great point on the coil settings

Connor420

I told my tuner to check that out with the dwell settings and so far that looked like the problem and a Ground or 2 they?ve changed it and said they had it on for 2 hours continuous and driving it around for more than 30 minutes for a couple days and says it didn?t blow so hopefully that?s it