xiaphin

Tried installing my PBM downpipe today but a no go. Pipe is hitting bell housing and bottom of car. So I tried putting on the greddy... no good either... stock unit didnt fit either. All 3 were hitting the bellhousing. Thinking that the FP manifold doesnt put the turbo in stock location and needs to be spaced out about half inch or so. Took some measurements from block and firewall. Could somebody measure the location of stock turbo with stock manifold, that would be nice. Took some pics.

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2018 Audi RS 3 | Unitronic Stage 1 ECU and Stage 2 TCU tune

Om1kron

PBM Mentioned a few aftermarket manifolds will make the downpipe touch the bellhousing, only way to fix it really is to cut the downpipe and modify it and have it re-welded. Or put the stock manifold back on.

Will cost you more to modify or replace the manifold than it will to fix the downpipe.

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Wayne

Landers

depending on what mani you have the stock unit may flow better, and make better power

btw that DP is boss as fuck

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d-faction.com

fliprayzin240sx

Thats what I was gonna ask...what manifold do you have. Try swapping for the stock manifold for now and see if everything will bolt up.

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Booost

I've heard the stock manifolds are better for low end torque too...

Okinawandrifter87

Try putting the stock manifold back on. Better for lower end torque and T2 setups. You gain HP but lose torque with a aftermarket manifold. If you still want a little more hp but want the torque of the stock manifold just hone (spelling?) out the stock manifold to have it a little more free flowing and you'll solve power and fitment all at the same time. Or if you don't want to do that you can try putting on a OEM S15 stock turbo manifold. I've heard those work just as good.

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Driftphreak87

xiaphin

The thing that bothers me is that not only did the PBM not fit but either did the Greddy elbow or stock unit. Gonna contact Forced Performance today. Hopefully they can shed some light on the situation. Hopefully all is needed is a spacer on the manifold off the head spacing it out or between the T25 inlet and manifold spacing it down.

Good idea on bolting the stock manni on. Might try this after work. I could compare turbo locations and measurements by doing that. Why didnt I think of that.

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2018 Audi RS 3 | Unitronic Stage 1 ECU and Stage 2 TCU tune

xiaphin

Sounds like there needs to be a thread letting people know which manifolds the PBM Cobra Downpipe will fit, direct bolt on. I know that OM3GA over on Nico couldnt get it to work with the Tomei manifold either.

Breifly talked to FP about the situation and they said sounds like something is wrong with the manifold. So I'll let yall know how it plays out.


Manifold is a Forced Performance SS Manifold. http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Nissan-Exhaust

Also FP Big 28 Turbo

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2018 Audi RS 3 | Unitronic Stage 1 ECU and Stage 2 TCU tune

kalypso123

big 28's do well with the stocker mani.

Good luck :0)

xiaphin

Put on the stock manifold and all three downpipes bolted right up. Stock manifold sits lower and out from engine more.

Finally spoke with Forced Performance and they said that no one has called them about having issues with the turbo manifold, granted they've only sold 47 of them since 2006. Find it hard to believe that I would be the only one that had an issue and called them about it. Gonna do some measuring and see if I feel like running a spacer on the head and in between manifold and turbo inlet flange. But if what yall say is true about the stock manifold I might just run it... but its so damned ugly.

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2018 Audi RS 3 | Unitronic Stage 1 ECU and Stage 2 TCU tune

lazysk8er2

which part of the downpipe hits the bellhousing can you take a pic?

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xiaphin

If you take a look in the first pic of the first post the PBM is hitting the bellhousing right before the flex part, exact location as the Greddy in the 2nd pic. Say its about midway on the housing right above where the 4 inch flat section is. Kinda hard to take a good pic under car or in the engine bay. Has anyone run this manifold? or know of anybody who has successfully?

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2018 Audi RS 3 | Unitronic Stage 1 ECU and Stage 2 TCU tune

xiaphin

Compared FP to the stocker manni and took some measurements. Distance from the exhaust flange to the inlet flange on the stock was 4.25", FP 4.75". Put manifold exhaust flange down on table, used a straight edge on flat surface of inlet flange. Then measured distance from straight edge on table to exhaust flange mounting hole. Stock was 1.7055", FP 1.459".





With the FP manifold the turbo was sitting half inch closer to the engine and a quarter inch higher. No wonder the PBM was hitting the bellhousing and underside of car.

On a side note. Does Greddy actually think u can run their turbo studs and get a lock washer and nut to fit?!? I'm not comfortable with only 1.5 threads holding my turbo elbow on.

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2018 Audi RS 3 | Unitronic Stage 1 ECU and Stage 2 TCU tune

codyace

Performance > Looks, all day everyday

I wouldn't waste the time (not to mention you'd have a really fun time keeping it seale) making a spacer for a tubular crackafold brother...man ohman lets save you now before you end up getting super frustrated having it not work.

Stock manifold bar none, hands down, THE BEST manifold for any t2/stock location turbo out there...in both power production, response, and torque. On top of that, anythign aftermarket is designed around the factory piece as well, so it will all fit then...plus it's also cast - no cracks!


In regard to the greddy studs, they def do not work...I just got longer ones from mcmaster and made sure to use some conical lock nutes on it

EDIT: Thanks for actually going about the issue deductivly and taking photographs for future users! Awesome to know some of the newer/lower post count guys aren't completly lost...drinks on me brother! Good stuff

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Om1kron

damn were you the one who pm'ed me the other day about the nuts on his pbm manifold only threading like 1.5 turns, holy fuck that's ridiculous. the oem t25 has two studs on the ext housing and the rest is just long 45mm m8 bolts I think it was from autozone I used to bolt her up. I have to re-torque them every now and again but I haven't had any major bolt backout leak issues with the t25.

As of late the cat however has been coming loose from the bottom of the dp, I need a better bolt solution in that area now. Cause lifting my car up is not the business to tighten those bolts.

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Wayne

codyace

Stainless hardware with stainless deformed thread/conical locking nuts. Done and done.

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xiaphin

Couldnt find stainless studs on Mcmaster... well metric anyways

Thanks for the boost... ended up running three factory studs and two bolts. Using the stock manifold. Everything fits like a glove now. Post pics later.

Regarding the low post count. I read, search, read more and if I have a problem or discover an issue that will help other users I'll post. Check out my build in my signature, its over at Nico
(Should have put it up on here since I get way more responses and input) just might move it.

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2018 Audi RS 3 | Unitronic Stage 1 ECU and Stage 2 TCU tune

innovation

Should probably move that thread over here. Some ahem users dont care for NICO too much.

e1_griego

Nope, that was me haha.

I ended up restudding the turbine so I could get the studs to protrude through some copper distortion head nuts.

Beat on the car for half of the weekend (autox and drift) and no problems so far (at least related to downpipe lol).

codyace

I sourced mine locally, but that's odd MMC didn't have it...man I love that site!

Seems like you're def headed in the right direction...I hear ya about reading/searching till your head hurts...I still do that as I hate making new threads hehe.


Yep those copper nuts work really well...I remember when guys first starting doing some bigger ATP turbos for 1.8 cars, they were the onyl thing that worked (and that were affordable). Now the stainless ones certainly help too, and can be (seemingly) found everywhere. Win win!

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BoxerJackJohnson

Wowwzers thats sketchy, anywho the copper nuts work good but ususally the stud will still back out. so jus pray it doesn't

xiaphin

Thought that the idea of a stud was that the nut would come loose before the stud would come out. Also less likely to over torque and snap a stud when installing compared to a bolt being installed in the same location.

When I removed the studs from the turbo I was surprised to see the same thread on each side of the studs. M8x1.25. Figured the side of stud installed into the housing would have a coarser thread, M8x1.25 and the side that nut threaded on would be M8x1.0. This would almost guarantee that the studs would never come loose. Doesn't solve the problem of them being too short or nuts coming loose.

Thoughts?

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2018 Audi RS 3 | Unitronic Stage 1 ECU and Stage 2 TCU tune

Razi

You could use some locking tabs, didn't they come on the turbos from the factory?
Or you could use bolts and do this:

Drilled through the bolts, tied with steel wire, so they don't come loose.

Or if you're baller, use jetnuts!

xiaphin

Had the locknuts but couldnt find them. Moved my build thread over here - http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/340497...-dd-build.html

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2018 Audi RS 3 | Unitronic Stage 1 ECU and Stage 2 TCU tune