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Old 08-30-2011, 11:12 AM   #31
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From what I could tell about the piece when I first got it I'm fairly sure its 100% stainless. I actually spoke with Tomei Friday and they intend to warranty the claim. Question is now, should I take advantage of that at their expenses with this likely to happen again or reweld it, recoat it, and have it on the motor in a couple days; I'm looking at 2 weeks + if I follow up with the claim.
Tough call to make for sure. I wonder if they'd cover the cost to have the stainless welded locally....
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:32 AM   #32
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Tough call to make for sure. I wonder if they'd cover the cost to have the stainless welded locally....
Nope, because they couldnt prove it broke, thus they wont warrantee it. Every company out there usually has to have proof of failure to do anything with the parts. And speeaking from experience in working at a big name company in the warrantee department. They will try to give you the run around for a while until you finally give up on trying to get your money back or the product fixed/replaced. Thats why they pay people to talk to you on the phone.
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Old 08-30-2011, 05:55 PM   #33
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Dude it might be your motor or your climate or some wierd shit. I had an ebay/megan last for 7 years without issue. My mazworx manifolds are absolutely flawless and I would assume yours is the same... Its not the manifold if you have had so many crack... is your harmonic balance in good condition? Do you rev your motor super high?
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Old 08-30-2011, 06:57 PM   #34
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Dude it might be your motor or your climate or some wierd shit. I had an ebay/megan last for 7 years without issue. My mazworx manifolds are absolutely flawless and I would assume yours is the same... Its not the manifold if you have had so many crack... is your harmonic balance in good condition? Do you rev your motor super high?
The engine runs fine. Its a BPU Redtop running 1bar. The engine itself is factory, Its never been messed with internal wise. Its tuned Via power FC with the revlimit at 7100rpm. Climate wise im no different from Florida where mazworx is based at.


The only part ive ever really had crack was the wastegate. The runner on the mazworx manifold had a bad weld, That is why it too is cracked.
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:32 AM   #35
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Nope, because they couldnt prove it broke, thus they wont warrantee it. Every company out there usually has to have proof of failure to do anything with the parts. And speeaking from experience in working at a big name company in the warrantee department. They will try to give you the run around for a while until you finally give up on trying to get your money back or the product fixed/replaced. Thats why they pay people to talk to you on the phone.
I've had companies cover products to be repaired locally, so long as you provide reciepts and prove of it all (pictures etc etc). Not saying he should expect it, but I've personally had this work out for me.

With that said, I 100% agree with what you said though, my experience isn't the norm, but that's not to make it impossible.
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Old 09-01-2011, 07:27 AM   #36
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Tough call to make for sure. I wonder if they'd cover the cost to have the stainless welded locally....
they didn't exactly offer it but I told them I would be okay with a repair and that I would not require a replacement kit (with the header wrap/studs/etc..) but I would need the damaged one back if they wouldn't claim it. I get the feeling they're just going to send me another one off the shelf. I would repair it myself if I had decided to keep it. Miller Syncrowave FTW!
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Old 09-01-2011, 07:32 AM   #37
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they didn't exactly offer it but I told them I would be okay with a repair and that I would not require a replacement kit (with the header wrap/studs/etc..) but I would need the damaged one back if they wouldn't claim it. I get the feeling they're just going to send me another one off the shelf. I would repair it myself if I had decided to keep it. Miller Syncrowave FTW!
'But it's not pretty, welds must not be good'

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Old 09-01-2011, 07:38 AM   #38
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^Ya I doubt I can replicate their quality but I'll assure you they won't split... Don't hate on my bugger welds
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:49 AM   #39
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Think its time I bring this thread back to life.

I ended up getting my manifold back Then this happened,






The manifold that was repaired did crack again. Mazworx got another one made and had it next day aired to me. I'll post up when it arrives.

I'm looking at a total of pretty much a week down time, Which isn't bad and the shipping was paid for this time. Hopefully what ever reason for my old one cracking doesn't follow with the new one.

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Old 11-20-2011, 08:52 AM   #40
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So they fixed it, and broke even worst. Fucking awesome. I pretty much just took it in the butt since they have no record of me buying the manifold and refused to warranty/back their part. I will never buy any Mazworx product ever again...

My situation was pretty shitty, I sold the manifold for $450, didnt realized it was cracked. Since I they have no record of me buying it from them and the fact I sold it pretty much told me my shits out of luck. Thankfully, the buyer agreed to keep it after I gave him $100 back and use the money to reweld the manifold.
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:31 AM   #41
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I think their idea of just 'throwing more weld on it' to fix it...ey yi yi.
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:38 AM   #42
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Just wondering if those who've had manifolds crack on them (which is by no means uncommon) have EGT readings and / or flex pipes in their downpipes / exhaust.

The reason i ask is that the exhaust is very heavy, and the motor moving around or exhaust moving around can have a good amount of strain on the manifold... also, the higher your EGTs are, the more likely that the metal in the manifold will get brittle...

Also to that note, increasing the stiffness & mounting security of the exhaust would help, i'm sure..

just my .02
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:46 PM   #43
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I had a peakboost that would crack all the time especially after time attack sessions, we welded some big triangle shapped braces around the collector to the main tubes on all sides and stopped it once and for all. Most of the tube collector or tube manifolds for top mount need some sort of additional bracing even after coming out of the box on most cars, especially if you have solid motor mounts or a really rigid chassis on the car...
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:51 PM   #44
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I had a peakboost that would crack all the time especially after time attack sessions, we welded some big triangle shapped braces around the collector to the main tubes on all sides and stopped it once and for all. Most of the tube collector or tube manifolds for top mount need some sort of additional bracing even after coming out of the box on most cars, especially if you have solid motor mounts or a really rigid chassis on the car...
I've always found it funny how Turbo 911 manifolds bash off the ground at track days, and last forever...yet a bullshit 4 cylinder manifold on street cars crack.

The difference is fabrication and parts. Internet dweeebs (not you steve, just using it loosely) fall into this hard on attraction to stainless steel and concave welds, which are shit.

With that said, turbo bracing/support is key. Even simple rod ends into a piece of threaded rod is enough.
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:26 AM   #45
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I've got a hybrid-dynamics that has never given me any problems, I thought the Mazworx manifold would be based off that since Jay made a move down there (closed up H-D and joined Mazworx) and shortly after they started stocking their own kit.
I guess something was lost in translation.
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:35 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Darren View Post
Just wondering if those who've had manifolds crack on them (which is by no means uncommon) have EGT readings and / or flex pipes in their downpipes / exhaust.

The reason i ask is that the exhaust is very heavy, and the motor moving around or exhaust moving around can have a good amount of strain on the manifold... also, the higher your EGTs are, the more likely that the metal in the manifold will get brittle...

Also to that note, increasing the stiffness & mounting security of the exhaust would help, i'm sure..

just my .02
Stainless steel gets softer at higher temps, not more "brittle." Most metals aren't considered to undergo brittle failure anyway at room temp or above...

EGTs don't really play a huge role in it either.

Eliminating stress from the manifold is the way to do it.


But I will say all these horror stories are enough to keep me with my ported and header wrapped stocker. Cheap, and I never have to worry about it.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:11 PM   #47
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But I will say all these horror stories are enough to keep me with my ported and header wrapped stocker. Cheap, and I never have to worry about it.
Stock Manifold Fanboys, we are the 1%!

-Seriously-
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Old 11-24-2011, 07:21 PM   #48
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Or you could buy one of my manifolds. Haven't had 1 crack.
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Old 11-24-2011, 07:55 PM   #49
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has anyone ever heard of a full-race manifold cracking
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:31 PM   #50
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turbo bracing/support is key. Even simple rod ends into a piece of threaded rod is enough.
exactly.

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Old 11-25-2011, 04:35 PM   #51
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Stock Manifold Fanboys, we are the 1%!

-Seriously-
^ ^
If you dont own a shop and a tig welder, I might avoid anything but the OEM turbo sr20det manifolds on your daily.

That said, I was looking around my friend's shop the other day and I found this raw @$$ clean S15 setup. I was all "omfg wtfzorz I found gold! " and they are all standing around scratching their heads whispering "this guy is crazy..."
check this clean casting!


nevermind the fact its still attached to the 28. those come and go but manifolds like this... priceless!
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Old 11-25-2011, 05:20 PM   #52
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if you put a flex in your dp it will fix this issue

I have had a megan manifold for 4 years now, daily driven, and several trips from 0H to FL
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