SR20 Z33 6 speed swap - Page 4 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

K_style · 03-03-2014, 09:40 PM

I like the custom heat shield you have. haha

Good work!

battosaii930 · 03-04-2014, 10:19 PM

lol thanks

im having an issue right now though, im trying to wire in my sensors i got the Map Sensor all wired up then i move on to the AIT use pin 29 for ground and pin 26 for signal ok simple i tapped the ground on pin 29 and then i see pin 26 on the ECU connector not being used at all on the Wireing specialties harness so i try to use one of the AEM supplied pins i crimped it and it will not go in the plug. i pulled one of the pins out from the wireing specialties harness and the the pin was different from the AEM and my OEM nissan pin. I called up Wireing specialties and they were nice enough to ship me a set of pins for free i just need to wait till it gets here i need it for my AIT and Boost controller to be wired in to the EMS

ultimateirving · 03-05-2014, 11:32 AM

Can you guys tell me the length of the Driveshafts you had made, And what you paid roughly. Im trying to price them in AZ and figure out whats the best for the money, I know some guy said he had the oem that was modified to fit, and others had custom made.

THank you. My trans should be back from the machine chop this week.

battosaii930 · 03-06-2014, 08:54 AM

Well I got my drive shaft from shaft masters aluminum for $387 shipped.

With the z33 tranny and the j30 diff I had to use the abs drive shaft wich is weird cause with the stock sr tranny I used the stock non abs shaft anyway the length of the shaft is 50 5/8" inches long

maverickmotorsports · 03-06-2014, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brndck

I was thinking the same thing. Especially since a number of other people (George marstanovic primarily) have done this swap and either not had these issues or just completely forgot to mention it.

Just wanted to chime in. I completely didn't see this thread but I am more than happy to answer any questions.

We've used our adapter kits on the following clutches.

Exedy Hyper Single
Exedy Twin
Exedy stage 1-2
Competition twin
Carbonetic/ATS single
SPEC (any stage)
ACT (any stage)
SPEC twin
ORC single
OS Giken Single
RPS
XTD(customer used it.....not us)

There might be more out there from customers I haven't heard from but that covers quite a bit of the clutches available. All worked great and engaged like they should.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Upetr

I agree.

The 350z shaft has extra length from the end to the splines (I measured about 11,5mm) due to the 350z having a dual mass flywheel. But you can only take off so much from the bell housing before it will get structurally too weak. I took 13mm off and you could probably get away with a little more but not much more. George's plate is 10mm which basically puts the input shaft as deep as the stock sr20det one into the crank.

Hope battosaii930 gets a resolution though. One possibility is to space out the flywheel but my advice would be to get his money back for his plate and get one from George as I doubt he will be able to remove a total of 19mm from the bellhousing to get the same penetration into the pilot bearing.

Otherwise - mill the plate to reduce the thickness a bit

Thanks for the feedback! Glad to hear its all working out. Our plate is thinner which allows for all the spacing to have a smaller stackup and allows better engagement of the splines and TOB.

We've had very good success with using the KA/SR carrier. You could try the 30mm one mentioned but it will get the TOB 6mm closer. We try to keep ~.200" away from the pressure plate to allow the fingers to grow as the clutch wears. This is what we were told by multiple clutch companies and is an industry standard.

Lastly please make sure you are using a matched clutch fork and pivot ball setup. The Z33 box went through a change from a long pivot to short and the clutch fork was changed accordingly. Using mismatched parts will cause engagement issues.

As always feel free to call me anytime and discuss and questions or concerns about the swap. I've sold 100+ of these and done a bunch locally with great results.

ultimateirving · 03-06-2014, 12:18 PM

Awesome info Thanks George.
Can't wait to get mine back from you, so I can get started.

Quote:

Originally Posted by george

Just wanted to chime in. I completely didn't see this thread but I am more than happy to answer any questions.

We've used our adapter kits on the following clutches.

Exedy Hyper Single
Exedy Twin
Exedy stage 1-2
Competition twin
Carbonetic/ATS single
SPEC (any stage)
ACT (any stage)
SPEC twin
ORC single
OS Giken Single
RPS
XTD(customer used it.....not us)

There might be more out there from customers I haven't heard from but that covers quite a bit of the clutches available. All worked great and engaged like they should.

Thanks for the feedback! Glad to hear its all working out. Our plate is thinner which allows for all the spacing to have a smaller stackup and allows better engagement of the splines and TOB.

We've had very good success with using the KA/SR carrier. You could try the 30mm one mentioned but it will get the TOB 6mm closer. We try to keep ~.200" away from the pressure plate to allow the fingers to grow as the clutch wears. This is what we were told by multiple clutch companies and is an industry standard.

Lastly please make sure you are using a matched clutch fork and pivot ball setup. The Z33 box went through a change from a long pivot to short and the clutch fork was changed accordingly. Using mismatched parts will cause engagement issues.

As always feel free to call me anytime and discuss and questions or concerns about the swap. I've sold 100+ of these and done a bunch locally with great results.

battosaii930 · 03-07-2014, 10:20 PM

ok i have the engine harness all hooked up but im having a small issue. Does anyone know how to deal with AEM EMS? i was trying to upload the base calibration but it kept saying it cant cause the engine is running and says 80 rpm on the live data with the engine off, i had to unplug the cas for it to read 0 rpm and install the base calibration.

i have no idea if it will start or not my battery was at 10v for sitting so long so i have it hooked up to a battery tender charging it for the night.

ultimateirving · 03-07-2014, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by battosaii930

ok i have the engine harness all hooked up but im having a small issue. Does anyone know how to deal with AEM EMS? i was trying to upload the base calibration but it kept saying it cant cause the engine is running and says 80 rpm on the live data with the engine off, i had to unplug the cas for it to read 0 rpm and install the base calibration.

i have no idea if it will start or not my battery was at 10v for sitting so long so i have it hooked up to a battery tender charging it for the night.

Low voltage can cause sensors to do funky things. let it charge and see if it helps the situation.

battosaii930 · 03-08-2014, 03:45 PM

sorted some wireing issues with my starter and i was getting the wrong values because the base map for my engine was using a denso map sensor and no AIT i have both aem counterparts i switched them in the wizard and now i get correct values i wish i could find real base calibrations for the 6601 s13 sr but there is none the only calibration available is already set up for an engine with a map sensor and 550cc injectors the AEM version 1 had multiple SR base caliblrations

*TheRealSy90* · 03-10-2014, 02:09 PM

I've got a z33 trans and George's adapter plate on the way supposed to show up today actually.

Is there any info out there for using the HR transmission? The adapter plate has already been modified for it, but i'm wondering about the throw out bearing being as the HR trans has an internal slave. I heard a rumor that you can bolt on the external slave instead? Would the internal slave not work with an sr clutch?

ultimateirving · 03-10-2014, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

I've got a z33 trans and George's adapter plate on the way supposed to show up today actually.

Is there any info out there for using the HR transmission? The adapter plate has already been modified for it, but i'm wondering about the throw out bearing being as the HR trans has an internal slave. I heard a rumor that you can bolt on the external slave instead? Would the internal slave not work with an sr clutch?

I'm going to meet George to get my trans and adapter/parts today. He just had a custom bushing made for the hr trans like mine and yours. So all you need is the bushing and it's an easier install than the older model trans.

*TheRealSy90* · 03-10-2014, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

I'm going to meet George to get my trans and adapter/parts today. He just had a custom bushing made for the hr trans like mine and yours. So all you need is the bushing and it's an easier install than the older model trans.

Awesome! Who do I have to get ahold of to get the bushing? So do you retain the internal slave? Also i'm using an ORC Super Single clutch and they use a slightly smaller diameter throw out bearing, but people have used the normal sr tob with it also, just would make the clutch pedal a bit stiffer than it's supposed to be. I'm sure that I won't be able to use the ORC tob.

ultimateirving · 03-10-2014, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Awesome! Who do I have to get ahold of to get the bushing? So do you retain the internal slave? Also i'm using an ORC Super Single clutch and they use a slightly smaller diameter throw out bearing, but people have used the normal sr tob with it also, just would make the clutch pedal a bit stiffer than it's supposed to be. I'm sure that I won't be able to use the ORC tob.

George was the one who told me. So send him a pm or text.

battosaii930 · 03-10-2014, 07:08 PM

got all my gauges wired up

ultimateirving · 03-10-2014, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Awesome! Who do I have to get ahold of to get the bushing? So do you retain the internal slave? Also i'm using an ORC Super Single clutch and they use a slightly smaller diameter throw out bearing, but people have used the normal sr tob with it also, just would make the clutch pedal a bit stiffer than it's supposed to be. I'm sure that I won't be able to use the ORC tob.

Here is the picture of the bushing/spacer, just got it all tonight.

*TheRealSy90* · 03-11-2014, 08:00 AM

I'm guessing that will allow you to retain the internal slave cylinder and put it farther forward so it will reach the pressure plate? Have you figured out how to plumb the internal slave into the clutch line? I noticed there's two lines on it instead of one.

ultimateirving · 03-11-2014, 02:59 PM

And my six speed swap begins! I'm gonna update with any progress or hang ups
So we keep this thread on topic. And to help out others who attempt this of course.

*TheRealSy90* · 03-11-2014, 05:05 PM

Ordered the HR tob spacer from Maverick Motorsports.

Can somebody make a shifter for me? The previous owner cut the stock shifter up and I think I have all the pieces I could send to someone, but idk what to do from there or what else is needed. Does the factory shifter have a reverse lockout or is that internal of the transmission? I was able to shift the selector from 5th to reverse.

battosaii930 · 03-14-2014, 10:56 AM

drove around the block and everything is smooth but i will say damn that trans is loud i still need to cover up the shifter hole though

battosaii930 · 03-14-2014, 11:08 PM

shes running

i had to seal the hole so i used the factory metal ring and bottom rubber and trimmed it

then i covered it all with dynamat and the sound is not barely noticable!

here she is with all the interior put back together, i have to trim the back of the shifter bezel so i can actually use 2nd 4th and 6th but i just wanted it to look prety for the pic.

battosaii930 · 03-15-2014, 12:28 PM

Normal slow driving you won't really see too much of a difference between the 6 speed and the 5 speed but when you get on it hard 3rd gear is amazing, I have the aem boost solenoid all hooked up but I wasn't using it yet I only ran the stock 10lbs on the 2871r I can't wait to get it properly dyno tuned

*TheRealSy90* · 03-19-2014, 07:42 AM

Figure out anything for the speedo yet? I was thinking about using kouki s13 front knuckles that have the abs sensors and wiring them to the dakota converter.

onehundredoctane · 03-19-2014, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Figure out anything for the speedo yet? I was thinking about using kouki s13 front knuckles that have the abs sensors and wiring them to the dakota converter.

ABS signal from the front hubs is a bad idea. You want the speed signal coming from the rears since you're rear wheel drive.

battosaii930 · 03-19-2014, 09:24 AM

actually front hub abs is not a bad idea you will get actual speed versus rear wheel speed and you can use this to set up a traction control set up like i can with my AEM EMS and its a great system for dragracing but thats not what im going for.

im doing a bit of research on how im going to wire the Dakota digital to my j30 abs sensor but ill be sure to document how i did it, im just dealing with my tune for now though cause its running super rich im using about 5 bucks in gas every time i go out for test runs and its only 3-4 miles lol its running about 10.4 AFR at all loads

once i get that sorted out ill be wireing and testing more to see what works with the Dakota box

ultimateirving · 03-19-2014, 12:24 PM

My trans is mounted to the engine and ready for install!
And I was thinking about the Dakota digital but for a car that's not a daily driver it's easier to use the gps speed on my cell phone app or from a dash mounted gps unit, the cost of the Dakota wasn't worth it to me

Quote:

Originally Posted by battosaii930

actually front hub abs is not a bad idea you will get actual speed versus rear wheel speed and you can use this to set up a traction control set up like i can with my AEM EMS and its a great system for dragracing but thats not what im going for.

im doing a bit of research on how im going to wire the Dakota digital to my j30 abs sensor but ill be sure to document how i did it, im just dealing with my tune for now though cause its running super rich im using about 5 bucks in gas every time i go out for test runs and its only 3-4 miles lol its running about 10.4 AFR at all loads

once i get that sorted out ill be wireing and testing more to see what works with the Dakota box

Heres a picture for fun!

Late model z33 trans with the internal Concentric slave cylinder.
Also, i have the megan turbo elbow, and i had to grind the side of the trans bellhousing where the starter would connect on the Z. It didnt impact any of the mounting holes nor the integrity of the bellhousing.

rbs14kouki · 03-19-2014, 10:48 PM

My tuner had a gps speed sensor from autometer laying around !

He wired it to its aem ecu and it work number one on the laptop ! You would need a aim or racepak dash !!! Im not sure about the stock dash reading that gps

Ill be doing that on my car when my z33 trans is in

RaNMaN · 03-19-2014, 11:07 PM

Nice swap OP.

I'm fairly certain that most if not all GPS speedometers have an analog output, the stock 240 cluster needs an alternating current (AC) signal such as coming from an abs sensor. I get my speedometer reading from using an abs sensor then I slow down the signal and adjust it with a Dakota digital sgi-5, it's super easy to do and cheaper than most GPS units that I've seen. I like it, the signal never drops, you don't have to mount an antenna. Both ways work just letting you know.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

ultimateirving · 03-22-2014, 03:53 PM

Is anyone changing out their rear end gear ratio? What would be good for z33 trans and 350+hp sr.. I wonder

Black240Ct · 03-22-2014, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Is anyone changing out their rear end gear ratio? What would be good for z33 trans and 350+hp sr.. I wonder

I have a 4.36 with z33 trans. I'm very happy with it.

Having an issues now that my trans sits too low and scrapes on the ground. Gonna have to redo my trans mount. Hope I don't have issues hitting the trans tunnel

*TheRealSy90* · 03-22-2014, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

My trans is mounted to the engine and ready for install!
And I was thinking about the Dakota digital but for a car that's not a daily driver it's easier to use the gps speed on my cell phone app or from a dash mounted gps unit, the cost of the Dakota wasn't worth it.

Late model z33 trans with the internal Concentric slave cylinder.

Yeah I was just thinking, I'm going to get a daily driver before I do the trans swap anyways, so who cares I can just use a gps app when I need it.

Mind if I ask what clutch you are using on your sr? I'll be using an ORC 409D super single. George said someone has used his plate before with that clutch, but not with a internal slave trans. I got the slave spacer and everything so I'm hoping it all works out. Still trying to find a shifter.

03-05-2014, 11:32 AM	#93
ultimateirving Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: arizona Age: 33 Posts: 1,519 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Can you guys tell me the length of the Driveshafts you had made, And what you paid roughly. Im trying to price them in AZ and figure out whats the best for the money, I know some guy said he had the oem that was modified to fit, and others had custom made. THank you. My trans should be back from the machine chop this week. __________________ Z32 with lq4 swap Desert Street Scene \|\| Dssevents.com

03-11-2014, 02:59 PM	#107
ultimateirving Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: arizona Age: 33 Posts: 1,519 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	And my six speed swap begins! I'm gonna update with any progress or hang ups So we keep this thread on topic. And to help out others who attempt this of course. __________________ Z32 with lq4 swap Desert Street Scene \|\| Dssevents.com

03-19-2014, 10:48 PM	#116
rbs14kouki Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Montreal , Canada Age: 35 Posts: 817 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	My tuner had a gps speed sensor from autometer laying around ! He wired it to its aem ecu and it work number one on the laptop ! You would need a aim or racepak dash !!! Im not sure about the stock dash reading that gps Ill be doing that on my car when my z33 trans is in __________________ AV FABRICATION Built thread sr20vet s14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=535574

03-22-2014, 03:53 PM	#118
ultimateirving Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: arizona Age: 33 Posts: 1,519 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Is anyone changing out their rear end gear ratio? What would be good for z33 trans and 350+hp sr.. I wonder __________________ Z32 with lq4 swap Desert Street Scene \|\| Dssevents.com

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03-03-2014, 09:40 PM	#91
K_style Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 7,666 Trader Rating: (63) Rides Gallery: K_style Feedback Score: 63 reviews	I like the custom heat shield you have. haha Good work!

03-04-2014, 10:19 PM	#92
battosaii930 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: miami Age: 33 Posts: 112 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	lol thanks im having an issue right now though, im trying to wire in my sensors i got the Map Sensor all wired up then i move on to the AIT use pin 29 for ground and pin 26 for signal ok simple i tapped the ground on pin 29 and then i see pin 26 on the ECU connector not being used at all on the Wireing specialties harness so i try to use one of the AEM supplied pins i crimped it and it will not go in the plug. i pulled one of the pins out from the wireing specialties harness and the the pin was different from the AEM and my OEM nissan pin. I called up Wireing specialties and they were nice enough to ship me a set of pins for free i just need to wait till it gets here i need it for my AIT and Boost controller to be wired in to the EMS

03-06-2014, 08:54 AM	#94
battosaii930 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: miami Age: 33 Posts: 112 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Well I got my drive shaft from shaft masters aluminum for $387 shipped. With the z33 tranny and the j30 diff I had to use the abs drive shaft wich is weird cause with the stock sr tranny I used the stock non abs shaft anyway the length of the shaft is 50 5/8" inches long

03-07-2014, 10:20 PM	#97
battosaii930 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: miami Age: 33 Posts: 112 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ok i have the engine harness all hooked up but im having a small issue. Does anyone know how to deal with AEM EMS? i was trying to upload the base calibration but it kept saying it cant cause the engine is running and says 80 rpm on the live data with the engine off, i had to unplug the cas for it to read 0 rpm and install the base calibration. i have no idea if it will start or not my battery was at 10v for sitting so long so i have it hooked up to a battery tender charging it for the night.

03-08-2014, 03:45 PM	#99
battosaii930 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: miami Age: 33 Posts: 112 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	sorted some wireing issues with my starter and i was getting the wrong values because the base map for my engine was using a denso map sensor and no AIT i have both aem counterparts i switched them in the wizard and now i get correct values i wish i could find real base calibrations for the 6601 s13 sr but there is none the only calibration available is already set up for an engine with a map sensor and 550cc injectors the AEM version 1 had multiple SR base caliblrations

03-10-2014, 07:08 PM	#104
battosaii930 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: miami Age: 33 Posts: 112 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	got all my gauges wired up

03-14-2014, 10:56 AM	#109
battosaii930 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: miami Age: 33 Posts: 112 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	drove around the block and everything is smooth but i will say damn that trans is loud i still need to cover up the shifter hole though

03-14-2014, 11:08 PM	#110
battosaii930 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: miami Age: 33 Posts: 112 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	shes running i had to seal the hole so i used the factory metal ring and bottom rubber and trimmed it then i covered it all with dynamat and the sound is not barely noticable! here she is with all the interior put back together, i have to trim the back of the shifter bezel so i can actually use 2nd 4th and 6th but i just wanted it to look prety for the pic.

03-15-2014, 12:28 PM	#111
battosaii930 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: miami Age: 33 Posts: 112 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Normal slow driving you won't really see too much of a difference between the 6 speed and the 5 speed but when you get on it hard 3rd gear is amazing, I have the aem boost solenoid all hooked up but I wasn't using it yet I only ran the stock 10lbs on the 2871r I can't wait to get it properly dyno tuned

03-19-2014, 09:24 AM	#114
battosaii930 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: miami Age: 33 Posts: 112 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	actually front hub abs is not a bad idea you will get actual speed versus rear wheel speed and you can use this to set up a traction control set up like i can with my AEM EMS and its a great system for dragracing but thats not what im going for. im doing a bit of research on how im going to wire the Dakota digital to my j30 abs sensor but ill be sure to document how i did it, im just dealing with my tune for now though cause its running super rich im using about 5 bucks in gas every time i go out for test runs and its only 3-4 miles lol its running about 10.4 AFR at all loads once i get that sorted out ill be wireing and testing more to see what works with the Dakota box

03-19-2014, 11:07 PM	#117
RaNMaN Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Merritt Island, FL Age: 41 Posts: 155 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Nice swap OP. I'm fairly certain that most if not all GPS speedometers have an analog output, the stock 240 cluster needs an alternating current (AC) signal such as coming from an abs sensor. I get my speedometer reading from using an abs sensor then I slow down the signal and adjust it with a Dakota digital sgi-5, it's super easy to do and cheaper than most GPS units that I've seen. I like it, the signal never drops, you don't have to mount an antenna. Both ways work just letting you know. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk