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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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01-24-2019, 10:34 AM | #1 |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: New York
Age: 22
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240sx rust repair advice
Need help from anyone who has knowledge pertaining rust on the 240sx. My questions to you is this... Roughly how much would it cost to fix this? Is it worth it and how difficult is it to repair? I live in a tower and don't have a garage or have access to one. Therefore, i cannot weld the rust myself. I got multiple estimates from top body shops in my area. The estimates were all above 4500. The reason im asking is because the car is mint. Pictures are here http://s86.photobucket.com/user/Brie...?page=1&sort=1
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01-25-2019, 07:37 PM | #2 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Unless there’s something really special about that chassis I’d leave alone. Maybe wire brush it and spray it. I’m assuming there are other spots throughout the chassis?
By the time you really repair that you could’ve spent time and money on another chassis with no rust. They’re 300-700 in my area. That’s not a hard fix but it’s just not really worth it especially when there are bare non rusted chassis’ all over the place that you can go to years from now when that rust is worse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
01-29-2019, 07:01 PM | #3 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
sand and paint at most. no welding necessary (unless theres something I didn't notice)
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01-30-2019, 08:35 AM | #6 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2013
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I would think you could find some welders who can do that on the side for much cheaper. I would check your local facebook group.
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02-03-2019, 06:47 AM | #7 |
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Well here's the thing of why you're getting estimates of 4500. A guy in his driveway, would cut that brake line and patch it up after he welded a plate on from the wheel well side, spray some paint over it and call it a day. A legit body shop isn't going to half ass it like that. Engine would be removed, the brake line would be removed as a whole (no cutting it) and then you get into cutting out the old rust, welding in new metal, grinding, some light fiberglass work to blend it in, and then priming, painting, and clearing the engine bay side, undercoating the reverse side of it (wheel well side) and then reassembling everything.
The rail entails removing the seat, interior plastics, and peeling back the carpet that's directly over the rail. Replacing the rusted metal, body and paint work, then spraying cavity wax through the rail. Reinstall the interior, and give you a bill of 4500 for everything. If I were you, in your position, I would get some POR15, scrape off the lose rusted material, and brush on some POR15. Do this every few months (its quite runny and goes on thin) and just keep an eye on it. Luckily NY doesn't make a big deal about rust for state inspections (I grew up in NY). I work as a body tech and I've replaced A LOT of rust and I see this as your best bet. You're not going to sink 4500 into this repair, so just try to keep it at a minimum and slow it down the best you can.
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02-03-2019, 03:07 PM | #8 |
Post Whore!
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No offense and I hate to be “negative”, but I’ll be real with you. If you have rust, your car isn’t mint. I guarantee, if you have rust there, you have it else where. Rockers, wheel well arches and rear bumper area for sure.
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