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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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12-13-2009, 01:27 PM | #1 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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what is the weak point in a sr20det??
was just wondering what the weak point is in a sr20det?
seems like lot of guys r always throwing a rod would that be a major weak point on these motors? what would be some things i could do from keeping that from happening? thx |
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12-13-2009, 01:35 PM | #2 | |
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The weakest point are the owners.
Proper research and preparation and not skimping on things is the first and most important thing.
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12-13-2009, 06:17 PM | #4 |
Post Whore!
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Oil Pick up to Oil Pan Clearance
I would upgrade to a tomei oil pan and a late model oil pickup immediately after installing my new motor if I were going to build another S chassis with SR The other part is the rocker arms and hydraulic valve train as well as the timing chain and chain guide, if your oil pump starts to go of course
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12-14-2009, 12:29 PM | #8 | |
Nissanaholic!
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Quote:
I love these threads, good for a laugh, what do you think we're going to tell you? Yep, its the rods, just get stronger ones and you'll be good...
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12-14-2009, 12:48 PM | #9 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I've never seen a rod failure on a sr20...
but pistons will melt if you lean out.. or not watching your A/F's / EGT's on higher boost. (especially in ICE COLD WEATHER!!) the guy who bought my 240.. called me the other day.. he said a piston melted on stock boost..(very hard to believe, almost impossible) RIP...
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12-14-2009, 03:16 PM | #10 |
Nissanaholic!
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a jumpy rocker and trannys. Just run safe boost and good plugs make sure you always have good proper amounts of oil.
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12-14-2009, 05:36 PM | #11 |
Leaky Injector
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i would say do other research than just asking in the forums.. "weak points" in this setup up can vary depending on what you are trying to achieve. if you just want about the 400whp mark replacing pistons (with a ROM tune or other software) will achieve what you want if you have good cams and turbo, fuel.. etc. if you are running stock block, turbo, head etc... and that is all you plan on running i would change the oil pump and water pump, timing chain and call it a day.. assuming all you parts check out on the motor. tranny is fine for daily driving and NO track usage.. (have broken 5 personally) i am sure many people here can attest to that. soo. when you say weak spot in the motor, you will have to be specific what you will be doing with your car.
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12-14-2009, 05:40 PM | #12 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
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12-16-2009, 05:14 PM | #13 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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yea its just going to be stock
most a daily driver with some track times i have heard of guys throwing rods but didnt know their back ground on the motor i have replaced all oem parts....just want to keep an eye out on any week points of the motor |
12-17-2009, 02:31 PM | #14 |
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well my SR20 redtop threw a rod right threw the side of my block i was boosting stock 7psi id say it was the rods try godspeed im geting my new ones from there with my build im doing
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12-17-2009, 07:34 PM | #16 |
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Well how about buying a motor that you know nothing about? How long it sat in a junkyard? How was it broke in when it was new? How hard a life it had when it was in a running car in Japan? Was it dropped, at the junkyard, in the container, at the dock, at the importer?
I see tons of guys buy a motor, toss it in their car, pour oil in it and try to start it. Very little prep work done at all. Then when it blows up they just go get another one and do the same thing. I think you either need to build it or at least buy it from a reputable importer that buys whole cars not just motors lying around. Just my .02 |
12-19-2009, 05:56 AM | #17 |
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So true. The SR is a good engine, but like any engine it requires frequent checkups to make sure nothing goes bad. What I mean by that is, check your oil every so often, check your belts, timing chain etc. When you hear little noises, sometimes its best to pull over and troubleshoot before driving.
If you know how to put together an engine and take it apart, you should go KA-T and save the money though. 2.4 turbo rather then 2.0. Not going to debate, both are good, but both need to be done right to work properly. Edit: Dont fully listen to dude above me... you shouldnt let your engine blow up, just to go buy another one.
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12-19-2009, 06:32 AM | #18 |
Leaky Injector
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To me the weakest point of an SR is the rockers failing, which i have never experienced, but ive known ppl who it has happened to.
Jus dont let it detonate ie: high egts, high afr change your oil religously, i change mine every month, to maintain that good viscosity and use genuine sr oil filters to maintain that good pressure the motor needs. |
12-19-2009, 09:20 AM | #19 |
Zilvia Member
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I'd say.. rocker arms.. headgasket.. head studs... stock pistons(for huge boost) oil pickup and pan like steve said aswell. Other than that they're pretty much bulletproof.
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12-19-2009, 10:47 AM | #20 | |
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Quote:
Also to do KAt right is more than rebuilding an SR. |
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12-19-2009, 11:03 AM | #21 |
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LOL, if you are going Godspeed you might as well send your engine to a metal recycler. Don't cheap out on important things like that unless you want your engine blown again.
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12-19-2009, 08:16 PM | #22 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Hate to say it...almost all S13 SRs coming into the states at this point are shit engine. If the Japanese dont want it...there's a reason for it. I hardly see any S13 out here nowadays, everybody and their mom are driving S14s or NA S15s.
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12-20-2009, 08:03 PM | #23 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
SR's aren't bullet proof motors, and really it all depends on what you are doing to your motor that makes the SR, or any motor for that matter, the weakest link. In short, I agree with PHLIP, the owners are the weakest part of any aspect of a car. |
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12-21-2009, 03:25 PM | #25 |
Zilvia Junkie
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From researching i heard blacktop rods were stronger than those used in a redtop. Still, with a proper tune a lightly modded redtop should have no problems producing 350-400hp reliably.
And yeah, the usual stuff. Beef up the oiling system. Oil coolers, good filter, grab a good oil pan or have one fabbed up i'm doing the later since i may be putting a redtop in my fc and it requires a rear sump. I've sketched up my rough rendering to take to my welder when i get sorted. I will say my setup will include HINGED baffles to keep the thing from starving under hard cornering/drifting. I also plan on keeping my engine cool by running an oil filter relocation kit so i can run dual FC oil coolers, some sheet metal work to keep air going over the coolers, the rad and intercooler, reverse cowl venting on the hood..... I dont plan on cranking more than 220whp on my sr so as far as beefing up the motor i'm going with what i listed above as well as arp head studs, block decking, head shaving, mls gasket, re-ring, new main and rod bearings.... That type of stuff. Also doing some crankcase exhaust vaccum setup that pulls crankcase vapors using the exhaust system instead of the intake. Might be a bit overkill BUT i want my car to last. Better to have stuff overbuilt than on a thin line between failure and "good enough". Running an fcd and high output fuel pump like a walbro 255 is a VERY good idea. Monitoring things with a pyrometer and wideband is something every turbo car should have. Stock or otherwise. I'd go the extra mile to get the injectors cleaned/flow tested as well. Not a bad way to spend around $4500. Should be a bit cheaper dropping it into an s-chassis. Although if i had an s-chassis, i'd be more keen to just ka-t over swapping in an sr20. About $2500 to boost on 5-8psi all day. |
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