Johannes

Hey all,

Going G series turbo and looking at KISS (keep it simple stupid) options, while trying to remain relatively cheap. They sell a T2 Turbine housing but 0.49 A/R is the only option they sell so that's a no no.



Option 1- EWG stock manifold with T2 to Vband turbine inlet adapter.
Issue - clearance, seems like it would push the turbo downwards and could possibly hit steering linkage. Would be awesome if someone can confirm this, as my engine is already out of the car 😏




Option 2- EWG stock manifold with Vband turbine inlet flange welded.
Issue- prone to cracking later on. S14/S15 Exhaust manifold has higher inconel content than S13 so this may be a better option for crack longevity.



Option 3- Megan Manifold/Generic eBay- to cut off flange, and weld vband flange.
Issue- integrating EWG- will have to be welded directly to turbine housing.



Option 4 (least alternative) - Mazworx DIY Log Manifold.
Issue- ineffecient exhaust flow




Option 5- don't be a cheapass and spend 4x the amount to get the proper manifold.



Thoughts? Please share your setup below if you are running one.

brndck

imo this is one of the best values available

https://suspiciousgarage.com/product...mount-manifold

also perhaps consider this recently released garrett turbo

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing...eries-g30-660/

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RalliartRsX

It would be hard pressed to crack a cast iron log manifold.........if you do, then you are doing something entirely wrong...

With that said you have two options

1) Stock manifold with EWG and .49 housing. This will suck after about 350WHP, generate an immense amount of heat, and cause all sorts of pinging issues with HUGE amounts of back pressure
2) Get the proper V band or top mount twin scroll T4 manifold and run the bigger rear housing (my recommended option)
3) Buy my clutch lol (highly recommended for all your power goals )

KiDyNomiTe

Option 1
It looks like you could even have an issue with the oil drain on the turbo being lower than the hole for the block, but i vaguely remember the height differences. Your "elbow" and downpipe might be more of the issue with the steering linkage.

Option 2
If you got a good welder, you should hopefully be ok with this, you could always just make a spare, shouldn't be too pricey I think.

Option 3
Now you have to worry about the original manifold cracking AND where you modified it.

Option 5
There are a couple of bottom mount vband options out there as well. For your option 5, a top mount requires new IC (assuming you currently are bottom mount with piping you want to keep). A top mount though would be the most logical setup.

If you wanted to go the bottom mount route check out Spectrum Motorsports, Future Fab, Doc Race. I forget, but all of them probably don't have pictures of bottom mount vband setups, but they should all be able to make them to my knowledge.

I have one made by Spectrum, originally I was going to go regular T2 flange, but Spectrum convinced me to go vband.

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