bonomo

i hace the bc stage 2 cams for my ka24de

this is what i got

intake open 20.5 deg
intake close 52 deg
ext open 42 deg
ext close 10 deg

i put it in the camshaft calculater this is what i got
Are they off should i advance them to 114 center lines?


Your cam has an Overlap of 30.50 degrees and has in Intake Duration of 252.50 degrees.
The Exhaust Duration is 232.00 degrees.
The Inlet Cam has an Installed Centerline of 105.75 degrees ATDC.
The exhaust cam has an Installed Centerline of 106.00 degrees BTDC.


lol if i did it right there realll for off i did each one like 3 times the same thing every time.
i measured it at .050.

bonomo

anybody???????

tougekid

I've heard there off on the intake side for the SR. 11-16* off.

TheWolf

Ok what are you trying to do here. Find true centerline and see how many degrees off the dowel on the front of the cam is so you can "phase" the cam in with your crank using adjustable cam gears?

__________________
Eye on the Prize

bonomo

yeah........

TheWolf

With the head on the motor. Take a degree wheel and place it on the crank. Use a piston stop to find "true" tdc. Step 1

Now with this you can take your cam cards and turn the motor to the first event on the card. Measure the event with a dial indicator and correlate that to your cam card. So if the event is at 122 degrees ATDC on the cam card and your degree wheel shows it at 120 ATDC then advance the cam 2 degrees. There should be no cam software required. If you want to find the intake centerline (kinda old school way) Take a dial indicator. Put it on the valve retainer in the head. Find max lift or in this case max depression in the valve retainer. Then back up before max lift .100". So max lift -.100. Then rotate to .050" short of max lift before max lift. Read degree wheel. Then rotate to .050" short of max lift after degree'd max lift. Read degree wheel. Take the first number say 63. Then the second say 156. Add them together. 219. Then divide by 2. 109.5 degrees. This would be your intake centerline. Note the crower cam card below.



So you measured at 109.5 and got 110. So you'd be half a degree off from real true.


The asumption with this is that each lobe on the camshaft is made with this same offset. Without computer degreeing each lobe and then finding their average offset you will not be able to get a better guess.

A printable degree wheel

__________________
Eye on the Prize

bonomo

thats not the right cam card i have brian crower to different companies

TheWolf

Yes... I was using something called an example... Feel free to post your own cam card if you would like or read similar specs off of it and go from there.

__________________
Eye on the Prize

smelly240

On sr's we found that the very old cams were right on, then we ran into a car that NEEDED 6 deg on the intake cam, and then 2 very recent sets that were extremely close (probably thrown off .5deg or so from the head and block/oil pump being decked.

__________________

HREs on a S13 - check, 6262 - check, Girlfriend.... - nope

supersayianjim

So no update on this?

__________________
http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/rb...ject-s-rb.html

NukeKS14

Almost 11 years ago? Guessing this died a slow death.

But to keep from making this a worthless resurrection to a decade old thread, i did not degree my BC stage 2 cams when I built my S14 KA24DE and am having no issues. They are night and day over the OEM cams but I also bored it 20 over and installed a fully balanced forged bottom end at the same time so.... take that for what its worth.

TheRealSy90

Idk about KA's, but BC cams for sr20 NEED to be degreed, they aren't timed right with oem gears.

One reason I always recommend JWT cams instead.

__________________