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Old 08-13-2007, 04:39 PM   #1
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SR rebuild Issues

Alright fellas. I have an issue. My build just hit a brick wall. I'm looking for ideas and opinions now.

My engines at the shop and they have started the cleaning process and work on the new crank, but here's the deal now. The Head is crap. I need new valves, springs, valve guides and keepers. I was planning an OEM build and contacted my parts guy at Southpointe in Austin Texas and most of those parts are JDM only. He said they would have to source them and they could take anywhere from 3 weeks to 3 months or more to come in.

Not only that but the extra head parts would put the rebuild in the area of $2000 (hopefully, that's if I go ARP headstuds and Cometic headgasket).

So, what should I do?? Should I just pick up another SR swap, and have extra parts. Should I say screw it, and scrap the project all together and go pick up a WRX? Or should I spend the money and wait 3 months or more to do the stock rebuild?

I though about just picking up another head, but what if its crap too?

Now keep in mind that I'm located in Oklahoma and can't drive down the street and check out a few SR's at the local performance shop. Anything I buy will pretty much be sight unseen.
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Old 08-13-2007, 04:44 PM   #2
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Why not get a new long block, and scrap/build your other engine?
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Old 08-13-2007, 05:03 PM   #3
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If I were you I would just go buy a replacement long block. If you are interested I have a long block that I am going to put on ebay in about two weeks. When I initially bought my sr20det front clip, I bought a long block as a backup. I bought it from a really good friend so I know its a good engine. Email me at [email protected] if you are interested.
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Old 08-13-2007, 06:29 PM   #4
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I've heard it's pretty hard to find a long block. How much would just the long block run??

garagelu, I'll send you a email in moment.
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Old 08-13-2007, 06:50 PM   #5
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dont believe this guy, getting parts shouldnt take that long, and you dont have to get JDM parts. when sourcing stuff i got mohle pistons, scat rods. both available in us. can get all the stuff for the valve train from supercomp. you can get any number of parts for this engine in the US. maybe you need to find a more specialized shop to rebuild your engine.
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Old 08-13-2007, 06:57 PM   #6
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my long block cost me $1500 with intake and turbo and flywheel

and all the parts for the head should not be $2000 what is wrong with the head itself?
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Old 08-13-2007, 07:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bad240 View Post
my long block cost me $1500 with intake and turbo and flywheel

and all the parts for the head should not be $2000 what is wrong with the head itself?

No, the parts aren't $2000. The head parts are around $500 to $700, which puts my total around $2000. Machine work will run me $528, the rest are parts.


Rod Bearings [8] $36.32
Main bearings set 42.33
Thrust bearings [2] 15.24
Piston ring set 85.44
Engine Gasket set 142.05
water pump 54.36
oil pump/outer cover 177.23
Arp Headstuds and Cometic gasket $224.99

total before head parts : $777.96
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Old 08-13-2007, 07:57 PM   #8
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I PM'ed you about your problem.
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Old 08-13-2007, 08:00 PM   #9
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Get some aftermarket valve springs (COMP), custom ferrera valves and get some valve guides from JWT. Commit to it and finish it. Judging by what your doing, you have a engine thats basically fresh with 0 miles on it.
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Old 08-13-2007, 08:38 PM   #10
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you might as well go aftermarket if you are looking for an improvement in performance (which I am assuming you are) I would go after market everything because the fact is that the oem sr valve train sucks and will limit your power but if you upgrade you will get a better flow in the engine which will result in bigger power numbers.
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Old 08-13-2007, 08:49 PM   #11
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i got a complete head man if you want it...let me know
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Old 08-13-2007, 09:05 PM   #12
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even then, assuming you buy EVERYTHING new... valves are at most 16 bucks a pop (even the sodium filled exhaust valves).. the guides you can get bronze ones from JWT for about 100, springs and retainers you can probably get from some one that upgraded to brian crowers if you want stock ones... so it shouldnt cost you a crap load... unless you are talking the bearings that are crapped out.
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Old 12-28-2007, 03:18 PM   #13
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Update! I picked up a longblock from a fellow Zilivian and finally got that bad boy droped in. Ive been trouble shooting issues for a while now and .......


Well, I know why my engine is running so rough. My neighbor came over earlier and we did a compression test on my engine. These are the results:

#1 155
#2 30
#3 160
#4 160

Yeah, that's a 30 in there. Found this info out and did a quick leak down test. Apparently I have a bent valve on the Intake side. Now I have to figure out if I can pull the head and replace with th engine in the car or if it is easier to pull the engine? Suggestions?????
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Old 12-28-2007, 06:50 PM   #14
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Ok, guys I know someone has had to have done some head work. Is it do-able with the engine in. Or is it worth it to actually go through all the trouble of pulling the engine.
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:03 PM   #15
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I predict that within 2 hours someone will say "Just pull the engine it's not that hard"

....hahah yea if you have a lift maybe
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:16 PM   #16
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Yeah, it's not the pulling that I hate. It's the putting her back.
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:34 PM   #17
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If I was in your shoe and I've personally pulled the head off with the engine in/out of the car, I've pull just the head. It all depends on how patient you are. If you take the head off with the engine in the car, take the intake manifold off so you can disconnect the miscelaneous lines under there and that pain in the ass 12mm bolt on the back left. You wont even have to take the exhaust manifold off, just disconnect the elbow from the dp. Then again, you'll probably have to take it off since youll have to take the head to a machine shop.

Anyways, howd you figure its a bent valve? Did you do the drop a capful of oil trick to see if the compression goes up a bit from 30 psi?
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Anyways, howd you figure its a bent valve? Did you do the drop a capful of oil trick to see if the compression goes up a bit from 30 psi?
No, we rolled the engine up on Top dead center for cylinder #2 and blew compressed air into the spark plug hole. You could hear the air escaping through the intake manifold. My neighbor was telling me that if your cylinder wasn't leaking then the compressed air would make the engine rotate. We tried it on other cylinders and you have to hold a breaker bar steady. It actually kicks pretty hard if the cylinder is holding compression like it should.
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:49 PM   #19
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IC, yah pull the head, get it decked fix the valve. Hopefully the valve didnt nick the head, had seen that happen before. Head was pretty much worthless since the valve wouldnt seal with a chip on the chamber.
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Old 12-28-2007, 09:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gjohnson7 View Post
Now I have to figure out if I can pull the head and replace with th engine in the car or if it is easier to pull the engine? Suggestions?????


It's quite doable, less work than pulling the motor. If you have ARP studs, you will have to remove them or it will be extremely difficult getting the head back on.

Prepare to have a friend help remove/install it as the timing chain guides can get in the way and the head is hard to hold up by yourself when you are leaning over an engine bay. You can do it by yourself if you stand in the engine bay right in front of the motor, but getting out of the bay is tricky =]
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:33 PM   #21
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Alright, well considering the engine is basicly stock and will remain that way. Is the OEM Gasket set the best deal. I got a price from South Pointe Nissan in Texas of $142. I thought about doing the Cometic headgasket since my existing one is leaking now anyway, but I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to keep the car when its done. We found out 2 weeks ago that my wife is preganant so I might have to unload the S13, unless I can come up with money else where to pay off my Maxima. (Daily Driver)
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:53 PM   #22
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Just sell the Maxima....it's the right thing to do...besides, little kids can sit in the backseat of 240s...

I spent ages 3-7 in the backseat of an old Datsun 200ZX and then spent ages 8-12 in the back of 200SX....S-chasses are made for little kids in the back!
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:57 PM   #23
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Yeah, that was my explanation when I just had my 2 boys. Now with number 3 on the way, that boat doesn't float anymore. I guess we will see, I still have 7 months to come up with the cash.

As a side note, I'm getting snipped! No more for me!
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Old 12-28-2007, 11:15 PM   #24
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if your taking the head off, get some Brian Crower valves, and springs, fairly inexpensive compared to other brands, and they are worth it! If the head comes off, it's ashame to replace parts with stock imo.
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Old 12-29-2007, 01:30 PM   #25
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Well on a lighter note, I stopped by a buddies house this morning and we went to work on my extra valve cover. He has a pressure washer with a sand blasting attachment. I've never seen anything like it before, but its pretty cool and works great.

Here's what I started with



After some sanding, a few months ago.


After the pressure washer with sand blasting attachment.


I think it came out really nice. Probably won't even paint it now. It's hard to tell, but it has a real nice flake look to it.
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Old 12-29-2007, 08:00 PM   #26
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Cometic is cheaper than stock...
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:28 AM   #27
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Cometic is cheaper than stock...
Where can I find a Cometic cheaper that stock. I have seen quite a few cometic headgaskets for $100, but for $142.05 you get the OEM gasket set. Is there a set out there that comes with the cometic headgasket and all the other gaskets needed?
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:34 AM   #28
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Actually just found the OEM kit from Courtesy nissan for $82.35.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=11042-SRS13


Upper gasket kit includes:
Head Gasket
Valve Cover Gasket
Spark Plug Opening Gaskets (4)
Intake Manifold Gasket
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Valve Stem Seals (16)
Tensioner Gasket
Oil Pick up O-ring
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Old 01-09-2008, 01:24 PM   #29
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Old 01-09-2008, 04:16 PM   #30
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I have a 2+ car garage so pulling the engine would be my suggestion. I know it's more work to get the engine in/out of the car but it's much easier to work on the engine itself when it's on an engine stand. I don't have tons of experience working on the internals of an engine so I try to set it up so I can easily do the work without trying to lean over the car, or get someone to give me a hand.

Sell the Maxima. What does your wife drive? You only need one car to haul the kids in.
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