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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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05-02-2018, 04:37 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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Car wont start, have done everything, out of ideas
So I bought my 240 (91 s13 with sr20det redtop) in 2010 it ran fine but was beat to shit. So spent up to early 2012 restoring it, then got busy with life and low funds so the car ended up sitting for 6 years in a storage unit untouched. Moved into a new house and towed it home. So back at the beginning of feb i decided to bring it back to life. Redid all the brakes and fluids and a bunch of other cosmetic stuff and then did the following to try and get it to start
-drained all the old gas out, refilled the tank with premium and a can of fuel system cleaner -replaced the spark plugs and sprayed fogging oil into the cylinders -drained the old oil, installed an oil cooler, relocated the filterand put an oil temp and pressure sensor/gauges in. -refilled with extra oil (to fill the lines and cooler) -checked fuses and relays all seem good -got a brand new battery Think i did some other stuff engine start wise but cant remember Tried to start car, cranks good but wont start. Read thats either because of no spark or no fuel. spark plugs are new, coils and wiring there is all fine. Worked before and didnt mess with any of it. I have an inline fuel pressure gauge, its at 0psi so i thought, must be the fuel pump. Prior owner put in a walboro 255, so today I put in a brand new walboro 255 fuel pump. Still cranks but no start. Still 0 psi. I have NO IDEA at this point whats wrong. Any advice would be greatly appreciated ive put so much into this car and just want it to start again |
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05-02-2018, 04:49 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Mexicali, B.C.
Age: 29
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So logically i would chase the 0 psi problem first, check the fuse for the pump and if thats fine check the voltage at the pump plug. did you move any grounds?...do you have spark?
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05-02-2018, 05:08 PM | #4 |
Leaky Injector
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Havent touched any grounds, repaced the pump entirely, the fuse that was in there was a 15 and wasnt blown but it says it calls for a 10 so put a new 10 in there, gonna try checking for power later. Is there a relay i can check or replace too? I feel like for sure fuel is the reason, just cant figure out why
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05-02-2018, 05:18 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Mexicali, B.C.
Age: 29
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Sounds like fuel IS the reason, there should be a relay for the pump in the front left side (if it hasnt been moved). Although i would check for spark as well. Make sure you have spark before you chase just fuel. If you have neither could be timing sensors, or even the ecu.
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TEAM KRSH TST DMMIEZ-TIGGZ |
05-03-2018, 12:20 PM | #6 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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get fuel pressure. [email protected]@K At the wires coming out of the fuel pump. You can see them exit the tank and follow them. Open them. test them. Apply 12V directly. You should be able to run the fuel pump with NOTHING ELSE ON. This is how you detect for leaks, run the fuel pump, listen to the fuel system going, and visually inspect every connection. While you do that, SMELL FOR FUEL. Do this in a very tight place with no airflow so the fuel can be smelled easy.
Once you are running the fuel system for 1minute+ and NO FUEL SMELL and you see fuel pressure is proper set etc... then you return the control of the fuel pump to the fuel pump relay / ECU. And go from there. The ECU kicks on the pump through a single wire, it sends a signal to the FUEL PUMP RELAY so you have your direction. |
05-03-2018, 01:41 PM | #7 |
Zilvia Member
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hardwire use a jumper wire on the fuel pump relay, if it still doesnt work you know its somewhere past the relay, if it does work its somewhere before the relay (ECU or wiring)
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05-05-2018, 07:02 PM | #8 |
Leaky Injector
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So replaced the relay just in case (it was only like $15) though while doing all this i noticed my oil filter relocation plate (the one that goes in the oem filter position that has the hose adapters for feed/return) apparently isnt tight enough because it leaked fresh oil out, however due to its super akward location theres no way to tighten with a normal wrench so i had to order a set of xl crows foot wrenches and cut/made an access panel/hole in the wheel well i can hopefully get to the stuff with a crowsfoot on a socket with a long extension rod :/ i need to get that taken care of before i try to start it
As for the fuel wiring i feel thats gonna be a bitch because the wiring is such a clusterfuk from the prior owner who did the swap, and the battery has been relocated to the trunk. So it makes trying to trace wires even worse. Hopefully the relay fixes it, however if its the ecu, do i buy a sr20det ecu then im assuming? Im also tempted to trace wires in case field mice got to them when it was in storage. Also gotta figure out how to wire the horns since i got aftermarket ones (car had these harbor freight ones not hooked up and no plugs for horns to be found anywhere) also the cluster brake light is on for some reason even though the handbrake is down |
05-08-2018, 05:55 PM | #12 |
Leaky Injector
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I put a new relay directly to the pump and battery, well see if that changes anything, wont know for sure until the crowsfoot wrenches i need for the oil lines come and i can fix the oil leak before trying to start it again. At this point im tempted to just tow this piece of shit to a shop and let them figure it out. Last owner was a fucking retard and did the shittiest job wiring the car ive ever seen. Shit looks like a fucking 4 year old did it, dude basically ruined the body harness and for whatever reason nobody offers a replacment. I wish i had the stuff and knowledge to just rewire the entire car from scratch
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05-08-2018, 06:34 PM | #13 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: North Dakota
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Quote:
I started wrenching at the age of 13 and 14 years later I still am learning things! It's never too late to start.
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