blitzkrgCT9A

Mark's fatlace/drift unit s14 is sprayed. its called Battleship grey. I Love it

BustedS13

it's definitely not a kit, it's just rustoleum thinned out. if i get my s13 running in the next few weeks, it's getting a roll-on paint job.
Hot Rod did it to a ford falcon for a grand total of $98 with all equipment and supplies included. and here's a popular thread about the process
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

another
http://forums.hotrod.com/70/6338771/...ion/index.html

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SW20Racer

doesnt seem to be too bad...i may just go this route. + on the links fo sho

HyperTek

i read some people had shit results on that roller job, but then again these where import car people, probably didnt have the patience to wait and do a quality job like the hot rod guys

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kahlistrophic

even with the spray paint on that red coupe, it takes time..and yes alot of practice on ....uhh...model cars... each layer of paint was wet sanded with 800 grit before another layer was added..and then the final layer was wet sanded with 2000 grit and then buffed a couple weeks after painting.

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BustedS13

TRUTH. look at 60% of cars on this site. or any import-specific site. ramshackle shit.
look at MY s13. what a pile of fuck. but when i was younger, when the car ran, i didn't take my time.

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CrimsonRockett

Roller paint jobs come out like shit if you don't have the patience for them.

They are VERY time consuming.

You'll spend HOURS wetsanding to have an "okay" finish.

If I had to decide between roller and rattle can, it would be rattle can.

But, now that I own actual paint equipment, rattle can jobs can suck a fatty.

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Instagram/CrimsonRockett

gottrees

i would say dont do it.
if u paint your car later in the long run. you're quote will deff depend on how your primer is.

base fact is you want a fresh even layer of primer/ prep b4 you get your car paint.

thats just me.

DaPCWiz

I had rattle canned the back of my car so I wouldn't have a multicolor car until I got my paint job. looked decent at first. Got crappy after a few months. Buffed it, looked okay for a little while. Then I said f--- it and got it painted. I plan to rattle can my S13 and keep it like that for a while (track beater).

pics of the s14 w/ rattle can:
(wing / trunk / rear bumper / sideskirts / lip are all rattle can)
(front fender is a different black from the rest of the car, cuz I picked it up from a junk yard)





pics of the s14 after the paint job:

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silviaz

You can't judge by a picture if the paint is really or not. A rattle can paint job will always look faded. Ok, the first 2 months it looks shiny but after that, no way. You'll see the clear to peal off, the color will fad easily... etc

irax

rattle can does not have clear in it so it will not pill off

if you do a good rattle can job and seal it with good clear coat and not rattle can clear coat it can stay looking good.

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Drives a BRZ and is building a V6 S12 coupe.

sac

^^ totally agree. Patience on prep, paint, finish is the key. However if its a beater, or track car, proper prep, rattle can, rattle can clear works just fine. (in my opinion anyway.)

aznpoopy

meh i got some aero pieces and rattle canned them. all used pieces so i don't care too much.

orange peel / dust like mad. probably had something to do with painting in 30 degree weather on my windy ass balcony. lol



probably won't do this again. need a non windy non dusty non cold place to paint. in other words, if you have the space to do rattle can properly, you could probably just get a gun and compressor and do it right.

irax

the thing is, no matter how you paint your own car its 100000% about prep. If your lazy and dont care as much it doesnt matter if you use a bomb ass paint gun if you dont do the prep it will look like crap

if you prep really well you can make a rattle can job look really really good

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Drives a BRZ and is building a V6 S12 coupe.

CrimsonRockett

I refinished my friends trunk with rattle cans, but this is a trunk. Not one rattle can is touching the exterior of this car.



What it started off as:


Sanded and masked:


Primered:


Light 1st coat(Not wet sanded):


Full 2nd coat and clear coat(Not buffed yet):


On this car:

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silviaz

If y ou are intelligent, you'll put clear after that..... If you put only paint, it'll be ugly like my ass.

anyway, 90% of the clear in cans will peal of after a year.

HyperTek

Ooo i forgot!!

I rattle canned my engine bay


was originally burgundy



Rustoleum appliance epoxy paint..
Clean/prep the bay while engine is out..

Car painted by maaco

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aznpoopy

prep is important yes. any slight imperfections on the unpainted piece become glaringly obvious when you paint. i'm not denying it can look good.

but if you got a garage to do all this in, at the right temp, without wind and dust, and you're going to do a shitload of prep work... it seems silly to do all that and then cheap out on the paint.

its like installing high quality suspension and brakes and then running on all season brand x 195's

khmer1

i like it damn i wonna do this to my beater 94 max for some reason but nah not my 240

HyperTek

^i can picture some white guys with mullets rockin that lol

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KA24DESOneThree

Semi-flat black is easy to rattlecan nice and smooth and it generally wipes clean. Krylon is the best bang for the buck but Wurth makes some really, really nice SFB trim paint that would stand up to cones and bumper cars.

Everything else has far too much orange peel. I absolutely hate cheap-ass paint jobs that pretend to look like decent paint jobs from 15 feet.

BustedS13

alright, let's talk prep for a minute. how do you guys sand?

bondo (necessary, shut up), sand up to 220, primer, sand up to 220, primer, sand up to 400, paint, wetsand? or should ANY wetsanding occur before paint? should i be wetsanding bondo?

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irax

wet sanding every layer is good but ALLOT of effort.

I mean look up that thread about the $50 paint job, roller paint uses allot of layers and wet sand often.

but wet sanding the last layer of primer, base, and clear will yield good results too.

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Drives a BRZ and is building a V6 S12 coupe.

duffman1278

Rattle Can painted my engine bay

BustedS13

so dry sand up to the last layer of primer, then wetsand, and then wetsand the base coat? you don't just spray base, spray clear, and then wetsand?

damn painting

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Naughty240

^ If its single stage you sand once at the end once cured.

If its basecoat/clearcoat you can sand the color coat between coats. About 15 min if you have a fast reducer in the paint. (grit from 1000 to 1200 is what I use)

For sanding the clear you use 1500 then buff back the shine

DONT RATTLE CAN EXTERIORS!!!!!

Someday its gotta be sanded off because its a terrible base to start from. If you like the look at least spray down a coat of epoxy based primer. At least you will have the best starting point.

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HyperTek

How is this achieved?

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irax

flat blue and a mat clear coat?

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Drives a BRZ and is building a V6 S12 coupe.

BustedS13

that was a cover car in super skeet or something a year ago or so. it's a BASF carizzma color.

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zeitgeist

This was about 2 years ago. The hood is faded now but the bumper still looks pretty good.
I barely used enough clear on the hood cause I ran out and said fuck it. But if you use plenty of clear the rattle can job can easily be just as good as spraying a car.