Wiring Gurus: 1uz to s13 Help. - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

repda916 · 07-11-2012, 11:03 AM

So here it is. i know many people are doing the 1uz to s13 swap so lets get a wiring thread for this down. im going to post all the s13 ----> 1UZ info i have gathered. LEGGO!

Quote:

Toyota wiring follows a certain kind of logic,

... heres that key to that logic,

... Each pin usually does something, its not always something important,

... you can just de-pin or remove the auto trans by snipping the wires,

... a few pins are sometimes blank across various engines are various things are there or not,

... but the core shit's always there, like crank sensors (which sense where the motor is in its revolution), and the two cam sensors in each head.

Quote:

Using the letter codes below

... The tables below are useful for wiring up any toyota engine,

... These codes are common wires for the most part,

... each 1uz engine is wiring up using using codes like THW and STA, to explain what a pin on the ECU is doing,

... With the correct diagram for your engine. And these codes and the explainations of them below

... you can go off, wire up an engine, knowing what each pin does by,

... referring to this post,

... Once you start you'll see what I'm explaining it actually quite easy, and .. time consuming,

... I takes me 2-3hours to trace, and mark all the wires,

... I takes me around 30-1hr to connect everything up after I'd done that,

... alot of time.

NOTE: the long description for pin 1 (FPR) is wrong. The output is actually 0.004 volts which is too low to trip a relay. Ideally you want the ecu to turn the pumps on and off depending on whether or not the engine is running. Because if you have a crash you want the pumps to stop. This is the pin you do that from, (thats from memory), but the out put is too low to do that. I'm sure some smart cookie will tell me a way around this so I can publish it here.

- (Core Wire:A must connect) - = The engine will not run without this wire.
- (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - = The engine will run without this wire, but in default map. You should sort this out.
- (NOT A Core Wire) - = The engine will run without this wire, perhaps not with the Automatic Gearbox, with a manual you dont need this.

Note: it makes me unfortable to not say this: TPS and the o2's do need to be there for it to run well, so does the MAF, the Idle Control stepper motor, etc. But, it'll start and run without them (MAF is questionable with some models).

Break down of the codes above.

... (NOT A Core Wire) - FPR Across Fuel Pump Relay, - this does not trip a relay, the output I measured today was 0.004 volts not enough to trip a normal relay.

One installer recently emailed me and noted:

FPC/FPR would control fuel pump computer. They are to be inspected with oscilloscope, you will find 5v pwm signal there. There are ways of setting these outputs to control your pump without stock fuel computer

... (NOT A Core Wire) - THG Deleted EGR Gas Temp Sensor - this is normally in the body loom with the extra o2's sensors that are located after the Cat-converter. Rare to get this sensor. No a needed sensor, motor runs fine without it,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - W Check Engine Light - this is an earth wire. Apply power from stage two on the key (IGN) second position, to the other side of a 12v light using W as the earth for the light. this will give you a check engine light. When you earth out TE1 to the engine this light will flash and give you codes (refer to diagnostic how too for more information)

... (NOT A Core Wire) - FC Fuel Pump controller - you dont need this wire, this is 'half the speed wire' it sends a signal to the fuel controller ECU to half the pumps speed at idle, this does not trip a relay, the output I measured today was 0.005 or 0.003 volts not enough to trip a normal relay.

... (NOT A Core Wire) - TE1 TE1 is the diagnostic switch in the ECU, earth this out and the ECU goes into diagnostic mode,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - OIL Traces into Auto Loom / this is the Oil Temp sensor wire for the Automatic transmission - you dont need to use this wire,- I connect this when running the auto

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - KNK1 Top left Knock Sensor - there are two knock sensors in the engine's valley. You need both there, they are not known to fail,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - PGR1Evap Valve Left Side Engine,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - PRFuel Pressure Control Valve,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - THW0 goes into the Air Conditioning Loom,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - KNK2Top Center Knock Sensor,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - L(+) Gear Selector Indicator (Low) (Auto) Use if running the Automatic Gearbox through the 1uz ecu, otherwise delete,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - 2(+) Gear Selector Indicator (2nd) (Auto) Use if running the Automatic Gearbox through the 1uz ecu, otherwise delete,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - R(+) Gear Selector Indicator (Reverse) (Auto) Use if running the Automatic Gearbox through the 1uz ecu, otherwise delete,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - EO3 Earth Right Side Head,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -E1 Earth In Common, - to be clear: from the pin/plug this wire connects to the earth wire E1 which terminates on the (engine?: One of the cylinder heads) so .. any old earth will do, the correct one is best.

... - both O2’s (include the rear two if you have four o2's),

... - Data Link E1,

... - Sheilding to Both Camshaft Sensors.

Break down of the codes above.

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - VC TPS – pin 4,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - NCO(+) Over drive direct clutch speed sensor (AUTO), - I dont connect this unless running the auto

... (NOT A Core Wire) - NCO(-) Over drive direct clutch speed sensor (AUTO), - I dont connect this unless running the auto

... (NOT A Core Wire) - SP2 (-) Speed Sensor, - I dont connect this unless running the auto

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -NE(+) Crank - test - connect,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -NE(-) Crank - test – connect,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - VTA1 TPS pin 3,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - VG Mass Air Flow Meter Pin 2,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - SP2(+)Speed Sensor, - I dont connect this unless running the auto

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -G1(+) Pin 1 Camshaft position sensor left bank,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -G1(-) Pin 2 Camshaft position sensor left bank,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - VTA2 Traction Control – pin 4 sub TPS

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - OXL1 Pin 3 left O2 sensor,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - HTR1 O2 sensor pin 1 – (right),

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - HTL1 O2 sensor pin 2 – (Left),

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -G2(+) Pin 1 right camshaft sensor,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -G2(ES) Pin 2 Crankshaft position sensor (shared in common with NE),

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - THA Mass Air Flow Meter Pin 3 (checked out ok),

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - OXR1 Right O2 sensor pin 3,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - THW Engine Coolant Temp Sensor right front pin 2,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - EVG Pin 5 Mass Air Flow meter,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -E2 Common Sensor Earth, NOT the same as E1,this is the sensor earth common wire, it is used only by sensors and must NOT be earthed to the engine, if you do that the signal noise will be so high the engine will run poorly at random places, it will over fuel, and under fuel

... - Mass Air,

... - ERG,

... - the 34pin plug, on pin 31,

... - engine coolant temp,

... - sub (traction control) throttle ,

... - TPS pin 1,

... - Vapor Pressure Sensor YES

Break down of the codes above

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - HTR2 Heated o2 (bank2) Right one

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - OXR2 O2 sensor Right secondary one,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - OXL2 O2 sensor Right secondary one,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - HTL2 O2 sensor Left secondary one,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - PWR (-) Stops starting when not in park,- I dont connect this unless running the auto

... (NOT A Core Wire) - PWRL(+) Return signal for the above, - I dont connect this unless running the auto

... (NOT A Core Wire) - ODI Cruise Control (not blank),

... (NOT A Core Wire) - AD No pin in place,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -IGSW To ECU - turns it on (stage 2 on key) this the wire that takes 12+ to the ECU to turn it on.,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - SDL Data Link connector - I usually de-pin this wire,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - SEL O2 sensor wire (secondary)

... (NOT A Core Wire) - SPDM Speedo Signal (output from Ecu) - I dont connect this unless running the auto

... (NOT A Core Wire) - ACMG Air Conditioning,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -BATT ECU constant pwr supply (memory) use this, dont put it too switched power.
... The 1uz ecu learns, it needs memory / constant power in the ECU to store what it learns. Reset the ECU by disconnecting this wire.

... (NOT A Core Wire) - ELS no notes on this.

... (NOT A Core Wire) - BK No notes on this,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - TPC Vapor Pressure sensor,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - PTNK Vapor Pressure sensor,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - L1 Electronic Suspention,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - AC For AC: is this? the wire the puts the fast idle mode into place ? - I think it is

... (NOT A Core Wire) - NEO For Anti Lock Brakes,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -+B ECU switched power (same circuit as IGSW),

... (NOT A Core Wire) - MREL EFI Relay (turn on) - this wire comes from an ECU PIN and it goes ro (12+) the EFI replay to turn it on,
... e.g. the relay that provides power to the injectors (only) - turns off when engine not running, I always use this for safety reasons.

... (NOT A Core Wire) - EFI (-) Anti Lock Breaks,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - EFI (+) Anti Lock Breaks,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - TRA Anti Lock Breaks,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - 3 Auto Trans (3) Light, - I dont connect this unless running the auto

Break down of the codes above

... (NOT A Core Wire) - SLN + (Auto) Electric Solenoid #4, - I dont connect this unless running the auto

... (NOT A Core Wire) - SLU + (Auto) Electric Solenoid #3, - I dont connect this unless running the auto

... (NOT A Core Wire) - SLN - (Auto) Electric Solenoid #4, - I dont connect this unless running the auto

... (NOT A Core Wire) - SLU - (Auto) Electric Solenoid #3, - I dont connect this unless running the auto

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -#60 Injector 6 Earth / ECU fires injector from this by earthing out the wire,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -#50 Injector 5 Earth / ECU fires injector from this by earthing out the wire,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -#40 Injector 4 Earth / ECU fires injector from this by earthing out the wire,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -#30 Injector 3 Earth / ECU fires injector from this by earthing out the wire,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -#20 Injector 2 Earth / ECU fires injector from this by earthing out the wire,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -#10 Injector 1 Earth / ECU fires injector from this by earthing out the wire,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - S1 (Auto) Electric Solenoid #1, - I dont connect this unless running the auto

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -IGF1 5 Pin Ignitor pin 1 (on that plug),

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -STA Tells Ecu engine is being started - connect this wire to the starty relay output, or the black starter SOLENOID wire, not the main cable.
... It must have power, when the engine turning over and starting (if not power, no start / couple of fires thats it).

One installer recently emailed me and noted:
I would strongly recommend to connect STA/NSW pins as per toyota diagram. Though the engine starts without both of them connected just as fine.
- I'm pretty sure that STA is the pin that tells the engine that it's being turned over, and without it, the ECU has no idea it's being started. (In my humble opinion)
- I'm fairly sure that NSW must have 12v+ on it, other wise the engine thinks the Automatic gearbox is in drive, so it refuses to fire at all. (In my humble opinion)

... (Core Wire:A must connect / deal with.) -NSW Neutral Start Switch: has 12+ when in neutral - pair with 'STA' wire so 12v+ is present during starting, in a manual conversion, if your running the (factory) auto and the auto loom is present in factory condition the NSW tail out of the loom (near the plugs and NOT part of the auto loom) is meant for the dash display DO NOT connect that to +12v it WILL prevent starting completely, engine wont even fire (more than once) -

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -#80 Injector 8 Earth / ECU fires injector from this by earthing out the wire,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -#70 Injector 7 Earth / ECU fires injector from this by earthing out the wire,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - S2(Auto) Electric Solenoid #2 - I dont connect this unless running the auto,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - ISC4 Pin (3) Idle Control Valve,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - ISC3 Pin (6) Idle Control Valve,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - ISC2 Pin (1) Idle Control Valve,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - ISC1 Pin (4) Idle Control Valve,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -IGT1 5 Pin Ignitor pin 2 (on that plug),

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -IGT2 4 Pin Ignitor pin 2 (on that plug),

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -IGF2 4 Pin Ignitor pin 1 (on that plug),

... (NOT A Core Wire) - EGR4 EGR Valve - ,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - EGR3 EGR Valve - ,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - EGR2 EGR Valve - ,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - EGR1 EGR Valve - ,

... (NOT A Core Wire) - IDL2 Pin 1 – Idle This is used by the traction cntrl system, I ignore/remove it,

... (Core Wire:B must connect eventually) - IDL1 TPS - Pin 2,

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -E02 Earth Left Rear Cylinder Head
... (there is an earth point on each head at the back, under the plastic cam end seal, I use these earth points, both of them.

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -EO1 Earth Left Rear Cylinder Head.

repda916 · 07-11-2012, 11:08 AM

Water Temp:

... theres two, one for the dash gauge and another for the ECU, thats 400ohms each?,

... tested one of them once,

... right after start it dropped to 396ohms,

... then just started failing down til it steady'd out descending,

... Pretty simple really.

TACH:
Tacho

... the ‘black but not always solid black (*sigh-yeah-I-Know*)’ wire on one ignitor plug,

... is the tacho output signal, middle wire (memory check that on the diagram),

... thats in four (4) cylinder format so any digital four cylinder tacho will work off that,

... on that plug with five wires and it is always solid black and noticeably thinner than the others,

... from memory it's the middle wire, on the one with five wires,

... or .. the black one .. it should be pretty obvious,

... look at the plug with five wires which one traces off too the dash plugs,

... or is a lone wire, all the others do something else,

Quote:

* +12V wired to pin (BATT)
* (M-REL) drives the Main EFI Relay.
* (+B) and (+B1) both get 12volts when the Main EFI Relay is switched.
* Main EFI Relay appears to be working fine.
* (E11) is grounded.
* (E2) is grounded.
* (E02) is grounded.
* (E01) is grounded.
* (STA) gets a 12volt input from starter relay when the engine is cranking.
* (IGSW) gets a switched 12volts from the ignition switch.

repda916 · 07-11-2012, 11:13 AM

Wiring up the Igniter's.

... the igniters

... this all seems pretty simple to wire up, it is. The plugs are interchangeable on the igniters, so no1 igniter plug can go on number two and vice/versa.

... Key Point: you must earth the case of both igniter's.

... on the factory engine, and on the 4age engine where you can also find these igniter's there is a bracket which earths the igniter, use it (why not?): reshape it, it works well.

Frank_Jaeger · 02-27-2013, 08:59 AM

If you use the stock 1uz ECU, what wiring is necessary?

repda916 · 02-27-2013, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank_Jaeger

If you use the stock 1uz ECU, what wiring is necessary?

if you find out please let me know.
Im about to give up.

Frank_Jaeger · 02-27-2013, 07:54 PM

Wow man. That's offputting. I've found some other threads on here and Nico and some other forums.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flicktitty

Looking aound some more, i found these diagrams on another forum for a 1UZ-FE into a S14.

Anyone know how close this is to a s13?

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Also came across this, If this is true it could really be made VERY simple to run in a s13.

Quote:

Now that's the easy part.

EB2 connector is a 3 pin connector and is near the igniter
EB1 connector is a 6 pin connector and is near the igniter
IJ2 connector is 17 pin connector near the ECU is dark gray, has 2 rows of pins.

You need switched power to EB2(2). This is a black and orange wire.
You need switched power to EB2(3). This is a black and red wire
You need switched power to IJ2(11). This is a black and orange wire.

You need constant power to EB1(4). This is a black and yellow wire

To start you need to supply "start" power to EB2(1) which is a black wire.

And of course you need to figure out what it takes to turn your fuel pump on. Different on every vehicle.

Now isn't that EASY!!!!

*I haven't tried any of these wiring diagrams/ideas. So do not ask me about them.

repda916 · 02-28-2013, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paytonjuth4

If only they weren't wack high offset...

what are you talking about?

Frank_Jaeger · 02-28-2013, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by repda916

what are you talking about?

The two posters above you are bots.

repda916 · 04-21-2013, 04:17 PM

I found this write up on how to swap a 2jz into the nissan so figured i would switch things up to the 1uz plugs and ect.

Can anyone confirm if this little write up sounds good?
I just need help on alternator, and do the injectors get their puls when the EFI get switched on and is that all done thru the ECU?

Am i Missing anything?>

[e9 connector]
[pin 1- IGSW Ignition Switch] needs be switched so your ecu knows when to come on and isnt running all the time no need for relay u can tie into one of the nissan ones under the hood

[pin 6- Check Engine Light] is your check engine light, hooked up behind the instrument cluster one wire to the bulb.

[pin 24-M-REL EFI Main Relay] is the efi relay that needs to run to your sensors

[pin 31, and 32- +B,+B1 EFI Main Relay] need to be tied together and run to a 30amp relay this is what powers the ecu and it needs to be switched
I Believe this is the same thing as:

Quote:

You need switched power to EB2(2). This is a black and orange wire.
You need switched power to EB2(3). This is a black and red wire

[pin 33-BATT, BATTERY] needs to have 12v constant power

[e10 connector]

[pin 69- E1-ECM Ground] needs to be grounded

[pin 65- E2, Sensor ground] ground to chassis

[pin 79,80-E01,E02- Power Ground] ground to chassis.

[pin 76-NSW neutral safety switch] CUT on the e10 connector or you will be rev limited at 5k rpms (has 12+ when in neutral )

[PIN 77-STA] Tells Ecu engine is being started - connect this wire to the starter relay output, 80amp relay best., or the black starter SOLENOID wire, not the main cable.

* (E11) is grounded.
* (E2) is grounded.
* (E02) is grounded.
* (E01) is grounded.

IL1 #8 should be spliced with IL2#6 on the engine side thats it for the engine harness

Issa__40__ · 08-24-2017, 09:37 AM

If anyone near the inland empire has done this harness before , would you be willing to help me out with my swap harness? im not too good with electrical and if i try im sure ill hook up the fuel pump to the door knob lol , i work at clutch masters so ill give you a " sponsorship " discount

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07-11-2012, 11:13 AM	#3
repda916 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: cali Age: 29 Posts: 999 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Wiring up the Igniter's. ... the igniters ... this all seems pretty simple to wire up, it is. The plugs are interchangeable on the igniters, so no1 igniter plug can go on number two and vice/versa. ... Key Point: you must earth the case of both igniter's. ... on the factory engine, and on the 4age engine where you can also find these igniter's there is a bracket which earths the igniter, use it (why not?): reshape it, it works well. 1993 1uz-fe diagrams http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/04.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/05.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/06.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/07.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/68.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/69.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/70.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/71.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/72.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/73.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/74.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/75.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/76.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/77.jpg http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/a...rdcapri/78.jpg 1992 UCF11 (Celsior) diagrams http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images...Diagrams/1.JPG http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images...Diagrams/2.JPG http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images...Diagrams/3.JPG http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images...Diagrams/4.JPG http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images...Diagrams/5.JPG http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images...Diagrams/6.JPG http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images...Diagrams/7.JPG http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images...Diagrams/8.JPG http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images...Diagrams/9.JPG

02-27-2013, 08:59 AM	#4
Frank_Jaeger Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Port Charlotte, Florida Age: 29 Posts: 1,352 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	If you use the stock 1uz ECU, what wiring is necessary?

08-24-2017, 09:37 AM	#10
Issa__40__ Leaky Injector Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: colton ca Age: 31 Posts: 53 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	1uz-s14 ka24de trans If anyone near the inland empire has done this harness before , would you be willing to help me out with my swap harness? im not too good with electrical and if i try im sure ill hook up the fuel pump to the door knob lol , i work at clutch masters so ill give you a " sponsorship " discount