jdm420

hey guys whats up. i have a 91 s13 hatch. it currently has a welded diff on it now but im pretty sure its coming apart or some shit on the inside on me because theres a lot of sounds like cluncking and clicking and sounds like springs letting loose coming from it. now im trying to move away from the welded diff option. i want to keep my car for daily driving/drifting purposes and obviously the lsd diff is the way to go, but i seen so many different option of doing it with different infinity differentials, i dont know which one would be best to throw under there to run with stock KA motor and trans. i guess what my question to you guys is what is the best and most efficient differential or way to go about the job without spending much over 1000 including parts that i will need for the job.

please guys im in need of help this is my only car at the time and im a school student so i need to get this problem fixed.

Dboyizmlg

If you really just need it for daily driving.
Then the best route to go is to get a vlsd!
Any thing else will be too aggressive for dd, like you stated above that it sounds like a lot of clunking. (2way, welded, or shimmed vlsd, will all be aggressive)!
Just get a vlsd, but if you plan on drifting with it, be aware that they heat up fast while your on the track.

cotbu

Your budget is $1000 and you can't find a viable option to a welded diff?

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jdm420

so what kind would you recommend or anyone else. thats the way im looking to go. im not trying to do the 5 lug conversion just yet though.

zooopreme

VLSD, Helical, clutch type, pick whatever you want. Each has it's pros and cons.

VLSD units usually are worn down and will need to be shimmed. Not all but most VLSD's don't lock up as well.

Helical locks up but when turning, each wheel turns at different rates. If you want to drift in it, it'll be a bit difficult compared to a VLSD unit that is fresh or shimmed and a clutch type LSD.

Clutch type offers a 1 way, 1.5 way, and a 2 way. They usually clunk (some people find this annoying, others may not). They need to be properly broken in and they require maintenance. However, rebuild kits are readily available.

jr_ss

A Helical transfers power back and forth between the wheels based on traction. If you're rounding a turn, it's going to send power to the wheel with the most traction first. With this it poses a problem for fast cars that tend to lift the inside rear wheel, essentially losing traction and spinning the inside wheel. If you have absolutely no traction such as on ice, wet grass, wet roads, etc it acts as an open differential. There needs to be some amount of traction for the diff to lock.

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Dboyizmlg

You don't need to do 5 lug conversion, when changing diff!
All you do is straight swap! No modifications to changing hubs, and bearing.

Maybe your thinking of the 5 bolt axels? The 5 bolt axels come from the z32 diff, and some j30 diff also. If you happen to get one of these diffs then you will be required to change to 5 bolt axel. (Not 5 lug).

If you can get an s13 OEM vlsd diff, you don't need to do any thing with axel change because it should bolt right up! (6 bolt axel)

Try doing some reaserch first. It's not that hard...

Dboyizmlg

Make it simple for you.

-s13 diff's are 6 bolt

-z32/j30 diff's are 5 bolt.

The 5 and 6 bolt means the pattern on the out put shafts from the diff, that then connects to the axels.

jdm420

i think im going to go with the stock 180sx vlsd. now with doing that im going to be bolting it up to stock ka transmission, will i have to do any gear adjustments?

jr_ss

Dear god, why don't you do some research instead of buying and modifying shit you have no clue about? If you had a legitamet tech question post it up, not hey what diff should I go with? There are 5thousand of those threads, time to sit down and read with your big boy pants on.

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