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10-23-2017, 01:29 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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The Death of a Unicorn (S13 Silvia Build)
Hello Zilvia.
My name is Mike, and I am from central Illinois. This is my first S-Chassis, so I am relatively new to this (your patience is appreciated). With that said, I wanted to make this build thread so that you guys can keep me honest. I don’t want to botch this shit, so please let me know if you see me making mistakes. I will probably have some questions as well… Thanks in advance. Anyway, here is my Silvia. It was BONE STOCK. When I got it, it had 54,000 kilometers (33k Miles) on the clock. I picked it up last summer (2016) and aside from oil changes, the only thing I’ve done is drive it. The plan has always been to swap it, so I did not care that it was a Q’s or that it was an auto. I toyed around with a JZ swap, but decided that I would go RB25. Right now I am leaning towards RB25 NEO. Now to the fun stuff. The pics. Here are some high res pics of what I am starting with. The only real damage on the car is a scuff on the drivers side corner on the front bumper and some chips that were poorly touched up on the rear bumper and spoiler. It was not the cheapest S13, but I wanted an unmolested one. I was looking at 240sx coupes before I found this, but any in this condition are not much cheaper than this one was. So for a little more, I got something a little different. Here it is, fresh off of the trailer after being delivered. Some pics from a meet and it parked next to my daughter’s power wheel. My daughter’s first birthday theme was unicorns. This was the headband that she wore. I couldn’t resist. Here is the last time I drove it before the tear down started. |
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10-23-2017, 03:21 PM | #2 |
Leaky Injector
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I started the tear down on Oct. 18th.
Body panels and lights off. Original front fender guards… I have not seen these on this site before. Air inlet, fan shroud and radiator removed. The more I dig into this car, the more impressed I am with its condition. Example… Here is the original exhaust. Here goes nothing. The engine bay is dirty, but not bad considering its 27 years old. There is going to be some blood spilled in a heart transplant, apparently unicorns bleed red and green??? I was pulling this thing by myself, so when the engine was no longer over the oil drain bucket, I just said fuck it and let it spill onto the floor. It’s clean now, but in hindsight, I should have moved the bucket. I spilled all of that trany fluid and coolant one night… The next night, I spilled a bunch of elbow grease in the bay. It cleaned up pretty well. You can’t see in the pictures, but the worst part is that under the fuse box, the paint is stained blue from washer fluid. I’m not going to complain about that on a car of this age. Tonight I plan on pulling the front crossmember out and putting in the R33 crossmember. |
10-23-2017, 03:29 PM | #3 |
Leaky Injector
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I am in the process of sourcing an engine. I have tried the local-ish places to me that I know of and that I have heard are reputable (JDMhookup in St Louis and JDM Engines Chicago). Both of these places are without RB25DETs and do not have line of sight on any.
If you can recommend anyone in the midwest that I can drive to let me know. Otherwise I will be ordering one and hoping for the best. Recommendations for that are appreciated too! |
10-23-2017, 03:39 PM | #4 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Jun 2014
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Seems to be a perfect shell for some nice and clean modifications! Hoping to see superbly clean install on the RB swap!
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10-23-2017, 05:44 PM | #5 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
Now I am off to swap that crossmember. |
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10-23-2017, 07:16 PM | #6 |
Premium Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Never been a fan of rb swaps myself, but you definitely have a clean blank slate.
Best advice I can give is do not get caught up in the build. Do the least amount of work necessary, in the cleanest or most thorough way you can. Get it done and drive the car. Fix or modify things as you deem them necessary after driving it. One thing at at time. It's too easy to get caught up in the build and next thing you know the car has been on jackstands for two years.. I think it's better to do one thing, finish it, and drive again. Upgrade/Build the car one part at a time and not tear the whole thing apart with tons of different ugrades all at the same time. But that's just me because I made the same mistake. |
10-23-2017, 07:30 PM | #7 |
Post Whore!
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That title was misleading. Swapping a Nissan motor into an NA auto isn't ruining the car. Depending on who you ask anything besides an SR or RB would be bad. As long as you don't go full retard with a new paintjob and wide fenders you'll be fine.
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The mark of a true sucka: 'RARE JDM' & 'OLD LOGO NISMO'
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10-23-2017, 08:20 PM | #8 | ||
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
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I also agree with you on the paint and fenders. I don't want to jump on a fad that I can't undo when it gets old, like cut up fenders. I want to keep it classic. I plan on OEM Aero bumper and skirts, then respray with the current colors. |
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10-23-2017, 08:43 PM | #9 |
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That's one reason I'm jealous of people that actually have seasons. You get time to drive the car, and time to work on the car for a while in the off season. Down here it's always driving weather so you either never work on it, or you tear it all to pieces and it starts to fuse to the jack stands lol.
If you don't lower it so much that you can't reinstall the front fender liners, you are on the right track. |
10-23-2017, 09:09 PM | #10 | |
Leaky Injector
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No promises there. It would be nice, and I’m not going to slam it to the ground, but I do think I will have to roll the fenders for the fitment that I want. Here is an example of my ideal fitment |
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10-24-2017, 12:00 AM | #11 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Wow man the car looks great.
As for the engine, I would get a hold of the shop that you bought the car from. Iirc he has a relative that does engine/parts importing in the NoVa area... I met him years ago but forgot his name. Either way, Japanese classics should be able to point you in the right direction. Good luck with the build. |
10-24-2017, 08:15 AM | #13 |
Leaky Injector
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When I bought the car, I really wanted to go 2j. I like the 2jzs more. I absolutely LOVE the sound. However, the cost and complexity of the swap steered me here. I figured with the money I save going this rout, I can get my build farther faster. Or build up the 25 with the cost difference.
Also, I'm not looking for anything crazy like 1000hp. I think the 25 will do just fine. Edit: BTW, I've seen your build. Your car is beautiful. |
10-24-2017, 09:43 AM | #14 |
Post Whore!
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Oh man, this is awesome! I am so jealous of starting from a clean slate. I would love to have that opportunity.
FYI, you can still run the fender liners when the car is lowered like Broadfield, myself, and others have done. Here is a great writeup Toby did years ago: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=344753 They're also still available new from Nissan if you're looking for fresh ones. Looking forward to this- very cool! |
10-24-2017, 10:20 AM | #15 |
I'm in the south burbs! 1J hatch in the works, hit me up if you need any help with anything. I've had quite a few S-Chassis'. What town are you in? & come pop out with my group sometimes downtown! A lot of drifting goes down within our little group of skid kidzzzz.
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10-24-2017, 10:45 AM | #16 | ||
Leaky Injector
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Also, I just glanced over your blog. Your car look awesome. I will go back and read through it when I have more free time. Quote:
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10-24-2017, 11:11 AM | #17 |
A lot of spots are more or less near downtown. We have a good amount of spots other than that though. There are a few spots I have out in Mokena/Joliet/New Lenox as well. If you're familiar USAIR drift events out in Shawano,WI I'm usually in that area for events (Shawano is about 3 or so hours from Chicago). You're about 2 hours from me, not too shabby. If you need a big hand with anything I can get a couple buddies to make a trip out there for a weekend or something. Have a few buddies in that area. I also agree with JZ swaps being a little on the expensive side haha. I was considering selling my plug and play 1JZ/R154 swap for $4600 not too long ago, but the fun I have in it is priceless so I had to pass on his offer.
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10-24-2017, 12:24 PM | #18 |
Leaky Injector
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Does anyone have any information on identifying RB transmissions? I am seeing a lot of differences in them when I am looking for an engine. I made a thread in the engine tech section. If you have some knowledge on the subject, please help point me in the right direction. It is the only thing stopping me from ordering an engine.
RB Trans Identification |
10-24-2017, 12:34 PM | #19 |
There's a lot of different trans' that fit with them(adapter may be needed) so I'm sure that's what you're looking at. You can kind of fit any trans on it as long as you have an adapter plate. Wouldn't really rely on that though because some adapter plates are worth more than some trans' themselves.
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10-24-2017, 12:38 PM | #20 |
FYI, a Z32 trans fits them I believe. But if you end up getting a Z32 trans make sure you get the N/A version. The only difference in the NA and TT Z32 bell housings are the inner diameter, since you're using an RB bell housing, this is negligible.
Edit: CD009's usually do pretty good. |
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10-24-2017, 12:45 PM | #21 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
My big concern is getting an RB20 trans by mistake, as it is my understanding that they are weak in comparison. It would almost be ideal to get a 25NEO with a standard 25 trans. I hear that there is more to choose from in the way of push style clutches. I hear that the CD009 transmissions are tough, but the gearing does not make them ideal for our cars. That, and the fact that there is no speed sensor on them. |
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10-24-2017, 12:56 PM | #23 |
For a CD009:
A speed sensor from the driveshaft will need to be fed to your speedo. If you have ABS, you can use a Dakota Digital converter box to have the proper speedo calibration. If you do not have ABS, you’ll need to mount a driveshaft speed sensor on the input yoke of your diff. |
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10-24-2017, 02:15 PM | #24 | |
Leaky Injector
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The Death of a Unicorn (S13 Silvia Build)
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I have no abs. A CD009 is an option here, but it adds unnecessary cost and complexity. I really just need to make sure that I get an RB25 transmission with whatever engine I find. As soon as I find a definitive way of telling them apart, I’m ready to place an order. Photobucket really screwed things up here. I have found a few threads that look like they have an answer, but they all go something like: Here is a picture of exactly what to look for when identifying an rb trany... (Broken picture of exactly what you are looking for, brought to you by photobucket. Fuck you) |
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10-24-2017, 02:57 PM | #25 | |
Premium Member
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Man Peoria! I was just there for training all week. I work for CAT and often take trips out there. I would love to link up and see this beauty one day sometime! beautiful car |
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10-24-2017, 03:40 PM | #26 |
Post Whore!
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why not sr? you'd be able to run ac, cruise control, and all the cool things and probably be easier to source. i would love to see working ddc in there
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10-24-2017, 06:16 PM | #27 | |
Post Whore!
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Quote:
To sum up some of the other things said here: 1.) If you're trying to 'do right' by a community of Nissan guys then keeping the motor Nissan is the right thing to do. I understand the merits of the 1/2J swap but it's not going to play well into the theme you're trying to go for. This is all just my opinion, though. 2.) The SR swap on an RB budget would be awesome. Easy to squeeze out 250HP and retain creature comforts in your car. I can't understand why an RB would be your choice for 250HP unless you just like the idea of being able to say "It has an arbeetwennyfive." That's totally fine, too. Just wanted to point it out.
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The mark of a true sucka: 'RARE JDM' & 'OLD LOGO NISMO'
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10-24-2017, 06:27 PM | #28 | ||
Leaky Injector
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As for the cool things you speak of, the car came from the factory without cruise control. I am still going to try for AC even though I almost never use it in this car. I went with the R33 crossmember and have the Syko engine mounts. In my research I have found that with this setup, I can mount a larger radiator in the stock location. This should allow me to keep the condenser under the rad support. Anyway... I am going to try. It bothers me, just a little, if a car has something that doesn't work. Like... I would not like to see a button for AC and not have AC. With that in mind, I think that if I can't swing the AC, I am going to say fuck it and go all out. Fully tucked radiator, harness tuck, loose the brake booster, maybe even loose the power steering or do some kind of tuck on the PS tank. This is all irrelevant and in the distant future. I guess I want it all or nothing. BTW, what is DDC? |
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10-24-2017, 06:45 PM | #29 | |
Leaky Injector
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I picked the straight six platform before I picked the s-chassis. |
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10-24-2017, 06:47 PM | #30 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Mar 2008
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just kidding..just stay away from the hacksaw, fiberglass and the hoonigan stickers and you'll be fine. You can have a/c with an RB, you'll just have to have custom/extended a/c lines(compressor is farther up the engine bay) Also, you might be able to have an thicker radiator in the stock location with some Flex-a-lite 210 fans. I'm not 100% sure though, it gets pretty packed in there even with the Syko mounts. edit: you'll most likely have to use the stock radiator. Subb'd! |
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