Sr Vacuum lines and connections - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Gjohnson7 · 03-05-2008, 10:31 PM

Alright guys, I'm getting really confused on my lines and I could really use some help.

Ok, the top left vacuum line is suppose to go to the fuel pressure regulator and the bottom vaccum line needs to be capped off. Right?? The top right vacuum line should be connected to my Manual Boost controler, BOV, Wastegate and Boost gauge?????? Any certain order??? Is there something that I am missing or a better way to connect????

Also what ignition signal is best to use for my gauges??? I am running Boost, Water Temp and Oil Pressure.

Thanks for any help, I searched buy just got more confused.

*fliprayzin240sx* · 03-06-2008, 12:01 AM

Thats fine, you can already run your boost gauge on the bottom nipple if you like. Only thing is that port does not show vacuum. So off throttle, your gauge will show 0.

Gjohnson7 · 03-06-2008, 12:04 PM

Well, if I just decide to run everything on that 1 vacuum line, will there be any issues???

Also, I've seen some posts saying that the boost controller shoulc be hooked up to the hot pipe, is that correct? Or should I leave it on the vacuum line.

Also, any ideas on the ignition signal to use????

Streetfighter · 03-06-2008, 12:08 PM

top right goes to BOV

hot pipe nipple goes to Wastegate

you need to T the wastegate to the hot pipe nipple for a boost controller...

thats a fact jack!

SR20n00b · 03-06-2008, 12:47 PM

yeah i caught hell for trying to run my bov and avcr off the top right one. they kept stressing that one goes to ONLY the bov.

a few pointed me to this link.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS

rotation3x · 03-06-2008, 01:15 PM

Yea I was wondering the same thing.

My hotpipe dosn't have a nipple on it. So what do I do?

I got the fpr going to the nipple on the left side ofthe throttle body.

Where should I put the bov and wastegate vacuum lines.

nicku · 03-06-2008, 04:03 PM

sorry for jacking the thread but it is similiar problem.
I have my vaccum line from wastegate actuator to hotpipe nipple T'ed for the boost controller. and I connected the T to the boost controller and the other port of boost controller with the arrow goes out I left it open. But somehow the boost doesnt goes up at all. Is it because I hooked up the boost controller the other way around?

2fast4y0u · 03-06-2008, 04:39 PM

here is the guide i used when doing my swap

Where do the vaccum lines on an SR20DET go?

The vaccum diagram for the SR20DET is wonderfully simple. Thank god. There are only 3 vaccum lines that are absolutely necessary. Most mildly modified SR20's will have 4-6 depending on what extras are added on. Lets begin.

Throttle Body:
The throttle body has 3 vaccum sources coming off of it. Two above the throttle plate, and one below. The top left vaccum source is for the fuel pressure regulator. Also, if running a boost gauge (like you should), you will need to T off of this source to get the boost gauge signal. The top right vaccum source is for the Recirculating or Atmospheric Blow Off Valve. Lastly, the bottom left vaccum source is for the carbon canister. However, a lot of SR swaps will have this capped off because not having it isn't going to make us fail emissions. We fail anyways! The large hose above the throttle body that connects to the intercooler cold pipe is for the idle. Please hook it up; your SR will thank you.

Wastegate:
The wastegate gets it's signal off of the charge piping (aka Intercooler Piping). The stock piping has has a nipple on the cold side for the wastegate. Blitz and HKS front mount kits have a nipple on the hot side, and GReddy or custom intercooler kit will need to have a nipple welded in on the hotpipe (or somewhere else on the charge piping). If you are going to run any sort of boost controller, the boost controller needs to sit in the "middle" of this vaccum source. Meaning that you will need to have the nipple on the charge piping go to the "In" side on the boost controller, and the "Out" side needs to go the wastegate actuator. I don't have a boost controller on mine, thus I run a vaccum source directly from the charge piping to the wastegate.

Boost Solenoid:
This oddity sits on the ignitor chip plate. If you got a clip, yours was probably hooked up. Well... you don't need it when you swap it into your USDM chassis. Cap them off or take it completely off and do whatever you want with it. I suggest feeding it to your dog.

the website this was on is not going to availble anymore. so here it is.

Gjohnson7 · 03-06-2008, 04:59 PM

Man there is a lot of conflicting statements in this thead. Well 2fast4y0u, your info seems reasonable. I have a Greedy Frontmont, so I guess I need to have a nipple welded on to the hot pipe. That sucks.

Ok, I also have a nipple on my intake, right after might Mass air flow sensor. Does this need to be connected somewhere?

Also, is there an alternative to having the wastegate get it's signal off the charge piping???

Gjohnson7 · 03-06-2008, 05:09 PM

Also, where can you go to have a nipple welded onto the hot pipe??

Exhaust shop???

corriganjoshua · 03-06-2008, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gjohnson7

Also, where can you go to have a nipple welded onto the hot pipe??

Exhaust shop???

Im guessing anyone who is good with a TIG welder if its aluminum

unicoladron · 03-06-2008, 05:28 PM

i just got back from installing my boost gauge.

it's not complicated at all.

the wastegate must receive it's source from the hotpipe, because this is AFTER the IC so you can get the most accurate boost reading.

yes the top left on the TB must go to the FPR. the top right is the best source for a BOV. i'm not running a BOV (hooray surge!!) so i used the top right for my boost gauge source.

if you do have a boost controller you will do the following the controller/solenoids will go inline between the WG actuator and the nipple.

if you ARE running a BOV i wouldn't suggest T-ing anything!!

eitehr weld a nipple to your cold-pipe or just get the quick tap fitting sr20noob posted and screw it into a coupler on your cold-side (you can do hotside but your gauge won't read the boost loss from the IC)

unicoladron · 03-06-2008, 05:29 PM

corriganjoshua · 03-06-2008, 05:31 PM

i never thought of that haha

unicoladron · 03-06-2008, 05:33 PM

it's the best thing since sliced bread. i was gonna use one but then i just said fuck it and stopped using a bov

corriganjoshua · 03-06-2008, 05:35 PM

hey unicoladron can you get those taps and nipple just from a loacl auto store?

GabeS14 · 03-06-2008, 05:42 PM

good thread..i had this issue a while back..and see a thread like this every week or so..good job!!!

2fast4y0u · 03-06-2008, 05:52 PM

well

i followed that write up to the T when i was doing my swap. since then i have installed a electronic boost controller.
i finally broke down and had a niple welded to my intake pipe. what a difference i saw it make. boost seemed to be more accurate on the gauge(yes i have a gauge and profec b spec 2).

so, hopefully you have the resources to hook it up the way it says to. if not, make it so you can.

corriganjoshua · 03-06-2008, 06:11 PM

unless you upgrade the turbo and use the discharger nipple for the compressor discharge signal

unicoladron · 03-06-2008, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by corriganjoshua

hey unicoladron can you get those taps and nipple just from a loacl auto store?

i doubt it...the other day i asked both autozone and advance auto parts if they have vacuum line blockoff plugs...i literally drew a picture of my throttle body and they looked at me funny for a few seconds and honestly had no clue what i was talking about.

unicoladron · 03-06-2008, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gjohnson7

Also what ignition signal is best to use for my gauges??? I am running Boost, Water Temp and Oil Pressure.

oh yeah forgot to answer this one.

i just used my radio's ignition wire. i have three gauges feeding off of this without a problem. nice and clean using solder and heat shrink. since my gauges are installed in my center vent on my dash, i shortened the wires and it's nice and neat, i suggest you do the same! a-pilliar pods are thief magnets.

GabeS14 · 03-06-2008, 07:41 PM

by the way was it a posi or neg rep you gave me ..cuz its a blue square lol?

SR20n00b · 03-06-2008, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by corriganjoshua

hey unicoladron can you get those taps and nipple just from a loacl auto store?

look at the link i posted a few up. thats where u get them.

Streetfighter · 03-07-2008, 12:12 PM

hey just a side note...make sure if youre going to put a nipple on the hot pipe its between the turbo and the BOV. not betweent the intercooler and BOV

emersonLP · 03-07-2008, 12:35 PM

Is it better to have a nipple welded on the hot pipe right after the turbo or on the cold pipe? seems I hear conflicting opinions in this thread.

SRpetey · 03-07-2008, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unicoladron

I got one of those from FRsport. Drilled a hole on my hot pipe in between the bov and the turbo like mentioned above. Fed a thin wire through the hole. Placed the nipple on the wire with a rubber washer. pulled the wire until the nipple comes out of the driled hole. added another rubber washer and then a the metal washer and finaly screw in the nut. I have no leaks at all. Or instead of the rubber washers search on the online yellow pages and find someone that welds aluminum.

corriganjoshua · 03-07-2008, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emersonLP

Is it better to have a nipple welded on the hot pipe right after the turbo or on the cold pipe? seems I hear conflicting opinions in this thread.

in my opinion the closer to the turbo you get the more accurate of a reading your gunna have opposed to being further downstream

KiLLeR2001 · 03-07-2008, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gjohnson7

Man there is a lot of conflicting statements in this thead. Well 2fast4y0u, your info seems reasonable. I have a Greedy Frontmont, so I guess I need to have a nipple welded on to the hot pipe. That sucks.

Ok, I also have a nipple on my intake, right after might Mass air flow sensor. Does this need to be connected somewhere?

Also, is there an alternative to having the wastegate get it's signal off the charge piping???

Is it the stock SR intake pipe? If so that nipple goes to your BOV for recirculation purposes.

krazyfil · 06-26-2009, 02:26 AM

hey i know this thread is pretty passed its prime.. but is there a picture thread for install instructions for t type manual boost controller and a boost gauge? i have bov and fmic on a red top with stock t25 turbo... if u have the link pm me please... thanks

03-05-2008, 10:31 PM	#1
Gjohnson7 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Age: 40 Posts: 980 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Sr Vacuum lines and connections Alright guys, I'm getting really confused on my lines and I could really use some help. Ok, the top left vacuum line is suppose to go to the fuel pressure regulator and the bottom vaccum line needs to be capped off. Right?? The top right vacuum line should be connected to my Manual Boost controler, BOV, Wastegate and Boost gauge?????? Any certain order??? Is there something that I am missing or a better way to connect???? Also what ignition signal is best to use for my gauges??? I am running Boost, Water Temp and Oil Pressure. Thanks for any help, I searched buy just got more confused. __________________ LSX Kouki Project, swap completed in Dec 09 Last edited by Gjohnson7; 03-05-2008 at 10:54 PM..

03-06-2008, 12:01 AM	#2
fliprayzin240sx Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 17,998 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx Feedback Score: 19 reviews	Thats fine, you can already run your boost gauge on the bottom nipple if you like. Only thing is that port does not show vacuum. So off throttle, your gauge will show 0. __________________ If you think Zilvia has too many assholes... CLICK HERE!!!

03-06-2008, 12:04 PM	#3
Gjohnson7 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Age: 40 Posts: 980 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Well, if I just decide to run everything on that 1 vacuum line, will there be any issues??? Also, I've seen some posts saying that the boost controller shoulc be hooked up to the hot pipe, is that correct? Or should I leave it on the vacuum line. Also, any ideas on the ignition signal to use???? __________________ LSX Kouki Project, swap completed in Dec 09

03-06-2008, 04:59 PM	#9
Gjohnson7 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Age: 40 Posts: 980 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Man there is a lot of conflicting statements in this thead. Well 2fast4y0u, your info seems reasonable. I have a Greedy Frontmont, so I guess I need to have a nipple welded on to the hot pipe. That sucks. Ok, I also have a nipple on my intake, right after might Mass air flow sensor. Does this need to be connected somewhere? Also, is there an alternative to having the wastegate get it's signal off the charge piping??? __________________ LSX Kouki Project, swap completed in Dec 09

03-06-2008, 05:09 PM	#10
Gjohnson7 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Age: 40 Posts: 980 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Also, where can you go to have a nipple welded onto the hot pipe?? Exhaust shop??? __________________ LSX Kouki Project, swap completed in Dec 09

03-06-2008, 12:08 PM	#4
Streetfighter Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: VA Posts: 41 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	top right goes to BOV hot pipe nipple goes to Wastegate you need to T the wastegate to the hot pipe nipple for a boost controller... thats a fact jack!

03-06-2008, 12:47 PM	#5
SR20n00b Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: florida Posts: 79 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	yeah i caught hell for trying to run my bov and avcr off the top right one. they kept stressing that one goes to ONLY the bov. a few pointed me to this link. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS

03-06-2008, 01:15 PM	#6
rotation3x Zilvia Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: virginia Age: 35 Posts: 272 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Yea I was wondering the same thing. My hotpipe dosn't have a nipple on it. So what do I do? I got the fpr going to the nipple on the left side ofthe throttle body. Where should I put the bov and wastegate vacuum lines.

03-06-2008, 04:03 PM	#7
nicku Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: St. Cloud, MN Age: 37 Posts: 545 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	sorry for jacking the thread but it is similiar problem. I have my vaccum line from wastegate actuator to hotpipe nipple T'ed for the boost controller. and I connected the T to the boost controller and the other port of boost controller with the arrow goes out I left it open. But somehow the boost doesnt goes up at all. Is it because I hooked up the boost controller the other way around?

03-06-2008, 04:39 PM	#8
2fast4y0u Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 50 miles west of chicago Posts: 1,186 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	here is the guide i used when doing my swap Where do the vaccum lines on an SR20DET go? The vaccum diagram for the SR20DET is wonderfully simple. Thank god. There are only 3 vaccum lines that are absolutely necessary. Most mildly modified SR20's will have 4-6 depending on what extras are added on. Lets begin. Throttle Body: The throttle body has 3 vaccum sources coming off of it. Two above the throttle plate, and one below. The top left vaccum source is for the fuel pressure regulator. Also, if running a boost gauge (like you should), you will need to T off of this source to get the boost gauge signal. The top right vaccum source is for the Recirculating or Atmospheric Blow Off Valve. Lastly, the bottom left vaccum source is for the carbon canister. However, a lot of SR swaps will have this capped off because not having it isn't going to make us fail emissions. We fail anyways! The large hose above the throttle body that connects to the intercooler cold pipe is for the idle. Please hook it up; your SR will thank you. Wastegate: The wastegate gets it's signal off of the charge piping (aka Intercooler Piping). The stock piping has has a nipple on the cold side for the wastegate. Blitz and HKS front mount kits have a nipple on the hot side, and GReddy or custom intercooler kit will need to have a nipple welded in on the hotpipe (or somewhere else on the charge piping). If you are going to run any sort of boost controller, the boost controller needs to sit in the "middle" of this vaccum source. Meaning that you will need to have the nipple on the charge piping go to the "In" side on the boost controller, and the "Out" side needs to go the wastegate actuator. I don't have a boost controller on mine, thus I run a vaccum source directly from the charge piping to the wastegate. Boost Solenoid: This oddity sits on the ignitor chip plate. If you got a clip, yours was probably hooked up. Well... you don't need it when you swap it into your USDM chassis. Cap them off or take it completely off and do whatever you want with it. I suggest feeding it to your dog. the website this was on is not going to availble anymore. so here it is.

03-06-2008, 05:28 PM	#12
unicoladron Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Long Island, NY Age: 37 Posts: 568 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i just got back from installing my boost gauge. it's not complicated at all. the wastegate must receive it's source from the hotpipe, because this is AFTER the IC so you can get the most accurate boost reading. yes the top left on the TB must go to the FPR. the top right is the best source for a BOV. i'm not running a BOV (hooray surge!!) so i used the top right for my boost gauge source. if you do have a boost controller you will do the following the controller/solenoids will go inline between the WG actuator and the nipple. if you ARE running a BOV i wouldn't suggest T-ing anything!! eitehr weld a nipple to your cold-pipe or just get the quick tap fitting sr20noob posted and screw it into a coupler on your cold-side (you can do hotside but your gauge won't read the boost loss from the IC) __________________ 1993 KA24DE for sale with 180k..running when pulled.... need to get rid of ASAP...i'm moving

03-06-2008, 05:29 PM	#13
unicoladron Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Long Island, NY Age: 37 Posts: 568 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	__________________ 1993 KA24DE for sale with 180k..running when pulled.... need to get rid of ASAP...i'm moving

03-06-2008, 05:31 PM	#14
corriganjoshua Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Wrong End of the Railroad Tracks Posts: 422 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: corriganjoshua Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i never thought of that haha __________________ Team Inertia Cheap,Fast,Reliable you can only have 2.

03-06-2008, 05:33 PM	#15
unicoladron Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Long Island, NY Age: 37 Posts: 568 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	it's the best thing since sliced bread. i was gonna use one but then i just said fuck it and stopped using a bov __________________ 1993 KA24DE for sale with 180k..running when pulled.... need to get rid of ASAP...i'm moving

03-06-2008, 05:35 PM	#16
corriganjoshua Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Wrong End of the Railroad Tracks Posts: 422 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: corriganjoshua Feedback Score: 0 reviews	hey unicoladron can you get those taps and nipple just from a loacl auto store? __________________ Team Inertia Cheap,Fast,Reliable you can only have 2.

03-06-2008, 05:42 PM	#17
GabeS14 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Sin City Las Vegas Posts: 4,521 Trader Rating: (27) Rides Gallery: GabeS14 Feedback Score: 27 reviews	good thread..i had this issue a while back..and see a thread like this every week or so..good job!!! __________________ E92 M3 19" wheels for sale///JWT Cams and Springs +30whp for sale... cheap.

03-06-2008, 05:52 PM	#18
2fast4y0u Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 50 miles west of chicago Posts: 1,186 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	well i followed that write up to the T when i was doing my swap. since then i have installed a electronic boost controller. i finally broke down and had a niple welded to my intake pipe. what a difference i saw it make. boost seemed to be more accurate on the gauge(yes i have a gauge and profec b spec 2). so, hopefully you have the resources to hook it up the way it says to. if not, make it so you can.

03-06-2008, 06:11 PM	#19
corriganjoshua Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Wrong End of the Railroad Tracks Posts: 422 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: corriganjoshua Feedback Score: 0 reviews	unless you upgrade the turbo and use the discharger nipple for the compressor discharge signal __________________ Team Inertia Cheap,Fast,Reliable you can only have 2.

03-06-2008, 07:41 PM	#22
GabeS14 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Sin City Las Vegas Posts: 4,521 Trader Rating: (27) Rides Gallery: GabeS14 Feedback Score: 27 reviews	by the way was it a posi or neg rep you gave me ..cuz its a blue square lol? __________________ E92 M3 19" wheels for sale///JWT Cams and Springs +30whp for sale... cheap.

03-07-2008, 12:12 PM	#24
Streetfighter Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: VA Posts: 41 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	hey just a side note...make sure if youre going to put a nipple on the hot pipe its between the turbo and the BOV. not betweent the intercooler and BOV

03-07-2008, 12:35 PM	#25
emersonLP Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Georgia Age: 36 Posts: 524 Trader Rating: (6) Rides Gallery: emersonLP Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Is it better to have a nipple welded on the hot pipe right after the turbo or on the cold pipe? seems I hear conflicting opinions in this thread. __________________ Me- "what the f*ck did we do to my boost controller" Brandon-"I dunno?"

06-26-2009, 02:26 AM	#29
krazyfil Zilvia Addict Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: bakersfield, CA Age: 37 Posts: 753 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	hey i know this thread is pretty passed its prime.. but is there a picture thread for install instructions for t type manual boost controller and a boost gauge? i have bov and fmic on a red top with stock t25 turbo... if u have the link pm me please... thanks

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