Turbocharged BTCC SR20 - 1000bhp - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Teigen · 10-31-2012, 08:51 AM

the build thread of my slow going silvia.
Spent a lot of money to get real gt300 parts, these are hyper rare as there was only made 3 cars and most of the patrts are trashed trough small crashes etc.

build started out as sleeper but now is a fully racebred timeattack car
1000hp, sequential gearbox, 380mm brakes, gt300 real bodykit parts, magnesium rims, btcc engine ++

Have fun reading trough the shit

*** CURRENT STATUS IMAGE ***

ENGINE SPEC LIST

Cylinder Head

P10 Primera BTCC Head
Supertech Dual Valve Spring
Supertech Titanium Retainers, SR20
Supertech Nitrit Titanium Valves BTCC size
Custom designed to this engine after flowtesting, manufactured by order from KM cams
CNC Adjustable Cam Gears
Mazworx 1/2" Head Stud Kit w/ Dowels
Mazworx SR20DET Headgasket, 90mm Bore and 1/2" Studs
Ported out oil ports for better oilflow
NISSAN CNC'd combustion chamber, later CNC'd by me for 90mm with low squish

Block

S15 RWD turbo Block
Darton Sleeves inserted, bore 90MM
Oil supply: DrySump system
1/2" main studs mazworx
4 Custom made on order CP Pistons (set of 4) -- 90mm 9.5:1 (Gasported)
Custom Connecting Rods, SR20 Crower
Wiseco 90 mm Billet Crankshaft
Rod Bearing 19,5mm Special made
ATI Super Damper
Waterpump - Dual Electric Meziere drag race waterpump
Selfmade drysump oilpan
Ported oil ports to match cylinderhead
Bore & Hone w/ Torque Plate -- 90MM
Resize Line Bore
Resurface Block & Oil Pump
Oil Groove Machining, SR20
19mm Rod Bearing Machining

Engine Misc

Mazworx Hallsensor Kit
Custom oil catch tank with -an16 fittings
Sand blasted alternator +powder coated alternator bracket
Lamborghini Black Whrinkle paint Valve Cover
NO OILCAP
Rocker Studs, Rocker Washers, Stainless Dome Nuts

INDUCTION

Exhaust side

TO BE ORDERED - Custom Borg Warner turbo
Dual 40mm Turbosmart Comp gates
Custom 4 inch aluminium intake pipe
Custom braided turbo oil/water lines
MLS 4 layer metal exhaust gasket
No turbo flange gasket

Cold side

Custom WRC Plenum
Customised Internal Throttle Bodies (ITBs) (4 x 46,5mm)
Custom aluminium cold pipe
-An fittings for IM
wiggins clamp

FUELLING

4x Injector Dynamics 2200cc Injectors
4x Injector Dynamics 1000cc Injectors
Stock fuel tank (for lowest weight point)
Walbro 255 Inline lift pump
Triple Bosch 044 external pumps
5ltr surge tank
2 inline -an 10 AEM fuel filters
Nylon braided lines with AN fitting whole fuel system
Braided lines feed -an 10 return -an 8
CNC dual fuel rail
Aeromotive FPR

DRIVETRAIN

Prototype Hoolinger/Quaif/grex sequential gear (6 gear)
Triple plate carbon clutchF1 custom flywheel
Braided clutch line
Carbon tail shaft
Carbonetics Carbon LSD 1,5 way
Custom Engine and Trans mounts

Code:

THE STORY: 


 First I can write a few details about myself
 My home country is Norway, which somehow happens to be a place where JDM parts are not floating around and something one stumbles across every now and then :sadwavey:

 My car is a 95 s14, bought it about half a year ago, during spring time here.
 The car had BOTH nats 1 and 2 installed, as well as 3 GM market aftermarket security boxes. car was DEAD... totally
 Car was built in sweden for previous owner as a drag car with 5-600 whp after what i've heard with some piggyback shit system, thats about the specs I know about the car. 
Here is a couple images from the previous owner, as it was before mounting the Skyline rear wing

 When I finally saved up the remaining money (No, Silvias aren't thrown at you around up here, and pretty rare) and took a tralley and picked it up it it had a sr20det blacktop swap with 112000 on it, not modified at all, except t28BB turbo which is standard in Japan
 tried making it ignite for weeks but got tired of it. 

 took some tools and started removing OEM ecu and every wiring which was not made by Nissan. Resulting in having only blinkers relay and wiring for the front wipers left, of all the wires going to the engine bay :bowrofl:

As I am having experience with Autronic standalone systems I decided to get one for my SX as well, still in thinking of having a pretty non modded s14 with just a litte more boost than regular....( I bet you all is aware of the trap (wont tune it a lot)

 Time flies and plans change, bought a pretty good top mount mani, JUN intake, 740cc JECS injectors, pretty cheap China turbo with 84 ar exhaust and 70 ar compressor housing. + some other small stuff


 plan was maxing the engine @ original parts inside both cylinder head and block, except some Brian C stage 3 cams ( got them for free with the intake so why not.  After a couple weeks working with it, mounting stuff and such things began getting ready for startup, with having barely 2 months left before season was totally over for the 2012 in Norway. 
Trying to make it to the last of the Norwegian Gatebil series, one weekend of racing and girls, just the startup itself was missing.

 Fitted with Autronic and walbro 255 inline pump things were about to be ready for my m8s dynapack. 


 Then some sad stuff happened, cranking it around a few rounds and it stopped. Removing a plug and E85 floated out of the plughole! Actually all 4 cylinders, Intake mani, Exhaust mani, FMIC and a bit of the exhaust was filled with E85. Something had happened to the injectors and fuelrail and the pump literally did its job, pumping a lot of fuel!

 Being a bit sad and down, I cranked it empty in order do try saving my new Agip racing oil from being waste but I was already too late. the next day my mates went off to the track and there was nothing I could do. Was almost broke anyway so guess I saved money On not going to a racetrack and get more inspired to spend more money on my car hehe








Engine out!

Starting to take apart the head




Head off

Most cylinders looked good but 1 piston had a few markings onto it



Bottom demount





and now, putting apart a little of it as this block goes to Cylmo for having Darton sleeves installed and later being a "showoff" on thei stand on norways largest motor show
 Bye bye srblock!
Will welcome it back soon, as a SR22 block with sleeves inserted :) So that story is not over for now.

Here is me looking like an idiot next to it @ the show

*
The past months I've come across a rare sr engine, Will throw up a picture of it. Some of you probably recognizes it?

Can tell a few of the specs which if done to the engine after its original primera usage

Darton sleeves, bored to 90mm
Mazworx 1/2 cylinder head bolts
The cylinderhead floeated pretty good as a N/A, but was sent to DTE racing in Sweden for more modifications. (This guy " Dr. Ernie" made the cylinder head and cams etc for Hotwok cherry, as well as Madtech s14. both cars made more than 900 whp)
From his measurements and work Kelford Cams made the cams and basicly everything in the cylinder head is made to fit eachother and my Garret GT4094r, I got both 95 ar exhaust and 85 ar exhaust for it.
The btcc head
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/IMG_3868.jpg[/IMG]
Dry sump is removed, as it might would not fit. Got a custom oilpan made, as the Greddy oilpan isn't good enough with aggressive grip driving
Gearbox is a new Tremec TKO600 with Libery Gears parts, converted to Dogbox, as well as longer splines on the shaft in the bellhouse so that the 2-plate tilton will require some grip.

Making it fit wasnt that hard in the end, with a Custom made exhaust manifold from Greddy things began looking good. I have all the time been sure about having my engine mounted in level, also the bellhousing on the gearbox is welded for that. On the image below you can see that it might doesnt get that bad anyway even with OEM engine mounts. The shifter would tilt a bit towards me but maybe it only is a good thing having it closer

First try

Emptied bay again. And no worries, Will be totally sexy when done, with new cool things and some nice paint

Inside the car I am working to make the OMP seats fit, would love to thev a slider underneath them but We'll see. All wires you can see in the image is removed and things are getting sexy in there now

Another problem I met with having this engine mounted is the FWD CAS, which would hit my firewall. This problem is fixed without cutting my dear Silvia, getting an SR20VE cas, which would fit the head and also is not thicker than an OEM rwd cas.

Beautiful little Silvia next to my mates old Opel. After 4 Opel CIH engines hazards, he decided to build and Volvo 8v turbo... (I dislike volvo hehe)

The Turbo I have decided to use on the right, GT4094R, I have both 85 a/r and 95 a/r exhaust to try out. Here is some cylinder head bolts, guess which of them I got installed

Last thing I have started with is lowering the whole rear setup

Will be fitted with everything that can be exchanged and will work good with grip driving. Was an easy job, took me about 1,1/2 - 2 hours as I have never done this to a s14 before,

Will update this post daily with images and info about whats been done

Cheers
Teigen

Teigen · 12-31-2012, 10:32 PM

Sorry for late Update, was only updating my build thread in the Premium members section. Copying and pasting what I have wrote there:

11-23-2012, 05:56 PM

So, there have actually been some nice updates to the car, I will throw up some images and write a text to each of them, Enjoy!

The engine bay is these days totally clean and most paint is matted or removed, by hand of course for the best result! It's not awesome work but one gets used to it, and a baby like this needs some love

Removed everything, including that I drilled out the bonnet/hood locking device to, as I have sanded that and it will get a slightly different color than the rest, but thats just a minor detail!
80% of the holes in the engine bay will be welded and then grinded down to the invisible! I don't want anymore holes in my chassis than I have to!

Also in the "Do, or should not" weld the seems of the front towers and such, most likey end ut with doing it to get more stiffness to the chassis.

Original battery placement was the only rusty place on the whole car, believe it or not! Of course the battery will be place rear, on the opposite side of the driver to obtain weight balance as I guess I will most likely drive alone with no passengers, at least when doing timeattack etc.
The fusebox is also removed, along with absolutely all wires, and every wire in the engine bay will be remade to look as nice as possible and clean! Fusebox will be placed in the rear, + I will try to make a custom fusebox, as half of the fuses and wires is removed as I no longer need them, most likely end up with some aluminium stuff

the 2 pieces of metal which I cut away, on both sides in the front of the bay was too ugly, and I want things to look clean and therefore I am making new plates to weld in there. Also will make some custom piping to the intercooler.

Regarding the interior, most is removed as of cleaning up wires etc, and the mid-console is going to be the place with the switches! The car is meant to be a sleeper, and after hours of thinking I got this idea of making the switches in the "box" in the back of the mid-console.

Anyway, had to make the switches fit in there, and room for wires and such, so therefore I made a plate inside the box/room thing.

Painted the plate in the special Wrinkle Paint, used om lambhorginis and stuff, this is the same paint as I use on my rocker cover on both my engines, as well as the turbohousing and plenum. This will be invisible when the box is closed, but once I open it, voila! a ton of switches, for things like Antilag, Launchcontrol, Fans, waterpump etc etc

Another thing that is solved is the Oil system. As you mught know the BTCC engines had dry sump, but this system requires some space and I the engine would not fit with that on. Therefore I built wetsump, and had Moroso make me an Oil pan after my measurements, could have used a Greddy one, but those just ain't good enough. Also, I have mounted an Accusump! I am not going to explain how it works, but it keeps oils pressure on top even if the pump would fail in heavy corners. you can google it and you will Understand. Image coming!

Now, over to the sexy part!

Finally had them Internal Throttlebodies, aka ITBs mounted yesterday. These are ported 4 x 46mm throttlebudies, one for each cylinder. This will increase throttle response and such, but mostly this is helpful when having natural aspiration.

Cheers, Will write more soon. If you have any questions, or would like more photos, feel free to ask!

__________________________________________________ _________________________

Yesterday, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PerilousActs

How exactly did you come across that head?

been looking for decades, until I found it by visiting a Nissan Guru for buying a few parts and by coincidence saw he had one.

UPDATE:

For the last months it's been going slow, but I have finally placed a milestone in my little project.

after removing everything from the enginebay, yes, everything except the windshield wiper engine, I was not able to remove it

When things were strapped I encouraged to start cutting into my dear Silvia, at first removing the metal underneath where the batteryhousing was, as seen on the pictures in the earlier post.
STarted welding things done, spotwelded some parts, filled most smaller holes, replaced some metal, seem welded towers and grinded down
When that was done, maybe the worst part came, sanding everything down, then laying the filler, sanding down, adding filler, sanding down... hehe yes, taking shitloads of time. I would say that when I felt done, I was happy, because it is not something I would like to repeat!

Hung up some tarpaulins around the car and washed the enginebay with thinner a couple of times, waited for it to dry then added the base filler/grey paint.

The next day, got paint made in the paintshop and went up to the garage for painting.

Laying the color done:

Adding the last layers with transparent gloss

And voilÃ*, things looks so much better. Pictures below are after about 15 hours of dry

Letting the baby get a feeling of the "new" home, I could not stand having an engine like that, bolted up in a dirty and bad-looking enginebay

This time mountined it with the gearbox mounted to the engine, but surprisingly the paint was not scratched any places!

Ordered AN fittings and steelbraided lines for 1087 US dollars with todays currency! Must admit it's in imo shit expensive for AN fittings, at least here in Norway.

Bought 2 x Meziere waterpumps, they are quite big and heavy, so I guess they will flow the water pretty fast. Each pump delivers 22 gallons trough the engine.

Also got fabbed an expansion tank for the radiator in aluminium.

Will update this in mid January, hopefully more things are done then

HAPPY NEW YEARS EVE!

__________________________________________________ _________________________

Teigen · 01-01-2013, 07:41 AM

Going to post up a few pictures of the engine and components. Feel free to ask anything

Here is my custom made twinscroll exhaust manifold, inside the collector, it's made in a special way so it starts spinning the air aldready before the turbo.

To make shit hold some serious boost, one have to get rid of the Normal size studs for head, so I had this as an replacement, 1/2"

Picture of the block with new bolts, and Dartons inserted + powder painted

Cylinder head

Big Zee · 01-01-2013, 05:18 PM

BTCC head is from what motor ? it sounds like its similar to a NEO VVL but it has a different VC.

interesting build though, keep up the awesome work!!

drscooper · 01-01-2013, 05:23 PM

very interesting and nice man! keep up the good work! sounds like its going to be a beast!

Teigen · 01-01-2013, 05:49 PM

Thanks guys, I enjoy (almost) every hour I spend on this project

Today i test-fitted the Mezeire water pumps, i have still not decided but I most likely will have one pushing into motor and one pushing into radiator, that way the system keeps up the flow all the way around. 1 pump is going to run all the time, and the second will start at a specific temperature, so the water flow incrases and temperature hopefully decreases a bit. Will also make an override button so that I can force 1 waterpump running all the time by using a switch, for like when engine is really warm and I stop the engine, waterpump can still run etc, or if it should get hot while waiting to get out on the track I can manually start the second pump so that it flows better when no air going trough radiator, except the fans.

By first look I thought this would be nice positions, but when I just held the radiator where it belongs I could see that it would not fit with the pump on the left side/ would make a messy and bad solution. So that is also something I have to figure out, the pumps are quite big and heavy so cannot mount then anywhere.

Also just took some old Silicone and pipes and made an early sketch of how the IC piping would be from turbo to the IC. The valve on the tower is the electronic boost solenoid for my Autronic ECU

The Engine was originally a BTCC (British Touring Car Championship) engine, developed by Nissan with the SR20DE as base in the 90s.
By the end they could produce up to 340 BHP and USABLE torque as a Non-Turbo engine in the Primera P10,P11 which was the car Nissan raced in the class.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jtLuIe3n6Y

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4657veIQ1M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2n8OTdbanJo

*Mofuhcka* · 01-01-2013, 06:04 PM

That engine is gonna be a load of fun to drive

codyace · 01-01-2013, 06:16 PM

Nice seeing the updates !

Teigen · 01-02-2013, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

Nice seeing the updates !

Thank you my friend, I will keep them coming!

projectkouki · 01-02-2013, 09:00 AM

Nice build man! Can't wait to see the HP numbers!

Teigen · 01-02-2013, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by projectkouki

Nice build man! Can't wait to see the HP numbers!

Thanks! I'm dying to get this done myself hehe.

Running with 1680cc injectors and e85, head flows for 1200, only problem is producing enough exhaust to get some serious BAR/PSI

ehhhregartless · 01-02-2013, 11:08 AM

what are your power goals? what do you plan to do with the car once its done? and why go for such a huge turbo, sheesh!

Teigen · 01-02-2013, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ehhhregartless

what are your power goals? what do you plan to do with the car once its done? and why go for such a huge turbo, sheesh!

Want to test how far this little badass can go, everything is built to hold 1200 hp

Would been nice to see it make 1001 or something if lucky
Going to drive grip/ timeattack with it, and maybe I do some dragracing who knows. Also would like to sneak it into the public road in the summer, cruise a little and play those germans and amercan cars a lesson hehe no offend

Wont be much of that, totally illegal to bring this car in the public in Norway

Teigen · 01-03-2013, 06:04 PM

Evening folks!
time for todays little update, havent done much but it's going forward as usual

Today I only had a few hours to spend so had to work a little quick, started the day rethinking of the placement of the Meziere waterpumps, where I am using 1 pump each side of radiator. After some thinking and measurements I found the best spot top place the pump that will push water into the radiator:

Spot's great and will give quite short passage for the water to reach the radiator, I can tell that It wont help anything about cooling if one have 30 cm of tubing or 10 meters. Will mount the aifilter close the the car's frame in the large hole i Cut there, will pass waterpump fine so wont be any trouble hitting that.

Another thing I did today was testmounting the IC and the radiator, the new radiator is going to fit fine and I will have lots of space for maybe a 3rd or 4th Fan between the IC and radiator, as the OEM Aircondition radiator is long gone

2x 12" fans

About cooling the engine's oil, I wont be doing the classic way of having an air-cooled oilcooler. Instead i picked a watercooler oilcooler made for the Industry, like large diggers and other machines. This is of very high quality and can hold up to 40 bars of oil pressure ( Cause it's bare for hydraulics) and temperature up to 200. Effectivity is around 6kw and This will work great. "MadTech" SR20 project used this as well, they made over 900hp in their S14A.

Having a problem using SR20 top feed, will need some fabrication to make this work!

Peace!

MeSs · 01-04-2013, 02:57 AM

Another Norwegian

Nice!

Awesome project!

Maybe a stupid question, but wouldn't the itb restrict alot of hp?

Teigen · 01-04-2013, 04:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MeSs

Another Norwegian Nice!

Awesome project! Maybe a stupid question, but wouldn't the itb restrict alot of hp?

thanks! Norsk?

-

no it would not i think, whats your theory?

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silviavert · 01-04-2013, 07:50 AM

Good Stuff

Teigen · 01-04-2013, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silviavert

Good Stuff

Thank you
More updates tonight

Teigen · 01-06-2013, 09:23 AM

Rest of intake manifold test mounted, more pictures and a larger update tonight. + som more revealing of parts used on this machine!

bc. · 01-06-2013, 11:36 AM

this thing is cool

*TheRealSy90* · 01-06-2013, 03:14 PM

I love this build.

MeSs · 01-07-2013, 02:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teigen

thanks! Norsk?

-

no it would not i think, whats your theory?

Stemmer det

Godt nyttÃ¥r! Hvis man fortsatt kan si det.

-

Ive just never seen a 8-900+ RB26 with the stock intake manifold w/itb.

Maybe the stock intake manifold doesnt flow that good.

Thats why i said "Maybe a stupid question". I wish i had a theory.

Teigen · 01-07-2013, 03:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bc.

this thing is cool

Thank you!

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

I love this build.

I love it too! Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by MeSs

Stemmer det

Godt nyttÃ¥r! Hvis man fortsatt kan si det.

-

Ive just never seen a 8-900+ RB26 with the stock intake manifold w/itb.

Maybe the stock intake manifold doesnt flow that good.

Thats why i said "Maybe a stupid question". I wish i had a theory.

Takk det samme!

-

I have big faith in this, those are custom, not much stockish. + they flow more than a 3" single throttlebody. I have had this flow tested and it will follow. Cams are custom built for this setup, and although it looks original on the outside, it's not

+ Will earn 0.01 seconds faster throttle respond

Teigen · 01-07-2013, 04:18 AM

Update

Sorry, got a bit late, but better late then never

So, I can start off by some more info about the gearbox, it's a brand new Tremec TKO600 with forged internals from Liberty Gears, a company that is specialists on these.
Also got DOG rings so I can shift gear without clutching if I want to, fast shifting etc. Anyway I will use the clutch tho, so used to it

Also have a custom axle with longer splines so that my twin disc Tilton get some serious grip. Using a twin disc on regular isnt helping much, when the rear disc isnt fully in contact with the splines....
Picture:

Also, had to make the gearbox fit the engine so I cut off the bellhousing of a Primera gearbox and made an adapter plate and voila, in the game.

About making the block stand some serious beating, it got inserted with some badass sleeves. Without sleeves, one can see that the aluminium in the top doesnt like the heat and beating. This picture is from Woken, a Nissan Cherry dragmachine, worlds fastest FWD under 9 seconds...

Inserted ones:

90mm bore to make it SR22

In the bottom, Using a custom made scraper for the crankshaft, so that the oil is removed to insure no trouble hitting the oil etc.

Exhaust manifold, EGT sensors.

ABout the fuelsystem, I am using a custom swirlpot, which is feeded by a Walbro 255 inline pump. It flows great for filling the swirlpot, actually a strong little machine

From the swirlpot to the fuelrail, the main pumps, Dual Bosch 044 is used. They build great pressure and is still delivering. Here is a graph of the Aeromotive A1000 pump compared to Bosch and Walbro

The clutch and Flywheel is a bit custom, dics are custom to ensure it handles heating well and not haveing to replace so fast.

The flywheel have been fabricated with a inserted plate to rub the clutch on, as the flywheel isnt something one inds everywhere It can be reused if the clutch fucks it up etc. The plate can easily be replaced.

Thats it for today folks, Hope you like the thread.
Best regards

ali-d1936 · 01-07-2013, 07:40 AM

Awsome sauce! Lucky find With the head man, you norway guys build crazy machines

Teigen · 01-07-2013, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ali-d1936

Awsome sauce! Lucky find With the head man, you norway guys build crazy machines

Thanks man! Yeah pretty crazy, maybe there is like 20 left in the world maximum. I heard a rumor of 34 of them being made, I dont know if it is right. Anyway there wasnt THAT many BTCC cars for sure

Definately having a piece of Nissan/Motorsport history in my Silvia.

Pretty expensive build, and parts are even more expensive up here as Norway have some ridicolous taxes and taxrates.
When paycheck comes its about 20 hours until its almost empty, only enough left for diesel to my car and bills hehe

Teigen · 01-11-2013, 03:22 AM

more pics tonight. solved waterpump placement as well!

cheers

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Teigen · 01-12-2013, 03:11 PM

Updates

Let me start off with the OEM SR20 waterpump placement on the block. The OEM waterpump isn't flowing enough water trough to keep up with some serious horsepowers which again makes more heat to the engine. The pump simply does not flow enough! Here is an image of the inside of the waterpum placement on the SR20 block

As you see, it is a quite small opening for the water, whihc restricts the water flow. This opening makes a far less volume than the waterflow into the waterpump. So what I did to make sure things would flow good is to gently remove the "restrictor" with an airtool

Another thing I got in hand is a AEM water/methanol injection kit. For now I will not use it, but after the first dynosession I will read the logs and watch the numbers of every sensor in the angine and do some mathematic challenge and figure out if i would be a good thign to try this. I do not want to hazard this engine, cant just go to the local shop and order a new one lol

If I commit to use the injection kit it will be only when the tempratures reach a certain number. Does not want to be using this all the time, to experience what happens with too much pressure and the water injection tank runs out...

The plenum from an old WRC car over in Canada is Cast aluminium, some say it flows the air good and others only use polished plenums and runners. I want to try the polished version, but as this is cast the surface wasnt exactly very smooth inside, rather sandy

So, smart and full of bravery I started sanding it down with some very small-corned sand paper, so soft one could rub it to the skin and it would not scratch much

After almost 8 hours it looks like this

Starting to look good, and it feels as well. I can no longer feel anything but a silk-smooth surface when i sweep my fingers across. Sanded it the way I want the air to flow correct into the runners with spinning. Still not done tough, tomorrow I am starting all over, with paper so fine thing wont even need polishing when it's done hehe. Will take some more pictures. My opinion is that air flows best at smooth surfaces, but I know people also says that there is nothing air flows as good at as air laying in the rough surface.

Old image og head

Teigen · 01-13-2013, 05:17 AM

Updated first post with info for those who wants to know internals and measurments etc

bc. · 01-13-2013, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teigen

Updates

Let me start off with the OEM SR20 waterpump placement on the block. The OEM waterpump isn't flowing enough water trough to keep up with some serious horsepowers which again makes more heat to the engine. The pump simply does not flow enough! Here is an image of the inside of the waterpum placement on the SR20 block

As you see, it is a quite small opening for the water, whihc restricts the water flow. This opening makes a far less volume than the waterflow into the waterpump. So what I did to make sure things would flow good is to gently remove the "restrictor" with an airtool

Have you seen this done before with success? I am a little skeptical of grinding away part of the pump housing. I would be afraid of a pressure drop or something. I am in for the updates and data from your cooling setup

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teigen

Old image og head

Did you get combustion chamber smoothing and rolling/removal of the squish area? Or is this just the way the stock head looks?

10-31-2012, 08:51 AM	#1
Teigen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Dark side of the moon Posts: 309 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Turbocharged BTCC SR20 - 1000bhp the build thread of my slow going silvia. Spent a lot of money to get real gt300 parts, these are hyper rare as there was only made 3 cars and most of the patrts are trashed trough small crashes etc. build started out as sleeper but now is a fully racebred timeattack car 1000hp, sequential gearbox, 380mm brakes, gt300 real bodykit parts, magnesium rims, btcc engine ++ Have fun reading trough the shit * CURRENT STATUS IMAGE * ENGINE SPEC LIST Cylinder Head P10 Primera BTCC Head Supertech Dual Valve Spring Supertech Titanium Retainers, SR20 Supertech Nitrit Titanium Valves BTCC size Custom designed to this engine after flowtesting, manufactured by order from KM cams CNC Adjustable Cam Gears Mazworx 1/2" Head Stud Kit w/ Dowels Mazworx SR20DET Headgasket, 90mm Bore and 1/2" Studs Ported out oil ports for better oilflow NISSAN CNC'd combustion chamber, later CNC'd by me for 90mm with low squish Block S15 RWD turbo Block Darton Sleeves inserted, bore 90MM Oil supply: DrySump system 1/2" main studs mazworx 4 Custom made on order CP Pistons (set of 4) -- 90mm 9.5:1 (Gasported) Custom Connecting Rods, SR20 Crower Wiseco 90 mm Billet Crankshaft Rod Bearing 19,5mm Special made ATI Super Damper Waterpump - Dual Electric Meziere drag race waterpump Selfmade drysump oilpan Ported oil ports to match cylinderhead Bore & Hone w/ Torque Plate -- 90MM Resize Line Bore Resurface Block & Oil Pump Oil Groove Machining, SR20 19mm Rod Bearing Machining Engine Misc Mazworx Hallsensor Kit Custom oil catch tank with -an16 fittings Sand blasted alternator +powder coated alternator bracket Lamborghini Black Whrinkle paint Valve Cover NO OILCAP Rocker Studs, Rocker Washers, Stainless Dome Nuts INDUCTION Exhaust side TO BE ORDERED - Custom Borg Warner turbo Dual 40mm Turbosmart Comp gates Custom 4 inch aluminium intake pipe Custom braided turbo oil/water lines MLS 4 layer metal exhaust gasket No turbo flange gasket Cold side Custom WRC Plenum Customised Internal Throttle Bodies (ITBs) (4 x 46,5mm) Custom aluminium cold pipe -An fittings for IM wiggins clamp FUELLING 4x Injector Dynamics 2200cc Injectors 4x Injector Dynamics 1000cc Injectors Stock fuel tank (for lowest weight point) Walbro 255 Inline lift pump Triple Bosch 044 external pumps 5ltr surge tank 2 inline -an 10 AEM fuel filters Nylon braided lines with AN fitting whole fuel system Braided lines feed -an 10 return -an 8 CNC dual fuel rail Aeromotive FPR DRIVETRAIN Prototype Hoolinger/Quaif/grex sequential gear (6 gear) Triple plate carbon clutchF1 custom flywheel Braided clutch line Carbon tail shaft Carbonetics Carbon LSD 1,5 way Custom Engine and Trans mounts Code: THE STORY: First I can write a few details about myself My home country is Norway, which somehow happens to be a place where JDM parts are not floating around and something one stumbles across every now and then :sadwavey: My car is a 95 s14, bought it about half a year ago, during spring time here. The car had BOTH nats 1 and 2 installed, as well as 3 GM market aftermarket security boxes. car was DEAD... totally Car was built in sweden for previous owner as a drag car with 5-600 whp after what i've heard with some piggyback shit system, thats about the specs I know about the car. Here is a couple images from the previous owner, as it was before mounting the Skyline rear wing When I finally saved up the remaining money (No, Silvias aren't thrown at you around up here, and pretty rare) and took a tralley and picked it up it it had a sr20det blacktop swap with 112000 on it, not modified at all, except t28BB turbo which is standard in Japan tried making it ignite for weeks but got tired of it. took some tools and started removing OEM ecu and every wiring which was not made by Nissan. Resulting in having only blinkers relay and wiring for the front wipers left, of all the wires going to the engine bay :bowrofl: As I am having experience with Autronic standalone systems I decided to get one for my SX as well, still in thinking of having a pretty non modded s14 with just a litte more boost than regular....( I bet you all is aware of the trap (wont tune it a lot) Time flies and plans change, bought a pretty good top mount mani, JUN intake, 740cc JECS injectors, pretty cheap China turbo with 84 ar exhaust and 70 ar compressor housing. + some other small stuff plan was maxing the engine @ original parts inside both cylinder head and block, except some Brian C stage 3 cams ( got them for free with the intake so why not. After a couple weeks working with it, mounting stuff and such things began getting ready for startup, with having barely 2 months left before season was totally over for the 2012 in Norway. Trying to make it to the last of the Norwegian Gatebil series, one weekend of racing and girls, just the startup itself was missing. Fitted with Autronic and walbro 255 inline pump things were about to be ready for my m8s dynapack. Then some sad stuff happened, cranking it around a few rounds and it stopped. Removing a plug and E85 floated out of the plughole! Actually all 4 cylinders, Intake mani, Exhaust mani, FMIC and a bit of the exhaust was filled with E85. Something had happened to the injectors and fuelrail and the pump literally did its job, pumping a lot of fuel! Being a bit sad and down, I cranked it empty in order do try saving my new Agip racing oil from being waste but I was already too late. the next day my mates went off to the track and there was nothing I could do. Was almost broke anyway so guess I saved money On not going to a racetrack and get more inspired to spend more money on my car hehe Engine out! Starting to take apart the head Head off Most cylinders looked good but 1 piston had a few markings onto it Bottom demount and now, putting apart a little of it as this block goes to Cylmo for having Darton sleeves installed and later being a "showoff" on thei stand on norways largest motor show Bye bye srblock! Will welcome it back soon, as a SR22 block with sleeves inserted :) So that story is not over for now. Here is me looking like an idiot next to it @ the show * The past months I've come across a rare sr engine, Will throw up a picture of it. Some of you probably recognizes it? Can tell a few of the specs which if done to the engine after its original primera usage Darton sleeves, bored to 90mm Mazworx 1/2 cylinder head bolts The cylinderhead floeated pretty good as a N/A, but was sent to DTE racing in Sweden for more modifications. (This guy " Dr. Ernie" made the cylinder head and cams etc for Hotwok cherry, as well as Madtech s14. both cars made more than 900 whp) From his measurements and work Kelford Cams made the cams and basicly everything in the cylinder head is made to fit eachother and my Garret GT4094r, I got both 95 ar exhaust and 85 ar exhaust for it. The btcc head http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/IMG_3868.jpg[/IMG] Dry sump is removed, as it might would not fit. Got a custom oilpan made, as the Greddy oilpan isn't good enough with aggressive grip driving Gearbox is a new Tremec TKO600 with Libery Gears parts, converted to Dogbox, as well as longer splines on the shaft in the bellhouse so that the 2-plate tilton will require some grip. Making it fit wasnt that hard in the end, with a Custom made exhaust manifold from Greddy things began looking good. I have all the time been sure about having my engine mounted in level, also the bellhousing on the gearbox is welded for that. On the image below you can see that it might doesnt get that bad anyway even with OEM engine mounts. The shifter would tilt a bit towards me but maybe it only is a good thing having it closer First try Emptied bay again. And no worries, Will be totally sexy when done, with new cool things and some nice paint Inside the car I am working to make the OMP seats fit, would love to thev a slider underneath them but We'll see. All wires you can see in the image is removed and things are getting sexy in there now Another problem I met with having this engine mounted is the FWD CAS, which would hit my firewall. This problem is fixed without cutting my dear Silvia, getting an SR20VE cas, which would fit the head and also is not thicker than an OEM rwd cas. Beautiful little Silvia next to my mates old Opel. After 4 Opel CIH engines hazards, he decided to build and Volvo 8v turbo... (I dislike volvo hehe) The Turbo I have decided to use on the right, GT4094R, I have both 85 a/r and 95 a/r exhaust to try out. Here is some cylinder head bolts, guess which of them I got installed Last thing I have started with is lowering the whole rear setup Will be fitted with everything that can be exchanged and will work good with grip driving. Was an easy job, took me about 1,1/2 - 2 hours as I have never done this to a s14 before, Will update this post daily with images and info about whats been done Cheers Teigen __________________ Don't PM me asking for parts Last edited by Teigen; 04-06-2014 at 07:31 AM.. Reason: updated spec list

01-01-2013, 07:41 AM	#3
Teigen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Dark side of the moon Posts: 309 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Going to post up a few pictures of the engine and components. Feel free to ask anything Here is my custom made twinscroll exhaust manifold, inside the collector, it's made in a special way so it starts spinning the air aldready before the turbo. To make shit hold some serious boost, one have to get rid of the Normal size studs for head, so I had this as an replacement, 1/2" Picture of the block with new bolts, and Dartons inserted + powder painted Cylinder head __________________ Don't PM me asking for parts Last edited by Teigen; 04-13-2013 at 06:25 PM..

01-01-2013, 05:49 PM	#6
Teigen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Dark side of the moon Posts: 309 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Thanks guys, I enjoy (almost) every hour I spend on this project Today i test-fitted the Mezeire water pumps, i have still not decided but I most likely will have one pushing into motor and one pushing into radiator, that way the system keeps up the flow all the way around. 1 pump is going to run all the time, and the second will start at a specific temperature, so the water flow incrases and temperature hopefully decreases a bit. Will also make an override button so that I can force 1 waterpump running all the time by using a switch, for like when engine is really warm and I stop the engine, waterpump can still run etc, or if it should get hot while waiting to get out on the track I can manually start the second pump so that it flows better when no air going trough radiator, except the fans. By first look I thought this would be nice positions, but when I just held the radiator where it belongs I could see that it would not fit with the pump on the left side/ would make a messy and bad solution. So that is also something I have to figure out, the pumps are quite big and heavy so cannot mount then anywhere. Also just took some old Silicone and pipes and made an early sketch of how the IC piping would be from turbo to the IC. The valve on the tower is the electronic boost solenoid for my Autronic ECU The Engine was originally a BTCC (British Touring Car Championship) engine, developed by Nissan with the SR20DE as base in the 90s. By the end they could produce up to 340 BHP and USABLE torque as a Non-Turbo engine in the Primera P10,P11 which was the car Nissan raced in the class. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jtLuIe3n6Y http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4657veIQ1M http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2n8OTdbanJo __________________ Don't PM me asking for parts

01-01-2013, 06:04 PM	#7
Mofuhcka Barrys World Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 1,810 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	That engine is gonna be a load of fun to drive __________________ @hcr32love 400whp NEO R32 Sedan

01-01-2013, 06:16 PM	#8
codyace Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Poconos, PA Age: 36 Posts: 8,030 Trader Rating: (58) Feedback Score: 58 reviews	Nice seeing the updates ! __________________ *Want Air Conditioning in your SR20 Swapped car? Check out www.sr20acbrackets.com for more information! Quest Alternator Conversions for SR20!* Check my Group Buy! Tired of lousy internal gates? Go external wastegate with one of my manifolds, Check out my group buy

01-01-2013, 05:18 PM	#4
Big Zee Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: BC Age: 37 Posts: 860 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	BTCC head is from what motor ? it sounds like its similar to a NEO VVL but it has a different VC. interesting build though, keep up the awesome work!!

01-01-2013, 05:23 PM	#5
drscooper Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: homegrown Posts: 799 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	very interesting and nice man! keep up the good work! sounds like its going to be a beast!

01-02-2013, 09:00 AM	#10
projectkouki Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: OSMS Posts: 39 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Nice build man! Can't wait to see the HP numbers!

01-02-2013, 11:08 AM	#12
ehhhregartless Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: nepa Age: 38 Posts: 2,775 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	what are your power goals? what do you plan to do with the car once its done? and why go for such a huge turbo, sheesh! __________________ www.zeedakay.com IG: @zeedakay

01-03-2013, 06:04 PM	#14
Teigen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Dark side of the moon Posts: 309 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Evening folks! time for todays little update, havent done much but it's going forward as usual Today I only had a few hours to spend so had to work a little quick, started the day rethinking of the placement of the Meziere waterpumps, where I am using 1 pump each side of radiator. After some thinking and measurements I found the best spot top place the pump that will push water into the radiator: Spot's great and will give quite short passage for the water to reach the radiator, I can tell that It wont help anything about cooling if one have 30 cm of tubing or 10 meters. Will mount the aifilter close the the car's frame in the large hole i Cut there, will pass waterpump fine so wont be any trouble hitting that. Another thing I did today was testmounting the IC and the radiator, the new radiator is going to fit fine and I will have lots of space for maybe a 3rd or 4th Fan between the IC and radiator, as the OEM Aircondition radiator is long gone 2x 12" fans About cooling the engine's oil, I wont be doing the classic way of having an air-cooled oilcooler. Instead i picked a watercooler oilcooler made for the Industry, like large diggers and other machines. This is of very high quality and can hold up to 40 bars of oil pressure ( Cause it's bare for hydraulics) and temperature up to 200. Effectivity is around 6kw and This will work great. "MadTech" SR20 project used this as well, they made over 900hp in their S14A. Having a problem using SR20 top feed, will need some fabrication to make this work! Peace! __________________ Don't PM me asking for parts

01-04-2013, 02:57 AM	#15
MeSs Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Norway Age: 35 Posts: 345 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Another Norwegian Nice! Awesome project! Maybe a stupid question, but wouldn't the itb restrict alot of hp? __________________ 2011 BMW F11 5-series and 2003 Nissan 350Z

01-04-2013, 07:50 AM	#17
silviavert Leaky Injector Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Florida Posts: 135 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Good Stuff

01-06-2013, 09:23 AM	#19
Teigen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Dark side of the moon Posts: 309 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Rest of intake manifold test mounted, more pictures and a larger update tonight. + som more revealing of parts used on this machine! __________________ Don't PM me asking for parts

01-06-2013, 11:36 AM	#20
bc. Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: St. Louis Posts: 868 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	this thing is cool __________________ * S14SR22 * 9.0 c/r * GT3071R *

01-07-2013, 04:18 AM	#24
Teigen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Dark side of the moon Posts: 309 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Update Sorry, got a bit late, but better late then never So, I can start off by some more info about the gearbox, it's a brand new Tremec TKO600 with forged internals from Liberty Gears, a company that is specialists on these. Also got DOG rings so I can shift gear without clutching if I want to, fast shifting etc. Anyway I will use the clutch tho, so used to it Also have a custom axle with longer splines so that my twin disc Tilton get some serious grip. Using a twin disc on regular isnt helping much, when the rear disc isnt fully in contact with the splines.... Picture: Also, had to make the gearbox fit the engine so I cut off the bellhousing of a Primera gearbox and made an adapter plate and voila, in the game. About making the block stand some serious beating, it got inserted with some badass sleeves. Without sleeves, one can see that the aluminium in the top doesnt like the heat and beating. This picture is from Woken, a Nissan Cherry dragmachine, worlds fastest FWD under 9 seconds... Inserted ones: 90mm bore to make it SR22 In the bottom, Using a custom made scraper for the crankshaft, so that the oil is removed to insure no trouble hitting the oil etc. Exhaust manifold, EGT sensors. ABout the fuelsystem, I am using a custom swirlpot, which is feeded by a Walbro 255 inline pump. It flows great for filling the swirlpot, actually a strong little machine From the swirlpot to the fuelrail, the main pumps, Dual Bosch 044 is used. They build great pressure and is still delivering. Here is a graph of the Aeromotive A1000 pump compared to Bosch and Walbro The clutch and Flywheel is a bit custom, dics are custom to ensure it handles heating well and not haveing to replace so fast. The flywheel have been fabricated with a inserted plate to rub the clutch on, as the flywheel isnt something one inds everywhere It can be reused if the clutch fucks it up etc. The plate can easily be replaced. Thats it for today folks, Hope you like the thread. Best regards __________________ Don't PM me asking for parts

01-07-2013, 07:40 AM	#25
ali-d1936 Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: ireland Age: 33 Posts: 92 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Awsome sauce! Lucky find With the head man, you norway guys build crazy machines

01-11-2013, 03:22 AM	#27
Teigen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Dark side of the moon Posts: 309 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	more pics tonight. solved waterpump placement as well! cheers Posted from Zilvia.net App for Android __________________ Don't PM me asking for parts

01-12-2013, 03:11 PM	#28
Teigen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Dark side of the moon Posts: 309 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Update Updates Let me start off with the OEM SR20 waterpump placement on the block. The OEM waterpump isn't flowing enough water trough to keep up with some serious horsepowers which again makes more heat to the engine. The pump simply does not flow enough! Here is an image of the inside of the waterpum placement on the SR20 block As you see, it is a quite small opening for the water, whihc restricts the water flow. This opening makes a far less volume than the waterflow into the waterpump. So what I did to make sure things would flow good is to gently remove the "restrictor" with an airtool Another thing I got in hand is a AEM water/methanol injection kit. For now I will not use it, but after the first dynosession I will read the logs and watch the numbers of every sensor in the angine and do some mathematic challenge and figure out if i would be a good thign to try this. I do not want to hazard this engine, cant just go to the local shop and order a new one lol If I commit to use the injection kit it will be only when the tempratures reach a certain number. Does not want to be using this all the time, to experience what happens with too much pressure and the water injection tank runs out... The plenum from an old WRC car over in Canada is Cast aluminium, some say it flows the air good and others only use polished plenums and runners. I want to try the polished version, but as this is cast the surface wasnt exactly very smooth inside, rather sandy So, smart and full of bravery I started sanding it down with some very small-corned sand paper, so soft one could rub it to the skin and it would not scratch much After almost 8 hours it looks like this Starting to look good, and it feels as well. I can no longer feel anything but a silk-smooth surface when i sweep my fingers across. Sanded it the way I want the air to flow correct into the runners with spinning. Still not done tough, tomorrow I am starting all over, with paper so fine thing wont even need polishing when it's done hehe. Will take some more pictures. My opinion is that air flows best at smooth surfaces, but I know people also says that there is nothing air flows as good at as air laying in the rough surface. Old image og head __________________ Don't PM me asking for parts

01-13-2013, 05:17 AM	#29
Teigen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Dark side of the moon Posts: 309 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Updated first post with info for those who wants to know internals and measurments etc __________________ Don't PM me asking for parts

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