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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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12-01-2013, 03:40 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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Ca18det HELP ME!! Going crazy
Hey Im stumped now i have no idea what to do next my car is still overheating ive checked everything, i replaced the water pump today hoping this would fix the problem no its still overheating, I've flushed the rad replaced the heatercore all te lines are in good shape boiled the thermostat, and tried to bleed the system with the car on stands??? I just dont get it please if someone could point me in the right direction
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12-01-2013, 04:00 PM | #2 | |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: South East Michigan
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Quote:
Did you REPLACE the thermostat? Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
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'91 s13 (Drift Rocket Under Construction) 2000 civic Si Coupe (Daily) |
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12-01-2013, 04:08 PM | #3 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Nov 2013
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Because I've seen a thermo that boiled open but refuse to open in the line.
Is your radiator fan kicking on? Also try having your system flushed. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
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'91 s13 (Drift Rocket Under Construction) 2000 civic Si Coupe (Daily) |
12-01-2013, 04:30 PM | #4 |
Leaky Injector
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[QUOTE=Livid_240sx;5491351]Because I've seen a thermo that boiled open but refuse to open in the line.
Is your radiator fan kicking on? Also try having your system flushed. i haven't replaced the thermostat only because it seamed ok when i boiled it, ive flushed the rad while it was outta the car and then from the top of the heater core. only half of the rad is getting hot. also when i tired to bleed it, it looked like there was no moment of water, idk if this has anything to do with it but when i got the car the heat was bypassed with the top hose in a loop to under the tb |
12-01-2013, 05:18 PM | #5 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Nov 2013
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I don't know.
Can you fix your grammar? It's a little hard to decifer what you're trying to say. I'm not trying to be rude, just want to help. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
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'91 s13 (Drift Rocket Under Construction) 2000 civic Si Coupe (Daily) |
12-01-2013, 07:19 PM | #6 |
Leaky Injector
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[QUOTE=Livid_240sx;5491403]I don't know.
Can you fix your grammar? It's a little hard to decifer what you're trying to say. I'm not trying to be rude, just want to help. Sorry i was in a bit of a rush, but yes i haven't replaced the thermostat because i figured it was still working fine (after i boiled it in a pot of water), the water pump is brand new as of today, none of the piping is cracked or old and all of the clamps are nice and tight. The car starts up fine and there are no signs of head gasket damage. When i first got the car the heater core was bypassed with the hose in a loop and everything was working fine, so it started getting cold out and i wanted to get the heat going so i hooked it up and it was leaking in to the cabin all over the place, i replaced it with a brand new one and no more leaks....... but now its overheating every time after about 5 -10 mins of idling. The thermostat housing gets nice and hot along with all the rubber hoses in the coolant system. I read somewhere that there is a way to delete a bunch of the coolant lines and simplify the system do you think if that was done the lines are not routed correctly with a heater core in place? |
12-04-2013, 08:24 AM | #9 |
Leaky Injector
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Steam coming from the rad, The gauge stays in the normal range. yes ive tried to bleed the system im coming to the conclusion i have a blown head gasket
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12-04-2013, 08:53 AM | #10 |
Nissanaholic!
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If steam is coming from the radiator, it could be cracked. Are you losing coolant?
If the steam is coming from under the cap, it could be as simple as the cap needing to be replaced. If steam is coming from under the cap AND coolant is boiling out of the overflow, your thermostat is probably not opening... which would explain why only half (assuming the top half) of the radiator gets hot and you're not seeing any movement of fluid. In order for the water pump to move the coolant enough for you to see it happening, the thermostat needs to be open. 1. Try going to Vatozone and getting a new radiator cap. If it still overheats... 2. Try running it without a thermostat JUST LONG ENOUGH to see if an onobstructed system cures the overheating. If it works fine, you need a new thermo- which IMHO you should have replaced since you already had everything apart. DO NOT run it without a thermostat any longer than needed for troubleshooting! It's there to keep the system at the proper operating temperature... not to keep it 'cool' if you know what I mean.
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12-04-2013, 09:26 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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12-04-2013, 11:19 AM | #14 |
Leaky Injector
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[QUOTE=Mikester;5494167]If steam is coming from the radiator, it could be cracked. Are you losing coolant?
If the steam is coming from under the cap, it could be as simple as the cap needing to be replaced. If steam is coming from under the cap AND coolant is boiling out of the overflow, your thermostat is probably not opening... which would explain why only half (assuming the top half) of the radiator gets hot and you're not seeing any movement of fluid. In order for the water pump to move the coolant enough for you to see it happening, the thermostat needs to be open. Okay i have tried taking the thermostat out and it only made it take a little longer to overheat there are no blockages in the system the compression is good in all the cylinders. im not leaking anymore after the new water pump gasket even tho the oem pump still worked fine ....smh i have white smoke on start up |
12-04-2013, 11:21 AM | #15 |
Leaky Injector
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the fans are crap and take forever to come on but it never used to matter i would never steam out the rad?? i just gave it another attempt at bleeding the system with no luck, the rad is the only thing getting really freaking hot
Last edited by 914Slide; 12-04-2013 at 12:20 PM.. |
12-04-2013, 02:14 PM | #17 |
Nissanaholic!
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Change the cap. The system needs to be properly pressurized.
White smoke on startup could be as simple as the PCV valve gooped up & stuck open... or a sign of worn valve stem seals.
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12-04-2013, 02:30 PM | #18 |
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Temple, GA
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+75 on the radiator cap. I have had this happen to me .... once I fixed a problem with the cooling system I had and it could properly pressurize then the cap was letting off way too early and allowing the coolant to boil over.
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12-05-2013, 10:18 AM | #19 |
Leaky Injector
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okay thanks il try the cap too.I rigged the fans to come on right on start up and well they stay on till you turn it off, but i drove it for a good hour today and no signs of overheating although, now my turbo seams to be hotter then before
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