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02-28-2012, 11:59 PM | #91 | ||
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Edit: doesn't get much better than this: http://www.tcpglobal.com/AutoBodyDep...temNo=MMM+8571 |
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02-29-2012, 09:19 AM | #92 |
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so i am in the process of aquiring an 06-07 sti. want to do the same thing u did to this one. would you be able to do this without the car, just the gauge and vent? or is it nessecary to test fit during the process? if this is possible ill send you a pm for a quote after i actually pick one up. thanks in advance. love your work always impressive!!!
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02-29-2012, 04:01 PM | #93 | |
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Thanks Toby!
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03-01-2012, 06:26 PM | #95 |
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Have you ever used a surface mount universal pod to mount on the kick panels of a 240sx? Maybe for mounting a 5 1/4 or 4" mid for added midrange / sound stage? It would have to be a woofer that is not too deep, as I don't really want to relocate my ECU and other stuff housed behind the kick panels
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03-01-2012, 08:36 PM | #96 | |||
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03-04-2012, 12:36 PM | #101 |
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a while back i got a quote from you on making me a cluster, but since i have been out of work and decided to try it myself since i've got some fiberglass experience my self..
so i got most of it down the right way i think, but my gauges sit too far out to allow the clear plastic cover to go over the gauges.. lol what do you normally do when making these clusters? i gutted out the insides, used the original top half and fiberglassed it to be a blank canvas, smoothed it, and hole-sawed my gauge holes.. now i've seen you use auto meter gauges and get the glass on, I'm just wondering if i did something wrong here? |
03-04-2012, 01:11 PM | #102 |
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That's a good start man! Your process is definitely completely different than what I do. But as long as it turns out good then that's all that matters.
As for the gauges, I flush all of my gauges in. For one it looks better. Second of all, it allows the larger bezel'd gauges to fit under the glass. The Autometers have huge bezels. I use 3/4" material for my gauge plates then router the outside edge so it will sit perfectly between the front(black) and back(white) halves of the cluster. This then allows me to flush the gauges in to whatever depth I want, using a rabbet bit on a router, after I drill press the gauge holes. If you look real close you can tell the gauges are flushed in: This is a crappy cell pic of an S14 cluster I'm doing right now, but this will give you a good idea of how I do it. It is also getting Autometers. For reference the 2 larger gauges are sunk in 1/2". Last edited by Broadfield; 03-13-2012 at 11:51 PM.. |
03-04-2012, 01:43 PM | #103 |
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damn that makes a little more sense, now that i see the process.. is the final product the mdf board covered with the SEM texture coat or is that a sheet of abs plastic ?
i probably should have asked these questions before i started! ha I'm still undecided though it doesn't look bad without the glass so i may leave it off. i also picked up a few green turn signal indicators and a check engine light to throw in there its not completed yet thanks for the reply and sharing some of your tips |
03-04-2012, 02:20 PM | #105 | |
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Thanks! |
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03-13-2012, 10:52 AM | #106 |
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Toby, since searching isn't really giving me too many answers (and that my car is in storage right now so I can't really do it myself haha), can 52mm gauges fit in the din below the radio in an S13? If so, have you made a face plate and an angled setup for a din like you do for the center vent? I was trying to do something other than a pillar pod but at the same time not drill or remove anything from my dash since its mint.
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03-13-2012, 09:36 PM | #108 |
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Do you know of any good suede or suede-like material that can be used to cover an S13 dash? Looking for something that looks sleek and is proven against the elements (direct sunlight). Also want to follow up and use the same material for the door panels and headliner as well.
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03-14-2012, 12:06 AM | #109 | |||
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03-14-2012, 02:46 PM | #111 |
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Hey Toby, thanks for giving back to the community with this open forum. You are an immense asset to zilvia and I just wanted to thank you again.
I have a quick question: With all of the accessories I have running on my car (HID ballasts, e-fans, fan controller, etc.) my (+) terminal on the battery looks like a gang bang gone wrong. What power distribution block (or similar device) would you recommend I use to clean things up? I would like to move the battery to the trunk and use a safe, high quality distribution block that can handle 5+ inputs. Thanks! PS: Make sure you keep that aero bumper I sold you safe!
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03-14-2012, 04:59 PM | #112 |
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03-14-2012, 08:37 PM | #113 | |
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Car Audio and Video Equipment or Stinger Electronics | Products Just look through there and see if there is anything you need a price on or if you have any questions on any of the product. You might want to reread post # 105. |
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03-14-2012, 09:27 PM | #114 | |
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You won't give up your secret yet so all I have to go on is the sem texture spray...im willing to give it a try if you have used it in the past. I have read through just about everything you have posted...ever. Even on your blog people have asked about the texture, you saying nothing about it. I get it, if your good at something don't do it for free. I'll try a couple things to see what works. Looking through your albums, you don't get the exact lined Nissan oem texture you have the splotchy texture from like the sem spray. It blends well enough to where you can only tell close up...not good enough for me. I've seen a couple of vinyl repair places that can match the texture exactly and they do it by like cloning the texture from the existing piece some how?? I have found other places that sell the oem Nissan, acura, Lexus...etc patterned pads that you can use also. Thanks |
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03-14-2012, 11:15 PM | #115 | |
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As for the texture not matching the OEM, I don't want it to match. The dash board for example has the texture you are talking about. If I was repairing the dashboard then that is one thing. But I'm usually modifying/fabricating pieces that never had a texture to begin with. You always want a little contrast of some sort. So on the S13, all of the trim panels are smooth, whereas the dash is textured. So when I lay on my final finish, I either finish it in a smooth finish or a textured finish... it's up to the customer. On the S14, the trim panels have a texture on them(HVAC trim, radio trim and shifter trim). So since these three pieces come in contact with each other, I simply refinish all three pieces.... no matter if it's textured or smooth. If you tried to only do one and match it, then it's not going to match PERFECT. The color isn't going to be exact and/or the texture may not be exact, no matter what method is used. So by simply refinishing all three pieces you can rest assured they will all match each other.... which is what really matters. |
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03-15-2012, 09:34 PM | #117 |
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03-15-2012, 09:44 PM | #118 |
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03-15-2012, 10:07 PM | #119 |
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I've been comparing the s13 & s14 fsm's, and the only differences I can think of are the ways that the motors control the temperature, and the way the air comes out the vents.
Because all the sensors are external from the main wiring harness. I.e. in cabin temp sensor, sun load sensor, ambient outside temp sensor...etc. the only thing that is really hardwired to the harness is the fan speed, air temperature motor, button lighting, acc, constant 12v, ground, defrost...maybe more. All this is recently learned so it might not be accurate. |
03-15-2012, 11:51 PM | #120 | |
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You do realize I gave up my secret a couple posts back.... even free of charge |
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