*Ask Broadfield*
 

I spend a LOT of time answering the same questions over and over again... and some of these answers are not short. I simply don't have the time to constantly answer the same questions. I also like helping others out and encourage them to ask questions. So that's what this thread is for. If you have questions about any product I sell, any product I fabricate, my build, my life or what I think of this-or-that, then this is the place. Feel free to ask anything, but I obviously reserve the right to not answer if it's too personal or just plain weird. My goal is to be able to re-route users back to this thread if they ask me a previously answered question in another thread, PM etc. I can just link to the particular post # that has the answer.... done! We can also talk about fabrication techniques and whatnot. Keep in mind, if you have a specific question about a product that I currently have in a vendor for sale thread, then obviously feel free to ask the question in the appropriate thread. Lets do this!

What would be your sub 100k (price range) dream car to modify?

To keep this thread alive and not locked due to being a post whore thread. Lets keep it to his area's of expertise.

Any Random or Off-Topic questions will be deleted. If you aren't asking a question don't post unless you are Broadfield. Abuse will result in punishment.

Back to the thread:
Have you used any of the free-air subs that are designed to be used in the rear deck? Like the Kicker 10CVT654 for example.

That's a really good question because it's actually very tough for me to answer. I'm the type of guy that would rather buy a $10k car and put $90k into it. That way I'm not driving some stock $100k car that every doctor, rich guy owns. But if I had the loot to buy a $100k car AND modify it, then I'm gonna go with a slightly used Porsche 997 911 Turbo.

Yes, especially back in the very early 90's. They will never perform as well as a subwoofer in a conventional enclosure setup, but there are obviously several advantages. The big one is no enclosure taking up space... and along with that the price of said enclosure. If you want a free-air sub I would recommend either FI or maybe some of the JL Audio free-air marine subs. The FI stuff is really good for a very reasonable amount of money. No matter which sub is chosen it's very important to make the mounting area is as rigid as possible. Basically you would be making a baffle out of 3/4" MDF and then screwed to the underside of the rear deck if possible. The subs would then mount to the underside of the MDF. You would also want to sound deaden the top of the rear deck and underside before you screw the MDF on. Then use as much power as the sub(s) will handle.

where did you acquire the automotive knowledge you possess?

What sound system set up do you suggest in the $300-500 price range?

Do you believe that the weight of a properly installed sound system (trunk-mounted subwoofer included) would make any noticeable difference in the performance of a road car?

What are the possibilities to cut down on electric noise/motor noise through audio, for example a CarPC set-up. When the PC is OFF there is high frequencies coming from the speakers in relation to the amount of RPMs the motor is at.

My father always taught me to do everything myself. If I didn't know how to do something I would simply teach myself. I believe people are just naturally good at things. For me it's anything to do with cars.... I'm also a pretty good artist. I have won many awards for various pieces of art in my earlier years. I have three bachelors degrees in physics, mathematics and applied computer science. However, I rarely use those in my line of work. So when it comes down to it, I believe I'm naturally good at what I do. On the flip side I'm a horrible cook.

I need to know what all you want: head unit, speakers, amplifier, subwoofer?

Absolutely not.... track car yes.

Since I've heard you have alarm knowledge.

A Circuit City installed alarm (Python I believe).

Worked fine, then 5speed swap happened. Ever since the doors lock themselves when the car is turned off, as well as locking back 1 second after you hit the unlock button on the key fob.

Would assume it was a wire going to the AT shifter or something, but I suck at wiring/electronics.

You built a 240sx in the "post your interior thread" I have always wondered about the popup speedometer you had on there. have you ever come across one of the windshield units?

I have seen you "refinish" oem hard plastic interior pieces like door handles and stuff. Do you use some kind of polish for that? Mine are beat up and don't look nice at all anymore.

How about polishing the oem plastic cover for the gauge clusters?

Do you perform these tasks for money?

Do you think you can post some pictures of your notched RLCA setup to fit your 11j VSKFs on stock body? And what would be a good sound system setup (4 speakers, a sub and amplifier) for under 300?

What type of flat/stain black paint do you use to finish interior pieces? I believe it's made by 3M?

In my experience, which is a lot at this point, CarPC's usually have poor ground isolation. So I'm not surprised if you are having issues. Any decent car audio component will have good ground isolation properties. Which if installed correctly will lead to a noise free listening experience. In the case of the CarPC, the engineers didn't put as much focus on sound quality and noise rejection as much as what Alpine engineers would. So some simple questions first:

• Did you run your RCA's for the amplifier down the opposite side of the vehicle from the power wire?
• Where is your ground for the CarPC and the amplifier?
• If you unplug the RCA's from the amplifier do you still have the noise?

Get back to me and we'll go from there.

It has nothing to do with the transmission. I don't know what a 5-speed swap involves, but something got messed up, a wire pinched etc.

Do the doors lock correctly when you hit the lock button on the Python?

The unit I used was the Defi-Link VSD-X. Which was discontinued in 2010. The unit that displays on the windshield is the Defi-Link Display VSD Concept. Which was discontinued in 2007. You can find both of them on Ebay from time-to-time.

As for any hard plastic pieces, I simply clean them up and paint them with the SEM Color Coat product. I use either Landau Black or Satin Black. The charge would depend on what all you want done.

Polishing the cluster glass is a lot more work. I wet sand it inside and out with 1200 grit, then 1500 and finally 2000. I then polish both sides with an air polisher with four different stages of Pinnacle product... #4, #3, #2 and finishing with #1. I charge $50 to polish the glass.

The next time I have the wheel(s) off I will try to remember to snap a couple pics.

I use the SEM Color Coat line... mainly Satin Black and Landau Black. They are very close to each other... the Landau Black is a tad bit richer.

I PM'd you this yesterday but I'll post it here so there won't be a repeat question...

I was browsing through the interior thread and noticed a digital fuel gauge you did for somebody...

http://tehl33tsite.com/240sxdd/help/digifuel.jpg

My first question to you is, where can I find a gauge like this that will display fuel in either % remaining or gallons remaining? I tried looking online and can't really find anything.

Question #2. I plan on locating it here...

http://tehl33tsite.com/240sxdd/help/fuelloc.jpg

But I'm not sure if there is enough space on the top region to place a circular gauge since I only want to expose the digital number through that section in form of a rectangle.

Any tips or tricks to go about this little project would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Will i one day be as great as you?

I officially like the Autometer one because it's the only one that I have seen that is fully programmable to match whatever sending unit you are using:

Auto Meter

http://www.autometer.com/img/products/6310_d.jpg

I like to mount them behind smoked plexi. I also disassemble the gauge and paint the inside all black. Otherwise you may see some of the white text though the plexi.

I have done several setups with various techniques:

This first setup is the easiest:


http://images54.fotki.com/v627/photo...MG_6246-vi.jpg

http://images57.fotki.com/v256/photo...MG_6308-vi.jpg

http://images108.fotki.com/v205/phot...MG_6268-vi.jpg

This method is much more difficult because I first had to fill in the spot where the OEM switch was:

Build pics here:

Josh's S13 Cluster, HUD, Center Vent and Cluster Shroud album | Broadfield | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy.

http://images41.fotki.com/v9/photos/...MG_4084-vi.jpg

http://images108.fotki.com/v191/phot...MG_4091-vi.jpg

http://images50.fotki.com/v1528/phot...MG_4068-vi.jpg

Then an AEM air/fuel gauge I did in an STi:

Build pics here:

Mike Defalco's Vent Gauge STi album | Broadfield | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy.

http://images59.fotki.com/v683/photo...MG_6004-vi.jpg

http://images59.fotki.com/v683/photo...MG_6013-vi.jpg

http://images54.fotki.com/v627/photo...MG_6017-vi.jpg



That's entirely up to you.... but good luck:D

I'm running two amps, one for the front speakers and one for the subs. These two sets of RCA's go from in my glove box to underneath the center console and into the trunk. My battery is in the trunk, but the main power wire runs through the firewall then along the passenger side of the chassis, to the trunk.

The CarPC itself is a "Net-top" unit. Which for example here's a link to one just for reference.

ViewSonic - VOT132 - 2 GB RAM - 1.6 GHz

The unit I do not have a separate ground on, only ground I could think of is the ground that runs through the power adapter. [Looks like a laptop adapter] Which I have running to a cigarette lighter power source mounted under the dash.

The RCA's I have not attempted to unplug and see. I did run a switch in-between the remote signal wire of the amps so I can turn them off when the PC is off. That was the only thing I could think of to do to get rid of the noise while the PC is off. Would that kind of be my only route to go?

Extremely helpful, thank you Toby the super-genius.

More questions...

What products are you using the fill in the stock bezel? And where can I buy smoked plexiglass?

It sounds like it's just an issue with the CarPC. So since you can't change it, you can simply try some RCA noise filters. The downfall of these are that they remove low frequencies. However, since you are running subs and I assume the noise is only coming out of the front speakers, then you will be fine. Try this:

PAC SNI-1 - Ground loop isolator

Very good question, because this stuff is the bees knees! I use two brands:

• 3M Semi Rigid Plastic Repair
• Norton Speed Grip

For the Norton I use the 1 minute and the 5 minute depending on how much working time I need with the product. You will need a special applicator gun that isn't cheap. However, I also used this gun when I did the seam sealer in my engine bay... so it can be used for the dispensing of various types of products. Pictured here if you need the part # of the gun:

http://images116.fotki.com/v617/phot...MG_5837-vi.jpg

I actually bought the smoked plexi from Menards... otherwise if your local super hardware store doesn't have it, you can buy it online.

Yes, noise only to the fronts. I'll be checking this out! Thank you.

Mother of god I think I'm in thread heaven. Big thanks again. I'm starting a huge interior project on my car this summer and I've got lots of ideas already. I'll most likely be needing your services for a center vent gauge pod in a couple months. :kiss:

Speakers, amp, sub.

I bought a head unit from you but debating to get another one with Bluetooth.

Currently have new infinity kappas in front. But willing to buy new set up.

Is there a better way to add power and ground connections for accessory's such as gauges and stuff rather than tapping into the stock harness's?

For example I have my gauge illumination power tapped into the stock headunit harness for power.


Also, I have an electric rad fan connected to a rocker switch in my cabin. When I turn on the fan I have a constant draw of about 50-100 rpms at idle. Is there a proper way to keep it from doing this.

thanks for the thread toby!

do you know what i can use to remove rubberized undercoating?
paint stripper isnt working well enough and heating it up isn't doing much help either

No problem!

Sounds good man, just get in touch with me.

Hybrid Mirius series speakers, ARC Audio XDi amplifier and probable a JL Audio sub. That would be in the "right under" $500 range for some VERY nice stuff. Are you going to be running front and rear speakers or just the fronts?

To get the most current capability you can tap into the heavy gauge wires at the ignition harness. Obviously there is constant power, ignition power and accessory power all there in one location. This way you don't have to worry about overloading a circuit and popping a fuse. But gauges and the like draw VERY little power, so just tapping into the radio wiring is fine. If you tap into the ignition harness make sure every piece of equipment you add is fused.

It's not uncommon that high output electric fans cause the idle to drop. However, the idle should recover shortly after the initial drop. Does it? If not, then some of the common issues are a slight vacuum leak or a weak alternator.

Aircraft stripper.... assuming you don't mind going down to bare metal underneath!?!

do u have any parts left over from you sr build, or those calipers i asked about!

I'm not sure what calipers you are talking about?

I have this stuff brand new:

#/f/sale-items/42634...em-nissan.html

I have two S15 6-speed transmissions

I have a brand new Chargespeed S13 coupe kit minus the front 20mm fenders that I acquired from a friend:

• Front bumper
• Rear bumper
• Sideskirts
• 50 rear overs

Nate's ChargeSpeed Aero album | Broadfield | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy.

hey broadfield.
i love your work and how all your interior parts are so clean~
is there a thread or do you have any kind of process to restore the plastic interior pieces?

for example, i have a s13 and the black plastic pieces are looking old and worn out and have been thinking about repainting them and what not but not sure where to start. any suggestions or recommendations for process and/or products?