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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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07-26-2010, 08:49 PM | #1 |
Zilvia Junkie
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s13 redtop sr20det few problems
car:
91 s13 Fastback redtop sr20det rebuilt with about 10k miles put on. setup parts that maybe necessary to know (if any other setups im using need to be known just let me know and ill post it): rebuilt redtop sr20det apexi metal head gasket internals are set back to stock settings walboro 255 stock injectors hks wastegate stock maf stock fuel filter stock oil pan apexi fart can. 3'' exhaust straight pipe all the way to exhaust, no Cat. kaaz 2 way lsd problems: 1. car will not turn over and start when i am turning key in ignition. i can hear it cranking but no start unless i step my foot on the gas. after i get it running, it makes a tick noise (but its not rod knock, i would know if it was). And idle jumps up to like about 1200-1250ish and stays there for a like 2 or so mins. Im thinking maybe low oil pressure for that ticking? Or maybe its just the timing chain... but the ticking does go away after maybe 2-3 mins of letting the car run and idle so wouldnt that be oil pressure? After it has settled down, the idle drops back to about 1000. On my car not starting properly... I havent checked the spark plugs yet but maybe im not getting enough spark to start car? Maybe my starter or alternator is crapping out on me : / ... Maybe also my Fuel Injectors are dirty or getting some clogging? But if my car drives like a regular car once i get the motor to start so would Fuel Injectors be the issue? 2. When driving, car boosts perfectly fine, no bogging. She go like a Champ. But when i put it into neutral to come for a rolling stop (like if im in 4th or any other gear, then i shift to neutral, the car will drop to like 500 idle, sometimes even lower, but it will fix itself). most of the time it drops down to the low idle but it will fire itself back up, but just yesterday my car finally actually stalled from dropping down too low and the idle did not fix itself after dropping to 500ish . It actually stalled on me a few times when i hit stop lights (which is annoying as this is my daily and i want to fix this asap) First things i was thinking was got to be a shitty maf cause my last maf on one of my old coupe had a junk maf and it would make it bog like a mother fawk...but then im thinkin, if my maf is really that bad, wouldnt my car always bog and stuff and cant hold idle even when i first start the car? Well I checked the maf connection cause maybe it got shuck loose but my connections are all good. I dont want to rule out that my maf is fine cause it maybe could be goin bad. Im planning on checking it wit one of my friends mafs to see if any improvements. Another thing i was thinking was maybe boost leak or some vaccum leak of some sort. One of my hot pipe silicone connectors has like this minor lil "scrap" but it doesnt look like its seriously deep enough to be a cause of any leak source but it COULD be. I googled and read about BOV not recirculating which could cause that idle to stall while at stops or something. Im running a greddy bov on my cold pipe. I checked it and it seems good, but because i am running a vented hood, rain water does get in and i have my BOV on my cold pipe (you can see water can get onto the cold pipe area) and im seeing some minor rust around the area of where my bov is welded onto the cold pipe, but not enough rust to where theres like a hole. My bov is still very well welded and secure on the cold pipe, but is this a serious issue i should look into and fix it (well anything with rust im sure i should but is it like priority number 1 i should try get done asap?) Even the smallest rust hole on that bov connection area...could that lead to a boost leak? or no? 3. When i do drive, when i down shift to like neutral or maybe to a lower gear, i sometimes (not very often, rarely happens once in a while) get a loud Bang/Pop noise come out of my Fart Can Exhaust. What the hell does that mean ... it kinda worry me, but freaks out the other drivers on the road more... 4. This one isnt as serious as the other ones. When i make turns my car feels like my tires are rubbing something. Like you can feel the car jerking as its being hit by something to make it that feeling I have done a 5lug conversion on my s13 fastback. Im running s14 5lug SE rims with 205/50/16 tires on all 4 rims. But i checked the tire clearance and it clears the fenders so its not rubbing my fenders. Im thinking my inner part of my tire is hitting my suspensions or something in that area (as i have lowered my car, but its not super slammed to the earth floor) Would running some spacers fix that issue? Cause its strange when i first start the car and drive it and make any sort of turns, i am not getting any rubbing. Its only after i drive it for maybe 3-5 mins that it begins to get that feeling... Its not my diff being low on diff fluid is it... if it is i feel real stupid for not checkin there ... well any help would do as i want to try cutting down to exactly what im looking for and not fish in the dark and find out im tinkering with the wrong area. I plan on getting a professional tune on my car later on too, as i think i might be burning a lil rich. I can smell fuel from my exhaust...but thats not too uncommon though for exhaust that is using just a straight pipe to muffler? Last edited by Q.Smooth127; 07-28-2010 at 06:43 AM.. |
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07-28-2010, 09:55 AM | #3 |
Leaky Injector
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To fix your stall issue just adjust your idle up some, mine does it and if you adjust it up a little more its just fine. Seems like your just running rich, check for boost leaks, then you need a tune before you assume parts are bad... been there and done that. As for tires/spacers and such its not my thing considering I'm not crazy with those settings.....the engines my thang lol. As for the way the car feels that's just you 2 way lsd, it now locks under acceleration and deceleration.
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07-29-2010, 04:25 AM | #4 |
Zilvia Junkie
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thanks for inputs.
Any others ? Well the car does idle fine when i get the motor to turn on, its only when i clutch in and go neutral after i have been in gear and driving does it drop down to like 500 and then it shoots back up. So i not sure if adjusting the idle screw thing gonna fix it, but ill just try em anyway just to see if any changes. *note: i did try reving my engine while on neutral, just to hear if i am getting any funny engine noises and i knowtice i can hear my car doin some minor stumbling after i let go of each reving. I am not looking at my rpm when im reving the car outside but i can tell the rpm is prolly droppin to that 500 range and then finding its way back up to regular idle and goes back to reg idle really fast. Is that a sign of maybe some boost leak somewhere? Sucky thing is time is a bitch for me haha, im running on a tight work schedule this month so i have like no free time to try to trouble shoot :*( *praying for more free time so i can get to doing this. Cause im thinkin my starting problem is prolly bad spark plug... |
07-30-2010, 05:48 PM | #5 |
Zilvia Junkie
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the loud bang///pop noises my exhaust makes during those rare few times, is that a sign maybe my knock sensor is going bad?
but speaking of knock sensor, one my friends said my knock sensor or the wiring is loose on it , which could be why im getting that rpm drop to 500 when i shift from gear to neutral. |
08-09-2010, 02:11 AM | #6 |
Zilvia Junkie
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rechecked for boost//vaccum leaks.
i think my culprit is a bad intercooler coupler (the thing is torn ...) and a hotpipe coupler for my rpm dip problem. Gonna be getting some new couplers and putting em on to see if that fixes the problem. To the bad starting problem: i checked my fuel injectors, they seem to run and give fuel, so they should be good, which must be only my spark plugs is left to be the culprit (hopefully) I havent had time to get a voltmeter to check the spark plugs to see if weak spark, but i think it be a good idea to be replacing my spark plugs anyway cause those are starting to get kinda old. But now im thinking they just are the spark plugs is the problem because the car finally did not turn over and turn on even when i gave it gas while the bugga was cranking...i think no more spark Is there any good brands out there that any fellow zilvia net members would recommend? What was the gap for spark plugs on SR's again? Thanks |
08-09-2010, 07:55 PM | #7 |
Zilvia Junkie
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pulled the spark plugs today. Plugs were foul'd. Changing to new BKR6E. I was thinking maybe i should use BKR7E but i already bought the BKR6E so i figure they should be fine for what my engine setup is anyway...and i will use em to test to see if my plugs get foul'd up again instead of buyin another BKR7Es and waste them...
BUT there is like black oil around the threading? But that might just be old oil build up from having junk plugs in and running wit them... Though i am worried of that black oil (wasnt soaking dripping, it kinda look lil dry but still just a lil moist. ) i was told bad piston ring means black oil on the spark plugs -_- ... i praying that is not my case. What are the other reasons to have a little oil on the plugs. Bad piston ring = black oil. Bad valve cover gasket with the o-rings should be the other one am i right? but there is no visible oil leaking around that area ... Gonna check right now to see if my alternator is crapped out cause my battery suddenly died from not running the car for 2 days... so will be back with updates shortly |
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