Mister.E

When you run a single top mount on the 1JZ, where do you route the IACV? do you just run a hose across and plunge it into the intake piping?

RaNMaN

yup, that's right. i guess they can plug into each other on the end cap but don't exactly sit flush which is why the heater hose piece was in the middle. it is pretty awesome that it worked so well but at the same time i like to do things once and do them the right way and this was definitely not the right way.

thanks for that. i think i've seen 16000ppm somewhere as well. i want to check out some reviews of the GPS speed sensors before buying one. i looked it up and would be ok with just using the dakota digital box, and that way the signal won't drop on me or do anything weird for any reason. i also want to enable anti-lag launch control on the Haltech and make it turn off above a certain speed so i'll have to account for the speed signal reaching the ecu as well. i'll do some more research and report back.

RaNMaN

i would just put one of these small k&n filters on it: 62-1360 - K&N Crankcase Vent Filters, Vent Air Filter direct from K&N



part number is 62-1360 but i wouldn't buy it direct from k&n, it's available for less elsewhere.

if it really bothers you to do that then have a fitting welded onto you intake pipe (after the air filter) and run a hose over to it.

i run the air filter and mine doesn't leak but i did clean the shit out of it when i was rebuilding my motor.

Mister.E

If i was just to pop one of those little filters on there, how is the car gonna act since i will be running a stock ECU? i thought you basically HAVE to have it hooked up to the intake piping.

ATLspeed

My IACV stopped working and my car runs fine minus the cold startup process. I have to hold the throttle open until it idles on its own. Having Brian Crower 264 undailed cams don't help along with 700-/+ idle (stock is 650+/-).

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93 s13 Vert - 2jz/cd009 -- parted/sold
95 Supra Turbo

RaNMaN

is your motor MAF monitored or MAP?

if it is MAP then you can just plug the hole on the intake piping and run one of these air filters.

JohanM

test fitted the engine and radiator, moved the rad location forward so i have a clearance of 4.5" and the oil pan sits right with the xmember

PG BOOSTED

Looks clean dude.

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-Alex Bailey /18/ Orlando, FL / ⭐Founder of Straight Six Gang⭐

turbo-2ns

^Will this be a drift car

JohanM

Yeah that's the plan

Thanks man!! Trying my best to keep it clean and simple

kalypso123

Keep us posted

JohanM

I will, too lazy right now to make a build thread but ill get around to it. One day lol

Mister.E

MAP. thanks man, i didnt even think of that. i've always been so accustomed to having a damn MAF sensor, LOL.

mrpeanut

what single manifold works well in the S-chassis and doesnt brake the bank?? looking at putting on a gt3582r or something along those lines.

nc51189

will the MK IV computer hook up to the jdm Aristo or Chaser harness or are the pin outs diff...or will it affect the maf/airflow sensor...idk need help

2stepGoesPowPow

....... .

2muchboost

Not to sway you away from Quick Silver but on SF many many people have successfully used Ebay manifolds. Sometimes it takes a little bit of porting or grinding and at times it takes a few welds to reinforce. I would call M&S Performance and talk to Mikey. He usually has a few of the good Ebay mani's laying around and the guy basically sells them at Ebay price but it avoids the headache of having to figure out which one is the good one. These are MUCH cheaper than the Quicksilver ones and work well.

Mr. Peanut....are you looking for Log or Tubular style manifolds? If you go log you can go with Treadstone (I have that one) or SPA. I had my Treadstone ported and coated by SP...I can try and post pix if you would like.

If your looking for Tubular again check out Ebay. It will all really depend on what kind of power goals and powerband you want.

aled

I will be deleting the IAC-V on my 1JZ, but I have an adapted AEM EMS as my ECU and not the stock unit. I will also be deleting the PCV valve and welding -10 AN bungs into the valve covers and running them directly to a catch-can.

Any tuning guru's know if I need to make any tuning map adjustments once this is done? I am trying my crack at the installation of an aftermarket 1JZ intake manifold.

The engine is on MAP sensor. I will also be adding an AIT sensor in conjunction with my AEM boost solenoid and wideband.

91ka24

Lookin good man!!! I thought I was the only one on here drifting a 2j s chassis LOL

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BiG MiKE86

Nope ill be doing the same

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RaNMaN

you won't need to make any major changes to the map, the only area it would have any noticeable affect on would be at idle and even that would be very minimal. you should be fine keeping the rest of your map the same.

if you are going to remove the iacv then you might want to open the throttle plate using the adjustment screw just a little bit in order to have the car idle better when cold. the trade-off of doing this is that it might idle a little bit high when warm.

or you could not adjust anything but then you might have to hold the throttle down just a little bit when its cold. you'll need to hold it open just a smidge for about 30-60 seconds until it is warm enough to hold at idle on its own.

really either way is fine, a good tuner can get it to work well without the iacv when warm or cold.

2stepGoesPowPow

Idk, maybe I will go with eBay coming from an SR20 Im used to all cheap manifolds cracking.. But M&S is actually local for me.

Mister.E

Instead of putting a filter on the IACV can you just block it off with a plate? or does it need to be able to breathe?

2muchboost

2STEP...Doesnt seem to be the case for the 2J manifolds for some reason. Yeah M&S is now over in Deer Park so the commute shouldnt be too bad. Check out his new shop and wait till you get there and see the beasts he is working on...OMG.

turbo-2ns

it has to be able to suck in air so blocking it off would not work, unless you wanted to delete it, bht than as stated above it woll have cold statyband idle problems till its warm

2stepGoesPowPow

Word ill probably hit them up then instead of the over 1,000$ I was planning on spending for a quicksilver manifold ill be saving a bunch of money I just hope it doesn't crack lol. & yeah I'm friends w M&S on Facebook and seen pictures it's insane whole freakin shop packed out with supras

RaNMaN

personally i run the $350 OBX manifold and it has served me well. it has a lifetime warranty so if it breaks or cracks i'll just inquire with OBX about getting a new one. i did chop off the wastegate flange and welded on the one that came with my 44mm tial.

but what 2muchboost is saying is correct. for some strange reason 2jz ebay manifolds seem to hold up really well.

2stepGoesPowPow

Very interesting, i dont get how with SR's cheap manifolds always crack but with 2j's i guess not so much?, i just looked at the obx manifold i might do the same, im gunna contact M&S and ask about the manifolds there selling. just not sure which wastegate im gunna use 38mm vs 44mm im gunna be running a 6776 stock motor just 800cc injectors w/ an AEM EMS, i want to start out with around 500hp

BoostedVR4

I picked up the Drewgo manifold from Freed, that and a GT42 was in his car, everything fit fine.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/y9xsv7cpj8...204_140530.jpg

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2muchboost

Obx for $300 here

OBX TURBO MANIFOLD HEADER 93-98 SUPRA 2JZ 2JZ-GTE T4

Go with the 44mm wastegate...you won't be sorry.